Author Topic: J-Arm Ball Flip info  (Read 66040 times)

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lal357

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #60 on: Nov 29, 2007, 04:25:32 AM »
i bought some edlebrock sas shocks for my sons bronco and they are mounted upside down from summit cheap might want to look into them
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oztoy

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #61 on: Dec 08, 2007, 04:48:25 AM »
Hi looking at doing the ball flip on my j arm when we came up with the idea of using tie rod ends instead
This would involve removing ball on j arm an on steering box an inserting tappered sleeves into the holes which would suit a suitable heavy an common tie rod end an then making rod to suit
Just wondering if anyone else has tried this type of idea

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #62 on: Dec 08, 2007, 07:19:57 AM »
Hi looking at doing the ball flip on my j arm when we came up with the idea of using tie rod ends instead
This would involve removing ball on j arm an on steering box an inserting tappered sleeves into the holes which would suit a suitable heavy an common tie rod end an then making rod to suit
Just wondering if anyone else has tried this type of idea
not that I have ever seen.  you will lose clearance between the drag link and the shock if you do this, as a TRE will be larger than the drag link currently is.  I do not see any advantage to doing this.

oztoy

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #63 on: Dec 09, 2007, 01:56:44 AM »
not that I have ever seen.  you will lose clearance between the drag link and the shock if you do this, as a TRE will be larger than the drag link currently is.  I do not see any advantage to doing this.
Tie rod end will have the nut on the underside of the j arm which will increase the clearance an lift the new drop link up so that it lines up straighter with the arm on the steering box

Duffil [OP]

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #64 on: Dec 09, 2007, 12:57:46 PM »
What I mean is the body of a TRE is larger than the body of the drag link.  you will lose lateral clearance with the shock.  also, by having a nut below the J-Arm, you may not have enough clearance to run a ubolt flip.

Tie rod end will have the nut on the underside of the j arm which will increase the clearance an lift the new drop link up so that it lines up straighter with the arm on the steering box


Actually, having a nut down there VS having a weld down there will decrease clearance.

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #65 on: Dec 10, 2007, 09:33:22 PM »
or if you have 700 dollars just get some high steer(im taking to rex on this one) :gap:

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #66 on: Dec 15, 2007, 08:17:53 AM »
no.  you do not install shocks opposite of the way they are designed to be installed.  I am not worried; It's a $13 shock, and all the wheeling I've done until The 'Con, it hasn't caused a problem.

The only reason shocks need to be mounted the way they were designed is for clearance or mounting style.  That being said, if clearance is the problem and you're willing to install new shock mounts, then by all means go ahead and flip em.

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #67 on: Dec 15, 2007, 05:48:29 PM »
I'll be doing this again soon  .. for a 3rd time !   i'm not a "rock crawler "   
I wont EVER buy hi steer ..
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Duffil [OP]

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #68 on: Dec 15, 2007, 05:52:25 PM »
I'll be doing this again soon  .. for a 3rd time !   i'm not a "rock crawler "   
I wont EVER buy hi steer ..

why again? Are you having breakage issues or different trucks?

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #69 on: Dec 16, 2007, 08:21:44 AM »
different trucks  , NO issues ..
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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #70 on: Jan 27, 2008, 05:30:10 AM »
did it a few weeks ago so far like it .i like the angle of my zbar almost perfectly straight now if put the old bar back on might be perfect with that said it seems to steer easier on the street i figure that is from it being  perpendicular and not binding anymore. i should have took pics of the before and after but oh well
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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #71 on: Jan 27, 2008, 09:19:04 AM »
Glad it worked out for ya. :thumbs:

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #72 on: Jan 30, 2008, 01:04:15 PM »
The only reason shocks need to be mounted the way they were designed is for clearance or mounting style.  That being said, if clearance is the problem and you're willing to install new shock mounts, then by all means go ahead and flip em.

Not correct.  It entirely depends on the shock.  Some shocks can, some can't.   (Well, you can run it upsidedown, I did.  After alittle time, it was like not having a shock on at all.)  Flipped it back around.. Shocked worked.
These were the ES 3000



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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #73 on: Jan 30, 2008, 01:08:38 PM »
Not correct.  It entirely depends on the shock.  Some shocks can, some can't.   (Well, you can run it upsidedown, I did.  After alittle time, it was like not having a shock on at all.)  Flipped it back around.. Shocked worked.
These were the ES 3000


:psss:  That's why I left that one alone.

toyofan7987

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #74 on: Mar 20, 2008, 09:08:53 PM »
what is the reason for the ball flip ?? is it a way to avoid hysteer?? or to improve on it ?? is it done to the stock push pull??
any answers please

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #75 on: Mar 20, 2008, 10:13:53 PM »
It is done to the stock J-arm, Hy steer is much better but if you cant afford that then the ball flip works very well.  Less stress on steering parts when the ball flip is done on a lifted toyota.  Read through the whole thread and you should find all answers that you have about this mod
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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #76 on: Mar 21, 2008, 08:37:52 AM »
It is done to the stock J-arm, Hy steer is much better but if you cant afford that then the ball flip works very well.  Less stress on steering parts when the ball flip is done on a lifted toyota.  Read through the whole thread and you should find all answers that you have about this mod

thanx

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #77 on: Apr 02, 2008, 03:46:35 PM »
It is done to the stock J-arm, Hy steer is much better but if you cant afford that then the ball flip works very well.  Less stress on steering parts when the ball flip is done on a lifted toyota.  Read through the whole thread and you should find all answers that you have about this mod

 i read thru it... i didnt see anything on if it works with RUF's.
just that a new drag link or a modified drag link is needed.
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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #78 on: Apr 02, 2008, 04:42:52 PM »
I have RUF with about 3" of lift and it works fine.  If you have the u-bolt flip kit then you will need to cut the ends of the bolts down to keep the J-arm from hitting them.  That's what I had to do on mine to make it work.  :twocents:

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #79 on: Apr 02, 2008, 05:04:23 PM »
I have RUF with about 3" of lift and it works fine.  If you have the u-bolt flip kit then you will need to cut the ends of the bolts down to keep the J-arm from hitting them.  That's what I had to do on mine to make it work.  :twocents:

thanks :thumbs:
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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #80 on: Apr 04, 2008, 02:03:01 PM »
I am thinking about swapping my rear springs up front this spring.  I plan on building a pack with no more than 3 inches of lift, preferably less.  I really do not need a lift, because thats what hammers, saws, and welders are for.  I just want a nice riding, super flexible pack.  I was wondering I can just run a flipped ball joint, or will something like this have too much flex for the steering system to handle, especially since I will have to shorten the drag link to do the spring swap.  I really cannot do a high steer either because I would really have to do my homework and alot of work to make it clear since I am not lifting it alot.  So what do you guys think I should do?
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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #81 on: Apr 04, 2008, 02:11:16 PM »
you better stock up on J-Arms...short drag link will make it bind, without even having to travel very far(droop) and you will break it if the suspension is flexy.

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #82 on: Apr 04, 2008, 02:38:15 PM »
my shocks are mounted shaft down. itsnt that really the only way to see if your shocks are blown out. you see oil leaking and you kniw right. besides having no preasure

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #83 on: Apr 04, 2008, 02:47:39 PM »
I am thinking about swapping my rear springs up front this spring.  I plan on building a pack with no more than 3 inches of lift, preferably less.  I really do not need a lift, because thats what hammers, saws, and welders are for.  I just want a nice riding, super flexible pack.  I was wondering I can just run a flipped ball joint, or will something like this have too much flex for the steering system to handle, especially since I will have to shorten the drag link to do the spring swap.  I really cannot do a high steer either because I would really have to do my homework and alot of work to make it clear since I am not lifting it alot.  So what do you guys think I should do?

wouldnt a dropped drag link work well for this? i know you will also be flipping the ball, but i see several rigs using both setups, some very mildly lifted
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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #84 on: Apr 04, 2008, 06:01:02 PM »
That draglink will be mighty short!  :gap:  You might consider moving the steering box forward to not have to shorten the draglink...but if you do that you might as well go for hysteer since it'll be about the same amount of work. Probably doable though if you plan on keeping the stock box anyway.  :dunno: If anything it'll get you warmed up for doing the IFS box set up.  :cheese:

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #85 on: Apr 15, 2008, 08:37:42 AM »
you better stock up on J-Arms...short drag link will make it bind, without even having to travel very far(droop) and you will break it if the suspension is flexy.

If it doesn't break, it will at least bend.  :D    STock up on drag links too!


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All_Set

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #86 on: Apr 15, 2008, 08:40:32 AM »
my shocks are mounted shaft down. itsnt that really the only way to see if your shocks are blown out. you see oil leaking and you kniw right. besides having no preasure

Wrong thread.  Depends on the shock.  Some shocks are not meant to be ran "can up" and will lose pressure over couple days.


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jsyota

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #87 on: May 23, 2008, 10:02:23 PM »
Duffil                                                                                                                                    Ive done a solid axle swap on a 91 yota and was wonderin if the stock pitman arm can be done like the j arm flip? ( by grindin and pressin the ball out of socket?       :crossed:

Duffil [OP]

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #88 on: May 23, 2008, 10:57:44 PM »
you can buy one from MC for $69.
If you wanted to chance it, you would have to remove quite a bit of material...the ball in that thing is like 1 1/8" or so...


I remember someone offering a weld in insert to make a Chevy 1 ton TRE seat properly in a Toy pitman arm...if it were me, I'd just buy a new arm, but anything can be done.

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Re: J-Arm Ball Flip info
« Reply #89 on: May 25, 2008, 01:05:23 AM »
I need to do this once I build my front packs. Or have someone do it for me, since I have very limited welding experience. Good thread! :thumbs:

 
 
 
 
 

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