Author Topic: Budders' 3rz conversion- getting fiberglass bedsides! (Read 70654 times)

BUDDERS · « **on:** Aug 21, 2005, 10:44:48 PM »

This Project is featured in our Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread

Well, here they are. FInally some pictures of my new project '85 Toy. Sorry it took so long to post pics, I've had camera problems.

BUDDERS · « **Reply #1 on:** Aug 21, 2005, 10:47:17 PM »

My bumper and power windows - in case you harcore wheelers forgot what they look like!

BUDDERS · « **Reply #2 on:** Aug 21, 2005, 10:49:10 PM »

Here's the beast within and the seats that are going in

BigMike · « **Reply #3 on:** Aug 21, 2005, 11:51:40 PM »

Looks great, can we get some more pics and info of your 2000-2004 3RZ please?

BUDDERS · « **Reply #4 on:** Aug 22, 2005, 07:54:10 PM »

Sure Mike, here is some more infor for ya.
I bought this truck from a kid in Palmdale and the motor blew a headgasket the next day on the way to work. So, I pulled the head to find that the block had been borred out .080 over and the cylinder walls were scored as well. I really didn't want to start a conversion this soon, but I figured better now than later.

I found the 3rz with the ecu,engine wiring, engine bay wiring, clutch, bellhousing, dash harness, all evap pipes and canister as well as all engine accessories for $1500. This is out of a 2004 Taco prerunner w/ auto trans and the clutch and bellhousing are from a 2rz from the junkyard. I'm just looking to get it running for now and then swap in a clutch and flywheel from a 3rz. I fabbed my motor mounts like Big Mike did on his blue and white truck and bolted the motor up. Right now, I have the engine harness out pending surgery although, I'm still waiting for my buddy to send me the '85 factory manual on disk before I have the wiring finalized. I had it towed to an exhaust shop about a week ago and they made a real nice crossovver pipe with the factory cat and pre-cat (just in different positions). I;m planning on using the '85 charging system. I modified the back of the taco alternator by changing the regulator to the old style round type plug and augured out the back cover a bit so it would fit right. I'm planning on using a '85 truck a/c compressor w/ a 2nd gen mr2 a/c clutch (because it has the same amount of ribs as the taco, but will bolt to the "85 compressor). Right now, I'm scratching my head to figure out the fuel lines and clutch hard line. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Future projects on this truck will include:
-onboard air
-new front and rear suspension
-installation of prp racing seats and new seatbelt harnesses
-installation of factory inclinometer from a 4-runner
-fabrication of new rear bumper w/swing away tire carrier w/jerry can holder and rock guards at the corners

I will send more pics asap.

Mike, if you need pics of a complete and running taco, I have a '02 2wd taco with a 2rz as my DD and would be willing to take pictures for you.

BUDDERS · « **Reply #5 on:** Aug 22, 2005, 07:59:40 PM »

Oh, I forgot to mention the best part, this motor has less than 5k miles on it. $Beer Chug\'n$

BUDDERS · « **Reply #6 on:** Aug 25, 2005, 04:30:26 PM »

Some pictures of my exhaust:

BUDDERS · « **Reply #7 on:** Aug 25, 2005, 04:34:36 PM »

More pics of engine:

BUDDERS · « **Reply #8 on:** Aug 25, 2005, 04:37:25 PM »

Still not sure if I'me going to keep the cruise control. I never worked when I drove it down from Palmdale. Maybe I can make a nice gearshifter throttle lever with a bike brake handle and the cable for the cruise? Hmm... Might be nice with some slow crawling.

Volcom · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 29, 2005, 02:58:15 PM »

Any updates on the swap?? I'm doing research on the swap myself and have read all the 3RZ threads on the Marlin Board

BUDDERS · « **Reply #10 on:** Oct 02, 2005, 11:21:51 PM »

nothing special to update at the moment. I'm waiting for my next paycheck to get a couple more things from the junkyard that I am missing and then I will finish the wirring. In the mean time, I fabbed up some seat brackets for my PRP seats, but that doesn't have anything to do with the motor swap.

bkubisht · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 20, 2006, 05:56:22 PM »

Hey Budders, any updates here? Got any leads on a 3rz for me? Did the a/c compressor turn out simple like you'd planned?

And when are ya driving this virgin beast to AZ?

-Bryan

BUDDERS · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 20, 2006, 07:43:09 PM »

Glad you finaly found me on here Bryan. I have all the goods I need to get the conversion done, and have made a little progress since the last post, but I've got a new girlfreind now that's taking up a lot of my time and I've had too many things going on with my family lately, so the project has taken a back seat. I just had to register it as Non-Op so I have a bit to complete it. Pray I get this thing done for summer and then maybe a little

to AZ and some $Beer Chug\'n$ with freinds.

BigMike · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 20, 2006, 09:44:15 PM »

It's looking good Budders. Do you have Duals in there already? The two piece rear drive lines tells me you don't. You'll have to mod the exhaust if you do

That motor sure is c-l-e-a-n!

BUDDERS · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 21, 2006, 12:39:48 AM »

Yeah, Mike the motor is real clean. No duals for me, at least not yet. I'm setting this up for the desert and some light wheelin' on the trails. I'm not planning on this being a rock crawler though.

Has anyone heard anything about Cooper's new off road tire? I've seen them down at the local tire shop, and for the money, they look pretty sweet. It looks like they would give the BFG Krawlers a run for their money.

wa4x4 · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 21, 2006, 12:48:27 AM »

Do you mean the Wildcats?

bkubisht · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 23, 2006, 09:42:30 AM »

Yeah, I was doing yet another search on any new 3RZ info, and found your post without knowing at first it was you. Originally I looked for 'Butters' and gave up.

I've found a manual 2RZ in Huntsville AL that I could get for very cheap with everything needed. And I've found a supra with manual 100k 7mge in CA that I could get in trade for a rebuilt mild 22R. Finally, some options are breaking loose. The problem is there's still a 50% chance that I'll move to Huntsville in the next few months, so I can't make a decision either way on the motors.

BigMike · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 23, 2006, 04:25:49 PM »

bkubisht, I recommend contacting 4RnrRick about any indecisiveness between the 3RZ-FE or 7M-GE. After battling issues with his 7M-GE swap, he has already sold the engine and is installing a 3RZ.

Now commenting between a 2RZ-FE vs. 7M-GE, the 2RZ will definitely fall short in the power department, but everything else will still apply, like OBD-II, reliability, economy, technology, trouble shooting, cleaner burning, lighter, shorter, simplicity, better idle, more bottom end power (yes, I imagine even with the 2RZ even), etc.. etc.. etc..

Good luck with all of that

310R · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 23, 2006, 05:16:13 PM »

You guys just need to see a properly set up 7mge,and you might change your minds.Power output is amazing and they are tons of mods to make lots of torque!

BigMike · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 23, 2006, 07:00:55 PM »

Sorry BUDDERS for Hi-jacking your thread

About the 7M-GE, I can not ignore the fact that it makes 35 more HP and 8 ft-lbs more Torque than the 3RZ.

I have seen 4RnrRicks Incredibly in depth and well written write-up on his 7M-GE conversion so I really want to believe that his engine was running correctly.

I will stop talking about the two, well, simply because I have no experience with the 7M!! Whatever the reasons are, 4RnrRick has decided to ditch the 7M-GE and go with the 3RZ-FE. I know that he does like the power, but the 7M is more of a rev engine and is not really an ideal Rock-Crawling Engine, like the 3RZ is. I have not compared dyno sheets, but according to Rick, his 7M did not have the bottom end power that his 22R-E had, and I can vouch that the 3RZ has a stronger bottom end power curve than the 22R-E, which I do have experience with daily driving and wheeling.

In my opinion that's what it comes down to, the fine blend of drivability and Rock Crawling

I have seen some REALLY!! bad-ass 7M-GTEs! I love inline Turbo 6cylinders. Just talk to reklund5 about that, he owns a highly-modified Toy Supra. I just hope that the next Generation Supra (most likely Scion-badged) will have an inline 6 rather than a V8!

reklund5 · « **Reply #20 on:** Mar 23, 2006, 08:22:36 PM »

I thought I heard my name....

Totally agree with BigMike... the 7M is a dog at low speeds. I get killed at the tree all the time by 4cyl Hondas because the 7M doesn't make power until 2500 or so RPM. (BTW...it's fun to see the look on some ricer kid's face when he thinks he's winning, and then you blow by him at half track at 25psi...

)

If it wasn't for the turbo cramming air down the throat of my Supra, I don't think I could stand it. How people drive NATURALLY ASPIRATED 7M's is beyond me.

I really like the 3RZ setup. Definitely a wise choice for a wheelin' truck! Mine will get a 3RZ if I ever kill the 'ol 22RE.

My

Ryan

BUDDERS · « **Reply #21 on:** Mar 23, 2006, 11:26:32 PM »

Hey guys, I really don't mind the thread-jacking as long as it is helping someone. In this case, it is my freind Bryan (bkubisht) who is a newbie to the board, but not to the toyota scene. Knowing him, I bet he has done his research, but I think it is coming down to a money/time issue than anything else. He's got a family to think about first and the project comes lower on the list of priorities. Bryan, if you're reading this, it may be a good time to start your own thread on your 4runner.

BigMike · « **Reply #22 on:** Mar 24, 2006, 12:19:54 AM »

Hey Budders, I was just thinking about your exhaust. I know CA smog laws are pretty strict, and with those cats so far downstream from the heat source (cylinders), I am worried about the cats not being able to reach their operating temperature, as the catalyst must reach a certain temperature before they become fully effective. On my setup I was a bit worried about this (and my cat is below my drivers seat, much closer) so I used header wrap from the header to the front of the cat.

Just thought I would toss that out

BigMike

BUDDERS · « **Reply #23 on:** Mar 24, 2006, 08:18:47 AM »

Thanks for the info Mike. I'll have to see if this passes the inspection from the B.A.R. I never really thought about the heat needed for the cats to work. I was just trying to think of a way to get them to fit under the truck. My motor is from a '04 taco which, has a pre-cat and a cat that I think is a bigger setup than yours. I'm just trying to get everything to look and work like it should so it will pass inspection on the first try.

Do you have any helpfull hints for wirring this thing? I just got a '01 harness and ecu from a 2rz so I won't have to run a custom gas tank for evap purposes like Bevin. This should make wirring a lot easier I hope.

Also, I just picked up a IFS steering box at the junk yard durring my last spending spree for the future hysteer setup.

310R · « **Reply #24 on:** Mar 24, 2006, 05:19:39 PM »

Proper cam selection and higher compression will alow 7mge to make alot more torque.Remember there is no replacement for displacement.I also set up cyl heads for racing and street enviorments for atleast 5 yrs as a automotive machinist.It can be done!

BigMike · « **Reply #25 on:** Mar 24, 2006, 05:47:32 PM »

I totally agree with you that the 7M can be built very well

Also it's an inline 6 cylinder which I

Quote from: 310R on Mar 24, 2006, 05:19:39 PM

Remember there is no replacement for displacement.

Yup, that's why the 3RZ is 673cc per cylinder and the 7M is only 492cc per cylinder (36% smaller

)
The 3RZ would be a 4.0 liter 6-cylinder!! SA-WEET!

Many people also forget that the 5M is only 66cc larger overall than the 3RZ.

BigMike

kneedownnate · « **Reply #26 on:** Mar 24, 2006, 08:15:16 PM »

Whaaaaaaa, there's gonna be another supra?! I just hope they don't botch it like the new fj!

bkubisht · « **Reply #27 on:** Mar 29, 2006, 01:48:04 PM »

Quote from: BUDDERS on Mar 23, 2006, 11:26:32 PM

Hey guys, I really don't mind the thread-jacking as long as it is helping someone. In this case, it is my freind Bryan (bkubisht) who is a newbie to the board, but not to the toyota scene. Knowing him, I bet he has done his research, but I think it is coming down to a money/time issue than anything else. He's got a family to think about first and the project comes lower on the list of priorities. Bryan, if you're reading this, it may be a good time to start your own thread on your 4runner.

For me it comes down to which motor becomes available first at a reasonable price. AZ is very expensive when it comes to toyota, whereas in CA it seemed like they grow on trees.

I was definitely listening when 4RnrRick was talking about the lack of low end torque. I followed that swap very closely. At this point I think crawling torque is only part of his issue, the other part is his obsession to build a lightweight rig. If I find a 7m before a 3rz, I'm going to try puting a 7mgte cam into the 7mge motor, to reduce duration and see how that affects crawling torque.

Ah, start my own thread... Maybe someday. When I get my 20RE running on my daily driver, I'll write it up. That's still a pretty unique project, which helps keep me interested in it. But it will probably end up on pirate just for wider coverage.

OK, back to Budders' 3RZ!

4RnrRick · « **Reply #28 on:** Apr 05, 2006, 02:23:30 PM »

Quote from: BigMike on Mar 23, 2006, 07:00:55 PM

4RnrRick has decided to ditch the 7M-GE and go with the 3RZ-FE. I know that he does like the power, but the 7M is more of a rev engine and is not really an ideal Rock-Crawling Engine, like the 3RZ is. I have not compared dyno sheets, but according to Rick, his 7M did not have the bottom end power that his 22R-E had, and I can vouch that the 3RZ has a stronger bottom end power curve than the 22R-E, which I do have experience with daily driving and wheeling.

In my opinion that's what it comes down to, the fine blend of drivability and Rock Crawling

Just ran across this thread searching and thought I would comment since my 7M swap is mentioned a bunch....

Mike pretty much summed it up already for me. The 7M is a fun motor to drive, PERIOD. Especially when you get it up around 4500-5500 rpm. Plus the sound of the inline 6 is a rare sound offroad. But I feel for a good trail rig you need low end torque which the 7M didn't have. Lots of the Supra guys love the low end torque of the 7M but I think they are comparing them to 5M's or 1JZ motors since the 7M is a longer stroke. But for the crawling application, I was constantly stalling it out. Plus the other three guys (Sky, DDog87, ThewsRunner) that I have talked to personally which all live about 40 miles away from me and wheel the same terrain with the 7M pretty much say the same thing. And ThewsRunner is now building a rig with a 2rz because he blew up his 4th (?) 7MGTE. Some of the other reason I wanted to get away from the 7M is gas mileage, expensive to rebuild, rare in junkyards, inherant problems with head gaskets, cooling issues, VERY tight fit in the engine bay, electric pusher fans SUCK and just force crap into the radiator, mounting a OBA compressor is a PITA (took me 4 belts before I got the bracket right). The 7M is also a bit heavier (20 - 40 lbs) over a 22RE or a 3rz (I don't know the weight of a 3rz).

So my opinoin is a 7M in a pavement pounder DD truck or 4runner would be sweet to have, but its not the right motor for any 4x that requires crawling or lets just say a "dual case crawl box" in general.

BUDDERS · « **Reply #29 on:** Jun 05, 2006, 10:27:47 AM »

Ok, I fianally got some work done on this sloooooow moving project this weekend. I got the battery relocated, the '01 2rz wirring installed on the engine, the intake installed, the radiator installed, the fuel line finished, the dash torn apart, egr system removed, heater hose/valve setup done, and removed the connector for the ecu that I need from the dash wirring harness.

I found out that the '04 3rz has a egr system while the '01 2rz does not. So, since this will be smogged like a '01 2rz, I removed the egr system completely. This gives me a little more room to work behind the motor and cleans up the engine bay too.

I did find something out to my suprise though: the connectors for the knock sensor and the ignition switched positive wire for the starter are not included in the engine harness. It looks as if I will have to make my own harness on the left side of the engine bay to get things to work right. - Shouldn't be too bad, although I will have to run sheilded wire for the knock sensor. I hope coaxial cable will do the trick.

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

BUDDERS [OP]

Related Topics