Author Topic: YotaDave85's Exo Cage and Bumper Build (& Wheelin pics)  (Read 53363 times)

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MisfitDave

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YotaDave85's Exo Cage and Bumper Build (& Wheelin pics)
« on: Dec 23, 2006, 12:51:11 AM »
First off this Forum is the best, I've spent long hours reading builds and tech stuff and love it! Thanks.  ok i've got an 85 Pickup 22r (was in such a hurry to get one with the solid axle forgot to make EFI a priority). 
Here's what I've got installed already;
-Holley 350 Carb w/ intake
-Downey's Headers and Exhaust system
-5.29s in the rear with a LockRight

And these are piled up and waiting;
-Marlin's TrailFlex Kit with 5" Springs
-Marlin's Hy-Steer Crossover Kit
-Power Steering Conversion
-Mile Marker 8000lb Winch
-Homemade roof rack w/ lights
-Flat Bed

I'm brand new to this sort of fab and am used to the pure bolt on and go type stuff.  I think I'm gonna need a ton of help so please post anything you think might be useful or anything you see me doing wrong in the pics I post.  Here's some pics:

I just started welding and these are some of the first, I hope they'll fly! I welded that plate at the top then beat on it with a sledge hammer and the sucker wouldn't break off. I was pretty proud.
« Last Edit: Feb 11, 2007, 04:07:00 PM by YotaDave85 »

79coyotefrg

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looks sweet man  :woohoo:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

toyotaexo

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practice makes perfect on those welds! keep those pic's coming on your build!

DTB

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keep us updated :welcome:  :biggthumpup:
RIP KYOTA
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toyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

MisfitDave [OP]

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today i managed to get the rear end all torn apart, minus the spring hangers, those bolts must be melded to the bushings inside cuz no amount of hammering could get them through, wish I had a torch! 4 out of 5 bolts and nuts had to be ground off or popped off, the pros of working on an older rig with decent rust and wear right?  Now I'm ready to start measuring and putting the new stuff on. 
Ok only one question so far, Marlin's instructions online say the position of the rear spring hangers needs to be moved forward 6" from center of hole to center of hole.  Is this strict or can I figure the holes are centered in the hangers and just measure 6" along the frame rail from center of old hanger to center of new hanger? Or is that what they meant in the first place?  thanks in advance.
Ok first I tore off the old Ubolts an plates, one side came off with some serious force the other side needed the grinder.

This is how I left it for tonight, I won't grind off the hangers until the new ones are welede on, that way I don't mess up the position.

Ahh  and these goodies from Marlin are next on the to do list!   :thumbs:

toyotaexo

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I believe thats what they mean in the first place.   6 inches from the old perches center hole.  it's also a good idea to only tack everything before you completely weld so that you can check your shackle angle and thats everything is the way u want them.

DTB

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MMMMMMMMMMMMMM Tasty! :wag:
RIP KYOTA
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toyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

rockcrawlinredneck

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Center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole. Do not measure any thing off of the mounts them self's. If the hole on stock is half an inch from the edge and the new ones are three quarters of an inch then you will be off a quarter of an inch. Always use center of the mounting hole. Does this make sence?

 Kevin

MisfitDave [OP]

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Yeah that does make sense, thanks.  I was just struggling with the idea of trying to find the center of the stock hole, the center of the new one and then measure accurately 6" with only 2 hands.  I'll tack everything to make sure I've got it in the right place before I commit to any hanger placement.  Also with the new spring perches I was planning on getting everything else set then just placing them on with the Ubolt kit then deciding the angle I should place them at then weld them for good. Will this work, or is there a more calculated way of doing it? My way of thinking is I want a better angle because the axle will be sitting a lot lower than stock and i want to angle it so the drive shaft and pinion aren't fighting so much, but not too great of a change because the plug in the back will sit too low and not allow for the right amount of gear oil.

rockcrawlinredneck

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It is easy to accurately measure 6" forward. Measure the hole and mark your center on the mount, do this to both of them just make sure to hold the new mount close to the new position when you do it so that you don't "roll" your center mark. Get a plumb bob and drop it from your center mark on your stock mount. Get a piece of masking tape ( easier to see the mark's you are about to make) put it on the floor where the bob hits, make sure you have at least 6" forward of the mark with your tape. Now drop the bob again, mark with a pencil where it land's. Simply measure and mark 6" from there drop the bob to match the new mark and mark it on your frame. Viola there is your new 6" forward mark. Line up your new mount and you are good to go. Try and get your frame as level with the garage floor as possible. I don't mean to level your truck but put your frame parallel to the garage floor. I hope this helps.

 As far as the pinion angle yes that method will work just make sure you are centered before you weld. Also do not put your pinion angle straight with your D-line, you do want some angle to allow your u joint to actually work.

 Kevin

MisfitDave [OP]

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Ok I have the driver side rear spring hung, its only tacked for now.  I got the spring hanger where it needs to be as far as I know, but the shackle hanger ended up moving while i was tacking it and even though it sits parallel with the frame it moved 1/16" further back than it needs to be.  Is this a problem I need to correct, or can I just match the other side to it.  The shackles seem to be at an almost 90d angle from the frame, and I'm assuming thats what they should be.  I'm going to get started on the other side and not worry about it too much, any thoughts or info would be appreciated thanks! And Merry Christmas! I'll Post pics tonight.

MisfitDave [OP]

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Here's the pics I promised!  I've got all the rear hangers tacked in and the springs hung. The shackles look good, I hope thats about the angle they should be at, from what I gather it is.  I'm headed back out for some welding to make them permanant.  Then I'll start grinding off the old axle perches, this is where a cutting torch would save the day.  Oh well.  I hope to get at least that far tonight, maybe as far as getting the ubolts on. 


MisfitDave [OP]

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Ok I decided not to weld them all in place yet till I get some feedback.  Do these lood like they are in the right place or do the shackles need to angle back towards the bumper instead of almost straight up and down?   :confused: Please help thanks!

dov'd85

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 you want about a 45 degree angle when you have your truck sitting on the ground you wont be able to tell if that angle is any good until you put some weight on it... imo mine were straight up and down with no weight will be able to tell if the angle is good when you get it on the ground just tack them really good for now then bolt up the axle and put some tires under it and see what the angle it when you have it sitting...
85 long bed: 30 spline long, hydro assist, hysteer, 223.1 twin sticks, 39.5 iroks, rear disk,
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=28696.msg344178#msg344178

dov'd85

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if you put the front mounts 5in forward or what ever marlin calls out for then that is were you want them in that case weld them on good
85 long bed: 30 spline long, hydro assist, hysteer, 223.1 twin sticks, 39.5 iroks, rear disk,
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=28696.msg344178#msg344178

MisfitDave [OP]

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Thanks, I'm headed out to weld them now.  Marlin's instructions were the spring hanger forward 6" and the shackle hanger back 2".  The only confusion was how to measure the 6" since the fram there has a bend and is at an angle.  So I just stretched i tape from hole to hole and tacked it where 6" was.  The springs hang well and they look good so I figure that must be it.  Hope so Here I go.

MisfitDave [OP]

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I'm back! Delays on my truck due to work, but I've got a 3 day stretch to try and get as much done as possible.  Sxhools starts next week and I'm slammed for time.  the rear is almost done and I should finish today, but a quick question first.  I plan on using the stock upper shock mounts, but will weld on the new lower mounts to the axle, where is the best position for them? On top of the acle next to the flip kit? or on the sides? 
Also, would anybody be willing to take some pictures of their power steering system so I have something to reference.  The FSM has no diagrams, also any ideas on the bolts to mount the pump to the block?  The dealer says they don't know how to get them.

dov'd85

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ya with the flip kit you will need to make some brackets to mount your shocks to the axle.. imo if you have to weld two on the axle might aswell triangulate your shocks... and do you need a diagram of? were the power steering lines go?  :confused:
85 long bed: 30 spline long, hydro assist, hysteer, 223.1 twin sticks, 39.5 iroks, rear disk,
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=28696.msg344178#msg344178

MisfitDave [OP]

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The stock shocks sat one in front and one behind I was planning on just doing the same, what do you mean triangulate? Also I have a diagram of where the lines go, but I have don't have anything to look at for reference for the pulley, the location of the reservoir or pump? Basically mounting and location questions.  Also all the lines that came with it seem excessive, are they necessary or can I shorten them for a more direct route?

dov'd85

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i wouldn't mess with the length on the ones with ends those are high preasure lines but the low pressure lines you can shorten if need be.. are you converting a none power steering truck over to power steering? there should be a spot on the side of the motor for a bracket and pulley mount?? not sure what you are asking
85 long bed: 30 spline long, hydro assist, hysteer, 223.1 twin sticks, 39.5 iroks, rear disk,
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=28696.msg344178#msg344178

MisfitDave [OP]

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yes its non power steering and I've got the power steering components from a truck same year that had power steering. So right now I have a box full of the parts a new belt and no bolts at all. So from this and any visual aids I can find I've gotta create my own system. But as far as the rear shocks go I'm planning on just welding the new mounts to the side of the axle, next to the ubolts. Is that recommended?

79coyotefrg

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just below the distributor  on your head  are 3 10mm  holes with 1.25 thread,  you will need 3 10x1.25x 18-20mm

yes  you can weld the mounts to the axle but i recommend  / \
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

greeny

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How is that holley 350 and intake setup running for you?  I was interested in it but wasn't to sure on how well it would be.  You got a nice looking truck, have fun with it.

Rainer

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Looks good so far. Cant wait to start mine. Keep up the good work.

Mark
!!!FREEDOM IS NEVER FREE!!!!!!!!
1985 Toyota 4runner
22re rebuilt(offroad cam, internalls from enginebuilder)
5.29s with elockers f/r (high pinion front, v6 rear)
3inch suspensions 2 inch body
33 inch mixed tires. (bfg at, firestone at?)

MisfitDave [OP]

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Greeny, I got the holley carb from downey and it is far from bolt on and I haven't got it tuned for the best performance, it runs real rich right now and I just havent had time to take it to get it tuned.  but to answer your question I'm still not sure if it was worth it, I don't think th power gains were noticable enough for the amount of money I spent on the carb, intake and exhaust.  The good thing is with the Holley I will order one of the vent chimney for it and that will help the carb work at steep angles. Plus it looks sick as hell under the hood!

MisfitDave [OP]

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Here's the update!  Got the tires I'll be runnin; Goodyear's Wrangler MTR 35x12.5 on 15s.  Minus the rear shocks the rear end is done and I'll be putting the front on stands today and starting the remaining 2/3s of this part of my trucks build. 
I love these tires, I can't stop staring!  :eyebrow:

This is the after. What do you guys think of the welds? :dunno: Can you see em? Not the prettiest but I think they'll hold up.

yotamckimboy4x4

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looks good keep the pics coming
"We ride together, We die together, YOTABOYS FOR LIFE"    85 toy pickup 5 inch springs 2inch body lift, 36" IROKS, custom front bumper
"HOLD ON TIGHT"

greeny

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Thanks for the reply, I'll probably find out from this thread if it works or not in the future, I'll be listening.  Your ride is looking pretty sweet, keep it up dude. :driving:

Fearofrunner

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Nice tires man :bowdown:.  What kind of back spacing are you running on those rims?

MisfitDave [OP]

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They said it was 4" backspacing but they don't stick out hardly at all, so next step is wheel spacers.

 
 
 
 
 

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