Author Topic: Hydro assist on the cheap (Read 306770 times)

Bazzi · « **Reply #240 on:** Feb 20, 2008, 02:16:26 PM »

thank you finally

I found out tho when I tightened it that you can feal how much, with moving the box and screwing with the bolt.... when I rebuilted my box I was impressed with the way the output shaft is sealed, with the rubber o-ring, the teflon ring and probably some other parts..... any way... it´s a long time ago. my memmory isn´t all that good.....

robrub00 · « **Reply #241 on:** Feb 25, 2008, 10:59:23 PM »

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=138_176_185&products_id=512
im looking at this pump. i rodered the ram from surplus centers. anyone know what pully i should egt from pcs

is it this one?
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=157_50&products_id=262
or this
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/product_info.php?cPath=157_50&products_id=265
i thinmk it would be the 2nd one but not sure??

robrub00 · « **Reply #242 on:** Mar 08, 2008, 09:00:22 AM »

how do i route the lines. i just got my package from surpluscenter and i got a tc pump from autozone for 64 dollers. i need i think 1 fitting though!!! does this look right?

freds40 · « **Reply #243 on:** Mar 09, 2008, 04:50:46 PM »

Nope! From the pump it will go into the gear box. From the gearbox you will have a factory line back to the cooler, and then to the reservoir. The 2 ports you will add to the box go to either side of the ram for steering.

DTB · « **Reply #244 on:** Mar 10, 2008, 07:05:49 AM »

dont quote me....but I think there is a diagram on this thread somewhere...im just too lazy too look for it

DTB · « **Reply #245 on:** May 26, 2008, 12:22:01 PM »

Just FYI, Ballistic Fab just came out with 1.25" clamps for your tie rod mount

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/OD-Tube-Clamp_p_21-1474.html

Volcom · « **Reply #246 on:** May 27, 2008, 10:21:27 AM »

Quote from: DIRTOYBOY on May 26, 2008, 12:22:01 PM

Just FYI, Ballistic Fab just came out with 1.25" clamps for your tie rod mount

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/OD-Tube-Clamp_p_21-1474.html

Good find!! I think I'll order one up.

Scarface06 · « **Reply #247 on:** May 28, 2008, 08:26:43 PM »

Well, I'm ready to order all the stuff from Surplus Center. Is there anything different I should do? Is there anything that you guys regret doing??

ulfr · « **Reply #248 on:** Aug 08, 2008, 06:15:41 AM »

G'day folks. First of all I'd like to thank for all the useful information in this thread that's helped me alot!

Anywho, I have a problem with my current hydro-assist setup and I was wondering if any of you have had this situation.

I have an '93 TD 4Runner with a steering gear from the '88 Land cruiser 70.
I recently installed a hydro-assist jack, and in the first had no problems with it, save that I felt it too hard to turn the wheel even tho I had the ram, but I believed (at that time) that it was because I didn't increased the flow and pressure on the steering pump.

Soon after the ram was installed I noticed a leak around all the engine room, it was ATF fluid. I thougth my pump seals were givin up on me so I didn't thought 'bout it until I'd get the spare parts. Not so long after that I noticed my ram wasn't working any longer either...
I thought maybe I'd need to enlarge the reservor.

Then I started tearing the pump apart, but noticed that the leakage was from the reservor, or around that area. Replaced all of the hoses in the steering hydro and as well, enlarged the reservor. I increased the flow and the pressure abit too. Checked the steering gear for leakage, and as well checked if the ram was leaking or not. Everything turned to be okay.

Then yesterday's eve' I started bleedin' the system, but noticed that if I turn right, the ATF fluid starts spillin' out of my reservor, but if I turn left, the level lowers and it's almost empty, thought it would just need more bleedin' but if I start the engine, the same happens, there also seems to be air in the fluid, but as I keep bleedin' the system, the more comes up from the reservor when I turn right!
When I shut the engine off, things go wild and the reservor spills up almost 1/4 of a gallon from the reservor.

Also, the ram is not workin' a single bit.
But there seems to be comin' fluid out of the steering gear to the jack, just not enough pressure. Air in the system I'd assume. BUT I've already drained air from the ram, and think I got most of the air out of the lines to the ram.

Could it be that I had put the high pressure line in the wrong hole of the steering gear? I refered to my Max Ellery's repair manual 'bout Land Cruisers, includin' 70 series, so I guess it must be correct!

Or what I think that's more likely, something is gone bad in the steering gear it self! Like leakin' between vains?
How far inside is it supposed to be drilled in the "D" of TOYDA? Does anyone know? This box was tapped at a professional workshop, but I'm startin' to think they might have messed things up... But that again, wouldn't explain why the ram worked for the first time I tested it!
Or maybe this is a very simple problem that I just can't see the true solution for... Any help is apreciated.

I'm sorry for the bad english and hard-to-understand writeup.. I'm tired and pissed off because of this neverending story of bad-steering!

With best regards, Ulfr.

DTB · « **Reply #249 on:** Aug 08, 2008, 07:01:13 AM »

How did you bleed the ram and lines? Did you let them hang down?

Did you drill the pump restrictor out?

Are you running a larger reservoir?

Are you running a fluid cooler?

Do you have a newer style box with the bleeder screw on top of the box?

To me it sounds like there is still air in the system.

ulfr · « **Reply #250 on:** Aug 08, 2008, 08:19:57 AM »

Quote from: DIRTOYBOY on Aug 08, 2008, 07:01:13 AM

How did you bleed the ram and lines? Did you let them hang down?

Did you drill the pump restrictor out?

Are you running a larger reservoir?

Are you running a fluid cooler?

Do you have a newer style box with the bleeder screw on top of the box?

To me it sounds like there is still air in the system.

I filled the ram with ATF fluid, then let the lines hang upside until there was abit of fluid comin' through, then closed the line (one at a time) with my finger until there was abit of pressure and tried letting the fluid out, then I halfway attached 'em to the ram and let the fluid go down abit, and finally tightened 'em when I thought most of the air was out. Maybe I'm doin' something wrong there.

Yes, I drilled the restrictor out. (actually punched the middle out of the bushing when I was tryin' to get it out) so that shouldn't be a problem.
Also increased the pressure alittle bit (removed one shim)

And yes, I'm running a larger reservor. But the extra reservor is next to my cooler, below the original fluid reservor. Maybe that could be a problem?

Fluid cooler, well, not really a cooler but something in that direction, my cooler isn't here yet but I "arranged" the pipes so it would be easy to fit it next time when I have time for it.

I have the adjust screw on top of the box, but if I loosen the nut, no fluid ever comes out... That kinda freaks me abit out because I think maybe there's something wrong with the box.
But I don't have the "brake bleeder bolt" if you are talkin' 'bout that, like the older style boxes have IIRC.

Maybe I should try on bleedin' it. How long time did you take in bleedin' the system?
I think I spent almost an hour tryin' to get the air off.. But maybe the extra giant reservor might slow things down.

With best regards, Ulfr

P.S. Is it normal for the fluid Reservor to increase it's level when turning right, and then again lower it's level when I turn left?

Thanks for the reply.

Bazzi · « **Reply #251 on:** Aug 08, 2008, 03:38:12 PM »

would be a lot quicker to reply on icelandic huh....

1. what is the highest point of the system (the reservoir should be the highest)

2. what I dit to the reservoir was I cut it in half, removed the net or what to call it and everything else that was in there that slowed the flow down, I weldet a exchaust pipe (same size as the reservoir) as an spacer to make the reservoir a lot bigger, but first I bought a magned that I dropped in there (I just had it hang on one of the walls,) it really helps the reservoir if the inlet pipe points a litle to the side of the reservoir making a nice vortex.

3. I noticed that also when I was getting my setup ready. (the full/empty---right/left)

4. when the D. in toyoda is tapped they just go through the side of the box, the wain on top of the box is the one that you should be worried about.
or where is the second tapping?

5. I was told that you could just empty out the box by turning left and right. and so I dit, with the pitman arm removed I turned the wheel as far as it went on each side and the ram followed (ram also disconnected).

6. the line running from the pump to the box (pressure line) I drilled that one out a litle bit. and the line running from the box to the cooler, shouldn´t have any coaningns (brass thingy) at all...

this should give you something to think about.
you could also call me if you keep hitting walls. s: 8400952
or e-mail or pm me.
with regards.
Bassi

ulfr · « **Reply #252 on:** Aug 08, 2008, 04:22:29 PM »

Quote from: Bazzi on Aug 08, 2008, 03:38:12 PM

would be a lot quicker to reply on icelandic huh....

1. what is the highest point of the system (the reservoir should be the highest)

2. what I dit to the reservoir was I cut it in half, removed the net or what to call it and everything else that was in there that slowed the flow down, I weldet a exchaust pipe (same size as the reservoir) as an spacer to make the reservoir a lot bigger, but first I bought a magned that I dropped in there (I just had it hang on one of the walls,) it really helps the reservoir if the inlet pipe points a litle to the side of the reservoir making a nice vortex.

3. I noticed that also when I was getting my setup ready. (the full/empty---right/left)

4. when the D. in toyoda is tapped they just go through the side of the box, the wain on top of the box is the one that you should be worried about.
or where is the second tapping?

5. I was told that you could just empty out the box by turning left and right. and so I dit, with the pitman arm removed I turned the wheel as far as it went on each side and the ram followed (ram also disconnected).

6. the line running from the pump to the box (pressure line) I drilled that one out a litle bit. and the line running from the box to the cooler, shouldn´t have any coaningns (brass thingy) at all...

this should give you something to think about.
you could also call me if you keep hitting walls. s: 8400952
or e-mail or pm me.
with regards.
Bassi

1. That I probably need to change, I just made a bigger reservor in the grille, wasn't quite sure what would happen when I grinded the reservor in parts.
But so it is okay to just remove the net, that's a good thing, then the next step will be changing that, and just addin' my cooler in the front. Probably helps abit. I think I have a pipe that fits the reservor in my workshop so that shouldn't stop me.

3. Okay, that's a VERY good thing to know, as I was goin' nuts over that thing, thought my box was cracked or something worse.

4. It's in the front of the box. I went to Stal & Stansar to get it tapped as I wasn't fully sure of what I was doin' and didn't quite have the time for it either.

(I'm a wuss, I know I know... :/ )

5. That's what I've heard, and read on this thread (aswell as others)

6. Ya, that's the same as I did I assume. But of course, the pump in 1KZ-T is gear driven, a little bit different casing from the belt driven casing.

And my god how I'm happy to see your reply! (I was seriously considerin' callin' you last evening when I was hitting these walls, lol. )
And yes, it would be abit quicker to answere this in Icelandic, hehe.

So end conclusion is that I should remove the "extra" reservor I made, and just cut the other one apart and extend it. Will try that next monday when I get back to the rig.

Bazzi · « **Reply #253 on:** Aug 09, 2008, 02:13:07 AM »

It´s ok to remove the net in the reservoir, but then you have to fit some magnet inside the box instead. to catsh the deprish if there´s any...

I don´t have a cooler except for that pipe thingy that´s stock... I only have a huge reservoir. and I basicly filled it at first then had the steering spill out the rest. and kept the fluid level there....

colonelangus · « **Reply #254 on:** Nov 24, 2008, 01:57:47 PM »

just got my hydro stuff in the mail.nice write up have it bookmarked for reference..

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #255 on:** Dec 03, 2008, 12:25:31 PM »

oh man i can't wait to try this out!!

4XFlyin · « **Reply #256 on:** Jan 25, 2009, 09:41:50 PM »

Quote from: DirToyBoy on May 26, 2008, 12:22:01 PM

Just FYI, Ballistic Fab just came out with 1.25" clamps for your tie rod mount

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/OD-Tube-Clamp_p_21-1474.html

I just picked one of these up from Ballistic to use on my Marlin rod. I will post up when I weld it up.

DTB · « **Reply #257 on:** Jan 25, 2009, 09:47:42 PM »

Quote from: 4X Flyin on Jan 25, 2009, 09:41:50 PM

I just picked one of these up from Ballistic to use on my Marlin rod. I will post up when I weld it up.

Please do! I still havent gotten around to installing mine

854RUN · « **Reply #258 on:** Jan 26, 2009, 12:39:38 PM »

Just ordered my parts from surpluscenter last night 120.00(106.00 in parts) shipped

. Has any one used the tranny cooler on the bottom of the rad... i was thinking about trying that??

Ramrod · « **Reply #259 on:** Jan 26, 2009, 12:43:52 PM »

anything helps and a ton of people run no cooler at all so that should be pretty good, if you have an issue throw in a cooler

DTB · « **Reply #260 on:** Jan 26, 2009, 01:13:36 PM »

U can pick up a nice flex a lite cooler for about 30 bucks at summit with hoses, brackets and everything to mount it

854RUN · « **Reply #261 on:** Jan 26, 2009, 06:54:50 PM »

I actually have 2 unused trans cooler but i also have a unused trans cooler built in so why not and if that dont work i will throw a trans cooler on. I cant wait for my hydor, it dose not even feel like i have power steering. O and THANK YOU freds40 for saving me 100.00 if you are ever in CO i owe you a beer!

DTB · « **Reply #262 on:** Jan 26, 2009, 07:13:46 PM »

The cooler on the rad is STOCK...not very effective for large tires combined with the extra work to push the ram (although the ram and the lines do add some extra capacity to the system)... it will work...but your steering pump will thank you if you add a cooler...if you have it..add it....it only takes a couple minutes to install....

EXTRA capacity is never a bad thing....the whole system will stay a lot cooler

854RUN · « **Reply #263 on:** Jan 27, 2009, 06:49:19 AM »

Ok that what i was really wanting to hear "STOCK...not very effective" i will leave it plugged and throw a trans cooler on

abeer · « **Reply #264 on:** Jan 27, 2009, 04:37:15 PM »

Alright- I feel like an idiot because this thread is full of- "It worked great for me!"s. I need some help figuring it out. I have been bleeding the system forever- no longer getting bubbles in the fluid. However, the ram only works when extending and it's SUPER slow. I drilled the restrictor, added a cooler and made the res bigger. Did anyone have a problem like this- even when bleeding? Any ideas? I read back through the thread and nobody seemed to have this. Thanks for any ideas.

All_Set · « **Reply #265 on:** Jan 28, 2009, 09:54:46 AM »

Quote from: abeer on Jan 27, 2009, 04:37:15 PM

Alright- I feel like an idiot because this thread is full of- "It worked great for me!"s. I need some help figuring it out. I have been bleeding the system forever- no longer getting bubbles in the fluid. However, the ram only works when extending and it's SUPER slow. I drilled the restrictor, added a cooler and made the res bigger. Did anyone have a problem like this- even when bleeding? Any ideas? I read back through the thread and nobody seemed to have this. Thanks for any ideas.

What exactly did you buy? What did you drill the restrictor out too? Are you lines plumbed correctly? (If you get them backwards, it's hard/immpossible to turn)

abeer · « **Reply #266 on:** Jan 28, 2009, 11:19:16 AM »

I got all the surplus center parts, added a small tranny cooler from Autozone in the return line, and increased the reservoir with a piece of exhaust pipe. I drilled the restrictor to 13/64 and bled it by turning the wheel back and forth with the tires off the ground, turning the engine on, steering till it got frothy waiting and repeating. I used the trail gear picture to hook up the lines and they are correct. The ram isnt bolted in place yet- its still hanging with the fittings on the ram pointing up. When I drilled it and tapped it it was clearly in the vein and I think I cleaned like a champ. Im stumped.

DTB · « **Reply #267 on:** Jan 28, 2009, 11:50:46 AM »

mine did the same as you described.....slow moving..extending only....i got frustrated after bleeding forever (using the bleeder valve on the box itself too ...did u bleed the box?)

left it overnight.....

came out the next day...bled for a minute or two and it worked....

seems it was just a bunch of air bubbles

abeer · « **Reply #268 on:** Jan 28, 2009, 12:04:58 PM »

I'm on day 3 of bleeding, and I no longer get bubbles. Should I just keep trying to bleed?

abeer · « **Reply #269 on:** Jan 29, 2009, 06:35:36 PM »

Well, 4 was the magic number. Today the ram decided to start working after bleeding for the millionth time. Sweet cant wait to try it out!

- Sales Employee -

freds40 [OP]

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