Author Topic: BigMike's Big Summer Project: REVIVED! (Read 213292 times)

Duffil · « **Reply #120 on:** May 23, 2006, 07:39:17 PM »

I really hate these poser buildup threads...

motorider228 · « **Reply #121 on:** May 23, 2006, 08:43:19 PM »

The anticipation is

me

6.72:1 · « **Reply #122 on:** May 24, 2006, 02:57:52 PM »

I come back, and still no updates. He must really have something up his sleeve.

BigMike · « **Reply #123 on:** May 24, 2006, 11:04:45 PM »

Well, this all has really not gone to plan at all...... including what is "up my sleeve"

I worked (on the clock) until 10p tonight so I never got a chance to work on my rig, so I'll have to take some pics tomorrow $:-\$

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #124 on:** May 25, 2006, 04:03:45 AM »

"Welcom to the real world pal"

I was out till about the same time myself and it is hard to get

done if you are always working for others, but it is better to have the cash for those times when you find time.

"Now get on with it"

BigMike · « **Reply #125 on:** May 29, 2006, 11:40:45 PM »

Well, so here is all the Hype. Clearly, this Teaser didnt go as planned. I had a HELL of a time getting this TuRD Supercharger installed, and after having to pull it off numerous times trying to figure out a low boost issue, I finally have it boosting from 3-5 psi.

It is not like my SC MR2. At 2500-ish rpm, it will hit 3psi and hold that until about 4k rpm where it will climb past 4 and hit 5psi right before redline. FYI TuRD used a M62 Blower, which is a SMALLER SUPERCHARGER than the STOCK Toyota SC12 unit used on my 1.6l MR2 Engine.

So what the HECK is TuRD doing with a Supercharger this small on a 2.7 LITRE ENGINE?!?!

Of course the Eaton can be spun at a higher RPM than the older parallel Toy roots Blower, but seriously, this engine is really thirsty for a M90 if you ask me.

BigMike · « **Reply #126 on:** May 29, 2006, 11:51:10 PM »

As you can see I have not quite finished with it, yet I am already daily driving it. Because of a bunch of crap I had to go through with wrong belt sizes, I had to remove my Electric Fan and I will not be able to put it back on until the end of this week. YES, you read that right, I have been driving this Bad Mo-chine around without any Engine Fan at all, no Mech. clutch or E-fan. It has never gone above 40% on the temp gauge. At a long light I may turn on my Heater to high, which sucks in this heat, but it is doing just fine.

Also for the more keen eyed, I have yet to buy longer hose for my steering lock idle-up circuit.

Instead of fixing these small pesky things, I have been working diligently on my Water/Meth. Injection System

which has been up and running since Friday

Various pics I have from the DIY Water Injection Setup:

Phazertwo · « **Reply #127 on:** May 29, 2006, 11:59:04 PM »

$Beer Chug\'n$

Geno · « **Reply #128 on:** May 30, 2006, 12:04:16 AM »

Ewww a supercharger, nice.

BigMike · « **Reply #129 on:** May 30, 2006, 12:26:49 AM »

Let me tell ya something.............. HOLY COW IS THIS THING FAST!!!!

IT DOESN'T MAKE ANY SENSE AT ALL! It is supposed to be a SLOW CABURATED 25-YEAR OLD TRUCK!!!!

And now it's got nearly 200 HP and 250 ft-lbs Torque (source: TuRD)

So here is the low down on all of this:

So about 1 month ago kneedownnate sends me a PM about a Supercharger he found on a different forum for the 3RZ. Naturally I get really excited and checked it out. Two weeks later I am holding a beautiful TuRD Supercharger that allegedly has 20k miles on it, and despite UPS manhandling the package to death, the unit is in really great shape.

Now the whole idea was for it to go on Marlin's truck, of course, but between the payment and receiving it, we remembered that Marlin has installed his York onboard air compressor right next to his Power steering pump, which, is where the TuRD Supercharger is to be installed.

So here we are, we've already paid for the dang thing, and now Marlin can not use it. Well, fortunately for me, Angelo has not finished his 3RZ conversion, Dean resigned a couple of weeks prior, so I was the lucky sun of a gun to get it!

Of course I will be on welfare for the next year of my life as I pay back Marlin Crawler for the nice Boost device, but that is something that I will just have to live with

There were a couple of dings on one of the intake runner that I had to file down, but everything else is in great condition. It only took me one evening to get it installed, however serious modifications were required to my EGR line and my fuel line, things that TuRD's instructions never mentioned. Also, when will TuRD get it straight and STOP USING AMERICAN BOLTS. I AM SO SICK OF TRD of USA!!!!!

But, alas, I sadly am using one of their products, again. I have hated TuRD from day one, when I blew up their "Racing 6-pluck Kevlar Clutch Kit" on my SC MR2 and sold my MR2 TuRD Header. What a bunch of junk from TRD. I have never liked them. But I did have a nifty TuRD Leather Shift Knob on my MR2, and now history has repeated itself since I have yet another TuRD product.

I will take some more pictures of everything tomorrow. I am using an advertised "6-psi pulley" which is a 2.8" dia pulley that is only achieving 3-5 psi.

It seems that the Rotors must be worn out, but I have taken this thing completely apart and everything looks really good internally. I am no Supercharger rebuilder, but there is no serious scaring, just normal wear.

Also, since this kit is designed for both the 2RZ (2.4l) and the 3RZ (2.7l), wouldn't it not make sense that perhaps it will get 6 psi on the 2RZ but maybe only 4 or 5 psi on the 3RZ?? Ahhhhh Interesting.....

In fact, as anticipated, it gets a bit more boost with the Water Inj on. With is siwtched off, it only gets to about ~4.25 psi, but with the mist system on, it gets to 5psi somewhere above 5250k rpm and maybe a bit past 5psi right before it redlines.

Regardless, boy I'll tell ya what, at 5psi it pulls REALLY HARD. This thing never lets up, the power just continues to increase the more you lay down into it and rev it out. Too bad the 3RZ is not a 8k rpm engine like the MR2 hahahah *shucks*

The Water Injection system is very simple to make and was done so for less than $20. I will take more pics of it tomorrow. I have a simple switch (IGN ON powered) that runs through a rheostat, and then the Injection system is controlled by a Boost Switch and a Mechanical switching solenoid, to prevent syphonage and thus flooding. All it is is just a vacuum solenoid. It worked great on the MR2 for many years so I stuck with the design. Apparently Alcohol and water do not affect them

Here is the simple circuit I built:

BigMike · « **Reply #130 on:** May 30, 2006, 12:36:50 AM »

Hey Geno, I heard you had to remove your Supercharger on your 22R-E? What happened?

More to come tomorrow, I've gotta get to sleep, gonna be a busy day tomorrow at the shop.
I still need to get the boost gauge mounted and a couple of indicator lights, so I need to build a nice piece for my dash to get everything mounted correctly. Ohhh things to do.......

BigMike

kneedownnate · « **Reply #131 on:** May 30, 2006, 02:19:26 AM »

You bastag! You told me this was gonna go on Marlin's truck!

I'm glad you're getting to use it though, he can't have all the fun! Good deal man, glad I could help. Someday, maybe someday, I'll get to go for a ride in your bad mo-sheen.

Matty · « **Reply #132 on:** May 30, 2006, 07:19:51 AM »

!

Geno · « **Reply #133 on:** May 30, 2006, 07:31:37 AM »

Quote from: BigMike on May 30, 2006, 12:36:50 AM

Hey Geno, I heard you had to remove your Supercharger on your 22R-E? What happened?

More to come tomorrow, I've gotta get to sleep, gonna be a busy day tomorrow at the shop.
I still need to get the boost gauge mounted and a couple of indicator lights, so I need to build a nice piece for my dash to get everything mounted correctly. Ohhh things to do.......

BigMike

My supercharger is not CA smog legal, it does not have a carb number.

Shamb · « **Reply #134 on:** May 30, 2006, 08:21:52 AM »

Geno you wanna sale it?

gotrocks · « **Reply #135 on:** May 30, 2006, 09:54:02 AM »

You the man bigmike you the man

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #136 on:** May 30, 2006, 12:41:45 PM »

You gonna learn to like the smell of gear oil since you'll be snappin' axles a lot more.

gotrocks · « **Reply #137 on:** May 30, 2006, 02:23:45 PM »

Quote from: Rocksurfer on May 30, 2006, 12:41:45 PM

You gonna learn to like the smell of gear oil since you'll be snappin' axles a lot more.

I can't wait, your streak will break now (pun intended)

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #138 on:** May 30, 2006, 02:46:58 PM »

Quote from: gotrocks on May 30, 2006, 02:23:45 PM

I can't wait, your streak will break now (pun intended)

....and it's gonna happen in front of his house goofing around doing a 35" 4 wheel burnout.

BigMike · « **Reply #139 on:** May 30, 2006, 03:35:23 PM »

I've gotta control that wicked real axle wrap first

reklund5 · « **Reply #140 on:** May 30, 2006, 05:16:09 PM »

Mike-

PM Me. I've got blower goodies for you.

Ryan

Rockdiver · « **Reply #141 on:** May 30, 2006, 08:48:33 PM »

Mike Truck Looks Good Now I want one too

6.72:1 · « **Reply #142 on:** May 30, 2006, 11:02:23 PM »

Ah, the tinkering!

854RUN · « **Reply #143 on:** May 31, 2006, 10:15:46 AM »

Water/Meth. Injection System What is that?

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #144 on:** May 31, 2006, 11:53:22 AM »

Hey Mike, I pm'd ya about some cheese. Don't know if ya got it! Let me know K!

BigMike · « **Reply #145 on:** May 31, 2006, 01:44:15 PM »

Quote from: 854RUN on May 31, 2006, 10:15:46 AM

Water/Meth. Injection System What is that?

By spraying water directly into the intake system, heat energy is required as the liquid water changes state to a superheated vapor. When combined with Alcohol, you get a slower and cooler burn inside the cylinders. All of this cools intake charges and lowers exhaust temperature, so you can use cheaper/low grade gasoline on a high performance engine without any detrimental side affects.

I need to use our temp gun and take pictures of before and after temperature changes. I am sure that without the water injection, my intake charge is over 120 degrees F, and with the water injection, it is maybe around 80 degrees F. It did better on my SC MR2, but I was using dual misters in a completely different configuration.

Read more about it here:

http://www.dawesdevices.com/water.html

Links:
http://www.mirage-performance.com/sonata/WaterInjection/index.html

Water/Alcohol Injection can be used on Naturally Aspirated Engines, but remember that heat energy is required to change the state of the fluid, so the more heat you have, the more you benefit. So this is really great with Turbo- and Super-charging since heat is a direct byproduct of compressors.

Regards,
BigMike

LCOwner · « **Reply #146 on:** May 31, 2006, 11:07:34 PM »

Care needs to be taken when using the H2O/Alky on high compresion engines not to pump to much in. Many of the turbo diesel (Ford, Dodge & Chevy) have bent rods when they got to greedy with the low EGTs and additiona HP. Just like sticking a garden hose down the intake.

BigMike · « **Reply #147 on:** May 31, 2006, 11:38:07 PM »

That makes sense on a diesel engine, which is at least 15:1 and higher (24-ish:1).. That would really suck to hydro-lock a diesel engine!!

In my experience, the amount of fluid from these nozzles is no where enough to hydrolocally lock both my 1.6l and now my 2.7l petrol engines. This is assuming that one uses a proper anti-syphon device so that the cylinder(s) don't fill up while the engine is turned off and just sitting there

Using my rheostat, I can peg it for full 14 volts to the pump and if I crack the throttle just enough to get apprx. 0.5 psi boost (actuating my pump) and hold it there for like 10 seconds, and then floor it, I can feel the engine bogging out. There is too much water in the intake and it is fowling out the spark. I can always run a richer alcohol mixture to counter this, but if I just go straight to WOT, then there is no "apparent" bogging at all, and the OBD-II scanner shows a very smooth timing curve (thus no misfires).

So the nozzle that I am using must have a low flow rate then

Or at least it is no where near enough to hydro-lock the engine.

I have heard of people who just take their windshield squirter hose and shoot it straight into the inlet of their turbo. Sure the turbo would do a superb job at atomizing the water droplets, but that is A LOT of water. With no nozzle, a much larger volume of water can be passed into the intake, which I bet could be enough to blow the engine

YES!! GET IT GET IT!!! hahaha

Giggidy, giggidy

6.72:1 · « **Reply #148 on:** Jun 01, 2006, 07:20:23 AM »

I know my diesel Benz is fairly high-compression, no need for any extra cooling, as it is not quite the speed-demon.

rEdnECkwHeE1eR · « **Reply #149 on:** Jun 02, 2006, 12:18:23 AM »

damn

All i gotta say, Nothing like an all toyota power house, makes them 4.3s look like jokes. I gotta see this thing.

So how do you know how much water to do? my buddy has a '05 Subaru STi and is always looking for more power, this sounds like a good way to make power for little $$$.
I think I remember you saying that you REPLACED the intercooler on your MR2 with a water inj system, I could see there being a big advantage to having both, because his internals will handle tons more boost but the turbo wont due to heat, this sounds like it may be the ticket???

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