Author Topic: Back from the dead, 92 xtra cab! (Read 100136 times)

Phazertwo · « **Reply #210 on:** Nov 30, 2009, 07:30:06 PM »

So much for getting it slammed together. seems my tranny is leaking out of the intermediate plate. Guess i get to learn more about this tranny than I want too.....

86toyota · « **Reply #211 on:** Nov 30, 2009, 07:52:33 PM »

what gasket sealant did you use when you put your cases back together? Paper gaskets or store bought sealant?

Quote from: Phazertwo on Nov 29, 2009, 05:55:51 PM

I actually worked on my truck!

I also got the cases out, to fix my nasty leak.

Inch worm has changed the design of there V-6 adapter since I bought it a few years back. I called them and they upgraded mine for $45. Here is the adapter, with its new insert.

+

=

Pic is kinda confusing, but it will make more sense when I take a pic of it installed!

Also, here is my cross member that I bent up real quick. If you look hard at the t-cases you can see the tube it mounts to on the back.

Hopefully I can get some of this slammed back together tomorrow, and start work on my front axle, and my new carrier bearing mount!

PZ

86toyota · « **Reply #212 on:** Nov 30, 2009, 07:53:32 PM »

My tranny is also leaking there. Havent tore it apart yet. Post some pics of how that goes so i know what im getting into

Quote from: Phazertwo on Nov 30, 2009, 07:30:06 PM

So much for getting it slammed together. seems my tranny is leaking out of the intermediate plate. Guess i get to learn more about this tranny than I want too.....

Phazertwo · « **Reply #213 on:** Nov 30, 2009, 08:48:55 PM »

Quote from: 86toyota on Nov 30, 2009, 07:52:33 PM

what gasket sealant did you use when you put your cases back together? Paper gaskets or store bought sealant?

The paper gaskets that came with it. I found the problem, and it will have to be sealed with ULTRA RTV if it is to be sealed at all! I can thank inch worm for that one!

Quote from: 86toyota on Nov 30, 2009, 07:53:32 PM

My tranny is also leaking there. Havent tore it apart yet. Post some pics of how that goes so i know what im getting into

I will try to remember to take pics as I do it. I will also be using ULTRA RTV for that one as well.

PZ

86toyota · « **Reply #214 on:** Dec 01, 2009, 09:09:25 PM »

thats exactly what i was gonna use....or right stuff. cant decide haha

deadicatedweim · « **Reply #215 on:** Dec 04, 2009, 03:33:06 AM »

How much was taken out of your bed when it was bobbed? Or how long is your bed now?

Phazertwo · « **Reply #216 on:** Dec 04, 2009, 01:06:10 PM »

14" out

PZ

Phazertwo · « **Reply #217 on:** Dec 06, 2009, 07:28:43 PM »

So, I cracked the tranny today!

Got up this morning and it looked like this out...

Out side and inside temp

Garage Temp, much better, still chilly!

Anyway, the first step is to take off the bell housing. 9 14mm bolts

Than you have to take out the first shifter de-tent. This is a T-40 screw.

This is what you will find behind the T-40 screw.

Next, pop the shift tower. 4 12mm bolts

Than take the set bolt out of the shifter socket. 1 10mm bolt

This will just loosen the shifter socket, it will slid out when you pull the case halves apart.

Than remove the case half bolts ~10 14mm bolts, with one that is much longer than the others.

Than pull the t-case extension off. I used a small plastic mallet to help out.

Than remove the front seal housing. 8 12mm botls. Make sure to check the seal inside to see if it needs replaced while you have all of this apart!!!

Than remove the snap rings that hold both the upper and the lower bearings in place.

Now you are ready to separate the front half from the intermediate plate.

I used screwdriver to break the seal, than I had to hit it pretty good with the ol' rubber mallet. Sorry no pics, it took all my hands!

This is what you are left with!

NOTE: REMEMBER THAT THIS NEEDS TO BE VERY VERY CLEAN WHEN YOU RE-ASSEMBLE!!!! TRY VERY VERY HARD NOT GET GET BITS OF CRAP, INCLUDING RTV, IN THE BEARINGS AND GEARS!!!!!!

While its out, its a good idea to clean this magnet. I could only get about 80% of the crap off of mine, but hey, its 80% better than it was!

Now you are ready to clean all of your surfaces! make sure too keep the gears and bearings clean, and clear.

This tranny re-assembles in the same way it came apart, very easy. I didn't take any pics because it would have been the same thing but backwards

Here are some great links to help out!
The FSM can be downloaded here. It has a good section on the R150 tranny! I actually printed the disassembly and reassembly pages out, it will help keep you from forgetting steps, just don't go all the way, it will have you tearing the intermediate plate down, and you don't want that!
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

Most likely you will have this problem when you are done, easy easy fix!
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=55669.0;highlight=r150+shift

not a hard project, just time consuming. Took me the better part of a day!
PZ

THK Matt · « **Reply #218 on:** Dec 09, 2009, 12:34:58 PM »

reasoning for tearing the trans down?

Phazertwo · « **Reply #219 on:** Dec 09, 2009, 06:14:18 PM »

Quote from: Phazertwo on Nov 30, 2009, 07:30:06 PM

So much for getting it slammed together. seems my tranny is leaking out of the intermediate plate. Guess i get to learn more about this tranny than I want too.....

Phazertwo · « **Reply #220 on:** Dec 12, 2009, 04:53:50 PM »

Tranny and transfer cases back in!

Here is my list of

to get done before I go back to school!

Rebuild both front knuckles w/ SST
Pull rear diff and check (gears whine. I botched the set up, it was my first time!)
Build a new carrier bearing mount.
Get new spring perches and change pinion angle (maybe)
New u-bolts on the front axle.
Build a battery mounting bracket for the yellow top

I also have to lay flooring on the main floor in my house so that I can clear the couches out of my storage unit, and save some $$$!
Busy Busy

PZ

Phazertwo · « **Reply #221 on:** Dec 19, 2009, 02:08:25 PM »

So I pulled my front axle apart, well the passenger side anyway. The birf had separated from the shaft somehow, and chipped the

out of the inside of the ball. Weird thing is is that I can't get the birf and axle shaft to come completely apart?! I have never had this happen before with any of the birfs I have taken apart.

Anyway, seems like when I attempted the shaft in the tube trick it re-seated the birf, and it seams like the snap ring inside the bell expanded beyond what its suppost to... I broke my PVC "birf buster", and am unsure on what to do next. Any ideas?

PZ

Jordan7118 · « **Reply #222 on:** Dec 20, 2009, 04:00:37 AM »

Steel pipe birf buster

Phazertwo · « **Reply #223 on:** Dec 20, 2009, 08:35:31 AM »

Thats kinda what I was thinking. Tho I have NEVER needed anything more than PVC to separate them in the past.

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #224 on:** Dec 20, 2009, 01:13:22 PM »

the tube through the rear of your frame that is capped off...... pull a plug and its a magic little birf buster

$Beer Chug\'n$

86toyota · « **Reply #225 on:** Dec 20, 2009, 07:09:34 PM »

love the pics of the trany!! thanks...gonna help out ALOT!!

Phazertwo · « **Reply #226 on:** Dec 20, 2009, 09:20:30 PM »

Quote from: 86toyota on Dec 20, 2009, 07:09:34 PM

love the pics of the trany!! thanks...gonna help out ALOT!!

Glad I could help!

Phazertwo · « **Reply #227 on:** Dec 20, 2009, 09:22:14 PM »

Quote from: twistedtoy92 on Dec 20, 2009, 01:13:22 PM

the tube through the rear of your frame that is capped off...... pull a plug and its a magic little birf buster $Beer Chug\'n$

That is a fantastic idea, however, I don't think i will even be able to come close with it at that angle. I will need to be able to swing it down as hard as I can... I think my buddy has a piece of pipe I can borrow!
PZ

Phazertwo · « **Reply #228 on:** Dec 22, 2009, 03:08:32 PM »

This is the most stubborn shaft EVER! AHHH!

boggerunner · « **Reply #229 on:** Dec 22, 2009, 04:33:12 PM »

ive always put the inner shaft in a vise, and used a dead blow to pop the birf off

Phazertwo · « **Reply #230 on:** Dec 22, 2009, 07:19:27 PM »

First off, couple of these showed up Monday!

Got it apart!! And I found the cause of my leaky crap... doesn't even look like I need the SST...
Look a little messed up?

Thats because it is. It came out of its groove, and slid towards the seal, allowing the inner shaft to slid further into the birf.

The damage!

You can see how Marlins seal was trying to seal behind the sealing surface.

And this is why the damn thing would not come apart. Finally got it with some 2in square tube, and about 20 slams on concrete!

After that got the new bushings installed.

I was afraid to take the new Marlin super seal out. Look like it would be a HUGE pain compared to the old ones.

less than 1 minute latter!

and this should help get them back in.

I will replace the shaft and birf with my spares, and run those as spares. I will try out the SST tomorrow just to see how it works, can't wait to get this bad boy back together!

PZ

Stampy · « **Reply #231 on:** Dec 23, 2009, 08:47:51 AM »

Great build up! Just read though from start to finish

Phazertwo · « **Reply #232 on:** Dec 23, 2009, 01:03:44 PM »

Quote from: Stampy on Dec 23, 2009, 08:47:51 AM

Great build up! Just read though from start to finish

Thank you!

Phazertwo · « **Reply #233 on:** Dec 23, 2009, 08:22:34 PM »

Got all the measurements with the SST. I am to tired/hungry to post up the pics now. I will get on it in the AM... For now

than

PZ

Yota87Truck · « **Reply #234 on:** Dec 24, 2009, 07:49:44 AM »

Nice Build!

Phazertwo · « **Reply #235 on:** Dec 24, 2009, 08:20:47 AM »

Quote from: Yota87Truck on Dec 24, 2009, 07:49:44 AM

Nice Build!

Thank you!

Phazertwo · « **Reply #236 on:** Dec 24, 2009, 08:23:58 AM »

Ok, so on to the SST!

Here is the SST

Here are the pages that I used out of the FSM.

First off you need to remove the inner seal from the axle housing.

Than using both adapters like this,

Insert them into the housing where the seal was.

Than insert the scribe.

NOTE: This next step is very important other wise the SST will not work! I tried to do this after the shaft was installed and when I took it apart it wiped my line! Be sure to run th bearing back and fourth over the compound!

Next, put a light coating grease on the trunnion bearing, than a light coating of a marking compound around the shaft ~ the middle. Than take the trunnion bearing and slide it up and down the shafts to smooth out the compound into a even coat. Install the bearing on the shaft.

Than install the whole assembly into the knuckle ball. Make sure to use both trunnion bearings!

Tighten the nut until the pull scale reads 7-13lbs (I found that that was allot of variance and decided to go with 10lbs)

Phazertwo · « **Reply #237 on:** Dec 24, 2009, 08:25:23 AM »

Follow step E to measure distance "A" from page FA-54 of the FSM.
Here is what I got.

Follow step F to measure distance "B" on page FA-54 of the FSM.
Here is what I got.

Now you are ready to scribe lines. Simply pull the scribe out with your fingers so that it is pressed against the shaft, and rotate the shaft.

Remove the shaft from the knuckle ball, be VERY careful not to wipe your line away!!

Than using 4 of the 8 bolts, and 2 washers per bolt (so the bolts don't bottom out with out the backing plate installed) install the spindle onto the knuckle.

install the SST into the knuckle, make sure you put the adapter and the scribe in first!! Make sure that the side of the shaft that was in the bottom of the knuckle ball is in the bottom of the knuckle!

you don't need to torque this, just tighten it up enough that you can still rotate it with you fingers, and scribe the new line.

Now measure the difference between the lines. This is distance "D" from page FA-55.
Here is what I got.

Here is my calculation sheet.

The difference between distance "A" and "B" is distance "C" or the over all shim thickness (top and bottom).
So total shim thickness is "C"
"C" = "A" - "B"

So Lower shim thickness is "E"
"E" = "D" - .12

So upper shim thickness is "F"
"F" = "C" - "E"

Phazertwo · « **Reply #238 on:** Dec 24, 2009, 08:34:39 AM »

I am going to redo all of this to make sure I get similar answers.

seems to me I have markings on the top of the ball where something was hitting in when it was at full steer. So I kinda guessed that I would need more shims on the bottom, not the top..... Or does more shims on the top move the knuckle up? Seems to me it would move it down....

Any ideas?

PZ

Phazertwo · « **Reply #239 on:** Dec 24, 2009, 10:41:34 AM »

And I lost way to much time to this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2BgjH_CtIA&NR=1

Time to go work on my truck...

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