Topic: Set timing on 22RE

[NATER623]

Is your yota carbed or fuel injected? 

[Voss]

I am fighting a similar problem in my 91 22re, I am sure you have done it but double check you vacum lines, that would cause a ruff idle.   I am to the point that I have replaced about everything and am very suspect of the computer.

[flyin hawaiian]

Mine stumbles at idle also. my jumper doesn't change timing to. And i rich as . i drive a 85 sr5 runner

[79coyotefrg]

Mine stumbles at idle also. my jumper doesn't change timing to. And i rich as . i drive a 85 sr5 runner

adjust your afm,  cut the silicone seal, pop the black top, then move the gear counterclockwise

[Fisch_Taco]

Here's how it works: TE1 and E1 are two terminals of the diagnostic check connector (next to the under-hood fuse box). When cheking timing, first find the little timing notch on the crankshaft pulley, and dab it with some white paint or something similar so that it will show up under a timing light. Now locate the timing marks on the engine block. You can use a Standard Service Tool (SST) that is made for jumping the terminals, or just get a little piece of copper wire out of any spare wiring you can find around the garage, or possibly even use a paper-clip, although I get a better connection with the wire, it seems like. Now start your truck and make sure that the engine is idling at 850 for 4wd, 750 for 2wd. If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle adjustment screw (big black flathead screw on the throttle body). Counter-clockwise to raise idle, clockwise to lower. Once the idle speed is sitting correctly, stick one end of the wire in the TE1 terminal and the other end in the E1 terminal. This retards the timing, and must be done for good results. With the terminals jumped, attach the timing light however is needed depending on what light you have, and then shine on the timing marks. The white notch should line up with the 5 mark on the engine block (5 degrees before top dead center). If it does not, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and slowly move the distributor until the marks line up correctly. A friend may be helpful for this. Now tighten the distributor, making sure not to mess up your adjustment when doing so. Now pull out the connector from the two terminals, and the timing should advance itself to 10-14 degrees BTDC (the last mark on the engine block is 12). If the timing does not advance when pulling out the connector, you have "inability to set correct base timing", which opens up a whole new problem. Hopefully you will be fine in this regard. Now drive the truck around, listen to see if it is idling/running smoothly, and make sure you don't here any engine pinging. If you hear pinging try again at setting the timing. If not, you're good to go! Here's a link to the popular online Factory Service Manual, it has instructions with pictures. The Haynes manual also has good instructions, you can probably find it in a library or something. Hope this helps, good luck with your truck!

After replaceing my timing chain and setting the timing my truck would idle fine but on the freeway in 5th gear my engine would "ping". The other day on the freeway the engine lost power and now it wont idle at all if I reset the timing. Is it possible I jumped a tooth on the chain or did damaged to the valves?

[toy4xfun]

check your tps sensor,  if it isnt adjusted correctly or is worn out the timing wont change when you install the jumper to set it.  something inside the computer causes that

i have had this problem before, the TPS was bad but not throwing a code.

[I.D.G.A.F [OP]]

I forgot about this thread, my buddy's yota was idling and timing chain broke. We replaced it and lucky there were no valve train damage,so it is possible to "luck out"