Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread  (Read 609582 times)

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TacoRunner

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WOW... You must have pushed your engine back into your firewall pretty good. I couldn't do that on mine.
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DieselD

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nope...I didnt even remove the transmission or loosen the mount for it. I yanked the 22re, swapped bellhousings then stabbed the 2rz in its place. In theory it should be in the same place as the 22re. only after I had all the mounts in place did I loosen the trans to let everything find its home then tighten it all up.  Ill take a pic of the firewall clearance here in a bit

TacoRunner

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I can't hardly remember what mine looked like back then. I'll dig up some pics and see if I could have done a manual fan. I think I was lazy and didnt want to build a shroud
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potter85

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did you make those motor mounts give me some info on those. i think thoise are the nicest ones i have seen. and i need to make some
3rz in the making

looking for 38s

2 tundra 4.7l v8 soon to be sas'ed

DieselD

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of course I built them. I used the factory mount brackets that bolt to the engine, notched the ends of them with my plasma and welded a 2"x3" DOM sleeve with poly bushings that you can buy here http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Single-poly-bushing-with-DOM-sleeve_p_1197.html and build some tabs. I actually used tabs from ballistic that I modifed to fit what I needed. ITs way overkill for a mount but its simple, clean and wont fail. They are welded to the boxed engine/upper control arm mounts that have been left over from the axle swap. I wanted to remove them however it would have been more work then what it would be worth plus it worked well to have less tab to make of the space between motor and frame.

also remember with this type of mount you will get lots of vibration transmitted through the frame and in the cab. kinda of annoying for a daily driver. The plus side to these is your engine will not fall out of your chassis when you flop/roll it over which is why I built this style.

87pickup

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i had prett much the same amount or room between the fan and radiator with mine. All i had to do with the psc pump was drill out the thru holes in the pump since the 3rz bracket bolts are larger.That and throw some washers in the back of the pump between the pump and bracket. other than that it was easy.

DieselD

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I need to swing by and look at yours dude....

the through holes are pretty close to the pump body? no issues there? I really have not messed with it much as there are other things more pressing at the moment.

I got all my fuel lines hooked up too, well besides the tank. I took all the 86 stuff and moved it over. Its not perfect but about as good as its going to get unless I take straight line and bend if to fit my application.


87pickup

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its a little money but what i did for the fuel lines was take some soft copper tubing like for a icemaker and made basically 3 fuel line templates and took them buy a hose shop on 3rd ave and jefferson. They made me my pressure, return and evap line with barb fittings and the factory toyota fitting for the pressure line at the motor. it was like $107 for all 3 lines but turned out clean i think

TacoRunner

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Ok I looked at some of my older pics and I did have room for the old manual fan I just go lazy and didn't want to build a shround for it. Are you planning on building one or ???
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DieselD

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hell yeah if it comes down to that. I am anti electric fan if I can avoid it. a mech is so much more reliable and cools better. Im going to try the 22re fan and shroud(with some modification) and see how that does. I might end up running the taco stuff which I would need to build a shroud for due to the size

potter85

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well nice. looks like something someone would buy. was that the biggest bushing you could find. Bigger means less vibration hahaha
3rz in the making

looking for 38s

2 tundra 4.7l v8 soon to be sas'ed

DieselD

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thanks. its just something I had access to in my garage that was bought for some other project and never got used.  oh its going to vibrate but its a rock crawler not a cruiser.

so whats everyone doing for a speedo? I know marlin has the sensor you can screw onto the 86 mech sensor in the trans that gets your electronic signal for the taco wiring/ecu. however you cant run a cable too correct? is there another speedo head out there that is electronic? right now Im thinking about building a hybrid taco/hilux cluster. take taco speedo head and install it into my 86 cluster and just build a small harness to the ecu. in theory it should work

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Check the wiring diagram for your year truck there is a speed sensor built in to the stock speedo, it was used with the 22RE computer and the 22R emissions computer. If I remember right it is green with blue stripe wire that goes to the gauge cluster.

DieselD

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so you just run the cable and get the wire off the cluster? the taco wiring is a 2 wire sensor that goes to the pcm however.

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so you just run the cable and get the wire off the cluster? the taco wiring is a 2 wire sensor that goes to the pcm however.

Yep, the others a ground.

87pickup

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My speedo works good witht the 3rz so the speedo must be wired into the ors harness somewhere. The tach resistor mod worked well for the tach too.

potter85

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i am ordering the marlin adapter from mechanical to electric then to the dash... FYI if your putting a newer tranny into an older mechanical driven speedo truck inchworm makes an adapter. essentially the inverse of the marlin adapter
3rz in the making

looking for 38s

2 tundra 4.7l v8 soon to be sas'ed

TacoRunner

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Ok, here it is for you that want to know. The 3RZ Dyno results.
Spec's are:
95.5 year model Taco Engine
Stock flywheel and clutch, upgraded pressure plate
R151F Tranny/ By Marlin
Dual Cases
5.29 V6 Rear
37" x 12.50 R15 MTR's
American Eagle 15x8 Aluminum wheels

Dynoed at the wheels


Red line is the stock numbers
Green line is LCE series 1 cam /both intake and exhaust and stock manifold and no cam gear
Blue line is LCE cam and Doug Thorley headers
Black line is LCE cam and Doug Thorley and LCE cam gear
« Last Edit: Jul 09, 2009, 10:40:50 PM by TacoRunner »
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TacoRunner

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So that you can see what the Headers did all by them selves and nothing else to the motor, here is the Dyno from that run with the Stock Manifold overlaid on the image.

Here you can see what I mean by the components adding up. The headers by themselves dont do much but when combined with the other components it starts to hit harder.

Here the colors are reversed.
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Yeah, but that's lot's of $$$ for 18 H.P. and 5 FT/LBS

boggerunner

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im on my second 3rz swap, and i will be making a few sets of bolt in motor mounts to put the 3rz into any 22re truck.  they will be a replacement for the metal mount between the engine block and stock rubber mount.

Capt. Crawler

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I'm on my second 3rz swap, and i will be making a few sets of bolt in motor mounts to put the 3rz into any 22re truck.  they will be a replacement for the metal mount between the engine block and stock rubber mount.

I'd be interested to see those mounts and possibly purchase.
  I am planning to do this swap this winter.

TacoRunner

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Yeah, but that's lot's of $$$ for 18 H.P. and 5 FT/LBS

DONT LOOK AT PEAK POWER, IT'S IRRELEVANT. LOOK AT THE POWER AFTER 4K. There is good power being made. So tweak the bolt on parts and put that power under 3K and I've got my dream rig.

Stock was 108hp but there is a line running though it. So thats 10hp and 5ft lbs. Sorry bro.Remember thats at the wheels, on 37"s. I'd had a 35% lose from flywheel to rubber. So what are those numbers are the flywheel. And I really dont believe that the headers I chose are the best on the market. Personally after the number of headers I tried I learned alot. Not only about header design but also how most of these companies develop thire products. I believe that the best is yet to come for header design. Im working with Doug Thorley to produce a header that will produce more power. Also Im a believer that sometimes if not all the time where the power is made is more important than how much. Im currently experimenting with developing my own that I will dyno at the Doug Thorley facility and I hope to have available some time in the next year though Thorley.

The cams from LC are very good in my opinion. They're performance was excellent. The cam gear. I can still adjust it and maybe get a few more ft lbs from it. But that didn't cost much.

As for the 3RZ Tuning stories, Im also working with some different possibilities for computer upgrades which include timing adjustments and fuel delivery. I'd also like to do some dyno runs on throttle bodies and intake manifolds.

I know that in the Mag I said that I want 5VZ numbers but after the work involved and research I've done I really think that 20 ft lbs more at the wheels would really be killer on this motor. Fuel consumption could go down and freeways would be even easier. Im really just looking to make the most street friendly vehicle I can. Which sounds really strange on a crawler forum but its true. I want my truck to be as driver friendly as possible. Raw power is not my concern as much as power were its needed to make long road trips as easy as possible.
« Last Edit: Jul 10, 2009, 10:52:29 AM by TacoRunner »
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I'll Be watching, for the header and throttle body intake up grades and the computer too. I still think in the end a huffer is the way to go.

TacoRunner

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You may be right, in the end.  But if I can give everyone else a dyno sheet that tells them that the bolt on parts just dont cut it then great for everyone out there running a 2 or 3RZ. Then at that point all would know that a Blower is it.

I've already made one header for my own vehicle, and it is producing far better low-end numbers than anyone else's.
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Yep, you are right and I appreciate seeing the Dyno proof.

DieselD

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nice work! love the technical data/information here from your research. keep it up!

Im not too worried about streetable power on mine and really cant say how it will do in the rocks just yet so cant really say where more power would be better throughout the power band. my biggest issue with any header is getting it to fit my application. I need to have the exhuast up and out of the way and its pretty much a custom affair. If anything it would have to be a shorty header, then again realiable toyota engine is what Im after so getting crazy with mods on mine probably wont happen

TacoRunner

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Ok one more Dyno chart for you guys to look at.

2RZ motor 2WD with street size tires

comparission is between the SAME Doug Thorley Tri-Y vs. a Downey header.

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TacoRunner

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Consider this OFFICAL

the 2RZ makes peak torque at 4200RPM   HP 5200RPM

the 3RZ makes peak torque at 3800RPM   HP 4800RPM

Changing exhaust parts can and does affect where that peak power is made.

For these motors, a 2.25" exhaust will help to lower peak torque and hp numbers in the RPM band.

Notice on my baseline numbers that my peak power is at 3700RPM because of the exhaust. HP is a little lower in the RPM band too.
« Last Edit: Jul 13, 2009, 11:40:06 AM by TacoRunner »
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TacoRunner

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If you look at were the power comes on in these two motors you can clearly see why the 3RZ is better for offroad and stop light to stop light applications.

The 3RZ at 3K is making 130ft lbs and 75 hp on 37" Tires baseline

The 2RZ at 3K is making 110ft lbs and 64 hp on 28" Tires baseline

Here is a good reason to go with the 3RZ over the 2RZ
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