Author Topic: How Do These Welds Look? (Read 8540 times)

854x4 · « **on:** Jan 22, 2012, 05:21:33 PM »

Built a front hitch for a winch this weekend and trying to get some input on my welds.Its built from a FROR crossmember brace and a salvaged smittybuilt bumper reciever with 3/16 gussets and fully welded to the frame. I think there pretty good for a harborfreight flux welder with lincoln wire .030

Sparkplug · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 22, 2012, 05:28:43 PM »

dont look like it was very hot to me, but it prob hold just fine

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 22, 2012, 05:34:35 PM »

x2 they look strong enough,
looks as if you went to fast and didnt let it pool down
110 or 220 welder?

854x4 · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 22, 2012, 05:36:54 PM »

Its a 110 and I had it cranked all the way up

junya92toy · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 22, 2012, 05:43:17 PM »

turn the wire speed down then preheat alittle

854x4 · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 22, 2012, 06:08:33 PM »

Thanks for the input guys next time I weld one up I'll go a little slower.

81 toyota · « **Reply #6 on:** Apr 06, 2012, 09:48:51 AM »

ok it looks like are not tying in on both sides you need more side to side manipulation, to ocomplish that do a sercular motion while rocking side to side to enshure good penitration on both base metals. if you do this you will get good enufe penitration oh and i would not advise preheating the metle because if you overdo it you can create week welds.

IronClad · « **Reply #7 on:** Apr 06, 2012, 10:13:49 AM »

Quote from: 81 toyota on Apr 06, 2012, 09:48:51 AM

ok it looks like are not tying in on both sides you need more side to side manipulation, to ocomplish that do a sercular motion while rocking side to side to enshure good penitration on both base metals. if you do this you will get good enufe penitration oh and i would not advise preheating the metle because if you overdo it you can create week welds.

Please just stop.

junya92toy · « **Reply #8 on:** Apr 06, 2012, 02:39:53 PM »

Quote from: 81 toyota on Apr 06, 2012, 09:48:51 AM

ok it looks like are not tying in on both sides you need more side to side manipulation, to ocomplish that do a sercular motion while rocking side to side to enshure good penitration on both base metals. if you do this you will get good enufe penitration oh and i would not advise preheating the metle because if you overdo it you can create week welds.

First of all learn to spell. And second, no pre heating will not created weak welds. I dont know who taught you how to weld, but I would suggest learning.

81 toyota · « **Reply #9 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 09:03:31 AM »

actaly i know alot about welding i am a aws 6g fcaw certified welder i also have a 3 and 4g in gmaw and 3 and 4g fcaw certifed in Structural unlimited thickness. and im sorry if i cant spell that is actualy is because I have seveer dislecia. and if you dont know how acactly to preheat your metle you can over heet it and cause it to become week i whached some one do the exact same thing on a aws test plate and fail so yes you it can cause a failure in welds

81 toyota · « **Reply #10 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 09:22:59 AM »

oh and they guy who toght me how to weld knows more about welding and rock crawling than you will ever know.

junya92toy · « **Reply #11 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 09:30:22 AM »

I doubt that, I have a all position cert in dualshield, hard wire,
bridge certs, for dual shield, stick, submerged arc.
And on a high ALLOY steel, you can over heat it, but its just a frame rail, its fine.

86rustbucket · « **Reply #12 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 09:46:06 AM »

Everyone get your rubber boots out. Looks like we have a pissing contest.

junya92toy · « **Reply #13 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 09:52:47 AM »

Naw, dude just needs to learn that there is more then one way to skin a cat. Now if he was really smart about saying anything about pre heating he would say, well you need to be careful not to get it too hot. Depending on the type of steel it is, you can reach its critical temp and change the actual make up of the steel its self. Thus making it not as strong or in some cases brittle. But in something like a frame for a truck and mild steel tubing, you shouldnt need to worry about that. A 200-300 degree preheat should be plenty and your safe bet. You can get a temp stick from any welding supply store.

81 toyota · « **Reply #14 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 10:33:40 AM »

the reason i sed not to preheat is it takes a few seconds to go from a few hundred to a few thousand with a torch

junya92toy · « **Reply #15 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 10:43:21 AM »

you must suck using a torch and you should know that when welding higher alloy steels, it is required to preheat. otherwise you can get cracking along the weld

81 toyota · « **Reply #16 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 11:05:16 AM »

hey there is no need to get all angry i had just sujested that it was a bad idia that someone who hase had litle experiance welding get out a oxy torch and take it to a truck frame i never sed you dont know how to weld i jest was a bit mad that you acused me of not nowing how to weld when i gave my opinion on the madder and there are diferent styles to doing things i was traned by and aws (American welding society) welding corse and the guy who toght me how to weld is extreemy Knowledgeable so ya i stand by what he toght me

junya92toy · « **Reply #17 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 11:44:13 AM »

I have a degree in welding, with honors.

81 toyota · « **Reply #18 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 12:43:45 PM »

hey im not saying you that you arnt a good welder im jest saying that i think the way i was toght is right because my teacher is a reely knowledgeable person he also hase a degree in welding. and his corse is AWs aprooved and the iron workers union also suports his other corse

junya92toy · « **Reply #19 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 05:08:06 PM »

I guess having two state CWI watching you take a weld test place, and making sure you preheat it first is wrong huh. Ill let the state know that.

yota_krawler · « **Reply #20 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 07:52:29 PM »

The welds dont look too bad. The toes are not tied in, but if you were to preheat 200-300* and use a different motion it could turn out better.

What kind of motion were you doing? No you dont have to but I find it easier for me to do a "stepping" motion. I do that with all the processes I use. If you watch the back of the puddle get round and step away about a 1/4 of an inch for just a split second the puddle with solidify (freeze) then go back to it but not right back on top of it. Step 1/4" away and come back an 1/8th. (((((( you will see "dimes", you will see your toes tie in, it will help with cold roll, and having a high crown to the weld.

Always run a practice bead on some scrap to see how the machine is running. Try a few different things and see if that helps.

aws is held to a lower standard than ASME... so saying you are a AWS!!! certified welder is like saying, "ya, well I almost won"

Its always good to pre heat. If the steel is cold you will shock it. Heat will be pulled in different spots of the metal being welded (standard a-36 is not by anymeans perfect) so cracking, cold roll, and pitting could result in "shocking" the steel.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #21 on:** Apr 07, 2012, 08:43:41 PM »

Quote from: 81 toyota on Apr 07, 2012, 09:03:31 AM

actually i know alot about welding i am a aws 6g fcaw certified welder i also have a 3 and 4g in gmaw and 3 and 4g fcaw certifed in Structural unlimited thickness. and I'm sorry if i cant spell that is actually is because I have sever dislecia. and if you dont know how acactly to preheat your metle you can over heet it and cause it to become week i whached some one do the exact same thing on a aws test plate and fail so yes you it can cause a failure in welds

why did you state your fcaw cirt twice?

and when you preheat if you post heal and cool it slow it will not afect the quality of the weld actually it will reduce distortion.

Quote from: 81 toyota on Apr 06, 2012, 09:48:51 AM

ok it looks like are not tying in on both sides you need more side to side manipulation, to ocomplish that do a sercular motion while rocking side to side to enshure good penitration on both base metals. if you do this you will get good enufe penitration oh and i would not advise preheating the metle because if you overdo it you can create week welds.

I believe you mean fusion as you are fusing the metal together not penetrating it together

and just a hint there is a spell check option beside where you click post at the bottom.

83yota · « **Reply #22 on:** Apr 13, 2012, 05:50:22 PM »

well if it makes you all feel any better I am shadetree certified welder

and have a PHD in redneck eng

. Your welds look like they will hold. I used to use a HF welder and now that I run a Lincon I CAN'T go back. Any ways the best thing you can do (for a guy like me) is get out some scrap steel and start laying metal. This is what I did. Just figure out what it takes to make your welds look like a roll of quarters. Play with your welder, see what it will do and don't be afraid to grind it off and start over. just My "Professional" suggestion

junya92toy · « **Reply #23 on:** Apr 13, 2012, 06:04:38 PM »

Honestly, the whole stack of dimes or whatever is the stupidest thing ever, unless you are stick or tig welding

jimbo74 · « **Reply #24 on:** Apr 13, 2012, 07:11:03 PM »

i think the welding looks fine....

but i have a few issues with the mount...... it sticks out way too far.... i think it is going to snap the crossmember clear off.... or transfer the load to the framerails and rip something.....

-Matt- · « **Reply #25 on:** Apr 13, 2012, 08:34:51 PM »

kinda hard to give advice to someone without knowing much, we have no idea how decent his 110 power is, dont no the stick out he was using.. which is fairly crucial with flux core. gun angle or whether hes pushing or pulling (for FC can also be night and day difference), or if he was even using the right polarity (though it looks like he was). don't know the motion, or the wire speed to volt ratio. also using a HF... that might be the best the machine can do, i use to have the same machine and it wouldn't pump out any better of a bead appearance than what you have shown no matter what i would do. so many factors with welding its really hard to give advise unless your there and experienced.

your welds look better than average id say for what your working with. looks like this isnt your first time welding. and if it is then your on the right track.

you shouldn't have a dime stack looking bead with flux core anyways, thought it can be done its not standard practice. so at least your good there.

parts of the weld look a little cold.. but my old HF 110 FC machine also was the same way, even on the highest setting it was barely hot enough for 3/16s

looks like the welds will hold up, wouldn't be worried about it. but like someone else stated your design is kinda ehh... i would have either braced it better/differently, or like jimbo said at least make it stick out less.

yota_krawler · « **Reply #26 on:** Apr 13, 2012, 08:55:10 PM »

Quote from: junya92toy on Apr 13, 2012, 06:04:38 PM

Honestly, the whole stack of dimes or whatever is the stupidest thing ever, unless you are stick or tig welding

i personally like the "dime stack" better than a worm apperance... I was just refering to the apperence. flux core, stick, tig, mig, can all have the stacked apperence.

so honestly, the stacked dimes look better than cold roll and a high crown.

junya92toy · « **Reply #27 on:** Apr 13, 2012, 09:03:06 PM »

Yes they can, but trust me, a flat smooth weld is much stronger.

yota_krawler · « **Reply #28 on:** Apr 13, 2012, 09:15:53 PM »

good to know. i personally dont know that for a fact. i certed asme and all my welds were "stacked"

854x4 [OP]

854x4 [OP]

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