Topic: BigMike's Big Project

[toyhatsu]

BigMike,

Hope that this is what you were wanting....

[BigMike [OP]]

dang, that thing is REALLY LONG. When ever you get a chance, could you measure the #4 pipe length from the header flange to the piviot point. It doesnt have to be exact, just give me an idea of how long the header basically is. Then I can see at that length, just how it might fit in my setup.


Im sure that that header Must drop the torque power band some. The length is much longer then the stock manifold, which is rated to peak its torque at 4,800rpm. But I wonder how flat the stock torque curve is. Probabely the peak power would drop a bit, but the bottom end torque would definately be improved....

Thanks again Toyhatsu.
BigMike

[BigMike [OP]]

Wednesday,


Ok guys, the engine's done. Well, Im 90% confident that its done. I put in another night and wired in the fuel pump and sender, attached all of the stock intake parts (for now), added some coolant (haven't hooked up any fans yet), and began to trace all ground wires and make sure the OCR is working with Ignition ON.

Im still working with the wires, I think im missing a ground somewhere, but its simple to trace as I know its in the cab and their are only so many plugs there.

I powered up the fuel pump (manually) and it works!! So the junkyard gamble paid off. It's really quiet too, so Im sure I'll get many years out of it.

So tomorrow night I will be taking a 5 gal. tank to the gas station accross the street, and will be serving my 3RZ a delicious beverage and get it fired up for the first time.

As for the exhaust, I've got the CAT installed but I haven't bought a muffler yet. Anyone want to sell me a used 2.25" 3-chamber (50-series) Flowmaster muffler, or can anyone get a great deal on Flowmaster mufflers?? If so let me know.

Be sure to stop back here late late tomorrow night for some videos!! HOPEFULLY!!!!!!!


BigMike

[WHITE_TRASH]

Isnt that funny Ive got a very slightly used 50 series sitting in the shop.

[ifssucks]

ive got my 22r out and im ready to hang the 2.7, but im wondering if my oil pan is going to clear the front diff and still be able to close the hood. im not too concerned about the height, but if the oil pan doesnt clear ill have to put a lift on it or modify the pan. i dont really have the money for a kit even with my employee discount. should i replace the whole wire harness with the tacoma harness.
also any ideas for an axle i can use with a driver side pumpkin so i can have my 4 w d back instead of 2wd?

[BigMike [OP]]

Isnt that funny Ive got a very slightly used 50 series sitting in the shop.

Dang you WT, You are like a "I want that parts warehouse"

I really need to tank a truck up their and have a "all you can carry" parts collecting spree!


So what do you want for that muffler? And is it a 2.25"?

Also, WT, I still need an EFI throttle cable. Any should work from 1985-1995. Im gonna contact a couple parts yards today, but if you want to have my $$ instead of them, then you better let me know.

ive got my 22r out and im ready to hang the 2.7, but im wondering if my oil pan is going to clear the front diff and still be able to close the hood. im not too concerned about the height, but if the oil pan doesnt clear ill have to put a lift on it or modify the pan. i dont really have the money for a kit even with my employee discount. should i replace the whole wire harness with the tacoma harness.
also any ideas for an axle i can use with a driver side pumpkin so i can have my 4 w d back instead of 2wd?

Hey ifssucks, thanks for the reply.

If your 3RZ came out of a Tacoma, then use the part numbers that Toyhatsu has posted, making sure to use his corrected oil pan part number. You'll need a T100 2WD oil pan to clear your diff.

Dispite the fact that the 3RZ shares the same stroke as the 22R(E,TE), it is a bit taller. So yes even with the T100 oil pan, it does come pretty close. However, your body is a 2nd gen and its nose is a bit longer than mine. Make sure when you create your engine mounts, that you get the engine placed as far rear ward as physically possible. SERIOUSLY, this is Imparative. On my setup, I could have moved my engine back another 1/2", and that would allow me to run the stock radiator fan, and would also get the oil pan sump more out of the way of the top of the diff. Actually, My engine mounts are pretty wide, and I've been thinking about drilling a 2nd set of holes about half an inch back and relocating my engine back just a tad. The reason my engine is where it is now, is because we lined up the shifter holes just perfect. So if I move the engine back, I'll need to oval out my shift holes, and of course this is not an issue.

So please make sure that, whoever is thinking about this conversion, that you make sure to place the engine as close to the firewall as comfortably possible!

Speaking directly about the clearance, you're really only going to have 4 or 5" MAX clearance with a stock suspension setup between the oil pan and your diff, so it might be a concern. Just build some bump stops to limit your up travel.

Now why wouldn't you want to use your stock right hand side Toyota front axle? You're going to use the W59 bellhousing in front of a W56 and a RF1A, right?!? Just keep your stock transfercase setup and keep your 4WD! That's what I've done-

About your wiring harness, I think it would be a whole lot eaiser if you used the Tacoma harness all the way into your cabin, and then combine your Hilux cabin wires with the Tacoma wires. I retained my head lights/blinker/horn/etc front wiring from my 81 truck, and then I will be doing 3 combinations of my 81 wiring with a 90 interior wiring with a T100 interior wiring. I cant wait!!

Regards,
BigMike

[88runner]

gald to see you've got something done BigMike. looking good

[ifssucks]

i apreciate the help mike. i just got the motor hung inside the engine compartment today. it fit perfecty on the origanl mount  and the oil pan clears the diff but not the steering linkage. i got the motor as a complete drivetrain, trany t case and all. i wanted to use the tacoma transmission cuz its got about 110,000 less miles on it and it came all in one piece with the motor. but when i lowered it in i really didnt pay enough attention to the space in front of th motor. do you think my 22r radiator will be ok for this motor. i had a carburated motor so i dont have a w56 tranny. ill be ok with 2wd until i can afford a straight axle conversion. id like to buy the one you guys sell at M.C. but i dont have enough ducketts. unless you can whole sale it out to me at desert rat. which is who i work for. when might it be possible to reach you at M.C.? i would like to mount an electric fan setup if i could. maybe it would give me a little more room? if i can find a decent deal on a w56, being i have two trannys i can part with, ill probably use tha to simplify things. please keep the advise coming. by the way how far along are you on your swap now? thanks again.

[BigMike [OP]]

well guys, I am at the shop right now and I just wanted to let everyone know that I GOT MY TRUCK RUNNING!!!!!!!!!



I will post some pics and a video later tonight when I get back home.


CYA
MIKE

[brainlessfool]

Oh did you now? well I think that's






















                                GRRRRRRREAT !

[SWAMPER]

Uhm yeah Mike thats pretty nifty 

[BigMike [OP]]

Hey guys, WWWWWWWUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As you've read in my previous post, My 3RZ is Alive. Two months and 5 days later, it runs.

The trouble with my Opening Circuit Relay became a potentially humongus disaster as I found out tonight that NO EFI circuits were operating. I checked every ground and I was perplexed. Totally bamboozled.

Then I used the KISS discipline (keep it simple stupid) and looked for something obvious and I noticed that there were two missing plugs in the engine compartment's fuse box. I thought 'Holy Crap' Im missing part of the wiring harness!!!! @#&@#*&#$*&$%(@* My only option was to check all of the plugs that I did have for a matching plug, and found them in the interior! I somehow carried some engine bay wires into the cabin and didnt realize it.

So once I plugged those in, boom! everything lit up and all systems were powered. Awesome

So I put in 5 gal of 76's finest and attempted the first crank with fuel. It cranked and cranked and then it fired up (!!!!!!) but then quickly died. I then cranked it again and it wouldnt start. After messing around a bit, I tried it again, and it fired up again, but then died just as it tried to idle. So I thought I had something wrong with the idle circuit or something, but I remembered that Marlin had this same problem with a 5V-FE engine we put in a Landcruiser, and he found out that the Air Flow meter had debris on the sensor wire and it was messing everything up. So without any hesitation, I promptly called Marlin, tore the Air Flow ECM apart, and sure enough it was very dirty. After I cleaned it, I and fired it up, and just like that, it fired right up like a champ. Idled very smoothly, reved really nice, and I could notice the computer learning the parameters as each time I popped WOT it got quicker and more responsive. I was so happy.

Click here for the Video (1.3MB)

The above video is just some footage of me starting it up and rev'n it. The resolution is rather small (like 240x120 or something) but the audio is ok. Also my camera is notorious for not providing enough light in movie mode, so the shots of the interior hot wiring are very dark, but please have a look anyways

Well, I've got to finish some Physics homework due tomorrow, I've not studied, its 12:38am, it's dark, and im wearing sunglasses. Hit It!

BigMike

[SWAMPER]

Mike sounds sweet 

[FIREBALL]

Congrats Mike!!!!!!!!!! Can't wait to go wheelin with ya.
Check engine light? VSS, no signal?

[BigMike [OP]]

Just listened to the engine start...man, that sounds healthy!!!!

yeah, and that's with all of the base settings in the computer too. It hasn't had any time to figure out things like air temp, fuel mixtures, elevation (oxygen content), barametric pressure (normal manifold pressure), what ever- Once I get it out and drive it for 15 - 20 mins it will only be improving!

Congrats Mike!!!!!!!!!! Can't wait to go wheelin with ya.
Check engine light? VSS, no signal?

If so then Toyota's changed the way its detected. On my MR2 SC (1989-1993 system), the book says "No signal from VSS for 8 seconds under loaded conditions." But maybe the 3RZ wants to make sure the VSS is their at startup. It could be, and it's easy to remedy, I'll simply plug one in. I supose that will be the first thing I'll do.

Im not sure if I will be able to work on the truck on Sunday or not, I've got 3 test next week and I need to really study... damn truck is taking up too much of my time right now. But the sooner I get it on the road, the sooner I'll have my free time back-


Cya
BigMike

[ifssucks]

i need a t100 2wd oil pan for a 2.7???  anyone have any ideas?

[BigMike [OP]]

i need a t100 2wd oil pan for a 2.7??? anyone have any ideas?

In order to clear your front differential, you will need to place a rear sump oil pan. This of course will also require a rear sump oil pickup tube. These items are only found on a 2WD T100 due to the way Toyota designed the front suspension on those trucks. My engine is from a 1995 2WD 4cyl T100, therefore it is ready to clear a 4WD front axle, however not by much, it is the best that we can do for now without modifing a pan.

Check on Page 8 of this thread for Toyhatsu's posts and his work, specifically Reply #237, however a couple of his part numbers are incorrect.

Here's the pic of Toyhatsu's engine with the Tacoma (incorrect) oil pan:


And here's a pic of my T100 (correct) oil pan, notice that the sump is at the rear of the pan, and is clearing the front axle (sort'of):


Hope this helps!!

BigMike

[ifssucks]

is the t100 pan shorter? its ok if the sump is in the front but it hits the steering linkage and maybe the stabalizer. im not sure about the stabalizer because i took it off when i dropped the motor. i think it would be easier just to keep the pan i have and modify the steering linkage, draglink or whatever it is called. i cant find a used pan anywhere in town, theyre 130 from the dealer.plus the price of the pump. thanks for the help. i havent seen anyone try this with ifs. how should i hook up a fuel pump. just buy an electric pump and run a line into the tank and wire it in, how much flow do i need and will i need a regulator also.? this is becoming a pain in the ass.

[Tool Guy]

congrats BigMike... now lets see it in action!!

[freds40]

Hey Mike, you still need an EFI throttle cable? I might have one on my '86 parts 'runner out back. I'll let you know tomorrow or Sunday when I can see a bit better.

[BigMike [OP]]

this is becoming a pain in the ass.

Hey man, dont feel down. What did you think this would be? Any engine swap job isn't gonna be a walk in the park. It will take alot of time, effort, energy, money, and parts to complete. Heck, I've now got 68 days in this project and I still can't drive it! Plus it will be another 2-4 weeks until its ready to get tested by the Cali smog referee. But you are already moving with your project. You've got your old engine out, and you are test fitting the 3RZ. That's awesome. Dont quit now!! There was a reason why you decided to do this in the first place, so keep with it!!

is the t100 pan shorter?

Im not sure if the lowest part on the T100's pan is a lower profile than the lowest part of the Tacoma's pan, but I do know that the Tacoma pan is much much taller at the higher profile point.

its ok if the sump is in the front but it hits the steering linkage and maybe the stabilizer.

Hey man, looking at the pic from Toyhatsu, I would recommend against using the Tacoma oil pan. If it clears the diff, then it'll be sticking out in front like a sore thumb! Im sure you're gonna wack that thing on a rock and then your really !

But if this is what you really want to do, then you can easily use a HySteer system and build some custom arms like FIREBALL did and relocate the Tierod behind the diff..

i cant find a used pan anywhere in town, theyre 130 from the dealer. plus the price of the pump.

I just checked on http://www.car-parts.com and http://www.robertsparts.com/ has one for $50 from a 1997 3RZ T100. You dont need a new pump, but rather just the pickup tube. Hopefully the wrecking yard can just include that with the oil pan..

thanks for the help. i havent seen anyone try this with ifs.

Oh, you know what, I didnt realize that you had IFS.. To be honest, I dont know what kind of clearance you'll have in there.... Forget about the HySteer idea. And about using a Drivers-side IFS front axle, I doubt it would be a cost effective modification to make. If you use the Tacoma IFS system, it would be stronger than your stock IFS, but it's wider and a lot more work than doing a SAS. Plus the SAS would be alot stronger and flex better in the rocks, if you plan to do that....

how should i hook up a fuel pump. just buy an electric pump and run a line into the tank and wire it in, how much flow do i need and will i need a regulator also.?

I could have installed an inline electric fuel pump, but I dont trust them. Also my truck is a shortbed, and I always planned that if I ever buy a truck, it will get the largest gas tank Toyota has made, so that's why I converted mine over to a 3rd gen. extra cab style (just over 18 gallons). The fuel lines for the high pressure lines were just some line I got from my local Decker Auto Parts (automotive distributor) that were I believe 5/16" on the high pres. side and 3/8 on the return, but I dont remember for sure, I will need to check my receipts. As for the regulator, its already part of the engine, so you dont need to worry about that


Good luck and keep the questions coming! I'll offer as much help as I can!!!

BigMike

[BigMike [OP]]

Hey Toyhatsu, thanks for that measurement. I'll see what 16" from the lower corner looks like on my setup. But I was looking at it last night, and I think my bend that heads below the trans is located a lot closer to the lower corner of my cast manifold than that headers. I dont think it will fit.... I'll let ya know next time I get down to the shop, which now is looking like it wont be until NEXT THURSDAY!!! AAHH CRAP!!!!! but I've gotta keep my priotries in line or Ill screw up in school 


freds40: check your PMs.


BigMike

[freds40]

PMed ya back Mike, got the cable.

[GrimReaper]

Mike:
Little heads up on that battery.

 Those side terminal won't carry any big load. Its a lead strip down from the top terminals with a zink plated nut potted in the end where your bolted up. I think the book even says not to hook winches and starters to that terminal. From first hand experaince I have seen that terminal melt out under heavy load of a winch. You need to move your main back up to the top terminals. Only use those sides for accessores that are not going to draw over 30amps continious. 


Lookin great!

Wanna come to Atlanta and do a 2L-TE swap? I'm seariously concidering it and I'm going to get a Cut to do it. I will have the total electrical system gages and even the dash out of a HiLux. Should not be a hard conversion.

[FIREBALL]

Wow, great info GR. I used to have my winch hooked up to those posts.....won't do that this time.

[GrimReaper]

Wow, great info GR. I used to have my winch hooked up to those posts.....won't do that this time.

My buddy found out the hard way. We were dragging Kyle from KMA's Path finder out of a hole that I couldnt snatch him out of with my 6,000 lb K5 backing right up to his bumper and full throttling snatch. I didn't have a winch so My buddy decidedt to double line him with a Warn 9k. So he drags himself towards Kyle's truck. I strap my truck to him for weight and stand on the brakes. Start pulling then nothing. Lift my buddys hood to find the POS cable from the winch laying on the inner fender with the Nut still on it and the side terminal of tha battery melted through. 

Ended up taking me and two other trucks as dead weight and a triple lined Mile marker Hydro AND the Warn double lined. That hole cost Kyle a Engine. Swamped the computer. Mud got around the timing belt at the crank and dried. He gets a new computer 2 weeks later. Plugs it in hit the key. Mud  gets between the belt and lower gear and breaks it. Zero clearence motor 

[BigMike [OP]]

My buddy found out the hard way....................That hole cost Kyle a Engine.

Man that really sucks.. Thanks for the info. I know that if I when ever I buy a winch I will supply it with it's own wires direct to the battery's top posts. It's actually why I left those unused, they are reserved for a winch.

But I never knew that less amps are on the side terminals. I would like to contact Optima and see what they say about using those for cranking. Im sure it wont be a problem, as Im only cranking for < 5 seconds anyways. But definitely if I install like a sub+amp or something, then I will route them to the top posts.

Also, after I had built my battery mount, welded it to the frame, and started on the wires, something occurred to me. Why the hell did I mount the battery with the side posts facing DOWN? I should have rotated the battery 180 degrees so that the side posts are on the top side of the battery.

But since I've not finished all of the wiring, and Im not driving the truck every day yet, I have been disconnecting the neg. battery line each night I clean up from working on the rig so that it doesn't get slowly drained by some incomplete circuit. And you know what? It's really incredibly easy to disconnect the wire right now, so I might use that as a method of slowing down a would-be thief (and using a small wire to keep my clock and radio presets).

So its a good + bad arrangement of the battery but its done and I dont care about it any more

Night-
BigMike

[lowgeared]

I have two Optima red tops-double the amperage-and my Warn 8274-50 has been hooked to the side terminals for years.  I winch all of the time.  Not because I'm stuck, it's because were climbing up stuff that is so steep.  I also have pulled several vehicles up stuff, out of sand, mud, and snow.  I have yet to have a problem.  My friend who supplied the batteries sells batteries at Standard Batteries.  He hooked everything up with huge welding cable and crimp on ends.  Maybe the dual setup is why I haven't had a problem?   

[GrimReaper]

I have two Optima red tops-double the amperage-and my Warn 8274-50 has been hooked to the side terminals for years.  I winch all of the time.  Not because I'm stuck, it's because were climbing up stuff that is so steep.  I also have pulled several vehicles up stuff, out of sand, mud, and snow.  I have yet to have a problem.  My friend who supplied the batteries sells batteries at Standard Batteries.  He hooked everything up with huge welding cable and crimp on ends.  Maybe the dual setup is why I haven't had a problem?   

Saw it first hand that time and was made aware of another person having the same happen. Now we were on the verge of stalling that winch double lined so he was big time stuck. I think the 9k warns are pulling like 400 amps under full load. Not sure on the 8274 but the 8274 is a strange one. I have seen them out pull plenty of winches rated higher and seem to do it with less effort. I think that winch is underated.

4cylinder toy that fires off quick...may never be a problem. Dead truck trying to drive it out of a hole on the starter..........

[Ferg]

Try this - jumper from the top post to the side post with a length of battery cable.  Keep it as short as possible.  This provides a parallel path for current flow and increases load capacity.