Author Topic: 1980 Daily Driver/ Mild crawler build (Read 98666 times)

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #30 on:** Sep 21, 2011, 04:30:32 PM »

These should help tame the wild speed bumps at the local shopping center.

14" 2.0 Fox Emulsion shocks with extra tuning shims, and a set of Marlin's tall bumps on sale right now.

santa cruz crawler · « **Reply #31 on:** Sep 23, 2011, 02:43:59 PM »

Looks good , fox shocks all awesome for wheelin!
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RainierToy · « **Reply #32 on:** Sep 23, 2011, 04:30:22 PM »

Quote from: OldGold3VZE on Sep 21, 2011, 04:30:32 PM

These should help tame the wild speed bumps at the local shopping center.

14" 2.0 Fox Emulsion shocks with extra tuning shims, and a set of Marlin's tall bumps on sale right now.

i have the same problem in school zones with speed bumps. so fox shocks can solve my problem?? haha

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #33 on:** Sep 25, 2011, 11:18:32 AM »

Cab on.

Body mount will nee a trim.

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #34 on:** Sep 25, 2011, 04:07:08 PM »

Put the bed on to get an idea for my sliders and rear bumper design. Time to bend some tube!

I will be keeping the lower bed skirt, or vlance, or whatever it's called.

Also, just as a side note, those are stock rear springs with a 6" shackle. I'd like to find a set of the 3rd gen 51" springs to get that shackle angle a little slacker, but it's not necessary for this build to have lots of flex, just good ride quality.

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #35 on:** Sep 27, 2011, 08:25:45 PM »

Found more rust in the floor, ugggh. At least it was in a place that required a thick plate for strength (seat and seat belt mount) and it was pretty easy to fix.

Also, started on my slider mounts. 1.5" x 3" 3/16" with a gusset to the frame and a notch for the 1.75" slider tube.

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #36 on:** Sep 28, 2011, 10:16:01 PM »

lookin good! $Beer Chug\'n$

COwheeler · « **Reply #37 on:** Sep 29, 2011, 12:12:44 PM »

Kick azz with that cab and bed on it. You work fast brotha! $Beer Chug\'n$

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #38 on:** Oct 01, 2011, 02:58:09 PM »

Last night I got stung in the eye, so fabbin' is pretty hard. Got a slider on, and ran out of welding wire. Good reason to take a break, my face is killing me!

santa cruz crawler · « **Reply #39 on:** Oct 03, 2011, 06:40:55 AM »

Keep the pictures comin, I'll keep an eye out for you , lol

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #40 on:** Oct 03, 2011, 01:17:26 PM »

The stock bumper mounts were a bit in the way for mounting my steering box, so I removed them and added a gusset. Did I mention that I love reinforcement all over?

Also, got the other slider on. They are not 100% symetrical, but I can blame that on the yellow yacket sting

COwheeler · « **Reply #41 on:** Oct 03, 2011, 07:32:19 PM »

After that bite on the eye I'm thinkin this rig might need a black paint job with yellow SR5 striping like my truck. Really ghost type of a paint job tho. Mickey's logo?

? Haha lookin good capt. Hook.

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #42 on:** Oct 03, 2011, 08:24:08 PM »

Quote from: COwheeler on Oct 03, 2011, 07:32:19 PM

After that bite on the eye I'm thinkin this rig might need a black paint job with yellow SR5 striping like my truck. Really ghost type of a paint job tho. Mickey's logo?? Haha lookin good capt. Hook.

Haha, no, keeping this one Marlin red. I got stung literally right after you pulled out on Friday. Your back tires might have still been on my driveway. I'm all good now. Found the nest and sprayed it good. Also, got the steering box mounted. I forgot how much I hate doing those. At least the radiator support is still removable. Shock hoops, a rear bumper and this thing can almost be called a truck again!

Plenty of drag link to tie rod clearance, and I didn't even have to cut out the radiator support. Definitely didn't need the flat pitman arm, oh well/

The list that never seems to end...

Yota87Truck · « **Reply #43 on:** Oct 03, 2011, 11:01:31 PM »

cool lookin sliders. More pics of them would be sweet! keep up the progress

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #44 on:** Oct 04, 2011, 07:34:08 AM »

Quote from: Yota87Truck on Oct 03, 2011, 11:01:31 PM

cool lookin sliders. More pics of them would be sweet! keep up the progress

Those are the best I could get with my decade old digital camera and poor lighting. They are 70" long (both main pieces), the bends are 38 degrees, the angle cut to join the 2 is 52 degrees, and the inner supports are 1.5 x 3 3/16 cut to 2.75 on the inside of the radius. The rear 2 legs to the frame are 6" from the frame mount to the inside of the radius, and for the front mounts, where the frame tapers inward I just took a 1 foot piece of my 1.5 x 3", cut my radius, and held it up to the frame to mark the angle, never measured it. There is about 5/8" gap to the door when opened. I wanted there to be a decent gap in case this becomes a true dedicated wheeler and they get bent up, plus my girlfriend requested "steps" for this truck. The kickout is just under 30 degrees. All frame legs have 90 degree gussets.

Thanks for the continued motivation!

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #45 on:** Oct 04, 2011, 05:58:43 PM »

So, I'm not too stoked on my steering mount. I don't think the flat pitman arm was a good choice, especially considering I didn't need one on my 88 runner (IFS Frame) and the clearance there is great, so I might cut out that section of frame and add in a totally new piece with the steering way up and out of the way. Currently, and this is mostly weighted, still need fenders, hood, and bumper, I'm at 2.75" from my sector shaft to my spring pack. I'm shooting for 5" uptravel, and am wondering if the shaft is going to hit my springs. Any thoughts? My runner is also at 2.75", but only has 3" uptravel, and is fully weighted with a winch.

Update...

I hooked up my cherry picker and did some garage flexing. I know this isn't the most accurate, but I flexed the truck until I was not comfortable anymore. After seeing the results I am not worried about the steering box location. I went from 2.75" to 1.5" from the sector shaft nut to the spring pack, and could not get the springs to flatten out any more. Also, if I hold a straight edge from the front spring mount to where the rear shackle would be with the springs fully flattened out there is still about 1/4" clearance. Close, but should be fine. Only a real trail test will give me my answer, but that is just going to have to wait. Shitty night time pics. P.S. I really like the rear stuff.

Check out the rear squeeze!!

And the difference in front shackle angles at flex...

I might even end up removing a leaf from the front, that 6 pack seems stiff!

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #46 on:** Oct 08, 2011, 03:10:38 PM »

Working on bump stops. The steering is a complete non-issue, not really sure why I tweaked so hard on that. I took the front axle out, and reduced the spring pack down to just the 2 mains to see where maximum bump would be. Apparently, these bump stops compress a lot, so I accounted for 1.5" of squish.

The springs hit the frame when they're flat. Not quite sure if this is gonna be a problem or not.

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #47 on:** Oct 09, 2011, 04:51:39 PM »

Here is the front end all together again. I've got just under 3" from bump to pad, and I think this will settle .5-1" once I get the front end all together, and maybe add a winch.

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #48 on:** Oct 17, 2011, 09:22:02 PM »

My 4runner has been making some awful noises from the rear axle. I was thinking Pinion gear. Pulled it and had multiple broken ring gear teeth. This will hold up the 1980 for a while since the 4runner is my current daily driver, and I have to keep it going. More to come as soon as I fix the runner.

santa cruz crawler · « **Reply #49 on:** Oct 20, 2011, 04:48:26 PM »

Through a diff in , out of the 80 , good temp fix!
Your build is lookin sweet!

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #50 on:** Oct 24, 2011, 08:16:33 PM »

Finally getting around to updating this. Got the shocks mounted.

zebracrawler · « **Reply #51 on:** Oct 24, 2011, 09:30:47 PM »

trucks looking sweet need to do shock hoops on mine

locked 4x4 · « **Reply #52 on:** Oct 24, 2011, 09:54:30 PM »

whats the purpose of the two pieces of capped off tube above the front cross member?

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #53 on:** Oct 25, 2011, 02:50:58 AM »

Quote from: locked 4x4 on Oct 24, 2011, 09:54:30 PM

whats the purpose of the two pieces of capped off tube above the front cross member?

Stinger mount. It'll be like one big shock hoop. I've done it on other builds with good results. This one is just a little beefier (see earlier pics).

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #54 on:** Oct 30, 2011, 07:01:34 PM »

Rear shock mounted...

Had to go high with the upper mount, and low with the lower mount in order not to cut the bed. 5.5" up, and 6.5" down travel.

I think I'm going to try and get my bumpers built this week or next weekend, then I can get ready for paint and dialing in the interior.

81 toyota · « **Reply #55 on:** Oct 31, 2011, 10:06:12 AM »

nice job on the shocks hope your bumpers come out good

SloCrawler · « **Reply #56 on:** Oct 31, 2011, 01:13:53 PM »

nice work,,

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #57 on:** Oct 31, 2011, 07:23:45 PM »

Not too motivated tonight, but did add some gussets to those rear shock mounts.

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #58 on:** Nov 07, 2011, 07:28:49 PM »

Just finished adjusting the valving in my shocks and adding some sweet bump stops to the 5/8" shafts. 30/70 for the rears, and 40/90 for the fronts. We'll have to see how that works out. Looking like mild weather this weekend, so some paint action might be in order.

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #59 on:** Nov 24, 2011, 12:16:23 PM »

Got started on body work and paint. Also, build a really basic push bar for the front so that I could mount the stock chrome front bumper to give this a stock/mod look. I'll build a beefier front bumper when I buy a winch, which might be a while.