Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread (Read 897701 times)

DieselD · « **Reply #390 on:** Jul 13, 2009, 06:47:11 PM »

dont forget about gears/crawl boxes. everything changes then.....

however good comparison info, should help alot of guys out. any 22re numbers to compare to these?

TacoRunner · « **Reply #391 on:** Jul 14, 2009, 12:33:52 AM »

Ya just for the hell of it, I did a dyno to see what would happen, sadley I did not get the file when I left the facility, but it was interesting. If I remember correctly the Hp when way down and torque went way up.

Nope I dont have any 22RE numbers.

seafarinman · « **Reply #392 on:** Jul 14, 2009, 12:57:45 AM »

My rig originally had a 3VZE. At 219,041 miles my SAS 3.0/R150F/VF1A rig on 5.29's/37's went to be reborn. I wanted a 3RZ-FE but "settled" for a 2RZ-FE because I got mine for $600 with complete engine, ECM, harness, radiator, and 2WD bellhousing and trans. I also have an OBX 3RZ header/Competition Clutch 1620 Stage 4 sprung six puck street/strip clutch. I know that it has 8HP/17TQ less than a 3RZ but I am going to build up a 2RZ block with a 3RZ crank and custom ground cams. I also have the MC bellhousing/R151F turbo tranny, and 2.28/4.7 gearset with 5.29's for 244:1. Still running leafs as my rig is my DD/hauler/crawler. I am running 37" MTR's and I get 25mpg- drove from Seattle to Portland and back on a half tank of gas! Special thanks to Crash for the great work on the engine/turbo tranny/dual case install.

The 2RZ-FE build thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=693825&highlight=2rz+fe+swap

DieselD · « **Reply #393 on:** Jul 14, 2009, 08:50:38 AM »

Quote from: TacoRunner on Jul 14, 2009, 12:33:52 AM

Ya just for the hell of it, I did a dyno to see what would happen, sadley I did not get the file when I left the facility, but it was interesting. If I remember correctly the Hp when way down and torque went way up.

Nope I dont have any 22RE numbers.

sounds about right, once you start reducing your final drive ratio your torque is going to go up and hp down but obvioulsy not what your looking for in a daily driver/weekend trail beater either since you will not be rolling down the highway in double low! Im excited to see how mine does in the rocks espessially bumping waterfalls and such. with your numbers looks like the 2rz is far more rev happy than a 3rz which again is due to the stroke differences. should be fun boucing it off the rev limiter then!

Quote from: seafarinman on Jul 14, 2009, 12:57:45 AM

My rig originally had a 3VZE. At 219,041 miles my SAS 3.0/R150F/VF1A rig on 5.29's/37's went to be reborn. I wanted a 3RZ-FE but "settled" for a 2RZ-FE because I got mine for $600 with complete engine, ECM, harness, radiator, and 2WD bellhousing and trans. I also have an OBX 3RZ header/Competition Clutch 1620 Stage 4 sprung six puck street/strip clutch. I know that it has 8HP/17TQ less than a 3RZ but I am going to build up a 2RZ block with a 3RZ crank and custom ground cams. I also have the MC bellhousing/R151F turbo tranny, and 2.28/4.7 gearset with 5.29's for 244:1. Still running leafs as my rig is my DD/hauler/crawler. I am running 37" MTR's and I get 25mpg- drove from Seattle to Portland and back on a half tank of gas! Special thanks to Crash for the great work on the engine/turbo tranny/dual case install.

The 2RZ-FE build thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=693825&highlight=2rz+fe+swap

I followed that build and it came out well, how is the2rz doing in a heaver generation truck? that was my same situation. too good of a deal to pass up on the 2rz. Ill do my whole swap way less then it would cost me just to get a decent 3rz

TacoRunner · « **Reply #394 on:** Jul 14, 2009, 09:27:06 AM »

Quote from: seafarinman on Jul 14, 2009, 12:57:45 AM

My rig originally had a 3VZE. At 219,041 miles my SAS 3.0/R150F/VF1A rig on 5.29's/37's went to be reborn. I wanted a 3RZ-FE but "settled" for a 2RZ-FE because I got mine for $600 with complete engine, ECM, harness, radiator, and 2WD bellhousing and trans. I also have an OBX 3RZ header/Competition Clutch 1620 Stage 4 sprung six puck street/strip clutch. I know that it has 8HP/17TQ less than a 3RZ but I am going to build up a 2RZ block with a 3RZ crank and custom ground cams. I also have the MC bellhousing/R151F turbo tranny, and 2.28/4.7 gearset with 5.29's for 244:1. Still running leafs as my rig is my DD/hauler/crawler. I am running 37" MTR's and I get 25mpg- drove from Seattle to Portland and back on a half tank of gas! Special thanks to Crash for the great work on the engine/turbo tranny/dual case install.

When you start this next build please post on here so we all can benefit.

seafarinman · « **Reply #395 on:** Jul 14, 2009, 07:34:42 PM »

Quote from: DieselD on Jul 14, 2009, 08:50:38 AM

sounds about right, once you start reducing your final drive ratio your torque is going to go up and hp down but obvioulsy not what your looking for in a daily driver/weekend trail beater either since you will not be rolling down the highway in double low! Im excited to see how mine does in the rocks espessially bumping waterfalls and such. with your numbers looks like the 2rz is far more rev happy than a 3rz which again is due to the stroke differences. should be fun boucing it off the rev limiter then!

I followed that build and it came out well, how is the2rz doing in a heaver generation truck? that was my same situation. too good of a deal to pass up on the 2rz. Ill do my whole swap way less then it would cost me just to get a decent 3rz

My 2RZ is great all around-but with the Flowmaster Super 44 it sounds like an angry rice rocket when its revved up! It took some getting used to with all the backlash from having so many gearboxes between the engine and wheels. I can climb hills(on the freeway) in a taller gear than I ever could with my 3VZ. I believe that maybe the reason that the 2RZ is more rev happy is because it lacks the extra moving parts that the 3RZ has (balance shafts, scissor gears) as well as having a smaller lighter flywheel and clutch. I was actually looking for a 3RZ flywheel when I got my 2RZ since Marlin doesn't make a clutch for the 2RZ (hint... hint...). Even with the smaller flywheel and clutch I have no problems since I have such an aggressive clutch. I would like more torque though and I think the modified cams and the 3RZ crank will address that.

seafarinman · « **Reply #396 on:** Jul 14, 2009, 07:46:24 PM »

Quote from: TacoRunner on Jul 14, 2009, 09:27:06 AM

When you start this next build please post on here so we all can benefit.

Of course. Unfortunately I also have a 1988 3VZ 4Runner with an engine that is in great condition with Downey headers so I might end up pulling it and selling it to swap my 2RZ that is in my truck into when the time comes. (I need to really think about getting rid of the Runner before I end up with 2 crawlers again!)

DieselD · « **Reply #397 on:** Jul 14, 2009, 08:01:08 PM »

Quote from: seafarinman on Jul 14, 2009, 07:46:24 PM

Of course. Unfortunately I also have a 1988 3VZ 4Runner with an engine that is in great condition with Downey headers so I might end up pulling it and selling it to swap my 2RZ that is in my truck into when the time comes. (I need to really think about getting rid of the Runner before I end up with 2 crawlers again!)

I know how that goes...I have an 88 extra cab begging for attention too. even have axles and crap laying around I could use on it

wslytoy · « **Reply #398 on:** Jul 21, 2009, 06:23:23 PM »

question guys... I have an 85 4Runner that was an automatic and came w/o a tach in the gauge cluster. I recently purchased a gauge cluster from a guy that came out of a 5spd. The tach does not work. Does anyone have any idea what needs to be done to make the 5spd tach work w/ my auto dash harness??? Thanks, Wes

jimbo74 · « **Reply #399 on:** Jul 21, 2009, 06:34:28 PM »

Quote from: wslytoy on Jul 21, 2009, 06:23:23 PM

question guys... I have an 85 4Runner that was an automatic and came w/o a tach in the gauge cluster. I recently purchased a gauge cluster from a guy that came out of a 5spd. The tach does not work. Does anyone have any idea what needs to be done to make the 5spd tach work w/ my auto dash harness??? Thanks, Wes

you need to run a line from the ignitor....

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48651.0

wslytoy · « **Reply #400 on:** Jul 21, 2009, 06:38:43 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Jul 21, 2009, 06:34:28 PM

you need to run a line from the ignitor....

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48651.0

sweet! You're the man!

zidaro · « **Reply #401 on:** Jul 23, 2009, 06:02:32 PM »

Quote from: coffee boy on Apr 24, 2009, 06:22:03 AM

Hey this guy. Since your motor is out, look at this little (expletive deleted) on the oil filter mount for me. The aluminum tab is in the way of using a tundra filter on there. It serves no purpose I can see but I can not get a really good look at it because it is in the truck. I want to know if I can just cut it off flush and use a bigger filter. Thanks.

dont see this ever was answered---
Yes, if you trim the side tab a bit you can then mount a standard KN HP3001 Larger filter instead of the puny taco filter.

boggerunner · « **Reply #402 on:** Jul 23, 2009, 07:58:18 PM »

the motor has been in my 4runner for the last few months now, i have another one halfway installed into an 84, but i know they use the same filter as a 22re

Steve_925 · « **Reply #403 on:** Jul 26, 2009, 08:02:40 PM »

anyone know what water temp the 2/3 rz should be running.

TacoRunner · « **Reply #404 on:** Jul 27, 2009, 09:08:46 AM »

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #405 on:** Jul 27, 2009, 11:00:57 AM »

Quote from: steve_925 on Jul 26, 2009, 08:02:40 PM

anyone know what water temp the 2/3 rz should be running.

yours been running hot?

Phantom_Allstar · « **Reply #406 on:** Jul 27, 2009, 01:31:58 PM »

does anyone know where to find a deceent 3rz?
I`ve been calling rancho toyota(whos price went from $1500 to $1800 in a weeek) every week for a month and checking craigs list from LA to SF for about three weeks, havent seen a thing

does anyone have any other ides?
also cheecked the local junkyards, they said not a chance....

any help would be awesome!!

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #407 on:** Jul 27, 2009, 01:52:57 PM »

they are all over here in oregon

Steve_925 · « **Reply #408 on:** Jul 27, 2009, 02:10:35 PM »

Quote from: TIMS89CRAWLER on Jul 27, 2009, 11:00:57 AM

yours been running hot?

it stays around 205-210 all the time. on a really hot day somtime itl get to 220 but thats the point that i let it cool down. it seems a little hot but theres no way im gonna get it to run at 190

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #409 on:** Jul 27, 2009, 02:13:02 PM »

what do you have for a gauge?

Steve_925 · « **Reply #410 on:** Jul 27, 2009, 02:23:24 PM »

cyberdyn, wich is crap. i have had them for 4 trips and all the numers are going out. i have checked it at the rad. with a temp gun and the gun reads about 10 degree cooler

jmsdad · « **Reply #411 on:** Jul 28, 2009, 12:56:55 PM »

Quote from: Phantom_Allstar on Jul 27, 2009, 01:31:58 PM

does anyone know where to find a deceent 3rz?
I`ve been calling rancho toyota(whos price went from $1500 to $1800 in a weeek) every week for a month and checking craigs list from LA to SF for about three weeks, havent seen a thing
does anyone have any other ides?
also cheecked the local junkyards, they said not a chance....

any help would be awesome!!

The price have gone way up since Jonathan left Rancho Toy Trucks...almost as bad as TAP.

If you're close to the bay area, there's one on craigslist.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1290657922.html

zippo · « **Reply #412 on:** Jul 28, 2009, 01:12:50 PM »

Quote from: jmsdad on Jul 28, 2009, 12:56:55 PM

The price have gone way up since Jonathan left Rancho Toy Trucks...almost as bad as TAP.

If you're close to the bay area, there's one on craigslist.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1290657922.html

I to am looking for a 3rz in washington. They are a pain to find. I wish i was closer, that is a good deal!!. One day i will find one....

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #413 on:** Jul 28, 2009, 01:21:21 PM »

I cant seem to get my OBD2 port to work for some reason... I have it hooked up as the schematic shows.. (dont have it in front of me or I would post what pin goes where from the plug)I just cant get a scanner to connect to the truck... I have an autoTap as well as a scangauge2 and neither will connect... has anyone ran into any issues with this or maybe with those scanners??? I know the scanners work as I tried them in other vehicles.... the scanners power up when I connect them to the port they just will not connect to the ECU for some reason.... and help is much appreciated! thanks in advance

*ROKTOY* · « **Reply #414 on:** Jul 28, 2009, 02:35:03 PM »

I'd check your connections and grounds.

Phantom_Allstar · « **Reply #415 on:** Aug 01, 2009, 08:44:49 AM »

the one in SF looks like a deal!
I`m trying to sign up with an auction company, just gotta see if my moms business license will work:p
I`v been watching the auctions for a couple days, a couple have gone for pretty cheap but its $195+ $400 deposit+ $200 per truck that you buy= kind of allot of money....

DieselD · « **Reply #416 on:** Aug 02, 2009, 10:21:49 PM »

mine only had 4 wires on the DLC. power, 2 grounds(1 chassis and the other on the engine harness) and the network wire going to E5.

mine is finally running
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/748295/img_0394.mov

*ROKTOY* · « **Reply #417 on:** Aug 03, 2009, 08:40:18 AM »

HOO RA.

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #418 on:** Aug 03, 2009, 09:05:10 AM »

Quote from: DieselD on Aug 02, 2009, 10:21:49 PM

mine only had 4 wires on the DLC. power, 2 grounds(1 chassis and the other on the engine harness) and the network wire going to E5.

mine is finally running
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/748295/img_0394.mov

ya thats exactly what I have hooked up... chassis ground tied to the other brown wire that grounds the engine harness... violet wire I believe goes to 12v. and the white wire to E5 of ecu.... I wonder why the hell mine doesnt work... I knew that was how it goes as I have went over the schematics multiple times with the same result.... hmmmm

DieselD · « **Reply #419 on:** Aug 03, 2009, 09:27:00 AM »

try and ground that white/black to the body

the white wire is the network so make sure it does not have a break inside the insulation or loose terminal. get your DVOM and test the wire itself.

pin 16 on the DLC should be 12v battery power and thats violet. make sure thats a true battery power and not a KOEO. I hooked mine to the KAM power wire that feeds the PCM

I just left my brown and white wires hooked up to the E5 and ran the power and ground.

I have not tested mine with a scan tool yet so all bets are off if it works. I would try a differnt scan tool, sometimes the generic ones do not work with everyvehicle. try another tacoma and compare to find out if you scan tool or now

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