Author Topic: Best weight oil for a 22re motor for all wheather temps??  (Read 86127 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

19864runner

  • Offline Rock Master
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: -18
  • Male Posts: 184
  • Member since Mar '11
  • 35s and a lift kit how stuck can you get?
    • View Profile
Best weight oil for a 22re motor for all wheather temps??
« on: Oct 03, 2011, 03:28:05 PM »
I picked up 5w30 castrol synethic on a accident i meant to get 10w30 cause in the toyota book they say you can run 5w30 in 50 and below temps and i run it in winter and summer. I also noticed my stock oil pressure gauge needle doesn't stay right in the middle where it should and i have 4.5 quarts of oil in the 22re which is what should be in it. I was wondering if something higher then 10w 30 oil will bring the gauge where it should be right in the middle.

rattlers

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: -68
  • Posts: 64
  • Member since Mar '11
    • View Profile
I dont know In my 85 4runner , 22re, I  run 10w40 for reasons I dont know I hope thats ok to.. and I hope thats ok for yours
__________________________
ll_______ll_______ll__TOYOTA_ll    
ll_______ll_______ll____85____l

ToyotaObsession

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 0
  • Male Posts: 74
  • Member since Aug '11
    • View Profile
    • Facebook
I run 5w30 in everything I own. I don't have a problem with Oil Pressure.

This will help explain the different weights. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-consumption/question164.htm

But what oil to run usually seems to dependon the person lol. Every Forum I've ever been on there's people that say 20w50 to people who say 0w20. For what it's worth I've always ran 5w30 without any problem.  :dunno:
Wait... What?

konarider1993

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: -7
  • Male Posts: 101
  • Member since May '11
    • View Profile
I run 5w30 in everything I own. I don't have a problem with Oil Pressure.

This will help explain the different weights. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-consumption/question164.htm

But what oil to run usually seems to dependon the person lol. Every Forum I've ever been on there's people that say 20w50 to people who say 0w20. For what it's worth I've always ran 5w30 without any problem.  :dunno:
x2

19864runner [OP]

  • Offline Rock Master
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: -18
  • Male Posts: 184
  • Member since Mar '11
  • 35s and a lift kit how stuck can you get?
    • View Profile
k thanks

rattlers

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: -68
  • Posts: 64
  • Member since Mar '11
    • View Profile
k thanks
do you have some pictures of the 79 truck that goes with that limited edition badge
« Last Edit: Oct 06, 2011, 06:53:09 PM by rattlers »
__________________________
ll_______ll_______ll__TOYOTA_ll    
ll_______ll_______ll____85____l

Squeebs

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: -1
  • Male Posts: 14
  • Member since Sep '11
  • We laugh, you scream and shout
    • View Profile
I run 20-50 in bakersfield summers, and 10-30 in the winters. Both weights in synthetic. 20-50 definitely shuts a 22re up though haha.
Living on your knees, conformity
Or dying on your feet for honesty.

TacoRunner

  • Offline The 2K Group
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: 19177
  • Male Posts: 2,324
  • Member since Feb '04
  • The 1st 3RZ swap 99'-01'
    • View Profile
    • 4wheelunderground
Full synthetic 0w-50
www.4WHEELUNDERGROUND.com
info@4wheelunderground.com
AKA The GODFATHER The 3RZ Original

Performance Tuned shocks for Leaf Sprung Vehicles   http://www.4wheelunderground.com/Tuning.html

Rocksurfer

  • Momentum Man
  • Offline Gold Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 759
  • Male Posts: 13,855
  • Member since Jul '04
  • Lego Enforcement
    • View Profile
    • Spinnin4s 4x4 Club
Older motors are not as sensitive to different viscosities, as you can see that several people run different wieghts, brands and types. I will say that I would not run a synthetic in a motor with a lot of miles that didn't run it from the start. Once the seals are conditioned for either synthetic or conventional you should stick with that type and never fall for the blends they are a waste.
The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

87hillbillyoter

  • Offline The 1K Club
  • *
  • Turtle Points: -43
  • Male Posts: 1,066
  • Member since Mar '10
  • git er duuunnn!
    • View Profile
i always ran 15w-40 in mine, because i have a big 50 gallon drum of it in my shop
:usa:
1987 SAS'ed toyota 4x4 pickup 22re swap
build up- http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=75111.0
:usa:

ToyotaObsession

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 0
  • Male Posts: 74
  • Member since Aug '11
    • View Profile
    • Facebook
Older motors are not as sensitive to different viscosities, as you can see that several people run different wieghts, brands and types. I will say that I would not run a synthetic in a motor with a lot of miles that didn't run it from the start. Once the seals are conditioned for either synthetic or conventional you should stick with that type and never fall for the blends they are a waste.

Blends are usually the best value. They are usually at least 50% Synthetic and I've seen some brands are as much as 75%. You get a lot of the benefits of Synthetic without paying the premium 100% offers.
Wait... What?

Rocksurfer

  • Momentum Man
  • Offline Gold Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 759
  • Male Posts: 13,855
  • Member since Jul '04
  • Lego Enforcement
    • View Profile
    • Spinnin4s 4x4 Club
But what is a synthetic oil? It is engineered conventional oil, with syn oil each and every molecule has been engineered to be the exact same size which is why it flows better and does not collect dirt. So if you mix syn with conventional you basically have turned the syn back into conventional oil. Sure you will have more molecules the same size but you just re-added the inconsistently of the conventional oil thus you have reduced the capabilities and benefits of the synthetic base. For the price if you are thinking about a blend you might as well go full synthetic since the mileage benefit for the synthetic far out last the blend.
The Ghost-Rider/Ghost Runner

No matter how far you fall, the ground will always catch you

ajordan1975

  • Offline The 1K Club
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 8
  • Male Posts: 1,004
  • Member since Jun '07
  • i think i'm cool
    • View Profile
1990 4Runner, SAS, 22re, 5spd, Dual stock cases, Locked f/b, interior cage

blackdiamond

  • Offline Gold Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 1174
  • Male Posts: 5,052
  • Member since Dec '03
  • Crawlin with Marlin
    • View Profile
I can't resist adding my two cents since I consider myself to be somewhat of an oil geek.  If you want to learn about oil, join the Bob Is The Oil Guy forum.

First, I don't think you can go wrong with 5w-30, 10w-30, or 10w-40.  I believe that the manual allows you to run 10w oils in all but extrememly cold temperatures.  The first number (i.e. 0w, 5w, 10w, etc.) is the number that matters for start up "cold" temperatures.  The second number is a measure of viscosity at a specified "operating" temperature so this has no connection to the weather.  Another thing to keep in mind is that the grades are ranges and oils within any grade can vary quite a bit.

An example is the 0w-30 Castrol Syntec (European Formula) that I've been running in my Sequoia.  A lot of people assume that because it's a 0w that it's a thin oil when in reality it's right below the cut off for being a 40wt oil.

All oil starts thicker and then thins when it heat up.

Think of it this way:

A straight weight (i.e. 30wt) oil is a 30wt oil at "cold" temperatures and then thins a certain amount at the "operating" temperature.

A multi-weight (i.e. 10w-30) oil is effectively a 10w (i.e. thinner than a 30wt would be at the same temperature) oil at "cold" temperatures and then thins to the same amount that the straight 30wt would at "operating" temperatures.

Multi-grade oils have a narrower operating range which means that they start less thick and then thin out to the same amount so there is less difference between the two extremes.

The other thing to consider is that the 10w, 5w, and 0w ratings are not done at the same temperatures so it doesn't necessarily tell you anything about the relative viscosities at the same temperature.  In some cases, a 10w could be thinner than a 0w at the 10w rated temperature, but the 0w will stay much thinner to lower temperatures.

Make any sense?

Just buy any oil that you feel comfortable and you won't go wrong.  Valvoline Maxlife is an excellent product for the money, it's actually a synthetic blend.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

  • Offline Gold Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 1174
  • Male Posts: 5,052
  • Member since Dec '03
  • Crawlin with Marlin
    • View Profile
Blends are usually the best value. They are usually at least 50% Synthetic and I've seen some brands are as much as 75%. You get a lot of the benefits of Synthetic without paying the premium 100% offers.

What's your evidence for this?  It seems that what I've heard is that the numbers are not generally advertised and a very small amount of synthetic will allow an oil be a blend.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

ky-homelite

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 0
  • Posts: 26
  • Member since Oct '11
    • View Profile
What's your evidence for this?  It seems that what I've heard is that the numbers are not generally advertised and a very small amount of synthetic will allow an oil be a blend.

I would be curious to hear this as well. I was under the impression they could put as little as 1% synthetic in and then call the oil semi-synthetic. And honestly, for the few dollars it costs, wouldn't it be more wise to run fully synthetic? Unless of course it's leaking all over the place. Then I'd just run a decent dino oil.

yotaboy79

  • stuck in the shop
  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: -19
  • Male Posts: 2,838
  • Member since Aug '03
    • View Profile
I run 10W-40 but ive ran 10w-30, 20w-50, and 15w40 in the past with no problems it's not that big of a deal. And the bearing clearances are what determines your oil pressure, the weight of the oil will not affect it a noticeable amount in normal circumstances.
Also I would strongly recommend using a zddp additive with your oil in the older rigs that have a tappet style valve train. The zddp (basically zink) level got reduced drastically in the last year or so because every car company is running roller rockers now a days. Lucas makes the additive I run it's actually break in additive, half of a small bottle with every oil change. It will keep your valve train alive for much longer. I can post a picture of the bottle if you want.

IronClad

  • Offline The 2K Group
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: 635
  • Male Posts: 2,284
  • Member since Feb '05
  • Annihilation Fabrication
    • View Profile
delo 400 ftw
Annihilation  Fabrication
Do you need a Hammer?
My build thingy... http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39885.0
(╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻
Word hard, Keep your head in the game and if anyone gets in your way tell them you don't give a damn !

yotaboy79

  • stuck in the shop
  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: -19
  • Male Posts: 2,838
  • Member since Aug '03
    • View Profile
delo 400 ftw

I ran delo 400 15w-40 for a long time and still would in anything besides the motor in the wheeler, only royal purple for that suped up 4banger. i believe it's still one of the few oils that still has a relatively normal level of zddp

daniresch

  • Offline 4WD Legend
  • *****
  • Turtle Points: 930
  • Male Posts: 761
  • Member since Apr '11
    • View Profile
I ran 10w40 valvoline in the 22re, no problems.
1988 Blue Std Cab: SAS, Longs, HP/ARB/5.29 Front, ARB/5.29 Rear, Marlin Dual Ultimate w/ 23 Spline MC07XD-R10, Marlin 30 Spline Front & Rear Output Shafts, Dave's Triple shifter, FROR crossmember, Bilstein 12" f+r, RUF w/ 63s, 7in bob, 40x13.5x17 MTR's on Racelines Monster Beadlocks 17x9.5

build: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=80954.510

yotaneck13

  • Mr. Right NOW
  • Offline The 2K Group
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: -52
  • Male Posts: 2,300
  • Member since Nov '09
  • MR. RIGHT NOW
    • View Profile
    • Right Now Racing and Fabrication
i ran valvoline 5w30 in my 22re at all time and it was fine till my buddy put it in his first gen and carbd it snapped a rod bering/ bot halves broke in half.
RNR FABRICATION ON THE EAST COAST!!! rightnowracingfabrication@gmail.com (814)-516-5176 like us on facebook www.facebook.com/rnrfab
R.I.P Derek James Black 1995-2010 I miss you BUD! :sad2: 81 4wd wheelable 20r ifs rear welded on 33's goes amazing
"THE GENERAL" My build-on the backburner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=63519.0


I make more money that you, my wife is hotter than yours, my thingy is bigger than yours

Zs Confederate Toy

  • Offline The 1K Club
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 2
  • Male Posts: 1,146
  • Member since Mar '11
    • View Profile
    • Buy me a beer
I run 10w30 year round. Castrol Syn or Valvoline Syn is what I usually run, but after I rebuilt I started running conventional Rotella T for the additives. I only have about 2500 miles on it and no complaints
ZACH
87 Rock Rat X
80 SR5 The Shady Lady
Trail Junky

blackdiamond

  • Offline Gold Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 1174
  • Male Posts: 5,052
  • Member since Dec '03
  • Crawlin with Marlin
    • View Profile
i ran valvoline 5w30 in my 22re at all time and it was fine till my buddy put it in his first gen and carbd it snapped a rod bering/ bot halves broke in half.

This had nothing to do will the oil used.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

blackdiamond

  • Offline Gold Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 1174
  • Male Posts: 5,052
  • Member since Dec '03
  • Crawlin with Marlin
    • View Profile
I run 10w30 year round. Castrol Syn or Valvoline Syn is what I usually run, but after I rebuilt I started running conventional Rotella T for the additives. I only have about 2500 miles on it and no complaints

I am not saying that your choice of oil is anything but excellent, but you would be hard pressed to find an oil that would cause a problem in 2500 miles.  Oil rarely, if ever, causes failures unless it never gets changed or gets too low.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

yotaneck13

  • Mr. Right NOW
  • Offline The 2K Group
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: -52
  • Male Posts: 2,300
  • Member since Nov '09
  • MR. RIGHT NOW
    • View Profile
    • Right Now Racing and Fabrication
i never said it did just saying motor with less than 10k on it snapped bering in half
RNR FABRICATION ON THE EAST COAST!!! rightnowracingfabrication@gmail.com (814)-516-5176 like us on facebook www.facebook.com/rnrfab
R.I.P Derek James Black 1995-2010 I miss you BUD! :sad2: 81 4wd wheelable 20r ifs rear welded on 33's goes amazing
"THE GENERAL" My build-on the backburner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=63519.0


I make more money that you, my wife is hotter than yours, my thingy is bigger than yours

yotaneck13

  • Mr. Right NOW
  • Offline The 2K Group
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: -52
  • Male Posts: 2,300
  • Member since Nov '09
  • MR. RIGHT NOW
    • View Profile
    • Right Now Racing and Fabrication
RNR FABRICATION ON THE EAST COAST!!! rightnowracingfabrication@gmail.com (814)-516-5176 like us on facebook www.facebook.com/rnrfab
R.I.P Derek James Black 1995-2010 I miss you BUD! :sad2: 81 4wd wheelable 20r ifs rear welded on 33's goes amazing
"THE GENERAL" My build-on the backburner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=63519.0


I make more money that you, my wife is hotter than yours, my thingy is bigger than yours

Toynoter

  • Offline Rock Master
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: -16
  • Posts: 157
  • Member since Dec '11
    • View Profile
    • Please ban me!
          OK!
      I am banned!


5-30 W just seems to thin, It may be Okay when the eng is brand new but after it wears it is to thin,

This came to my attention after changing oil on a Saturn car, said 5-30 W on the cap, so thats what I put in, the next day the gal called me and said the oil light was coming on @ hot idle,

Out with the 5- 30 and in with the 15 -40, no light,

And I am with the folks that say not so much as what type, but that it is maintained, and never runs low, afterall my nephew put 20,000 miles on a old escort pile pouring used tranny juice in the pile,

It finially threw a rod, but it was because he let it run low,

79coyotefrg

  • Rock Ninja
  • Offline Gold Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 1452
  • Male Posts: 22,633
  • Member since May '02
  • Solid axle Toys Rule ! ! !
    • View Profile
    • HotSprings Superlift ORV park
living in the south I run 10w40 in the winter and 20w50 in the summer.  110* in the shade and stop and go traffic sometimes the 20w50 needs some help :ack:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

yotaneck13

  • Mr. Right NOW
  • Offline The 2K Group
  • ***
  • Turtle Points: -52
  • Male Posts: 2,300
  • Member since Nov '09
  • MR. RIGHT NOW
    • View Profile
    • Right Now Racing and Fabrication
what i have run in everything tho
RNR FABRICATION ON THE EAST COAST!!! rightnowracingfabrication@gmail.com (814)-516-5176 like us on facebook www.facebook.com/rnrfab
R.I.P Derek James Black 1995-2010 I miss you BUD! :sad2: 81 4wd wheelable 20r ifs rear welded on 33's goes amazing
"THE GENERAL" My build-on the backburner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=63519.0


I make more money that you, my wife is hotter than yours, my thingy is bigger than yours

blackdiamond

  • Offline Gold Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 1174
  • Male Posts: 5,052
  • Member since Dec '03
  • Crawlin with Marlin
    • View Profile
living in the south I run 10w40 in the winter and 20w50 in the summer.  110* in the shade and stop and go traffic sometimes the 20w50 needs some help :ack:

How do you determine that it needs any help?  Even 110 degrees in the shade makes little difference in the actual operating temperature of your engine, right?  Isn't that what the cooling system is for?  If you're pushing your engine like  a race car I would anticipate some elevated temperatures, but under normal driving conditions a properly working cooling system should keep it about the same on a 110 degree day as on an 80 degree day.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

 
 
 
 
 

Related Topics

3 Replies
1666 Views
Last post Apr 15, 2005, 01:12:41 PM
by yo
6 Replies
2622 Views
Last post Jul 06, 2007, 10:01:24 PM
by Plowking
6 Replies
7228 Views
Last post Nov 27, 2007, 03:43:47 PM
by THK Matt
7 Replies
2078 Views
Last post Nov 22, 2011, 05:15:10 PM
by Twisted
12 Replies
2285 Views
Last post Jun 26, 2020, 01:55:23 AM
by Gnarly4X