Author Topic: Air Flow Meter Tuning  (Read 32478 times)

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blyota91

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Air Flow Meter Tuning
« on: Sep 12, 2004, 05:33:30 PM »
This Thread is Featured in our Tech from our Forum Members section!


I am amazed at the wealth of knowledge on here and all these questions keep coming to my mind.  Currently my 91 pickup with a 22re has the following done to the engine, Comp Cams 87-123-4 It has .430 intake and exhaust lift and 260 degrees advertised duration.  I also have a thorley tri-y header, KN Filter, Catco high flow cat, 2-1/4' exhasut and a cherry bomb muffler, along with 8mm accel wires and bosch platinum plugs.  I have also modified the air box for more flow.  NOW, onto my question, have I done enough to the engine so that I should adjust the MAF meter for a little richer mix.  I want to get an A/F ratio gauge, but not right now, any ideas?

Andrew
« Last Edit: Apr 15, 2011, 11:44:20 AM by BigMike »
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toyhatsu

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #1 on: Sep 13, 2004, 04:01:32 PM »
I suppose that you could just play with the potentiometer but I think that you would be guessing without the air/fuel meter.  I got a digital on EBay for $25.00 but don't have it hooked up yet due to an engine swap.
1991 Daihatsu Rocky, 3RZ-fe, Marlin super heavey duty clutch and pressure plate, Marlin W56-C-HD, duals, Marlin twinstick, three link front with Fox AirShox, 35's, Toy axles, 5.29:1, ARB F&R etc.

BigMike

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #2 on: Sep 13, 2004, 06:14:07 PM »
Hey Andrew,

I've done this to a couple 22R-E's and a couple more 4A-GE's and I've found that its not really worth it. Your engine does have a very impressive list of modifications, most notable in relation to this mod would be your cam, that should make this a worth while mod for you. Im sure that since you are considering this mod that you know about it and what is required, but none the less, I'll try to find a very very very old page I wrote the first time I did this to my MR2.

My friend's Corolla had a Autometer Air/Fuel mix gauge and we adjusted his MAF a bit and it didnt really change so much on the gauge as it did to the actual affect to the engines performance and driveability. And on my MR2, I've got a really nice SplitSecond air/fuel meter and it actually doesnt even change its reading, the ECU is able to control the actual amount of burned mixture that gets to the O2 for the gauge to pickup and report back to the driver. So the gauge is nice to have, but I wouldn't say that it's necessarily required to get the best results from this.

Here is how I found to measure the changes and my feedback as well.
First I marked the stock setting and then loosened the spring tension by about 7 or 8 clicks on the gear. Then I would fire it up, put it in first gear, get the car rolling, and then let it idle in 1st gear and noted how the engine reacted while moving very slowly idling in 1st gear. I found out that about the maximum amount I could change the gear was 5 clicks; anything more and the car would stutter and almost die - and then surge forward - and then almost die -- while in 1st gear and moving while at an idle engine speed. If I put it too high, like 10, then it would just stall out and could not move itself while idling in gear. Its to rich.

So I found that 5 was the best setting for my engine and for the way I had my engine set up, but, it was not really good in the lower rpms. I dont know why, but it was like it was flooding out or something. It still had ok power, but if you really stuffed it under a load at a low engine speed, like 4th gear doing 30 mph or so (which is low for my gearing in the car) it would almost bog out and not even accelerate. But once the revs got up, it definitely felt better.

Another example I have that relates to your situation (same engine) is my friends 86' Celica with a 22R-E, bone stock. It didnt like it at all and would drink gas silly. Especially at high speeds on the freeway in 5th gear. It just didnt pull as well and really hurt gas mileage. But this was a stock engine, so that's probably why.

A 3rd example that doesnt really relate, is my buddies 86' pickup with a 22R-TE engine. Increasing the fuel mixture by doing this mod actually hurt the performance of his Turbo engine. In fact, his peak boost actually dropped almost 2 full psi, and the Turbo light would come on before neutral manifold pressure was even achieved!! Very very strange indeed. With his setup, we found that tightening up the spring tension by 2 clicks had the best results, much better power was felt at the bottom end, top end felt about the same, peak boost was the same as before the mod, but he gained some detonation - obviously - so he changed his gas to 91 oct and he gets better mileage and better power with it it at -2 clicks now, or 2 clicks in the 'tightening' direction.

But in contradicting results to the 22R-TE, the 3S-GTE found in the 2nd gen MR2's actually gain peak boost as well as peak power with this mod, as successfully tested with a Dyno and reviewed on the old MR2 Forum that I used to frequent back in the days. The strange thing is that both engines use the same efi system, MAF meter for air flow detection, and both are set by default to about 12.5 boost/fuel cut at the ECU. So its very strange what the difference is, and Im sure its more then the obvious fact that the 3S is a twin cam with much much more air flow than the 22R, I think its something electrical.

Which brings me to my final point. You will never know until you try it out for your self and compare the results against what you're currently feeling, you know just use the ol 'ass dyno' - the feeling of performance that maybe only you notice because you are used to the 'normal' power output from daily driving and you think it just feels better from your seat.

The best thing to do would be to use a GTech meter to gauge your performance changes, and run it for at least 2 complete tanks and compare MPG differences and see what you think is best for your engine.

And again, for those who are curious as to what is involved with this mod, I will try to see if I can post a copy of an old page from my very very old webpage-

BigMike
« Last Edit: Sep 13, 2004, 06:16:38 PM by BigMike »
2016 6-speed Manual 2GR-FKS TRD Sport Tacoma       
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Error occurred because of error.
"The worst of both worlds, the best of neither." -abnormaltoy
Things are only impossible until they are not.

toyhatsu

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #3 on: Sep 14, 2004, 03:49:52 AM »
My engine doesn't have a MAF and I live at 6,500 feet.  It burns rich and I wanted to lean it out a bit by adjusting the resistance with a potentiometer at the O2 sensor.  I guess with the 3RZ I'll just have to see how it goes and install the a/f meter anyway since I have it.  Maybe play around with spark plug heat if I need to.  Nice detailed information Mike and I would be interested in the old web page info to understand this better.  Thanks
1991 Daihatsu Rocky, 3RZ-fe, Marlin super heavey duty clutch and pressure plate, Marlin W56-C-HD, duals, Marlin twinstick, three link front with Fox AirShox, 35's, Toy axles, 5.29:1, ARB F&R etc.

blyota91 [OP]

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #4 on: Sep 14, 2004, 04:13:22 AM »
Thanks for the info, I'm a big fan of gauges so I'm still planning to get the air fuel gauge.  I've never opened up the air meter, but I have seen pics of whats in there.  Hope you can find that article, or something similar.  Thanks

Andrew
Retiring the 91
Rebuilding the 94

GrimReaper

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #5 on: Sep 14, 2004, 10:38:48 AM »
I'm trying to get mine back to right. I had multiple problems with a truck I just bought. I could not get it to idle and it's breaking up real bad mid RPMs. Most people including Marlin suspected AFM and in a way thats dead on. Other problems with the motor are throwing it off.

 Well in my stupidity I had not marked the gear. I wanted to clear some of the 195k of trash off the risistor board and I stupidly removed the retaining clip off the gear along the way and lost my base point. I Put a reman AFM on it and it wouldnt run at all because of the other problems. I basicly adjusted the AFM to compinsate for other issues. Well most of those other problems I have a handle on now and I am trying to get the AFM recalibrated and this brings me to my point.

Whenever you make a change on the AFM  you have to do it with motor off. The ECM apparently pulls a base line before the engine starts. If you try to adjust while it's running it will throw it out in left feild. I found I could adjust it while running and holding say 3k and get it to run good. Shut the engine down and might not even start back up or if it did start it would be way out again.

 I'm told most of these are Fuzzy logic systems and resettting the ECM did not seem to make a big deal BUT I have reset it multiple times recently so it may still be in a learn mode and not set itself as a result. I know on my 89 Supra if you went and reset that ECM it was VERY noticable change that it would take several days to come around on. I haven't had enough seat time to see if that will hold true on this one.

BigMike

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #6 on: Sep 14, 2004, 03:51:45 PM »
Because we dont even have this info on the forum, I've painstakening created the below table to help anyone out with the Toyota ECU Diagnostic Codes.
These are from a 4A-GE engine, and as far as I know, any other EFI 4cyl from that era (1984-1995) should use the same codes, at least the codes that Ive checked on a 87' 4Runner matched the 4A-GE codes, so hopefully these will work with all 22R-Es. Im not sure about V6s though... :dunno:

Again, just for reference, to check for engine codes, please follow these steps:

1. Battery Voltage must be 11V or more
2. Throttle valves must be fully closed (on newer engines)
3. Accessories switched off
4. Engine at operating temperature (but I've done it when its cold and it works the same)

Turn the ignition switch ON. (Do not start engine)
Short terminals TE1 and E1 of the check connector of the diagnosis connector cluster.

Getting the Diagnostic Codes:

Normal Operation: (no malfunction)
  • the light will alternatively blink ON and OFF at 0.26 second intervals.
Malfunction Codes Indication
  • In the event of a registered malfunction, the light will blink every 0.52 second. The first series of blinks will equal the 1st digit of a 2 digit code and after a 1.5 second pause, the second series of blinks will indicate the 2nd digit.
  • If there are 2 or more codes, there will be a 2.5 seconds pause between each signaled codes.
  • After all codes have flashed, there will be a 4.5 second interval and the codes will repeat until TE1 and E1 has been disconnected.
2-Trip detection logic:
  • Diagnostic Codes 20-29 are usually indicated with 2 -trip logic. This means that the ECU will need two repeated engine operational cycles, with the same problem for the code to be indicated, minimizing the false codes. The ignition must be switched OFF between the 2 successive engine operations.
And finally the Test Mode: (1989 and later ECU, with variation in models)
  • In this mode, the ECU will have increased sensing ability for malfunction detection. It can also detect starter signal circuit, and air conditioning components. The same codes also will be detected as those of the normal modes.
  • In the same manner and conditions as the normal diagnostic, short the TE2 and E1 of the diagnostic connector. Turn ignition ON to begin diagnosis in TEST mode.
  • To check that the TEST mode is operational, confirm that the warning light flashes with ignition in ON position.
  • Start the engine and drive the vehicle at or faster than 10km/h (6mph). If the speed fails to reach this the ECU will falsely report that the starter and speed sensor is malfunctioning. (code 41 and 42)
  • After test drive, short connectors TE1 and E1
  • Read diagnostic codes.
  • be sure to Remove SST from check connector when finished.
  • Warning: Test mode will not start if terminals are shorted after ignition is turned ON. Code 51 (AC compressor switch signal) is erratic by nature and will sometimes come on without malfunction.


And here are the codes:
CodeSignalDiagnosisCommon Trouble Area
12RPM Signal
  • No G or NE signal present for 2 seconds during cranking
  • Open G circuit
  • Open, short in G or NE circuit.
  • Distributor
  • ECU
13RPM signal
  • No NE signal for 50msec at 1000rpm.
  • Same as Above
14Ignition
  • No IGF signal to ECU for 4 consecutive IGT signal during engine running
  • Open/short in IGF/IGT signal from igniter to ECU
  • Igniter malfunction
  • ECU
21O2 sensor
  • Open/short in heater circuit of oxygen sensor for 0.5 seconds
    [li]Amplitude of O2 sensor reduced to 0.35-0.70V continuously for more than 60 seconds
  • O2 sensor
  • vacuum sensor
  • ECU
22H2O temperature sensor
  • no signal at THW
  • water temperature sensor
  • ECU
24Intake Air Temp sensor
  • no signal at THA
  • Intake air temp sensor
  • ECU
25A/F Lean
  • O2 sensor output in less than 0.45 volts for at least 90 seconds when O2 sensor is warmed and 1500 rpm or above.
  • open injector circuit
  • lack of fuel pressure
  • Ignition system
  • Vacuum sensor
  • O2 sensor
  • ECU
31Vacuum sensor
  • No signal at Vacuum sensor (PIM)
  • Vacuum sensor to ECU
33ISCV (Idle speed control valve)
  • Open or short in ISCV circuit
  • ISCV Valve
41Throttle Position sensor
  • No signal for 0.5 seconds or more at ignition ON. (VTA)
  • TPS
  • ECU
42Vehicle Speed Sensor
  • No speed sensor signal to ECU when loaded driving condition with engine speeds 2000 to 5000 rpm. for 8 seconds or more.
  • VSS
  • ECU
43Starter
  • No starter signal to ECU when cranking in TEST mode. Terminal STA on ECU
  • starter signal circuit
  • starter relay
  • ignition switch
52#1 Knock sensor
  • no KNK1 signal to ECU
  • knock sensor (looseness)
  • malfunctioning knk sensor
53#2 Knock sensor
  • no KNK2 signal to ECU
  • same as above
51Switch condition signal
  • Displayed when A/C is on when TE1 and E1 connected in test mode
  • A/C switch
  • Accelerator pedal, cable
  • ECU
« Last Edit: Sep 14, 2004, 04:05:58 PM by BigMike »
2016 6-speed Manual 2GR-FKS TRD Sport Tacoma       
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Error occurred because of error.
"The worst of both worlds, the best of neither." -abnormaltoy
Things are only impossible until they are not.

BigMike

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #7 on: Sep 14, 2004, 04:05:24 PM »
So here's my old webpage converted over for the forum, enjoy!

Original Creation Date: 7/9/1999
BigMike's MAF

Mass Air Flow Meter Adjustments
Since the mod of my Air-Filter, I have been told by many that with a custom air intake system the engine will respond better to adjustments done to the MAF, or Mass Air Flow meter. I have asked a couple of people how to do this and I became discouraged by their comments on how technical it is and how I should be very careful or else I will regret it. These comments stayed in my head untill I read an article concerning the adjustments of ones MAF at Stephen Gunter's webpage under http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7177/toyafmmod.html. This article changed my mind, and my car.

MAF
On many EFI's, the MAF, also known as an AFM, or an Air Box, is located between the air filter and the throttle body. What the MAF does is determines how much air is coming through the intake plumbing and into the manifold. It then relays the information over to the cars computer which then is used to regulate how much fuel is sent to the injectors, and how much is sent back to the tank.


Access
To open up the MAF, you will need a knife or a flat-head screwdriver, or something of this shape to cut through the silicon seal that is protecting the electronics inside of the MAF. At first I did not know what to expect, but when I opened it up it looked as if it had just been worked on 5 minuets before me because it was factory clean. Obvously due to the factory sealing used to avoid moisture build-up which would affect the condition of the potentiometer(spelling?).

The purpose of the MAF in detail is as follows. Inside of the MAF is a small shutter type door that can be pushed backwards and inside of the tunnel of air flow. This shutter is attatched to a gear that has a spring mechanism that will return the shutter to its original position. What happens is that when you step on your 'gas pedal' in reality, gas is not fed to the engine on our 4A-GE's. Basically what is really happening when you step on the 'gas' pedal, air is sucked into the engine. As more air is sucked into the cylinders, a stronger current of air flows through your Air Box which pushes that shutter more and more back into the MAF which turns that gear, which turns a needle on a potentiometer, that sends an increasing voltage signal to the computer, which then lets more gas get to the injectors to burn this new air. So I guess you could call it an 'Air pedal' instead of 'Gas pedal' :)

What I have done to my MAF is I have reduced the strength of the spring on the gear that is attatched to the shutter. This then lets the shutter open up more eaisly under lower air currents which tells the computer to add more gas into the cylinders because of the 'supposed' more air. This does not seemily mean that more air and gas is being burned, but it more means that the computer will sort-of assume more air then what is actually there when you floor it, and so it spins up the engine quicker because the computer is, in a way, a step ahead of the 'air pedal', if you will.


Adjusting
To adjust your MAF, you will need to first unscrew the phillips screw located at the yellow arrow. This will enable the black bracket, green, that holds the gear in place to be moved. You will then need to use a small object to push back the retainer, right at the red arrow. Once the retainer is moved away from the teeth of the gear at the red arrow, then, while holding onto the gear with your fingers, you will be able to move the gear clockwise or counter clockwise. It would be wise to make a mark with a Sharpie marker or something before making any changes so that you will be able to come back to the factory position if needed. I marked mine, but it can not be seen in the picture. The blue arrow shows the clock-style wind-up type spring. It is not hard to hold on to the gear while you adjust it. Just be carefull as to not let the spring unwind itself!


The above picture shows my mark at 6 teeth back.
According to what I have read, one should not exceed more then 5 teeth of adjustment. Currently, I have mine adjusted at 6teeth back. You will need to rotate you'r gear counter clockwise to lessen the tension of the spring on the gear. If you tighten the spring, clockwise, then I would imagine the car to run sluggishly. Good prank if you are about to race your friend and he is away from his car and you just happened to have a tube of silicon and a knife/screwdriver. hahahahahahahahahahaha


Results
As of the first day I have my gear turned counter clockwise 6 teeth. I am tempted to cut back open my silicon seal and try 8 or 9 teeth to see what happens. I dont know what my gas millage is, but I honestly do not believe that it has changed. My idle rmp's went up about 300 by moving it 6teeth, so I would imagine 10teeth to move it even more. I will change my idle rmp sometime or another...


Changes??
My car seems to rev more eaisly, but the biggest difference is that I can feel the TVIS kicking in even harder now and I really do believe that I get more power up around 6,000rpm or so..
This mod took me about 20 minuets because I tested different settings before sticking with what I have now. If I was to walk out to a vechicle to do this mod, it would take me no more than 5-10min. It is _very_ eaisy to do and if you are interested, I hope I have convinced you to make this change!!


Man I was 18 when I did that, sheesh, where has the time gone? :-\\
I cant seem to find the missing picture (4th one down).. If I find it I'll upload it.

So good luck and let me know how it goes!

Regards,
BigMike
2016 6-speed Manual 2GR-FKS TRD Sport Tacoma       
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Error occurred because of error.
"The worst of both worlds, the best of neither." -abnormaltoy
Things are only impossible until they are not.

GrimReaper

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #8 on: Sep 15, 2004, 12:20:18 PM »
Nice write up Mike. I'm sure it will help a lot of folks. Is there a way to put that in a FAQ?

Couple things of note. The codes are different on the 85 and 86. There was a revision made for the 87 year. The light blinks are actully 1-11. 11 is TPS no IDL signal as I recall. I have manage to truip most of them trying to verify components functioning. 12 is knock sensor open, 6 I think is crank postition.

There is a even Earlier version with a TPS with only three wires and diferent codes but appears to be uncommon.

ahh found the early codes. this covers both the early and late.
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html

Hehe Geiger was taking hte pictures LOL.


The AFM also changed a little in the way the stops are on the gear. That locking mechanisim is different on the 85 and 86. No screw needs to be removed. Just a flat blade screw driver. Other wise the rest of the info is Valid to those years as well.


I played with mine more last night. The more I play with it the more I have come o realize that other then the Fuel pump circuit where the arm is on resistor doesnt matter as much as how far it moves. The ECM pulls a AFM base line before starting every time. I think it then gets a base line on Idl when it sees the IDL to E2 on the TPS.

 Why this is important is I had a little issue with a hung throttle and I saw a problems others had complained of where the idle speed would go back and forth on about a 800 rpm swing when you hit the brakes. Since the throttle hung open it didn't see the IDL but it saw input from the TPS at a higher then idle Value. The ECM is also monitoring the brake light/Cruise control circuit. When it saw the brakes applied and 1800 rpm Then a load condtion without ever seeing IDL it became confused. It couldn't base like the IDL E2 circuit.

 I had done some adjustment of the arm with the allen bolt when I was messing with it to get it to run. Well to get it to run I had to loose up the spring and it lost the needed tension to hit the contacts for the pump. I readjusted that and it started just fine and other then a little more snap in the reaction speed of the engine like you noted above it acts the same at steady cruise and idle. So worry less about where and more about how far it moves in relation to the amount the throttle opens. It will adjust it's refference points once it see Ig and once it sees the TPS register IDL.

 I am hoping to get with my buddy soon and hook my truck to his computer. He has a exhaust gas anaylizer. I'll try to play with it a little and see if I can notice any mixture changes at idle and say 3,000 RPM. 

sirdeuce

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #9 on: Jun 04, 2013, 12:35:06 PM »
Kinda late getting in on this post, but a couple more little bits of info....... First, the MAF adjustments may tend to be a bit excessive in some tuning attempts. For some minute tuning steps a potentiometer inline with the inlet air temp or water temp sensors can allow changes that are more easily adjustable, and even mounted as cab accessable for on the fly tuning. Mike brought up the MAF on the MR2 as an example. With the MR2 EFI the cam duration can be taken to the mid 260's before anything needs to be adjusted. Possibly, the 22RE is safe to this level as well. Personnally, I would play with the fuel pressure before I would play with the electronics. You mentioned a cam with 260 X .430 specs, and the exhaust mods, but has any portwork  been done? A 260 cam will work with a stock head, but the effects will be diminished without supporting work, reducing the need for any big changes in the tuning. Not saying not to make adjustments, just use a lot of caution with any actions in tuning the EFI.
Sure it'll fit........ Just needs a little brute finesse.

BigMike

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #10 on: Jun 04, 2013, 02:19:27 PM »
sirdeuce,

Your high level of expert advice is a breath of fresh air. You should start an introduction thread (click here) so everyone can get to know you. Speaking from a personal experience with sirdeuce, I believe everyone in the Toyota Rock Crawling community will be hard pressed to find your rival when it comes to tuning and building performance into R-series engines, amongst others like the A-series.

Would be very cool to see you frequenting our forum :beerchug:

Regards,
BigMike
2016 6-speed Manual 2GR-FKS TRD Sport Tacoma       
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Error occurred because of error.
"The worst of both worlds, the best of neither." -abnormaltoy
Things are only impossible until they are not.

sirdeuce

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #11 on: Jun 04, 2013, 05:23:39 PM »
C'mon Mikey, you know I'm just a bag of hot air. :flamer:
Sure it'll fit........ Just needs a little brute finesse.

BigMike

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #12 on: Jun 04, 2013, 07:22:37 PM »
C'mon Mikey, you know I'm just a bag of hot air. :flamer:
I'm hoping you'll start floating away so I won't have to pay you for the TRD S/C Header :yupyup:
2016 6-speed Manual 2GR-FKS TRD Sport Tacoma       
1981 36-speed 511:1 3RZ-FE Rock Crawler
1987 6-speed Supercharged 4A-GZE MR2
Error occurred because of error.
"The worst of both worlds, the best of neither." -abnormaltoy
Things are only impossible until they are not.

sirdeuce

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Re: Air Flow Meter Tuning
« Reply #13 on: Jun 04, 2013, 09:32:28 PM »
Won't happen, too much lead in my foot.
Sure it'll fit........ Just needs a little brute finesse.

 
 
 
 
 

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