Author Topic: 22r rear crank seal  (Read 3608 times)

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8622r

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22r rear crank seal
« on: November 19, 2005, 11:55:39 PM »
just looking for some tips
on changing the rear main seal and getting it not to leak
i have tried it with and with out a speedie sleeve and for the
life of i cant get this rear main(crank) seal not to leak any ideas
or just let it leak?

1986 22r 200,000 miles

Duffil

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Re: 22r rear crank seal
« Reply #1 on: November 20, 2005, 12:03:08 AM »
are you sure its leaking from the seal and not the plate?  What kind of seal are you using?

8622r [OP]

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Re: 22r rear crank seal
« Reply #2 on: November 20, 2005, 12:29:40 AM »
yes i sealed the plate with loctite 518 i think the seal was from toyota

79coyotefrg

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Re: 22r rear crank seal
« Reply #3 on: November 20, 2005, 10:38:12 AM »
how are your main bearings :dunno:  its possible the flywheel and clutch are way out of balance

does your seal go on firm,  i mean  fairly snug to the crank?? 
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

8622r [OP]

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Re: 22r rear crank seal
« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2005, 02:03:03 PM »
how are your main bearings :dunno: its possible the flywheel and clutch are way out of balance

does your seal go on firm, i mean fairly snug to the crank??

i cant remember how firm it was
it has been some tine now.

bering are(i hope still are)pretty tight as i rolled new bearings in it
50,000 miles or so ago

79coyotefrg

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Re: 22r rear crank seal
« Reply #5 on: November 24, 2005, 06:14:30 PM »
i cant remember how firm it was
it has been some tine now.

bering are(i hope still are)pretty tight as i rolled new bearings in it
50,000 miles or so ago
if its been that long it is possible the seal is bad
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

Marlin

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Re: 22r rear crank seal
« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2005, 10:09:45 PM »
Do not use a seal sleeve, it will always leak.

I always prefer a Toyota seal.

After the old seal is removed, check for a worn groove on the crankshaft hub.
Always lightly sand the crank hub with 400 sand paper and if there is a wear groove, I belt sand the rear face of the new seal until the metal shows thru the rubber, and then install the seal.
This will allow the seal to sit deeper and contact on the good area of the crank.

Do not hammer directly on the seal. I use a metal ring that fits the o.d. off the seal to hammer against.

Always prelube the seal with a good grease and be careful not to over install [distort] the seal by hammering against the seal when it is bottomed out in the seal bore.
« Last Edit: November 24, 2005, 10:14:48 PM by Marlin »
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hdrisc

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Re: 22r rear crank seal
« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2005, 06:45:36 AM »
When I repair rear main seal leaks on ES300's (3.0) I put a little black RTV on each flexplate bolt, I've seen oil leaks from the bolts themselves.
Not sure if this applies to the 22R.

jimbo74

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Re: 22r rear crank seal
« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2005, 01:17:14 PM »
was thinking about marlin saying dont hit the seal directly... well this is what i do, not sure if it is the correct way or not, but i have a wood 4x4 block i nthe garage, i place it against the seal and then smack the seal with a big rubber heaeded mallet... that way it evenly and safely distributes the force.... im sure others will comment on my method
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