Author Topic: Flushing out my drivetrain: How many quarts should I buy? (Read 8762 times)

BigMike · « **on:** Sep 06, 2005, 11:13:03 PM »

Hey guys,
As bone-headed as this question is, I seriously just don't know!

I've been wanting to go Synthetic in both diffs, trans, t/case, and both Crawlers for a while now but I've never done it.

So with MCR4 around the corner, I figure this would be a perfect time to do it, so I am going to give Royal Purple a try and see how it goes..

So here are my questions:

How many Quarts do I need for a W56? (I think it's 3 quarts?)
For a gear drive t/case? (I think it's 2 quarts?)
For both regular 8" Toy Differentials? (??)

I know that a Crawl box is 1.5 quarts, so that's maybe:

3 quarts for the Trans
3 quarts for both Crawl Boxes
2 quarts for the t/case........
----------------------------------------
8 quarts for those, but I have no idea how many quarts of gear oil I need for both front and rear live axle differentials. ?

yotaboy79 · « **Reply #1 on:** Sep 06, 2005, 11:17:46 PM »

i wanna think it was about 1.5 for the axles when i changed mine but dont quote me on that

freds40 · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 06, 2005, 11:20:33 PM »

It's been a while but IIRC, it was 1.5-2 quarts per diff. 3 qts. sounds about right for the w-56. Get 4 galons of the stuff and have some left over. Of course with the cost of that stuff you'll be dropping a nice chunk of change.

BigMike · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 06, 2005, 11:33:51 PM »

Quote from: freds40 on Sep 06, 2005, 11:20:33 PM

Of course with the cost of that stuff you'll be dropping a nice chunk of change.

Well, It looks like I'll be needing 12 Quarts, so at $9 a q, that's $109.

Maybe I should think this over first..... What a difference being back in school. I have to save every penny unlike working 40 hours a week, then I wouldn't even bat an eye at that

BigMike · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 06, 2005, 11:39:31 PM »

Ahh, I can get Schaeffer's #267 for only about $7 a quart and I am sure it is better than Royal Purple-

So now that's just $84. Hey, it's getting better!

Why I think this stuff is the cat's meow: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/gearoiltest.htm
Company website product listing: http://www.schaefferoil.com/sellsheets/molysupreme.htm

BigMike · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 06, 2005, 11:48:51 PM »

Ok, I just located three retailers for Schaeffer's Oil near my area and I am going to call them up tomorrow morning for some price quotes.

If anything, I at least really want to replace the oil in my W56 because I am always nervous of loosing 5th gear sometimes in the hills, considering the way I use the power I've got-

freds40 · « **Reply #6 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 12:07:55 AM »

See, had to be MR. COOL and throw in another crawl box. Could have saved $10 on oil.

BigMike · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 12:13:21 AM »

Dang, now I really regret that

RHG · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 12:22:41 AM »

Hey Mike I recently put in a rebuilt w56 from you guys and I was curious as to how often I should change the the oil. I just took a wild guess as to how many miles I ran it cause my speedo/odo dont work. At 1000-1500 miles I changed the oil because of the "break in" period. Inbetween the tranny and the t-case there is very minor leaking, never notice any drops on the ground but its wet on the case. Should I be concerned about such a minor leak? Sorry for the thread jack but I have been meaning to ask these questions and this area seems apropriate.

BigMike · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 02:54:39 AM »

It's ok

Well the leakage between the trans and tcase would be tcase oil and tcase oil only, because the rear of the trans is sealed internally.

If it's a slow seepage, and you dont mind the occasional oil spots on your driveway, then don't worry about it for now. Depending on how slow it is, you might want to check your t/case oil leve maybe once a month or so to track the progress on how much oil you are loosing. If you are loosing like a quart a month, then maybe it's time to pull it apart, get a new gasket, make sure there is no oil reside on either mounting surface, use some sort of gasket sealer, like Gasket-Sinch or Hi-Tac, and put the new gasket on and bolt it up.
It wouldn't be a bad idea that if you ever have those two units seperated, to take some mild sand paper and rough up the smooth sealing surface on the t/case input gear and then re-grease the trans output seal, just to make sure that it will remain well broken in and sealed.

BigMike

reklund5 · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 06:08:32 AM »

BigMike-

I'm of the opinion that a synchronized tranny performes better on plain-old 75/90 gear oil. The trans in my supra made all kinds of noise with any synthetic in it, but after the last rebuild I filled it with the 75/90 that comes outta the pump at work for free, and it's WAY quieter. It shifts better and smoother. I just don't think the synthetic provides the same lubrication properties as the regular stuff.

I know that goes against EVERYTHING anyone says about synthetic, but I'm putting over 400 HP to the ground on a R series trans with NO trouble. It hits 25 PSI in 5th on the freeway and almost spins the tires, with no adverse effects to the trans. In my application, I save the money otherwise spent on synthetic gear lube and spend it on tires

I'd say run the regular stuff and change it often. Besides, as soon as you dunk an axle in some water and think it might have water inside, it sucks to drain that high-dollar synthetic and have to replace it.

Just my

Ryan

BigMike · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 11:00:21 AM »

Those are all great pointers there- I do recall that when I put in Redline MT90 in my MR2, it stopped grinding on power shifts, and I didn't have to wait for the tranny to "warm-up" in order to feel smoother shifts. Even on the coldest morning, right out the driveway it was super smooth.

Right now I've just got the stuff from work, but I figure I would give a syn blend a shot. I see what you're saying about the diffs and water, that would suck. I still need to install extension hoses on my diff vents too, so right now I am thinking about just replacing the tranny and tcase oil for now.

BigMike

MiniSimp · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 11:19:55 AM »

Here is a quote from this dude named "Big Mike" on the Size/Capacities/Weight thread

Quote from: BigMike on May 07, 2005, 10:52:43 AM

W56: ~3.0 Quarts
Tcase: 1.5 - 1.7 Quarts

BigMike · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 11:21:09 AM »

yup, that's where I got about half of my info from

blackdiamond · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 11:57:27 AM »

The differentials will take a minimum of 2 quarts each. I just switched my rear differential from 75W-140 RP to conventional 85W-140 Valvoline because my pinion was starting to leak more with the synthetic. If you get the _W-90 oil it is much cheaper than the _W-140.

RHG · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 03:42:28 PM »

Hey whats up with those cold shifts that Sir BigMike speaks of? My tranny does this also. On a cold morning it can be a biatch to get that thing in first. I think I am running the 85-140 stuff so would the 90 help with that? It doesnt take long to warm up its just a PITA.

KYOTA · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 07, 2005, 08:34:46 PM »

Mike I always buy my gear lube 5 gal. at a whack and have a bucket pump, cheaper and easier to fill especially the trans and t cases. save the quart bottles for trail fluids

Makman · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 09, 2005, 09:44:17 PM »

Mike,

- The 79-95 Haynes manual lists the front differential at 2.0 quarts and the rear at 2.5 quarts.
- The 1985 factory Toyota manual lists the front at 2.4 quarts and the rear at 2.3 quarts.
- The 1987 factory Toyota manual lists 2.3 quarts for the rear axle although they do show higher capacity in the Turbo at 2.48 quarts.
None of it agrees exactly but at least they're all ballpark.

I've seen good things with Schaeffer's oil and have actually dealt with one of their chemists in the past to address an industrial application. A big company (no names but the initails are GE) was running about 1200 hp through a gearbox with maybe 120 gallons of Schaeffer's #267 synth blend in it. Given how the box was being operated (

), I was impressed by the oil's performance. Let us know how it does overall and in particular with the cold-shifting.

RustyToy · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 09, 2005, 11:08:07 PM »

Get a five gallon at wally for 22 bucks...

Anglewood · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 12, 2005, 10:51:00 PM »

I am not sure how true this is, but I heard that with a synthetic like Redline MT-90, if any water gets in there it turns to jello. Even had a buddy say that he is still draining chunks after a serious dunk months ago (river wheelers back home). That was enough to get me to stay with dino oi and I just make sure to check if it is clean around every other oil change or so. Can anyone confirm this?

Lates,

Connorl

blackdiamond · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 13, 2005, 07:14:04 AM »

Quote from: Anglewood on Sep 12, 2005, 10:51:00 PM

I am not sure how true this is, but I heard that with a synthetic like Redline MT-90, if any water gets in there it turns to jello. Even had a buddy say that he is still draining chunks after a serious dunk months ago (river wheelers back home). That was enough to get me to stay with dino oi and I just make sure to check if it is clean around every other oil change or so. Can anyone confirm this?

Lates,

Connorl

I have some royal purple synthetic gear oil sitting at home that I can mix with water and then possible heat up on the stove, I bet my wife will be excited. I also have dino gear oil that I can try the same thing and see what happens.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 13, 2005, 08:56:58 PM »

I just tested synthetic (RP 75W-140) and conventional (Pennzoil 80W-90). I mixed with water in a glass container and put into the microwave until it started to boil. I noted that the RP did show signs of "white crap" in the oil while the conventional only showed traces that could have been left from the RP. I also noted that the RP mix boiled in about 40 seconds while the conventional took a minute plus (the mixes were not identical amounts, but close). Also, the RP was more difficult to clean out of the glass container, it "sticks" or"coats" better. Definitely not scientific, but I think that it is plausible that the synthetics don't handle water/heat as well as conventional.

Hopefully someone else with give it a try and post up!

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=14898.0

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