Author Topic: 22RE Front Main Seal (Read 22585 times)

Weldo · « **on:** Mar 15, 2005, 05:13:12 PM »

I've had an oil leak for a long time on my truck, even since before I had the truck. The front of my engine is coated in a layer of oil, and every 2 or 3 weeks I add a quart. Its a pain, and easy to forget about, too (almost ran it dry once!

). It looks like its coming from the front of the motor, someone suggested it was the front main seal. So, how would this project be for a beginner. I'm mechanically competent, but I've never really torn into my 22RE yet (no time like the present). Is this a tough job? I hear I have to remove the valve cover, timing cover, radiator, drop front of oil pan, and even lower hte front differential. Sounds like a lot, but I hear the ol' 22RE is a pretty simple and basic motor, easy to work on. I thought it would be a good idea to hit the motor with degreaser or blast it at the quarter car wash to clean it wait a few days or something and see where the leak originates, but the weather is a bit cold for that yet. Opinions and/or suggestions?

BLUCRUZ · « **Reply #1 on:** Mar 15, 2005, 08:36:01 PM »

Front is easy, Just pull the crank pulley and then the oil pump off the front of the timing cover. The seal is on the oil pump so no need to take all that other crap off. If I remember right

you need to drain the radiator too because one of the oil pump bolts passes through a water jacket, I can't remember though so don't hold me to it

gferris5 · « **Reply #2 on:** Mar 15, 2005, 09:38:08 PM »

Yeah-
It isn't a super hard job, just gotta get stuff out of the way to make it happen. could possibly be more difficult with IFS if you are so equpped

Just kidding

gonzo · « **Reply #3 on:** Mar 16, 2005, 06:51:14 AM »

It's been a while since I have done this but, I removed the belts (of course), the fan (I believe for better access to oil pump). The toughest part was getting the crank bolt out. I used a breaker bar with cheater (no help), I used the belts as a strap wrench, while they were still installed in position (damaged belt). I finally use a 2 x 4, 2 ft breaker bar, and my starter. I really don't recommend this method, because of all the possible problems, but I was getting desperate. I even tried an impact and it was no help (probably because my air compressor didn't put out enough air)
One thing to remember during assembly is to be sure that the "O" ring, that goes on the oil pump front cover, is positioned correctly. Not pinched.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #4 on:** Mar 16, 2005, 08:01:27 AM »

it is very common to be the front main seal in the oil pump but make sure your oil pump is secure and not seaping from the o ring , it can also be the o ring on the dist shaft, or the seal between the head and timing cover, clean and inspect to see exactly where its coming from

TOYJOETA · « **Reply #5 on:** Mar 16, 2005, 09:51:30 AM »

Quote from: 79Coyotefrg on Mar 16, 2005, 08:01:27 AM

it is very common to be the front main seal in the oil pump but make sure your oil pump is secure and not seaping from the o ring , it can also be the o ring on the dist shaft, or the seal between the head and timing cover, clean and inspect to see exactly where its coming from

Ya make sure it is that, When I did my head gasket and timing chain I ef'ed up the part of the head gasket that seals tha top of the timing cover, so now I have a really bad leak there bu I don't want to tear it all back apart until I rebuild the engine. But I would clean off the engine really good with oven cleaner at the car wash and then check it out a day later or so to make sure, but if it is the front seal it really isn't that bad. If you remove all the stuff that is in the way, like the rad, fan and belts, you can do it. and make sure to put some oil or some kind of lube on it so it doesn't fail again.

Weldo · « **Reply #6 on:** Mar 16, 2005, 04:51:35 PM »

OK, I guess I'll hit up the car wash soon. Like you fellas said, it's better to be sure where it's leaking from than just assuming. You know what happens when you assume... You make an

out of u and me.

Duffil · « **Reply #7 on:** Mar 16, 2005, 08:16:07 PM »

its not that bad...check the balancer when its off. The part that goes through the seal normally develops a groove, and if you don't sleeve it, it usually leaks rather soon after changing the seal. The NAPA part number is 600-2501. they arent that expensive, and you can just drive it on with a 2x4 and a hammer.

Uncle Jesse · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 16, 2005, 10:33:38 PM »

Definitley check to make sure the crank pulley sealing surface is ok. If it is damaged sleeve it like already said. If you are down there for the crank seal, I think it would be a wise idea to change the kidney o ring as well. While you've got the crank pulleys off clean them up real good and paint the timing mark. You'll thank yourself later.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 17, 2005, 08:30:21 AM »

Quote from: Duffil on Mar 16, 2005, 08:16:07 PM

its not that bad...check the balancer when its off.
and you can just drive it on with a 2x4 and a hammer.

um its NOT a balancer, its just a solid metal pully, and dont drive that thing on with a 2x4 heat it with a dropcord light or hotplate then it will slip on easily, when it cools it will be nice tight and straight

kyle_22r · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 17, 2005, 11:45:52 AM »

mine works fine after driving it on with a block of wood. it's the way i do it at work and we don't have problems with that. just make sure you don't bend the sucker.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 17, 2005, 05:26:51 PM »

yea but kyle that little sucker is about as solid as two pieces of aluminum foil, 100 watt bulb in a drop cord about 1 minute slips right on,

use a rag or glove

Weldo · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 17, 2005, 06:27:59 PM »

Quote from: 79Coyotefrg on Mar 17, 2005, 05:26:51 PM

yea but kyle that little sucker is about as solid as two pieces of aluminum foil, 100 watt bulb in a drop cord about 1 minute slips right on, use a rag or glove

Is that the crank pulley we're talkin about here? And when you mean re-sleeve it, there must be a sleeve that is on or in the pulley that may need to be replaced, depending on condition? is that right? I guess I'll see when I remove it, but I wanna be sure I don't damage anything, ya know?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 17, 2005, 06:30:06 PM »

its a small very thin sleeve that slides over the inner part of the crank pulley

think of it as a crankpully condom

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 17, 2005, 06:31:30 PM »

you wont need one if its not grooved

Weldo · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 17, 2005, 06:45:05 PM »

oh, OK.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 17, 2005, 07:00:30 PM »

see i knew that would get you on the right track

Jase · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 18, 2005, 07:49:29 AM »

If it is the main seal I have gotten it off without removing the rad, break the bolt loose before removing any belts then slide it off just put a small piece of plywood in front of the rad. so if it slides off you done run the pully into it. (85 4 runner)

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 05:56:52 PM »

i never pull anything more than belts to replace a front seal, well other than the crank pully, duh

Prismo · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 06:02:28 PM »

Actually I believe it is actually a balancer/dampner because of the hard rubber layer that is present between the pulley & the sleeve.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #20 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 06:20:25 PM »

Quote from: Prismo on Mar 19, 2005, 06:02:28 PM

Actually I believe it is actually a balancer/dampner because of the hard rubber layer that is present between the pulley & the sleeve.

have you looked at one lately??? all i have ever seen on the fron of a 20-22R is a solid steel mass, no rubber , no fluid . a chevy yes, a toy ,at least the 2?R no

Duffil · « **Reply #21 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 06:33:55 PM »

actually, yes, there is a rubber piece...it is a balancer.

Weldo · « **Reply #22 on:** Mar 19, 2005, 06:34:16 PM »

So, I just gotta remove belts to get the seal out? It'd be great to not have to remove the radiator, oil pan and all that stuff.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #23 on:** Mar 20, 2005, 04:27:41 PM »

Quote from: Duffil on Mar 19, 2005, 06:33:55 PM

actually, yes, there is a rubber piece...it is a balancer.

ok can you post a pic ?? and what year engine do you guys have, my experience is limited to the early (84 and older) blocks and they have no rubber anywhere on the front pulley

TOYJOETA · « **Reply #24 on:** Mar 20, 2005, 04:56:16 PM »

My 22REC doesn't have any rubber on the pulley either.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #25 on:** Mar 20, 2005, 05:08:15 PM »

Quote from: toyjoeta on Mar 20, 2005, 04:56:16 PM

My 22REC doesn't have any rubber on the pulley either.

thank you toyjoeta

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #26 on:** Mar 20, 2005, 05:13:48 PM »

Quote from: Weldo on Mar 19, 2005, 06:34:16 PM

So, I just gotta remove belts to get the seal out? It'd be great to not have to remove the radiator, oil pan and all that stuff.

yea just remove the crank pulley and remove the seal from the front of the oil pump

Uncle Jesse · « **Reply #27 on:** Mar 20, 2005, 06:19:16 PM »

I wouldn't imagine there would be a need for a balancer on a four cylinder inline engine. Both my 89 and 90's have 100% steel bolt together pulleys. Now, the v6 would be a different matter.

Weldo · « **Reply #28 on:** Apr 17, 2005, 03:27:34 PM »

Would I need a pulley puller to get the crank pulley off? Also, I need to degrease the motor, any suggestions on not making a huge mess? Can I just spray it down in the street or will that

stick around for weeks after I'm done?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #29 on:** Apr 17, 2005, 03:43:40 PM »

no need for a puller, just get that pesky bolt off and it will come off fairly easy, use some sortof foaming degreaser that eats the nasty stuff then wash away with a hose, if you have one of those city enviro cops i would do this at a car wash , i always just spray a bad cruddy engine with GUNK enginefoam, the after its set overnight hose it off, clean up with somecarb cleaner

Weldo [OP]

Weldo [OP]

Weldo [OP]

Weldo [OP]

Weldo [OP]

Related Topics