Topic: my 3rzfe conversion into a 92 ifs 4x4 pickup

[malodin]

so after doing a bunch of research me and my friend david have decided to put a 3rzfe into his 92 4x4 with ifs.  The truck has at least a 4" skyjacker lift(not sure exactly) but its sitting on 33's with alot of room(so maybe even a 6")  i rounded up a first gen 3rz and all necessary stuff, like the bellhousing and what not.  I have hooked the engine/bellhousing/tranny/tcase up and set it in the rig as of right now.  I am now starting work on figuring out the motor mount issue.  which is kind of hard without a t100 oilpan but here is the pics of what i have right now.













fixed!

[79coyotefrg]

pics are good,  look at Bigmikes  motor mounts  and Bevins 3rz build

[malodin [OP]]

thanks, ive looked at those, and probably will do something similar but because mine is ifs, the motor will sit further down the frame rails so gotta work something out a little differently

[malodin [OP]]

I did some more work on the rig today, i sure wish big mike would come out with those motor mounts(or at least release the plans for the jig:) ) considering im in kind of uncharted waters with this ifs, but im pretty sure the motor mounts used on big mikes and bevins are so close to what i would need that i could get them to work after i get ahold of a set.  i dont have alot of fabrication tools to cut and bend my motor mounts.

[BigMike]

Look'n good malodin

One word of advise would be to bolt the trans & tcase up to the engine and use your factory crossmember with your factory tcase crossmember mount mounted. That is what I did with Bevin's and Marlin's. Since the back of both engines (R-series and RZ-series) are vertical, this sets the correct clearance between the 3RZ cylinder head and firewall. This of course places the engine in the factory spec location, and you will have plenty of room for radiator fan options.

Then all that is left is setting the correct height. The tcase mount mounted to the factory crossmember will also set the correct lean angle of the 3RZ, as it leans to the passenger's side.

If you can take some pictures of your oil pan to front diff. clearances that would be interesting to see. I don't know whatever happened to ifssucks or his conversion...

Regards,
BigMike

[malodin [OP]]

Thanks, for the words of encouragement bigmike, those pictures were with the motor/tranny/tcase all bolted together and the crossmember for the tranny bolted up aswell.  i will get some pictures of the clearances, right now ive got the head off and the block sitting in the engine bay without the tranny hooked up so i can play around trying to figure out motor mounts(seeing as how someone wont help me:) ) one thing i noticed is the stock "steering stabilizer" has to be moved, if you unbolt it, drop it down you gain like 6" worth of clearance to the diff, i dont see this as a problem because as long as you relocate the steering stabilizer it shouldnt effect anything

[malodin [OP]]

well sorry its been soooo long since ive touched on this post, i actually have not had worked on it since this last post, as my friend david and i's hours have changed drastically so its just sitting in the garage waiting for us to get back to it.  i am curious as if they have released 3rzfe conversion motor mounts for the ifs trucks as of yet?

[malodin [OP]]

so after 5yrs of not working on this thing. i am finally back on it...utoh!!!  well after life/baby/job changes got in the way i finally have a 40x40 shop to start working on things(actually have had it now for 4yrs or so) but this has been on the way back burner lol.

so i have been working the past few weeks on it (thursdays/fridays) and have the motor mounts built and will report back with some of my findings. but for now here are some pictures!

reassembling the motor after a thorough inspection











here it is sitting back in the truck after 5+yrs

[malodin [OP]]

now on to the motor mount build

started with these, just some 3/16 square tubing and some motor mount bushings i found online(about 2" circle iirc)


then used the factory plate i had cut off from the original motor mount(which in hindsight 5+yrs ago i should have left alone, you will see why on the drivers side mount)






here it is geting the frame plates mocked up onto the passenger side motor mount


the passengerside frame mount finished

[malodin [OP]]

so now onto the drivers side.

i used the drivers side mount and simply cut the shape out for the bushings

those center bushings you see in the rubber mount are actually valve guides, they fit way better than any bolts i could find and i was then able to use iirc a 5/16" bolt(now i know this is a metric vehicle so i will either find some m10/m12's that fit in that hole or just call it good)









the welds may not look to good, this was training day for a couple of my friends that have been helping out.

[malodin [OP]]

having layed the power steering pump resevoire level in the truck with a 3deg rake to the back and 0 left to right this is what i have found that becomes a problem.

the t100 oilpan fits but rubs on the steering arm when the steering is strait ahead, this could be allivieated by raising the block up just a few degrees(by drilling the holes in the plate) but i didnt want to do that.  Also as said in my first post i had to remove the steering stabilizer, most likely i will just build a drop bracket for this and call it good.

what i did for the rubbing on the oil pan was to take the oilpan off the motor place it in my harborfreight press and find a 2" pipe and lay it accross where the rub mark was on the oil pan and simply press the pipe into the oil pan so it made a cut out of it(this was after cruising the wrecking yards to find an oil pan for a 22r and ifs, however junkyards here dont sell oilpans so i could only see how one looked, it was simply shaped to fit around the steering bar and steering stabalizer). 

another thing to note is this truck has a lift kit on it(believe 3 or 4") but its an ifs drop to it, so that allowed me to set the motor in there pretty far down(i am not sure how it would have gone without the lift, seems the motor is just barely low enough as is now)

will get more pics up as i go