Author Topic: How to make a weber climb a hill. (Read 96143 times)

dropthattaco · « **on:** Jun 15, 2008, 09:30:31 PM »

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Ok, so I have a Weber 32/36 DGAV on my 81 4x4. The Weber works great on the 22r, and picked up a bit of pep and the driveability is loads better than stock. Even gets 18 MPG much to my surprise. Unfortunately, the Weber really does not like going up hills. Deciding this was unacceptable, I took it upon myself to remedy this situation. The problem is the location of the bowl vent. When the truck tilts back, the fuel spills into the air horn, making the truck stall. To fix this there are three things you need to do. First, make sure the float level is AT MOST spec height, preferrably 1-2mm lower. Second, install a fuel pressure regulator. I use this one:

and it's set to 2psi. NO MORE.
Third, you need to relocate the fuel bowl vent. This is the hardest part, and the one I'm going to focus on.
To relocate the bowl vent:
Remove the top of the carb.

You will notice a couple of rectangles that pass through the top. One of these is the the bowl vent. It is the one closest to the fuel inlet, furthest from the choke tower. You will need to plug it. I used JB Weld. Here:

And here it is after the JB weld:

Now you will need to make a vent to replace the one you plugged. Luckily there is a blanked port that isn't used on these carbs. Here's what you do.

Drill some holes in the port to allow the vapors out. You will be able to see your drill bit through the hole in the end. Then you will need to vent the vapor somewhere. The fitting in the end is 3/8" inside diameter, so I bought some copper tube from ACE hardware and hammered it in.

and from the top:

Then I routed it to the stock carb charcoal canister (under the battery) using 3/8" fuel hose.

And here's the finished product:

Runs up hills like a champ now. Good luck!!!

kneedownnate · « **Reply #1 on:** Jun 15, 2008, 10:35:29 PM »

Interesting. I need to re set my float anyway, so I may as well do this while I'm in there.

THK Matt · « **Reply #2 on:** Jun 18, 2008, 02:31:03 PM »

oh man, looks like ill have this mod to do.

TheCookieMonster · « **Reply #3 on:** Jun 18, 2008, 03:02:40 PM »

nice little write up

...i think i need to try this out

82 HiLux · « **Reply #4 on:** Jun 21, 2008, 08:08:49 PM »

thank you! that is what i have been looking for! i saw how crazy the vent tube is on my weber 38, and i have seen the unused port on the outside of the bowl. and even better yet i work at freakin ace hardware

kneedownnate · « **Reply #5 on:** Jun 21, 2008, 08:39:01 PM »

I already have random legths of 3/8 copper tubing at my disposal too

dropthattaco · « **Reply #6 on:** Jun 25, 2008, 05:56:54 PM »

Quote from: 82 HiLux on Jun 21, 2008, 08:08:49 PM

thank you! that is what i have been looking for! i saw how crazy the vent tube is on my weber 38, and i have seen the unused port on the outside of the bowl. and even better yet i work at freakin ace hardware

No prob man, try it, and tell me if it works on a 38 as well! Good luck!

82 HiLux · « **Reply #7 on:** Jun 26, 2008, 12:36:29 AM »

so far its worked out, just need to let the JB weld dry and find a big hill somewhere and try it out!
check it out, its on my build thread which has a link right below

All_Set · « **Reply #8 on:** Jul 15, 2008, 03:13:41 PM »

Might be interesting to note. These same 3 mods will improve the stock toy carb as well. (As far as running angles.)

On the Aisen's.

Just add hose here.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1826135&postcount=37

THK Matt · « **Reply #9 on:** Jul 15, 2008, 03:27:32 PM »

Quote from: All_Set on Jul 15, 2008, 03:13:41 PM

Might be interesting to note. These same 3 mods will improve the stock toy carb as well. (As far as running angles.)

is it done in the same spots?
does the Aisin look just like the weber?

82 HiLux · « **Reply #10 on:** Jul 15, 2008, 04:02:25 PM »

the aisin looks nothing like the weber. but if you take it apart its pretty easy to figure out. the vent tubes for the float bowl are at the top of the float bowl. if there is an unused port on the toyota carb, you will be able to see it. and obviously the float is adjustable. the weber and aisin may look different but they are still both just 2 barrel carburetors

Burl Earl · « **Reply #11 on:** Jul 16, 2008, 10:50:35 PM »

well since tim did it i got to also. ha ha! we both got 1st gen yodas, his is an 82 i got an 83. HA HA!

i got the same carb as you. looks easy enough.

82 HiLux · « **Reply #12 on:** Aug 03, 2008, 03:27:41 PM »

a little update for this: i used the same fuel pressure regulator from summit as shown in the first part of this thread, and it SUCKS. i dont know whats wrong with it but its a cheap piece of garbage. if anyone is gonna buy one DONT get that one from summit. its the only one they have for really low psi, but again, its GARBAGE. waste of 25$, and not only that but the ammount of trouble it caused me added up to a big loss in money

ZUKIMON · « **Reply #13 on:** Aug 10, 2008, 01:20:26 PM »

Quote from: 82 HiLux on Aug 03, 2008, 03:27:41 PM

a little update for this: i used the same fuel pressure regulator from summit as shown in the first part of this thread, and it SUCKS. i dont know whats wrong with it but its a cheap piece of garbage. if anyone is gonna buy one DONT get that one from summit. its the only one they have for really low psi, but again, its GARBAGE. waste of 25$, and not only that but the ammount of trouble it caused me added up to a big loss in money

I come from Samurai's and we too have been through these POS, FPR's (more of a flow reducer) when installing the GSX-R motorcycle and Harley Davidson carbs on the 1.3's. They leak, don't reduce pressure and will most definelty fail on you when you don't want them too. $:-\$ \\\ What we came up with was the Holley regulator from most any parts store. They seem to work very well and can be had just about anywhere.

Now for the write up.....I have a 1st gen, '83, and a Weber on it as well. 8) My trouble isn't going up hills, rather I can't come down them without a little bogging down. This is a common problem with the Webers. You can mount them one way and kill the climb, or the other way and kill the decent.

They are awesome for the power and highway driving though. I have been told by a local racer that he can build me a 22R carb that will bust the Weber, and make it run without the factory electrical conections. He said something about pulling out the idle control valve and cutting the end off it and putting it back in for the idle problems without electrics. I'll give this mod of yours a shot and if it doesn't work, I'll have the 22R carb worked.

82 HiLux · « **Reply #14 on:** Aug 11, 2008, 07:01:38 PM »

well who the heck wants factory electrical connections on their carburetor? i sure dont! they make webers with electric chokes, water chokes and manual chokes, i went with electric

ZUKIMON · « **Reply #15 on:** Aug 12, 2008, 01:49:23 PM »

Quote from: 82 HiLux on Aug 11, 2008, 07:01:38 PM

well who the heck wants factory electrical connections on their carburetor? i sure dont! they make webers with electric chokes, water chokes and manual chokes, i went with electric

That's exactly what I'm saying. I don't want anything electrical on my carb other than the choke, and I ain't totally crazy about those. ;D

GJToyotabug · « **Reply #16 on:** Aug 20, 2008, 09:21:12 PM »

wow this will come in handy on my soon to be new build

kneedownnate · « **Reply #17 on:** Aug 30, 2008, 10:27:12 PM »

Mine has a water choke, but in all honesty I don't care for it, it doesn't back down on it's own like the electric chokes I've used. No biggie though, I just let it stay on high idle for a few minutes then blip the throttle to drop it. I need to do this mod soon before I get the truck running again!

coods · « **Reply #18 on:** Aug 31, 2008, 10:23:40 AM »

i have a stock toy carb on mine still and since it is in a Datsun i don't have any of the stock Toyota wiring hooked up to the carb and it runs fine. have every single vacuum line plugged also. only have two lines for the vacuum advance. but I'm having random problems when I'm wheeling were it wont want to run unless i choke it out. then it will start running fine again. this mod for the weber looks like the perfect solution. only reason i have not switched yet is because of the flooding out problem with them now i have no reason not to.

how do they compare to the stock with this mod. as in steep inclines and such. i did the line on the stock carb so never really had a problem with it on hill climbs

kneedownnate · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 18, 2008, 10:21:58 PM »

You know, I just finally got around to doing this mod and I noticed a difference in our carbs. Where you had to pound the tubing in, mine has a fitting threaded in. I'd capped it off so long ago that I'd completely forgot it was there, but now all I need to do is run a hose back to the charcoal canister and I'll be set

I also noticed the paper gasket had walked out a little and doesn't look like it was sealing at all

I hate to break into my backup rebuild kit for just one gasket, but I don't really feel like making one of these from scratch either. It's just too dainty for me to do a good job.

82 HiLux · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 20, 2008, 12:35:42 PM »

you dont really pound the 3/8ths tubing in, the top of the carburetor isnt very strong. you have to like twist it and work it in there nice and tight. i used red thread locker on it and it holds it rock solid. make sure you update us with how it works

kneedownnate · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 20, 2008, 08:11:29 PM »

Will do, I just installed the engine in the truck tonight! Another thing I noticed, something I'd never paid any notice to, is that attached to that fitting was a hose going to the charcoal canister already

I was one step from completing this mod and didn't even know it!

Here's a pic of how my water choke is set up, though I noticed the hoses kinda hitting the firewall when I installed the engine. I'll start by trimming 1" off each hose until they just barely pull away from the wall.

82 HiLux · « **Reply #22 on:** Sep 20, 2008, 10:33:58 PM »

does it open and close your choke based on the coolant temperature? thats pretty cool.

dhambley112 · « **Reply #23 on:** Sep 24, 2008, 09:25:52 AM »

Quote from: 82 HiLux on Sep 20, 2008, 10:33:58 PM

does it open and close your choke based on the coolant temperature? thats pretty cool.

yeah it does i think

kneedownnate · « **Reply #24 on:** Oct 11, 2008, 08:05:42 PM »

Yea it does, but it's never backed down on it's own like an electric choke. I've actually been considering snagging an electric choke and rigging it up to simplify things, but it's probably fine. I usually just go out and start the truck on high idle before I leave, go in and get my stuff ready and come back out in a few minutes and bat the throttle to knock it down to idle.

MikeBoyle · « **Reply #25 on:** Nov 30, 2008, 08:12:23 PM »

Thanks for the tip. The '80 I just picked up has a Weber on it and it needs all the help it can get until I can afford to swap it out.

82 HiLux · « **Reply #26 on:** Dec 01, 2008, 11:01:18 PM »

dont swap out the weber, fix it! webers are great, what would you swap it out for? a stock toyota carburetor?

wakkjobb · « **Reply #27 on:** Dec 16, 2008, 07:38:01 PM »

Good thread; I put a Weber on my girl's 79 that has an 85 22R in it and it's been pretty good. I was thinking it was the jets causing some bogging/sputtering on the inclines. Plus we're in Colorado around 6500' elevation, what are the other high altitude folks running for their carbs? And what about timing?

Total newbie

Dan

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #28 on:** Dec 16, 2008, 08:58:34 PM »

6500

wakkjobb · « **Reply #29 on:** Dec 17, 2008, 05:50:26 PM »

yeah, about 6500' around town but we have taken it up to Leadville and over Weston Pass (12,000 feet) with no problems. I just want to make sure everything's where it should be for optimum performance and the like.

Dan

dropthattaco [OP]

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