Author Topic: Vented Brake Rotors (Read 23054 times)

brainlessfool · « **Reply #30 on:** Mar 28, 2003, 03:18:54 PM »

yeah, post'um. I just gots ta know!:thumb:

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #31 on:** Mar 28, 2003, 05:50:14 PM »

ok bare with me this one takes some explaining.
first off double check that all your hardware is in tip
top shape (you know that it is already cause of your
pre trip checkup right? )

next basic math tells us the closer to the fulcrum
or pivot point we have the work load the easier the
work will be, in this case we want to stop.
the brake booster rod is threaded on the pedal end
pull the pin that secures it and all the nuts that hold the booster assembly now pull the whole thing you might have to pull the break lines off of the master (i didnt but my truck is weird like that)
pull the break pedal assembly out
you need to drill a hole about 1/2 in. above the origional hole drilled in the pedal for the booster rod clevis.
now you need to elongate the holes that mounted the
booster assembly to the fire wall. its easier to do this to the reinforcement plate on the inside of the firewall at the same time by putting a couple of bolts back in and using a peanut grinder with a carbide bit
now once that is done bolt the whole thing back in but on the inside when you put the nuts back on use machine washers not the cheep ones for daily use!
once its all back in its higher position and tight tack the washers to the reinforcement plate on the inside just to be safe now the booster rod needs to be adjusted so there is almost no play in the pedal and you will need to adjust your brake light switch as well
the break pedal should sit a bit higher up in its travel
and it shouldnt need much moretravel to stop now if everything is adjusted right on the edge of break drag
now on the rear i just have an 86 axle recently (aka
before the engine went)

i took the load valve out of the system the back locked up mean! so i fixed it the true hillbilly way i pinched the line with a hammer on the inside of the framerail yeah i know its butch but i got pissed cause of my lack of forethought but i kept denting it more and more until the front to back bias is about perfect!! good luck and happy stopping :chug:

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #32 on:** Mar 28, 2003, 06:11:55 PM »

dang after rereading that i almost sound like im talking to little kids
sorry didnt mean to sound that way just wanted to get the picture across clearly. good luck

brainlessfool · « **Reply #33 on:** Mar 29, 2003, 10:34:35 AM »

you pinched off the rear brake line?

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #34 on:** Mar 29, 2003, 01:14:43 PM »

not totally just enough to get the amount of breaking that i needed to stop. but in essence yes i basically did pinch it off

Rock_Starr · « **Reply #35 on:** Mar 31, 2003, 08:09:55 AM »

Good call with changing the leverage ratio. And your write up didnt seem condecending, just comprehensive. :chug:

And the hammer adjusted proportioning system is Redtech>

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #36 on:** Mar 31, 2003, 08:05:45 PM »

go to pic testing and look close at the windshield on my truck youll understand :heyhey:

mr4x42u · « **Reply #37 on:** Apr 02, 2003, 01:59:26 AM »

There is a kit to change over to chevy master cyl for better pressure..It uses the same toyota booster but runs a chev master cyl..Can you say SSSSSSSTTTTTOOOOPPPPP!!!!!

mr4x42u · « **Reply #38 on:** Apr 02, 2003, 02:00:32 AM »

Quote

[offtopic]OFFTOPIC! [/offtopic]

don't get mad,,,,get even... :thumb:

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #39 on:** Apr 02, 2003, 08:26:52 AM »

my next mod to the brakes is going to be a manual master cyl. yeah i know its going backwards but ill use a 2 ton master im talking 1.5 in
bore! not 13/16 like stock. i figure it will go along with my manual crossover that is waiting to go on when it runs again!

that adapter is just a piece of 1/2 in plat with 8 holes drilled in it real basic stuff. about a month ago i was looking around on the net and found a couple of places that sold them i think they were anyware from 45 to 100 bucks!!!! :smack:damned crooks go to a fab shop theyll give you the metal as scrap!!

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #40 on:** Apr 02, 2003, 09:41:05 AM »

Quote

Well if the screwdriver fell out..... the flat tire it caused would hold you back :~~: :~~:

thats why you get some of those tiny bungy straps and tie the screw drivers to them

brainlessfool · « **Reply #41 on:** Apr 02, 2003, 11:22:30 AM »

bunngy cored and screwdreiver e-brake!! how cool can you get??:thumb:

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #42 on:** Apr 02, 2003, 04:11:35 PM »

i have a hydraulic lock ready to be hidden for the front brakes. its one of the cool ones that you can turn on without hitting the brakes but if some degenerit bottomfeeder steals it the first time he hits the brakes they are stuck on!!!!
see no e brake not even any brackets at all!

brainlessfool · « **Reply #43 on:** May 01, 2003, 10:57:06 AM »

Well went out and ordered the fj 40 rotors and 90 v6 calipers today, so we'll see how it works out. will have to see if I need to space the wheels out.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #44 on:** May 01, 2003, 04:46:51 PM »

cant see why you would unless your running front wheel drive offset!

brainlessfool · « **Reply #45 on:** May 02, 2003, 07:33:04 AM »

maybe to clear the calipers?

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #46 on:** May 02, 2003, 06:54:10 PM »

they dont add enough offset to even talk of as far as ive found. ive never known of anybody having clearance issues with this swap if you want i can measure mine to ease your mind.

gferris5 · « **Reply #47 on:** May 02, 2003, 07:10:36 PM »

hey how much did the swap end up running you in the end if you don't mind me asking?

brainlessfool · « **Reply #48 on:** May 03, 2003, 03:32:06 AM »

calipers, pads, and rotors so far have run about $225

Rock_Starr · « **Reply #49 on:** May 03, 2003, 10:17:52 AM »

WT,
Where from and what make on that line lock?
Man, I am just full of questions today! Heh heh.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #50 on:** May 03, 2003, 07:07:23 PM »

uhhhh it was mico or micro, lock made in Minkota Minnesota if that helps. I cant remember what happened to the tag. Youll probobly find it at a heavy truck place. The one i use came out of a 2 ton hop truck.
the cool thing about it is if you flip the lever it does nothing till you hit the breaks then it kicks in, just as hard as you hit the brakes! Just think of what a thief would think of that!!!

brainlessfool · « **Reply #51 on:** May 05, 2003, 12:45:12 PM »

I got one for work years ago at NAPA, mico lock

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #52 on:** May 08, 2003, 05:28:46 PM »

hey brainless I didnt realize that people actually have had issues with the wheels not clearing. beings this forum was down Ive been browsing pirates and have heard enough clearance issues to see your point, sorry for doubting you but I hadnt had any such issues. I am the only yota around with the swap and I have run a lot of different wheels and had no probs so I didnt figure anyone else had either. Good Luck
White Trash

brainlessfool · « **Reply #53 on:** May 16, 2003, 03:14:21 PM »

Well put the frist one one tonight, rotor went right on!butt the caliper hits the sheald:sob: so a little time with the saws-all sould solve that in a herat beat! will get to in the morning. still have the wheel cleance to look forward too. will let ya all know how it goes tomarrow. Oh, I see a lot of ppl putting V-6 rear ends in old minis like mine(83) and was wondering , if a V-6 will fit in an old (83) toy, will a 83 rear end fit in a V-6 housing? thinking the V-6 housing would have better brakes than my stock 83 does and don't want to spend the $$$:ack: for rear disk, or have to mess with the e-brake thing. justy a thougt, any ideas?

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #54 on:** May 16, 2003, 11:12:59 PM »

forgot about the ebrake thing in your other post on this sub. you need the other cables on the housing because that housing is wider by 3 in. and a 4 cyl housing will work also.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #55 on:** May 17, 2003, 03:06:29 AM »

so a v-6 housing is wider? cool! that would be nice. so it just a bolt in and its wider, hummm now if anyone can tell me if the brakes are :better:? I'll have to start looking for a v-6 housing with the brake on it:idea:

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #56 on:** May 17, 2003, 05:52:10 AM »

no need to use a v-6 housing like I said a 4 cul will work just fine thats what I run all the brakes are the same size etc. and yes thebreaks are much better thats what I meant by securing your load valve to the bed that is to give better fluid flow to the bigger wheel cyl's

brainlessfool · « **Reply #57 on:** May 18, 2003, 05:27:59 AM »

WELL GOT UM ON, WENT GOOD. JUST BOOGERED UP ONE STUD A BIT, HAD TO GO BUT A DIE TO FIX it . and it does seam to pull to the left a bit untill the rotors heat up, hope that will go away soon, maybe some "stuff" needs to burn off. butt very happy with it so far. brake pedel a bit closer to the floor now. must be the bigger pistons.anyway so far so good. oh I could not but "loaded" calipers so had to get the hardware kit too. just so if anyone elas is looking in to this, dont forget to buy the haedware kit before to start!

brainlessfool · « **Reply #58 on:** May 25, 2003, 05:12:33 AM »

fronts are fine now, and I'm in the middle of putting on 90 v-6 rear brakes on the truck(83) and I hit a small snag. the inside hub on the newer drums is bigger than the 83 axle hub, so when I put the drum on it flops around on the studs. not too good.any ideas? may have to go to a freind with a machine shop and get a spacer made. and I was woundering will a tondera booster and master work on a 83? anyone? help:dunno: ...........the fool

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #59 on:** May 25, 2003, 09:34:36 PM »

someone had done the same thing to my toy before I got ahold of it.
the brakes grabbed like crazy and it felt like I had egg shaped drums because of the hub diff. Why not swap the whole axle assembly under your truck and enjoy the 3" wider axle to boot?

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