Topic: 22rte

[davidt]

I am picking up my motor on saturday, here is what it comes with
coil
ECU's
radiator
fan
altenator
top part of the airbox that contains the mass air flow sensor
intake tube
a short part of the exhaust tube that has the flange for the exhaust manifold
Am I missing anything?  Anybody know of a good writeup on a 22re to a 22rte motor?  Thanks in advance!

[davidt [OP]]

ttt...anybody?

[Sundowner]

I just did the same swap in my 84 4runner. sounds like you got all the big stuff.
the harness for the engine and the dash would have been nice to have, but you can work around that.

[davidt [OP]]

I have the motor and the truck and it runs!  Now I just need to get the darn thing to run right.  It runs VERY rich.  I checked the MAF, and it is very clean.  The vacuum system is hooked up correctly.  Now it runs very rich and seems like it is missing.  Also, the check engine light is on, but I can't seem to find the computer to short it and check the codes.  The check engine light does, however, flash when I push on the accelerator peddle.  The old diagnostic port was on the passenger fender connected to the wiring harness, but the new harness doesn't have it in the same spot (truck is an 87, motor is an 86).  I am at a loss, any other ideas as to what may be wrong would be greatly appreciated

[Skinny_Pedal]

i would adjust your afm. that could also cause the miss. to check your codes there going to be a black boc on the passenger fender the said DIAGNOSTIC, if you dont have that setup, then go to your drivers side fender and your going to have about 3 or 4 unused yellow plugs. if memory serves me right its going to be a smaller one with only to straight holes in it. thats what you ground out to check your codes.

[davidt [OP]]

how do I adjust the

i would adjust your afm. that could also cause the miss. to check your codes there going to be a black boc on the passenger fender the said DIAGNOSTIC, if you dont have that setup, then go to your drivers side fender and your going to have about 3 or 4 unused yellow plugs. if memory serves me right its going to be a smaller one with only to straight holes in it. thats what you ground out to check your codes.

how do I adjust the AFM?

[Skinny_Pedal]

pull the balck cover off it. and adjust the gear accordingly. if that helps be sure to reseal it

[Sundowner]

I have the motor and the truck and it runs!  Now I just need to get the darn thing to run right.  It runs VERY rich.  I checked the MAF, and it is very clean.  The vacuum system is hooked up correctly.  Now it runs very rich and seems like it is missing.  Also, the check engine light is on, but I can't seem to find the computer to short it and check the codes.  The check engine light does, however, flash when I push on the accelerator peddle.  The old diagnostic port was on the passenger fender connected to the wiring harness, but the new harness doesn't have it in the same spot (truck is an 87, motor is an 86).  I am at a loss, any other ideas as to what may be wrong would be greatly appreciated

you've discovered the same problem I have.
22re trucks have the diagnostics plug on the engine harness, 22rte trucks have the diagnostics plug(s) on the body harness. you used a rte engine harnes with a re body harness, hence, you now have no check connector. fun, huh?

check your 02 sensor. the 22re harness has the wire for the 02 sensor comingform the passenger fender and the 22rte wire for the o2 sensor is part of the engine harness. make sure you hooked up the right wire, I'll bet you've got an extra really long singe wire connector hanging off the top of you engine and you don't know where it goes

[davidt [OP]]

you've discovered the same problem I have.
22re trucks have the diagnostics plug on the engine harness, 22rte trucks have the diagnostics plug(s) on the body harness. you used a rte engine harnes with a re body harness, hence, you now have no check connector. fun, huh?

check your 02 sensor. the 22re harness has the wire for the 02 sensor comingform the passenger fender and the 22rte wire for the o2 sensor is part of the engine harness. make sure you hooked up the right wire, I'll bet you've got an extra really long singe wire connector hanging off the top of you engine and you don't know where it goes

Soooo, what did you do about the check engine light problem?  What year did your motor come from?  Do you have any pictures of the engine compartment?  Thanks!

[Sundowner]

right now I'm running a spliced in jumper lead between the T1 and E1 feds to the ECU. I have a $2 toggle switch hidden behind the passenger side kick panel that covers the computer. it works, but I'm gonna try to properly work in a diagnostic port now that the weather's warmer.

here's some pics of the motor when I built it and after I installed it.
mine's pretty modded. I run a bigger t3 turbo from a merkur xr4ti and a top mount intercooler I swiped from a Supra. there's internal engine and exhaust upgrades to help that all along, too.

dwas the 02 sensor the problem for you?

be careful, these pictures are huge

http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/intercool1.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/intercool3.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/hood1.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/turbo1.jpg
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/turbo3.jpg

[davidt [OP]]

right now I'm running a spliced in jumper lead between the T1 and E1 feds to the ECU. I have a $2 toggle switch hidden behind the passenger side kick panel that covers the computer. it works, but I'm gonna try to properly work in a diagnostic port now that the weather's warmer.

here's some pics of the motor when I built it and after I installed it.
mine's pretty modded. I run a bigger t3 turbo from a merkur xr4ti and a top mount intercooler I swiped from a Supra. there's internal engine and exhaust upgrades to help that all along, too.

dwas the 02 sensor the problem for you?

be careful, these pictures are huge

http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/intercool1.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/intercool3.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/hood1.JPG
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/turbo1.jpg
http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/turbo3.jpg

Ok...the o2 sensor was hooked up correctly, but the one of the studs on the turbo broke off, so it is leaking like a mother!  Could this be the problem?  The engine is running so rich, that it actually fouled the plugs and I had to clean them off before it would even start. 

Here comes the weird part. under neath the plenum, there are two 6 pin harnesses.  They plug in to eachother, but I am not sure if they should be plugged in together.  Any help would be appreciated!  The pictures are very crappy, but kind of show the colors.  The white plug goes in to the blue plug.  The wiring of the two plugs goes as follows

Inner Connector
(Top row)             White   /                Black             /   Yellow with White stripe
(Bottom row)        Brown   /   Green with red stripe    /    White with black stripe

Outer Connector
(Top row)            Teal with yellow stripe  /  Teal with black stripe      /   White with black stripe
(Bottom row)        Yellow with red strip   /                 Teal              /    Empty

[Sundowner]

ok, which stud broke? one of the four that hold the turbo onto the exhasut manifold, itself, or one of the three that hold the downpipe elbow (and the o2 sensor) onto the back side of the turbo? in either event, that could be where your problem comes from. ouside air might be getting in and lying to the 02 sensor. this isn't uncommom with the RTE motors, so don't feel bad. toyota neglected to put a flexjoint in the exhasut piping off the backside of the turbo, and the housings tend to crack and the studs tend to give out.  good part is that that isn't a special stud, you can swipe one from the head of your old motor, its the same the regular 22re exhaust manifold stud.


the two 6-pin connectors are for an automatic transmission, IIRC. there's some wires in there your'e gonna have to ferret out for your usage, like 4wd and reverse. 4x4wire.com has a sticky post in the early toyota truck forum that has the whole 85 and 94 fsm's in .pdf format. the wirne colors never really change, so you should be able to track down wire colors there. if it gets too confusing, PM me and I'll try to dig up some of my old notes. just so you know, white with balck stripe is a ground, black is a 12v feed. teal doesn't sound right, it's probably a faded green.

as a  last note, did you double check all your engine grounds? there's the one on the back of the head to the firewall, the one from the pass. side frame to the engine mount, and there's the one with a couple white/black stripe wires from the harness to the plenum.

[davidt [OP]]

the stud that holds the downpipe elbow (and 02 sensor).

I have the one from the head to the firewall, but not the pass side frame to engine mount.  Also, I don't think I have the one with the couple of white/black stripe wires and red (I think) from the harness to the plenum.  Thanks for your help!

[Sundowner]

soulds like we're getting closer!
you're gonna have to replace that elbow stud, and that's gonna suck, but these things happen. if you have to pull the turbo off to do it, be careful with the combination flange for the oil feed and drain line when you disconnect it. they're fragile and have a tendency to rust. and there's a metal plate gasket between the turbo and the exhaust manifold. dont' throw it out! they're reusable and they're expensive to replace from the Stealer.

[davidt [OP]]

Update,  I took the turbo off and it is trashed.  The housing by the waste gate has cracked completely off.  There is now a huge hole next to the waste gate.  i showed it to one of my friends (diesel mech. for dodge) and he said that it is the weirdest thing he has ever seen.  So, I need a turbo.  If I can get a ct20 for cheap I would rather go that route.  I was also thinking of maybe putting a ct26 on, doesn't seem like there are too many mods necessary and it doesn't seem like it is much bigger.  Also, what mods are necessary to put it on, is it worth the time?  Thanks in advance!

[Sundowner]

CT-26 is a good turbo but they can be a pain to adapt, and there's no telling with a used turbo if it's good or not. this is further complicated by the fact that there are two CT-26's out there: one for the 3.0L supras and one for the 2.0L alltrac celicas/mr2's. (you'd want the supra one) if you just want to get back on the road in a time effieicent manner, you'll want to get another CT-20. if you have a small mig welder and can use it, then you amy want to consider a domestic turbo like a garret T-3. Given you're probably a little miffed about the whole involved process you're going through getting this engine working, I'd reccomend that you get the truck back to stock and then we can talk modifications when you want more out of it. So what I would do in your shoes is check ebay for a core CT-20 that doesn't have a cracked exhaust housing, or troll car-part.com for a rebuilder turbo with a good exhaust housing. Then find a local rebuilder or ship it out to have it rebuilt. I've had really good luck with blaastperformance.com. They're French-Canadian, but no one is perfect. I paid them $100 to rebuild a garret I shipped to them and they did a very professional job of it. for your purposes, figure the turbo core is gonna run you $50-$120, and the rebuild plus shipping is gonna run you $150.

[davidt [OP]]

Update, haven't been able to find a good used turbo, I did, however find this on ebay...any opinions?  Thanks.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8054962531&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[robrub00]

this guy makes one for the 22rte as well
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-22RE-Turbo-Exhaust-Manifold-Garrett-T3-Celica_W0QQitemZ8056022802QQcategoryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemthis
Ive thought about ordering one I am just broke so I am going with the ct26,  Im not sure if that is water cooled or not,  are you taping your block for the oil lines for the turbo? good luck

[Sundowner]

a lot of people end up forced to swap. Iv'e swapped to a t3 myself. it's not physically hard, but it's a lot of plumbing. you will need to adapt your oil lines and water lines. I strongly reccomend that you get a water cooled turbo.  here's the big stuff:

adapter
you will either need to make or buy an adapter to mount the CT-20 to your exhaust manifold. jeff mosk (do a search) has the adapter schematic on his website. you can also buy a custom "log" manifold like that on ebay or from turbonetics. there are true turbo headers available like the one from LC engineering, but they're boku bucks ($500+) if you absoloutely positively cannot find an adapter pr an affordable manifold for a t3, then email me and I'll make one for you.

oil lines
you will need a 2 ft run of AN -4 line, a straight end, a 90 degree end, an AN adapter for the oil feed on the turbo and a 14 mm banjo adapter for the oil supply on the block. about a $50 chore line to make and install.
oil return you will need two flange plate adapters to 1/2" NPT lines, then use radiatior hose and homey D or Sears hardware 1/2" NPT barb fittings. abouit a $30 line

water
you will need two barb fittings (1/4" npt?) to re-run your stock lines to the new turbo, about $10

exhaust
custom fab time. you will need an adapter flange for the 3 bolt output on the t3, a 2.0" 90 degree pipe bend, an 02 bung for the sensor (DOA engines sells a good one) and you will have to downsize it to match your stock exhaust, or replace all of the exhaust tubing (I used 3")
expect to spend about $200 in exhaust parts and a solid day of cutting and welding pipe.

[davidt [OP]]

I can't find a good ct20 for sale.  The ones I have found are all about $125 and these are turbos that need a rebuild.  Throw in the cost of a rebuild, and I feel like I would be better off getting a rebuilt ct26.  So, the question still remains, will my stock system be able to handle a ct-26, or will I need to upgrade the fuel/ignition/etc.?



Some more info from a guy that did a ct-26 swap...
Since a couple of people have asked about it recently here is how I did it:

    When I bought my 1987 Toyota Truck with a 22RTE engine it had a dead
CT20 turbo. This is how I installed a CT26. I got a CT26 of off ebay.
I had to grind the mounting holes on the exhaust housing towards the
center. This allows it to fit on the 22RTE exhaust manifold. I ported
the exhaust manifold while I was at it especially the outlet using the
CT20 gasket as a template. The inlet of the CT26 is about the same
size as the hole in the gasket.
  Now take apart the turbo and clock the three sections to fit the truck.
I put the manifold on the truck with just the exhaust housing then put
the center section so that the oil feed/drain port pointed straight down
and marked the 2 sections to put them together later. The compressor
housing outlet is rotated also to a 45 degree angle looking from the
front of the truck. There are some pins between the sections that have
to be removed.
  The wastegate actuator from the CT26 works but you need to bend the rod
a little differently.
  Then I took the Supra feed/drain line and the 22RTE feed/drain line and
made one from the two. I used the 22RTE drain flange and pipe that go to
the block but the flange that goes to the turbo is from the Supra and I
retained the feed line that comes out of it. But then I had to use the
banjo fitting on the feed line from the 22RTE and solder it on the Supra
feed line so it will fit the feed port on the block.
  I took the intake pipe from the CT20 to the throttle body and cut off
the flange that bolts onto the CT20. The pipe is 2 pieces so I ground
off the weld and took that flange and short section of curved pipe out.
Then I welded in a short straight piece of 2"OD pipe. I got a radiator
hose with a 45-degree bend in it for the time being to connect the turbo
to the pipe. Got that, 45 degree turbo outlet plus 45 degree hose equals
pointing up to the intake pipe.
  Alright, next was the lower coolant pipe. The larger turbo hits it. I
got a "Cool Flex" pipe which is a bendable pipe and I re-routed it. The
hose that connects to the water pump, I took and trimmed it in half.
There is a return line from the heater core so I retained that portion
and connected the “Cool Flex” into the hose. Then I routed it back
around the engine mount and forward to a straight hose into the
radiator.
  Now from the air cleaner to the turbo I used the stock setup but with
modification. From the AFM on top of the air box there is a long hose, a
short section of pipe and then a 90-degree hose that goes to the turbo
inlet. The CT20 inlet is a smaller OD than the CT26. But on my truck
that 90-degree hose is 2 pieces. Like a laminated construction. I pulled
out the inner hose and trimmed it back because the outer hose fits
nicely on the CT26. But you need that inner part for that short section
of tube. I glued it back in with some silicone gasket maker.
  Finally a custom made down pipe. I got a 180-degree U bend, 2.5" OD pipe
with a fairly tight bend radius and chopped it into 2 90's. I had a
flange made. I couldn't find one but I know they are out there. Mine is
a rectangle with the four mounting holes and one 2.5" inch hole. With
the flange on I put one 90 going straight down and then the other goes
straight back. It has O2 sensor bung welded in just behind the flange.
  For the exhaust I got a braided flex pipe to connect to the downpipe to
take some stress off of it. From the flex pipe it is a straight piece of
tube, a Super Turbo on end and that takes it over the axle and then a
straight pipe with a downturn at the end.

And an Email I recieved from ben..

From: Benjamin Burke
Sent: Wed 4/12/2006 12:57 PM
To: David S Torres
Subject: Re: ct26

The truck has the CT26, 7MGTE throttle body, big AFM conversion, 440cc injectors, and low restriction cold air intake with cone K&N.
 
  I have the truck running. It runs really good. Good drivability and good power. I have an electronic boost controller and have played with the boost up to 13-14 psi. At that point it hits fuel cut.
 
  I don't drive the truck that much. It's a project vehicle. Progress has stalled due to time and money.
 
  The main issue I'm having is with the exhaust studs in the head. There are supposed to be 9 that hold on the manifold and most are stripped out. I have another head that I plan to do some mild port and chamber work to that has good studs in it. The exhaust manifold is leaking now and that's the worst thing for a turbo.
 
  I have a new manifold that I have done some port work to and will eventually get Jet Hot 2000 coated.
 
  I'm at a crossroads with the project now because I'm not sure exactly how the air/fuel ratio is. I think that is is running rich but I don't want to find out the hard way that's it's too lean. I either need to take it to a dyno or get a wideband oxygen sensor. Both are pricey.
 
  Let me know if you have more questions.
 
  Good Luck,
  Ben

David S Torres wrote:
  how is the ct-26 working out for you? Did you do anything else (I.E. bigger injectors, ecu reflash, etc?) Any more info or tips would be appreciated!

[Sundowner]

you cna't really upgrade the ignition, and the 22rte ecu can't be reflashed, it pre-firmware.
that guy is using supra turbo 440 cc injectors ( stock 22rte injectors are 295cc) and he's got a bigger AFM, but you have to swap around the resistor boards to get that to work. if you up to the supra injectors get a bigger pump. the walbro 255 is a good one

[davidt [OP]]

well, I am just going to run the ct-26 without any mods to the injectors or the afm (I hate smog ).  I was also thinking about doing the divorced waste gate mod on the downpipe with 3" exhaust,  any thoughts (pictures below)?    These are from the bic performance products page, I have a welder so I can do the same mod on the cheap   I am also going to do a donut flange on the exhaust instead of the flex pipe.

[Sundowner]

sounds like you have a plan.

make sure you get a boost gauge and use the wastegate actuator from the ct-20 turbo. I believe the one on the supra pops the wastegate at about 10psi, and you stock 22rte fuel system will run out of steam at about 7psi.

I don't see alot of benefit to the divorced wastegate for the 22rte. our redline is at about 5500 rpm, and that mod probably only helps at full-on boost at the end of the tach range on the 7mgte. but hewy, if you've got the time and the tools, give it a go. just keep in mind that that's a congested area where the downpipe goes, so plan your tubing routes very carefully.

and were I you, I'd still go with the flex joint. they're $35 on ebay, I see no reason in the world to mess around with a ball joint on an engine that moves that much.

[davidt [OP]]

SOOOOO...I decided to put another ct-20 turbo on my truck.   After that was done,it still ran fat as hell.  So I took it to my homies shop.  We checked fuel pressure, vacuum, turbo boost, compression, O2 sensor, egr, and a few other systems...all were fine.  Then we checked the timing.  It was 34 degrees   My guess is that it either skipped timing or someone put on a timing chain wrong.  My question is;
1. Can I fix this problem without taking the timing chain cover off?
2. If I have to take the timing chain cover off, can I do it without taking off the head?
3. Can I fix it at the gear on the cam without having to take it apart?
Thanks in advance for your help!
David

[Sundowner]

34* is a big freaking miss for a timing chain install.
at TDC on the #1 cylinder, you should be able to see the "bright" link on the timing chail line up with the dot on the camshaft gear. you will have to pull the valve cover to do this.
if you skipped a tooth.. or five, you can pull the timing ocver off without pulling the head. I typically do this by takign a razor knife to the headgasket part the sticks out to seal the timing cover to the head and disposing of it. it always gets crunched when you try to pus hteh timing cover back on. then I use the top of the timing cover to make a new gasket out of high temp gasket stock. any NAPA will have it in rolls. slater both sides in good RTV like Permatex ultra copper and gently ease it between the timing cover and the head after you have the timing cover back on.

[Rob_O]

my turbo truck had a broken connection on one of the injector wires. It ran fat as hell because 1 cylinder was pumping air and the ecu went full rich to compensate for the o2 levels in the exhaust. Still runs kinda rich but hits on all 4 now