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...why buy when you can build?
You're going to have to get deep into electric motor tech. They can be built to suit different powerbands just like ICE's, in fact they are more versatile. Obviously you need something with more low end, but you know this. Are you sure that the coupler is not binding at all? That would cause the motor to draw more than it should for sure. In the other thread you said that the motor was spinning at 7k RPM, that seems like overkill, on most cars the a/c compressor is underdriven, they only need about 1500 rpm to work good. I think direct drive is the way to go, just need to find a slower motor if you ask me.You seem to be pretty good at sourcing stuff, good job!
We already do that (I know you've heard it before...LOL) but Adam looks like he's using a 20 gallon tank instead of 10 but it still looks very much like ours.I'm waiting to hear about its performance and what Adam thinks about it.Adam, it looks really good, nice job!
I've always wanted an Oasis compressor but never wanted to pay $900 bucks for them.
Where did you see them for $900? I saw them for $1500 when I searched online!
Make it easy on yourself and get a motor at the same voltage as your vehicle. I would think the the golf shop should know what voltage they use.If the motor has about 3.5 HP and turns approximately 1500 to 1800 RPM, it should handle the york at 200 PSI without slowing down.Be leary of turning the pump faster than that or it might eventually starve the bearings of oil depending on how long it runs continuously.
With that comment, that would lead me to believe that a 4.5hp winch motor that turns at 2100rpm would work perfect for this type of application (just like your first build at the top of this thread). Is your York in good shape? Is it hard to turn by hand? How tight does that coupler fit together? Any slop that would lead to misalignment? Your first build looks solid and that was the direction I was headed before you said you had issues. Do you think a different coupler like the Oasis unit has would make it work better?I was kinda of thinking of making some gears to fit the motor & the york to get the york to spin faster than 2100rpm and allow the motor to work less by gear reduction. I would just have to make sure it was full of oil every time I used it and put some type of oil filter on the output since the Yorks tend to spit out oil at higher rpms.
Also, I don't understand your first and second round RPM readings...is that with the york connected or not?
Good info. So if you can eliminate the voltage drop it should pull less amps, correct?Also, I don't understand your first and second round RPM readings...is that with the york connected or not?
The difference between 8 & 4 gauge wire on the motor. Nice testing! So it does look like the motor will power the York, that's awesome news. I'm guessing that stepping up to some 4 gauge wiring and using a solenoid will help with that voltage drop.
I could be WAY out in left field here but have you considered a gear reduction starter? I found a website with some example specs. here: http://www.aptfast.com/APT_Parts/Starters/gear_reduction_starters.htm
yeah being gear reduction running a york compressor it'd be just like free-wheeling for it compared to cranking an engine I would think. Add a 5 gallon tank and I think you'd be set. If nothing else buy lifetime guaratee starters from napa and everytime your burn one up take it back for your free replacement
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