My rig is the exact same setup, except mine is a '94. I too removed my ABS from the mix, as ABS is really designed for panicky people who like to stand on the brake pedal.
ABS has no business being off-road anyway.
I left my actuator installed, as my power steering is plumbed to it (which provides the pumping action when ABS decides to kick in at unwanted times). I did however, re-plumb my rear brake line, bypassing the actuator altogether and simplifying the brake system. At the same time, I
-canned my LSPV during this project. The LSPV makes as much sense as ABS in my mind.
In your second pic, you're pointing at the rear line. This should route to an "L" located on the passenger side wheel well. From this "L" junction, it routes forward to the ABS actuator. From there, it routes back to the LSPV and then to the drums. There is a return line that routes back toward the front that ties in with the "T", providing extra fluid when the LSPV decides to starve the rear drums. Apologies if you already know this info; just laying out the architecture.
Here's what I did:
GOAL = rid myself of ABS and the LSPV. While some folks will provide resistance to this theory, I have loved it and never regretted it.
Step 1: I purchased 10ft of Earl's braided hose at Summit Racing (EAR-610003ERL). In conjunction, you must also purchase two ends (EAR-640303ERL). This was the easiest way to get a custom line all the way back. This line will connect to the "L" junction (mentioned earlier) and connect directly to the flexible line that was routed to the LSPV. You've now bypassed the LSPV and can remove that POS. While this setup isn't DOT approved (why would it be, because I did it); it far exceeds DOT specifications, when installed properly. If you are good at bending brake line, you could reuse the return line and use it instead of the braided line. A decent bender will cost ~$5 and if you take your time and plan out the bends, this is a good option. I tried this and it looked like crap, so I had to replace.
Step 2: Disconnect the return line coming from the rear that connects to the left-hand side of the "T". Plug that hole one of two ways. Get a 10mm 1.0 bolt and plug it; works, but not too sexy. Or, remove the "T" and fill the hole with a weld. Grind it smooth and you have a VERY strong "L". I started with the bolt plugging the hole, but I hated it. Be sure to set your voltage low when filling this pup, because you'll melt the hell of it.
Step 3: You've now bypassed the LSPV and the ABS. All you have left are extra brake lines running all over the place. My advice is to cut it in several places (especially near bends, turns, etc.). Start dissected them from your rig. If your actuator is staying put, plug the holes with 2 x 10mm 1.0 bolts and you're all set. I made some custom plugs using old bleeder screws.
While I only listed 3 steps, it's actually quite a process and takes some time figuring things out. I'll take some pics of my setup, if you need reference points. BTW, I considered installing a proportional valve, but haven't seen the need for it. You'll see write-ups on proportioning valves and guys locking up their brakes without one. Sure, your tires will lock the first time you jump on the brakes, but that is typically your rear shoes settling into position. They won't lock up after a couple good hard brakes. I don't have an issue with locking up the rear, because I don't tail-gate and try not to speed. I just drive to the conditions of the road. Pretty simple...
P.S. Do yourself a favor and get some speed bleeders (RUS-639560). If you don't already have them, you'll be pissed you went this long without 'em. They make bleeding your brakes almost fun.
If you need more specifics, let me know... I'm happy to share my experiences.
