Author Topic: Set timing on 22RE (Read 86919 times)

I.D.G.A.F · « **on:** Feb 19, 2008, 03:04:10 AM »

I just put a new timing chain on a Buddy's 4Runner thats has EFI and the book said something about jumping two terminals to cancel the computer to set the timing? Any help would be awesome

Duffil · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 19, 2008, 07:16:27 AM »

what year? early EFI diagnostic plug is on the drivers fenderwell behind the air cleaner, later style is over by the battery. Try searching, there is a ton of info on this.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 22, 2008, 07:18:57 PM »

Quote from: Duffil on Feb 19, 2008, 07:16:27 AM

what year? early EFI diagnostic plug is on the drivers fenderwell behind the air cleaner, later style is over by the battery. Try searching, there is a ton of info on this.

i just searched and couldnt find crap

Joey88RUNR · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 22, 2008, 07:20:50 PM »

I bellieve that Its E1 to T1...not positive though

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 22, 2008, 07:46:31 PM »

ok i looked it up its TE1 and E1

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on Sep 22, 2008, 07:39:42 PM

===============================================

Here's how it works: TE1 and E1 are two terminals of the diagnostic check connector (next to the under-hood fuse box). When cheking timing, first find the little timing notch on the crankshaft pulley, and dab it with some white paint or something similar so that it will show up under a timing light. Now locate the timing marks on the engine block. You can use a Standard Service Tool (SST) that is made for jumping the terminals, or just get a little piece of copper wire out of any spare wiring you can find around the garage, or possibly even use a paper-clip, although I get a better connection with the wire, it seems like. Now start your truck and make sure that the engine is idling at 850 for 4wd, 750 for 2wd. If adjustment is necessary, turn the idle adjustment screw (big black flathead screw on the throttle body). Counter-clockwise to raise idle, clockwise to lower. Once the idle speed is sitting correctly, stick one end of the wire in the TE1 terminal and the other end in the E1 terminal. This retards the timing, and must be done for good results. With the terminals jumped, attach the timing light however is needed depending on what light you have, and then shine on the timing marks. The white notch should line up with the 5 mark on the engine block (5 degrees before top dead center). If it does not, loosen the distributor hold-down bolt and slowly move the distributor until the marks line up correctly. A friend may be helpful for this. Now tighten the distributor, making sure not to mess up your adjustment when doing so. Now pull out the connector from the two terminals, and the timing should advance itself to 10-14 degrees BTDC (the last mark on the engine block is 12). If the timing does not advance when pulling out the connector, you have "inability to set correct base timing", which opens up a whole new problem. Hopefully you will be fine in this regard. Now drive the truck around, listen to see if it is idling/running smoothly, and make sure you don't here any engine pinging. If you hear pinging try again at setting the timing. If not, you're good to go! Here's a link to the popular online Factory Service Manual, it has instructions with pictures. The Haynes manual also has good instructions, you can probably find it in a library or something. Hope this helps, good luck with your truck!

http://myweb.dal.ca/is353832/93fsm/

THK Matt · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 30, 2008, 12:22:32 AM »

that helped alot!
i think my distributer is off one tooth. now that the vacuum lines are all corrected.

I.D.G.A.F · « **Reply #6 on:** Oct 01, 2008, 02:22:30 PM »

thanks for info but my buddy got pissed off and sold the runner, our friend that bought it got it running in an hour/ I think it was off a tooth!

Wermz84 · « **Reply #7 on:** Oct 01, 2008, 02:29:15 PM »

Quote from: I.D.G.A.F on Oct 01, 2008, 02:22:30 PM

thanks for info but my buddy got pissed off and sold the runner, our friend that bought it got it running in an hour/ I think it was off a tooth!

I hate it when somebody else makes it look easy. haha.

THK Matt · « **Reply #8 on:** Oct 01, 2008, 03:48:19 PM »

i think mine is off a tooth as well.

I.D.G.A.F · « **Reply #9 on:** Oct 01, 2008, 05:13:57 PM »

I tried to tell him that but... and the bad part was I could have bought it for $400 bucks but I already have two yotas and the ole Lady said that's enough!

Wermz84 · « **Reply #10 on:** Oct 02, 2008, 02:03:46 PM »

Quote from: I.D.G.A.F on Oct 01, 2008, 05:13:57 PM

I tried to tell him that but... and the bad part was I could have bought it for $400 bucks but I already have two yotas and the ole Lady said that's enough!

ditch the O'lady. Have 3 Yots. done deal.

I.D.G.A.F · « **Reply #11 on:** Oct 04, 2008, 07:03:36 AM »

Ha Ha Ha, If only it was that easy.

Plekto · « **Reply #12 on:** Oct 18, 2008, 11:23:55 AM »

Wow. $400 - would have been a nice find.

Rule #318 of life: Any time you can obtain a vehicle for $500 or less that's intact, buy it.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #13 on:** Oct 18, 2008, 04:39:32 PM »

My 4Runner has a sticker under the hood that shows the two to jumper. My problem was I didn't know what the sticker was telling me.

We'd make a great team! I can get you a picture later tonight if you don't have one on your truck.

THK Matt · « **Reply #14 on:** Oct 19, 2008, 06:31:30 AM »

Quote from: blackdiamond on Oct 18, 2008, 04:39:32 PM

My 4Runner has a sticker under the hood that shows the two to jumper. My problem was I didn't know what the sticker was telling me.

We'd make a great team! I can get you a picture later tonight if you don't have one on your truck.

I have that sticker too.

Same with the Vacuum one.

I.D.G.A.F · « **Reply #15 on:** Oct 21, 2008, 04:14:27 PM »

Awesome, I don't remember seeing that sticker but.... A dude I met the other day did give me a 1984 standard/short bed 4x4 foe FREE. The only bad part was the frame was rotten so we raped it Fenders,doors,axles front pinion is broke,trans,transfer case (forward shift) head,tail light. That was striped in 4 hours by myself!

THK Matt · « **Reply #16 on:** Oct 22, 2008, 01:15:42 AM »

damn son

OHToyguy · « **Reply #17 on:** Nov 02, 2008, 06:19:49 PM »

I have my own problem that i'm hoping someone can help me with.... here's the whole story: I had an '84 4 runner (22r), put an '86 EFI cab on after beating up the 4runner body. I did a COMPLETE rebuild of the engine. bottom up. turned the crank, checked rods, .30 over, valve job, injectors, and a Comp Cam. when i bolted up the EFI intake, thankfully still hooked up to the cab, it was a pretty easy bolt up. but it had a bad miss. as much power as i could ever expect from a 22re, but a bad miss. i was told the 22r distributer had to be swapped for a 22re distributer. makes sense right? put it in, now idles and revs smooth. no miss whatsoever. but no balls either. this thing is a turd. won't get out of its own way. i just don't get it. we tried adjusting the timing a dozen times, and cannot get it to rev faster (as it should) or bring up any power at all. someone told me recently something about an adjustable cam gear..... i don't get it. i'm very confused and very frustrated. PLEASE HELP!

I.D.G.A.F · « **Reply #18 on:** Nov 03, 2008, 02:11:02 AM »

maybe your just getting enough fuel to run/rev, but not enough volume to get power! I would put an small eletric pump in line temp to see if that's what is wrong.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #19 on:** Nov 03, 2008, 03:21:00 AM »

Quote from: OHToyguy on Nov 02, 2008, 06:19:49 PM

I have my own problem that i'm hoping someone can help me with.... here's the whole story: I had an '84 4 runner (22r), put an '86 EFI cab on after beating up the 4runner body. I did a COMPLETE rebuild of the engine. bottom up. turned the crank, checked rods, .30 over, valve job, injectors, and a Comp Cam. when i bolted up the EFI intake, thankfully still hooked up to the cab, it was a pretty easy bolt up. but it had a bad miss. as much power as i could ever expect from a 22re, but a bad miss. i was told the 22r distributer had to be swapped for a 22re distributer. makes sense right? put it in, now idles and revs smooth. no miss whatsoever. but no balls either. this thing is a turd. won't get out of its own way. i just don't get it. we tried adjusting the timing a dozen times, and cannot get it to rev faster (as it should) or bring up any power at all. someone told me recently something about an adjustable cam gear..... i don't get it. i'm very confused and very frustrated. PLEASE HELP!

what did you do about the fuel pump? to me, it sounds liek you rebuilt the engine and converted it to efi? the 22r had a fuel pump on the side of the head that was low pressure and mechanical, the 22re should not have that, and should have a high pressure electric fuel pump in the gas tank

THK Matt · « **Reply #20 on:** Nov 03, 2008, 06:41:52 AM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Nov 03, 2008, 03:21:00 AM

what did you do about the fuel pump? to me, it sounds liek you rebuilt the engine and converted it to efi? the 22r had a fuel pump on the side of the head that was low pressure and mechanical, the 22re should not have that, and should have a high pressure electric fuel pump in the gas tank

make sure you are not using the 22R fuel pump.
and if you already did switch to the EFI pump... check your fuel filter next.

I.D.G.A.F · « **Reply #21 on:** Nov 03, 2008, 05:26:05 PM »

If you don't want to drop your tank, Advance Auto Parts sells a universal in-line fuel pump for 4&6 bangers for like $30 shells!

THK Matt · « **Reply #22 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 12:13:30 AM »

Quote from: I.D.G.A.F on Nov 03, 2008, 05:26:05 PM

If you don't want to drop your tank, Advance Auto Parts sells a universal in-line fuel pump for 4&6 bangers for like $30 shells!

pulling the bed away from the tank is easier then dropping that damn tank lol

I.D.G.A.F · « **Reply #23 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 02:34:17 AM »

true that!

Matty · « **Reply #24 on:** Sep 03, 2009, 03:56:10 PM »

Figured i would bump this thread instead of starting a new one. Basically I am trying to set the timing on my truck 86 turbo with an 85 22RE in it. I jumped the terminal on the inside of the drivers side fender and set the timing at 5 deg but when i unhook the terminal/ turn the truck off and back on the timing does not change at all. The truck will barely idle and will die sometimes when i go to slow down/stop. The timing is supposed to jump back to around 12 without the connector hooked up right? It sounds and runs great when i just set the timing at 12 as well. It is also hard to set because the timing mark jumps around a lot while idling. It will jump while set at 5 all the way to 12 then back down and does this at almost any setting. Any thoughts/ ideas/ input?

Matty · « **Reply #25 on:** Sep 05, 2009, 08:48:53 AM »

bump help plz

chim · « **Reply #26 on:** Sep 05, 2009, 09:18:38 AM »

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#TimingCheckConnector

Matty · « **Reply #27 on:** Sep 07, 2009, 07:00:44 PM »

thanks for the link. now im sure im jumping the right connector, but it still isnt working.

NATER623 · « **Reply #28 on:** Sep 12, 2009, 03:36:50 PM »

check your tps sensor, if it isnt adjusted correctly or is worn out the timing wont change when you install the jumper to set it. something inside the computer causes that

miks85yota · « **Reply #29 on:** Oct 01, 2009, 10:01:33 PM »

how come ive never had to jump any connectors or anything like that, i just set the timing every now and then ill have to use the light, but usually if its out, youll hear it, is this for fine ttuning ur timing to get it perfect, is it something i should be doing every time i set one?

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