Author Topic: Help on fluids  (Read 19111 times)

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MiniSimp

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Help on fluids
« on: Oct 20, 2005, 11:14:50 AM »
I need to put some fluid in my rig.

What kind and how much?

Here is what I'm filling:
Front axle
Rear axle
W56
Dual RF1A's with 2.28 front and rear

BigMike

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #1 on: Oct 20, 2005, 11:18:53 AM »
Just under 2 quarts per axle, 3 quarts for the W56, 1.5 quarts for your Crawl box, and 2 quarts for your transfercase.

So get 11 quarts and you're set.

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #2 on: Oct 20, 2005, 11:57:23 AM »
I think that BigMike should know about the volume since, as I remember, he just did a full fluid swap recently.

As for the kind of fluid, that is the million dollar question.  I am running 85W-140 conventional in the rear differential to try and stop the small leaks, don't honestly remember what is in the front differential, the transfer case has 80W-90 conventional and the transmission is 80W-90 or 75W-90 that the dealer put in when they serviced it.

If you don't get into deep water and cash isn't a huge factor, I would probably run Redline in the transmission, some other type of synthetic in the rest, but conventional all around makes it simple.  I hear nothing but good about the redline (not having the cold rough shifting problem) in the transmission.  Heavy oil can lower fuel mileage, but also reduces wear so  :dunno:  flip a quarter I guess.  Synthetics get expensive to change if you get water mixed in.
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MiniSimp [OP]

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #3 on: Oct 20, 2005, 01:22:25 PM »
I'll most likely be in water a lot.
So heavier for water?

All_Set

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #4 on: Oct 20, 2005, 03:38:40 PM »
sae80-90 gear oil in everything.    Syn if you have money.

How is thicker oil gonna help in water?   


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blackdiamond

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #5 on: Oct 20, 2005, 05:33:40 PM »
sae80-90 gear oil in everything. Syn if you have money.

How is thicker oil gonna help in water?

The point I was trying to make is that if you are in water alot and expect to get water in the fluid, then paying the extra for synthetic adds up fast with multiple changes.

The thicker oil does reduce the wear between the metal parts, but at the expense of fuel mileage.

I would agree that 80-90 would work in everthing making carrying extra fluid a snap.
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #6 on: Oct 22, 2005, 09:31:13 AM »
80-90
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #7 on: Oct 22, 2005, 06:12:18 PM »
sae80-90 gear oil in everything. Syn if you have money.

How is thicker oil gonna help in water?

 :yikes:  It don't, Mineral oil is cheaper to replace then syn.  Just open the drain and fill plugs let sit and drain for a couple hours, then spray( I mean two cans) brake clean  inside of the diff. The third can be removed or use the little red tube( comes with the can) to spray thru the fill and drain holes. And when I say spray I mean hit EVERYTHING. Or you could fill the diff with a good solvent and turn the axles by hand( do not try to move the truck) to wash the gears and diff, then drain. After allowing the diff to drain well and dry( I use air to finish off the drying part), refill the diff with oil.  It's a long process but it's the solvent/brake clean the removes the contaminated oil and water, and you just have to sure all the "cleaner" is out of the diff before fresh oil is added. If there is solvent in the diff with the fresh oil, it will cut the oil( thinning it out). If you miss a drop or two it will not hurt, if you miss a half a cup or more your not running 80-90w any more.  :driving:  Better just add breather tubes.. and don't water in the diff to start.  :wave:

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #8 on: Oct 24, 2005, 10:02:03 AM »
My rear case only took about 1.5 quarts before it started flowing out the fill hole.
Could this be because of the MC08-R10 adapter?
Will it not hold as much gear oil because it is tipped up?

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #9 on: Oct 26, 2005, 09:11:06 PM »
:yikes: It don't, Mineral oil is cheaper to replace then syn. Just open the drain and fill plugs let sit and drain for a couple hours, then spray( I mean two cans) brake clean inside of the diff. The third can be removed or use the little red tube( comes with the can) to spray thru the fill and drain holes. And when I say spray I mean hit EVERYTHING. Or you could fill the diff with a good solvent and turn the axles by hand( do not try to move the truck) to wash the gears and diff, then drain. After allowing the diff to drain well and dry( I use air to finish off the drying part), refill the diff with oil. It's a long process but it's the solvent/brake clean the removes the contaminated oil and water, and you just have to sure all the "cleaner" is out of the diff before fresh oil is added. If there is solvent in the diff with the fresh oil, it will cut the oil( thinning it out). If you miss a drop or two it will not hurt, if you miss a half a cup or more your not running 80-90w any more. :driving: Better just add breather tubes.. and don't water in the diff to start. :wave:




There are some very high end additives we use at work to remove water from hydraulic systems in the event of a cooler failure or some such catastrophe. I really don't know if it would be feasible to use these additives for automotive purposes. They are quite expensive and the smallest quantity I have seen them come in is a 30 gal barrel.

There are a few different and less expensive ways to get water out of mechanical things. Products like WD40 break the water down and absorb it. Alcohol does this too. It absorbs the water and then evaporates. Basically, this is how fuel additives like "heat" work. They break up the water in the fuel and absorb it.

I haven't priced any out, but stores like the Home Depot sell WD40 in gallon cans. If the cost wasn't too bad, you could put a quart or 2 of WD40 in the contaminated compartment. Cycle the gears around a little and the water would go out the drain when you dump the WD40. It would be worth checking into. Around here, a couple of cans of brake clean will set you back 6 or 7 bucks and I think the WD40 would do a better job of getting all the water out.
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V-Man

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #10 on: Oct 27, 2005, 06:50:10 PM »

There are a few different and less expensive ways to get water out of mechanical things. Products like WD40 break the water down and absorb it. Alcohol does this too. It absorbs the water and then evaporates. Basically, this is how fuel additives like "heat" work. They break up the water in the fuel and absorb it.

I haven't priced any out, but stores like the Home Depot sell WD40 in gallon cans. If the cost wasn't too bad, you could put a quart or 2 of WD40 in the contaminated compartment. Cycle the gears around a little and the water would go out the drain when you dump the WD40. It would be worth checking into. Around here, a couple of cans of brake clean will set you back 6 or 7 bucks and I think the WD40 would do a better job of getting all the water out.

  Ya WD40 may work ok.  I was using the brake clean to cut the "soap" ( the foamy sluge made by mixing hot oil and water) and pull the contamined oil out of the metal. There are a lot of solvents that can be used too.  But of a good on the trail fix, a couple cans of brake clean sprayed into the diff( all oil and run off is of course caught in a contanter).  $20 for brake clean or $300+ to rebuild the third.. metal on metal and no lube equals  :flamer:  :yikes:

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #11 on: Jun 30, 2006, 02:37:57 PM »
I am bringing up this old thread from the dead. :inthedark: I am changing out my diff oil and was going to go with Redline synthetic. The problem I found was how difficult it is to find in a local shop. :thumbdown: So I opted for Mobil 1, 85W140 rated GL5 for light trucks with limited slip diffs. At $16 a quart, I hope it is good stuff. :dunno:

I changed out the fluid in the front diff last night and it held nearly 3 quarts before it started coming out the fill hole. I'll do the rear diff tonight. Big Mike listed the capacity at 2 quarts per diff. Am I overfilling by getting gear oil to the fill hole level. :headscratch:
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #12 on: Jun 30, 2006, 02:41:20 PM »
Am I overfilling by getting gear oil to the fill hole level. :headscratch:

nope, thats jsut right, hell, a little bit over that wont hurt either
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #13 on: Jun 30, 2006, 04:27:44 PM »
I am bringing up this old thread from the dead. :inthedark: I am changing out my diff oil and was going to go with Redline synthetic. The problem I found was how difficult it is to find in a local shop. :thumbdown: So I opted for Mobil 1, 85W140 rated GL5 for light trucks with limited slip diffs. At $16 a quart, I hope it is good stuff. :dunno:

I changed out the fluid in the front diff last night and it held nearly 3 quarts before it started coming out the fill hole. I'll do the rear diff tonight. Big Mike listed the capacity at 2 quarts per diff. Am I overfilling by getting gear oil to the fill hole level. :headscratch:

Is your diff rotated a bit?
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #14 on: Jun 30, 2006, 08:11:17 PM »
No worries, your perfect...little extra lube never hurt anyone!
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #15 on: Jul 01, 2006, 12:39:36 AM »
Is your diff rotated a bit?
Nope. The rear is and it held exactly two quarts. :lipsrsealed:
I did some web seaching and found JEGS carries Redline. 80W140 synthetic is only $7 a quart. How can Mobil 1 justify $16 a quart.  :confused:
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #16 on: Jul 01, 2006, 01:58:25 AM »
I have used Redline in my tranny since Marlin rebuilt it years ago. It lasted over 200,000 miles before being rebuilt again. It has worked well for me. I use the MT90.
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #17 on: Apr 21, 2007, 07:11:46 PM »
make breather hoses for your differentials and run them up higher. Then you won't have to worry about water getting in there.
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #18 on: Apr 24, 2008, 11:09:11 PM »
90 and cheep. i have had no problems in the  5 years i have had my truck and thats all i have ran
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #19 on: Apr 24, 2008, 11:36:23 PM »
from the dead
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #20 on: Mar 11, 2009, 04:46:41 PM »
i use 90 weight and i fill up just to were it starts coming out the hole

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #21 on: Sep 05, 2010, 03:42:56 PM »
Back from the dead again!
My rear dif is rotated up for a better pinion angle, making the fill hole relatively lower than stock. Im planning on jacking the rear end off the ground when I refill it so that the third is in a standard position, allowing more oil to be poured in before coming out the fill hole.. Does this sound about right? Also, Im running an SM465 to a mini case in my Cruiser. Will the 465 "share" oil with the mini case?
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #22 on: Sep 10, 2010, 03:54:40 AM »
I put strait 90 weight in my 4 speed and it shifts WAY better than with 80/90.  It wasl also like half the price of 80/90 for a 5 gallon bucket.
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #23 on: Nov 04, 2010, 10:11:13 PM »
90, I also use Lucas additive.  Really quiets down the gears.

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #24 on: Nov 05, 2010, 09:40:21 AM »
Back from the dead again!
My rear dif is rotated up for a better pinion angle, making the fill hole relatively lower than stock. Im planning on jacking the rear end off the ground when I refill it so that the third is in a standard position, allowing more oil to be poured in before coming out the fill hole.. Does this sound about right? Also, Im running an SM465 to a mini case in my Cruiser. Will the 465 "share" oil with the mini case?

Just make sure you don't put more than the standard amount.  I did what you're talking about once and overdid things.  It made a mess when it pushed the excess out the vent while driving on the highway to Moab.  It also made me wonder if something was wrong that would mess up my trip.

90, I also use Lucas additive.  Really quiets down the gears.

Check out bobistheoilguy.com for some pictures on how adding lucus really works.  You'll see that at higher mixing speeds it actually turns the oil white which means that air is in the oil.  I wouldn't use the stuff.  Quiet can be from good lubrication and also from oil that's too thick.  If you put some 50 weight in your engine it would have the same effect.
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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #25 on: Jun 22, 2012, 03:42:05 PM »
VR1 Racing Oil (VR1) 10w30 be good to run in a 22re? all year long. Am thinking about when I change the oil to use this oil. I think 20w50 would be to thick, and straight 30w wont be as good as muiltgrade? Thx
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blackdiamond

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #26 on: Jul 22, 2012, 09:17:04 AM »
VR1 Racing Oil (VR1) 10w30 be good to run in a 22re? all year long. Am thinking about when I change the oil to use this oil. I think 20w50 would be to thick, and straight 30w wont be as good as muiltgrade? Thx

You can likely get away with any 0w-30, 5w-30, or 10w-30 year around, I would stick with a 5w-30 because it protects better at start up than a 10w-30 and not as expensive as the synthetic 0w stuff.  If you want thicker oil, then get something like a 5w-40 or 10w-40, but you shouldn't need anything thicker than that unless your engine is in poor condition.  Straight weight is a bad plan and doesn't protect well at start up where most wear happens.

I also wouldn't use a racing oil year around simply because racing applications are not designed with long drain intervals in mind so they may not have the same levels of detergents.  Pennzoil Platinum would be a solid option for a year around solution.
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E120ER

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #27 on: Mar 20, 2017, 10:09:35 PM »
I use Redline 75W90 for the front/rear axles, transmission and transfer case. I am using Castrol 10W30 as engine oil, for no real reason. I wanted to use 5W30 like in my other Toyota's although it does not seem very common when reading other posts about engine oil.

blackdiamond

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Re: Help on fluids
« Reply #28 on: Mar 27, 2017, 06:17:52 PM »
I use Redline 75W90 for the front/rear axles, transmission and transfer case. I am using Castrol 10W30 as engine oil, for no real reason. I wanted to use 5W30 like in my other Toyota's although it does not seem very common when reading other posts about engine oil.

No need to sweat running 5W30 oil.  It's the same viscosity rating as the 10W30 at operating temperature and just doesn't quite get as thick at ambient temperatures.  No reason to not run the same oil in everything.

I am currently running 0w20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance in my 08 Civic and 5w30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance in my 04 Sequoia.  The excess from the 5 quart jugs gets saved up and used in the Sequoia since it's holds more than 5 quarts.  My 89 4Runner currently has 5w-30 Valvoline Maxlife which is an unadvertised blend from what I understand.
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