Author Topic: New slider build questions  (Read 1531 times)

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Volcom

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New slider build questions
« on: Mar 22, 2012, 02:48:57 PM »
First off, my Marlin sliders have been through hell & back over the last 6 years.  They are 1.75" .120 wall HREW round tubing.  They have 3/16" thick scab plates welded to the frame with small triangle gussets welded to the tops of the slider legs.  I've bent the sliders up to the point the doors don't like to open or close.  I need to build a new set that are beefier.  The frame is slightly wrinkled around the scab plate area.

I'm thinking of 1/4" 2"x2" square for the slider legs and the main body of the slider.  I was going to bend up some new round 1.75" tubing and weld to to the outside of the main body tube.  They will be angled up like the current slider.

Here's the current bent up slider




Question 1 - Are square tube slider legs stronger if they are rotated 45 degrees?  The diagram shows the slider legs in red. 

Question 2 - I know it's easier to weld the scab plates if they are rotated 45 degrees.  What about keeping them vertical and added a piece that wraps over the top of the frame?

Question 3 - How do I remove the current scab plates from the frame?  They are fulled welded on the perimeter of the scab plate.

Here's my cheezy frame and slider diagram  :laugh:
84 4Runner
Swapped EFI and a rebuilt 22RE
Marlin Dual Ultimate crawler
Marlin high steer
TG springs
5.29's, Aussie locked front and rear
39.5" Iroks on 15x10 2.5" backspaced wheels
109" wheelbase
Addicted Off Road 8 point cage
Addicted Off Road front bumper

Addicted Off Road

Colorado Marlin members, check out the Colorado section!!!

Yota87Truck

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Re: New slider build questions
« Reply #1 on: Mar 22, 2012, 09:14:40 PM »
A while back somebody posted a strain graph of different mounting types(with the force from below).  I beleive the diamond shape was the worst because all the pressure hit at the top peak wanting to pierce your frame.  I think they also had a graph of a round one.  I think for sure adding an angle over the top(or bottom) would ad strength.  I know a lot of kits have it wrapped around the bottom of the frame. 

As far as removal you will most likely be making your frame more weak.  I would try and just leave them and move the new leg locations. If this is not possible use a torch/plasma and/or angle grinder to cut them off.   It won't be fun.  But I wouldn't worry too much if it does weaken your frame because you will be adding new 'scab' plates in thier place and they will act as a piece of the frame and strengthening that portion.

Also the scab plates VS slider leg mounts will be stronger because they will be welded to the top and bottom of frame making it near impossible to "slightly wrinkle" the frame.

Volcom [OP]

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Re: New slider build questions
« Reply #2 on: Mar 23, 2012, 10:11:44 AM »
Right on, thanks for the advice!  I'm thinking of making my scab plates 6-7" wide and running from the top to the bottom of the frame.  Currently, they don't run top to bottom and right above the scab plate is where the frame is wrinkled.

I might just reuse these sliders and add a forth leg to them.  Since the sliders didn't actually bend, it would save me some time.  I can just sawzall them off of the current scab plates, grind the old scabs off and reweld some bigger, thicker plates to the frame.  My slider arms are currently gusseted like this

V
O

With two small triangle gussets in a V pattern above the slider leg.  I might change that to one large one that extends further out on the leg.
84 4Runner
Swapped EFI and a rebuilt 22RE
Marlin Dual Ultimate crawler
Marlin high steer
TG springs
5.29's, Aussie locked front and rear
39.5" Iroks on 15x10 2.5" backspaced wheels
109" wheelbase
Addicted Off Road 8 point cage
Addicted Off Road front bumper

Addicted Off Road

Colorado Marlin members, check out the Colorado section!!!

 
 
 
 
 

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