Author Topic: How to Pass Smog (Read 262828 times)

xhootiehoox · « **Reply #300 on:** Mar 26, 2016, 09:21:03 PM »

He told me exactly that my o2 was the problem 15.6 was way high needs to be at a 8 or lower

BigMike · « **Reply #301 on:** Mar 27, 2016, 10:52:33 PM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Mar 26, 2016, 09:00:11 PM

ok, so here is my take on it, I get why they do it, they don't want some unsafe piece of junk cruising around..... but their enforcement of it is flawed...

X2. I understand the need for less pollution. I don't like the visual inspection. If it passes the emissions then it's good. That said however, how then could they control what one owner does from the next when I could have a huge turbo installed and then leave the wastegate open for no boost.....pass emissions, then of course boost it to the moon in a condition that would fail emissions. But at least I did use the key word for this program in the previous sentence: control.

Still it's upsetting that I went through a lot of work to replace 1970s carbureted technology on my truck with modern OBD-II and they don't like what I've done since which is the installation of an open element air filter. Oh sure like that air filter is going to turn this modern, efficient 3RZ-FE engine into a polluter worse than the spaghetti mess of vacuum lines that was the carbureted 22R. Frankly they should be paying me bi-annually: "Get out of smog pass + smog credit reimbursement" and send me bi-annual certificates reminding me of how thankful they are for my contribution to the environment.

This would only make sense if the air resource board was actually a resource board for the air.

Regards,
BigMike

jimbo74 · « **Reply #302 on:** Mar 28, 2016, 12:26:30 AM »

Quote from: xhootiehoox on Mar 26, 2016, 09:21:03 PM

He told me exactly that my o2 was the problem 15.6 was way high needs to be at a 8 or lower

well that is not something they fail for, but it is on the VIR, so either he was wrong, or that is not what he said......

see:

can you post your VIR?

xhootiehoox · « **Reply #303 on:** Mar 28, 2016, 07:06:55 AM »

It won't let me upload a pic from my phone but the paper looks nothing like that

xhootiehoox · « **Reply #304 on:** Mar 28, 2016, 07:09:30 AM »

My vir just says sample dilution

OVRAROK · « **Reply #305 on:** Mar 28, 2016, 07:11:03 AM »

Quote from: xhootiehoox on Mar 28, 2016, 07:06:55 AM

It won't let me upload a pic from my phone but the paper looks nothing like that

have you tried using tapatalk, that's the only way I can post pics

xhootiehoox · « **Reply #306 on:** Mar 28, 2016, 07:31:10 AM »

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

xhootiehoox · « **Reply #307 on:** Mar 28, 2016, 07:31:50 AM »

That's the paper he gave me

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jimbo74 · « **Reply #308 on:** Mar 28, 2016, 04:05:19 PM »

ok, so he didn't even run the test....

according to that paper, there are no limits, so not sure what he is trying to feed you... but that was not a smog test.....

they are required, by law, to provide the VIR, pass or fail.......

fordh8r · « **Reply #309 on:** Mar 28, 2016, 06:20:48 PM »

How can they fail you for putting out higher amounts of O2 when all your other numbers look so good? It seems that smog tech has something against your vehicle putting higher amounts of oxygen into the air. WTF! That makes absolutely no sense since the only 3 they bang you for is the CO, HC and NOX. Notice CO2 and O2 do not show the headings of "AVE", "TESTED" and "MAX"? That guy is high!

emsvitil · « **Reply #310 on:** Mar 28, 2016, 07:12:21 PM »

Air is 21% O2

The only way you could get 15.6% is with an air pump on the exhaust or a swiss cheese exhaust system.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #311 on:** Mar 29, 2016, 01:54:01 AM »

Quote from: emsvitil on Mar 28, 2016, 07:12:21 PM

Air is 21% O2

The only way you could get 15.6% is with an air pump on the exhaust or a swiss cheese exhaust system.

I think he did state that he had exhaust leaks and the guy didn't want to test it because of that... although, that little snippet of what you posted is not a VIR ----

xhootiehoox · « **Reply #312 on:** Mar 29, 2016, 07:22:05 AM »

All right fellas I got it to pass it was because my muffler didn't have enough down spout for the smog tec could get the stick in it finally passed I'm so happy lol I had air coming I in the back of the muffler

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Someday · « **Reply #313 on:** Mar 03, 2017, 11:25:10 PM »

Old thread, I know.
I'm in Europe, some countries are going to ban petrol cars from 2025. I'll need to find a way to convert my 4Runner first generation to electric :/ ...

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #314 on:** Mar 04, 2017, 12:37:37 AM »

Quote from: Someday on Mar 03, 2017, 11:25:10 PM

Old thread, I know.
I'm in Europe, some countries are going to ban petrol cars from 2025. I'll need to find a way to convert my 4Runner first generation to electric :/ ...

"Some countries" in Europe are stupid. They should ban terrorists.

How the hell are they going to ban gasoline cars!?

Converting a 4Runner to electric will happen when AutoZone stocks an ECK. Electric Conversion Kit. It will come with an optional 1 month, or 1 year battery. The kit will only cost $X,XXX.99. The replacement batteries will be $XX,XXX.99.

Amazon will ship them free from China. Or, you can find them at Harbor Freight for $xx.99. The batteries will be $x.99 for the optional 1 day or 1 week, with a return to manufacturer only warranty.

With your HF coupon, you can get a free battery terminal cleaner with any battery purchase.

Gnarls.

Someday · « **Reply #315 on:** Mar 04, 2017, 01:08:03 AM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Mar 04, 2017, 12:37:37 AM

"Some countries" in Europe are stupid. They should ban terrorists.

How the hell are they going to ban gasoline cars!?

Converting a 4Runner to electric will happen when AutoZone stocks an ECK. Electric Conversion Kit. It will come with an optional 1 month, or 1 year battery. The kit will only cost $X,XXX.99. The replacement batteries will be $XX,XXX.99.

Amazon will ship them free from China. Or, you can find them at Harbor Freight for $xx.99. The batteries will be $x.99 for the optional 1 day or 1 week, with a return to manufacturer only warranty.

With your HF coupon, you can get a free battery terminal cleaner with any battery purchase.

Gnarls.

I don't think ban gasoline car's going to be simple. There're a lot of cars in the market for that to be possible. Probably we'll have to pay higher taxes for our trucks. That'll be the first step, for sure.

Where can I get that HF cupon?

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #316 on:** Mar 04, 2017, 01:10:27 AM »

Quote from: Someday on Mar 04, 2017, 01:08:03 AM

Where can I get that HF cupon?

http://www.harborfreight.com/

Gnarls.

user635 · « **Reply #317 on:** May 17, 2018, 04:17:06 PM »

Hello,

1981 toyota 22r 4x4 California truck. I'm trying to get it smogged. Redid the 40ft of vacuum line, tested the VSV's, TSV, ASV, ERG... and they seem to be functioning correctly. The air bypass hose from the smog pump (Air injection system) puffs (puf-puff-puff) when the truck is fully warmed up in time with the clicking 2nd VSV. Is this normal? The rate increases with RPM. Just want to check before I take it in, as the manual doesn't state what proper fully warmed up functioning is supposed to be.

Jim

Snowtoy · « **Reply #318 on:** May 17, 2018, 05:16:21 PM »

Did you check the vacuum advance module, the baffels will degrade over time.

How old is the cat, is it a CARB approved one?

user635 · « **Reply #319 on:** May 17, 2018, 07:34:36 PM »

Thanks for the reply ST. Both advance and retard pull and hold vacuum. The temp valves pass air when they should cold or warm and the cat is original. When I got tested before and failed with an HC count of 155 (152 was pass. On previous smog checks HC was 1-15), I rebuilt the carb, replaced all 40ft of vacuum hose (the ACV hose had a hole in it), tested components (which led to pulling the EGR and cleaning it pipe, as it wouldn't kill the engine when you pulled vacuum on it). I had also, in 2015, pulled the computer and resoldered all the connections, as most of the solder had rotted off).

So, now I'm down to checking if the behavior of the Air Injection system (Smog pump) is behaving as it should when warm. Is it supposed to puff out of the bypass hose when running? Once the truck hits 110 degrees (VSV is activated), idle gets slightly rough and the bypass puffs. Any other ideas or experience?

Thanks again,
Jim

fasterspider · « **Reply #320 on:** May 18, 2018, 01:21:13 PM »

Have you rebuilt the head yet? Pretty amazing what a new set of valve guide seals can do for a California smog test, my rig went from gross polluter to pass with flying colors with the install of new high quality valve guide seals. I had to replace the cat also, it was badly contaminated.

user635 · « **Reply #321 on:** May 18, 2018, 03:16:51 PM »

FS,

I have not, and I do need valve stem seals and likely a valve/seat touch up. Barring actually getting a garage built anytime soon in order to do a 3rz swap, I was planning on putting a 20r head on this Fall. I have a new o2 sensor to install tomorrow and then Monday see how the test goes. Do you have any experience on the AI pump bypass hose output? I'm trying to get an idea of normal behavior of the system to benchmark.

Jim

fasterspider · « **Reply #322 on:** May 18, 2018, 06:47:25 PM »

Quote from: user635 on May 18, 2018, 03:16:51 PM

FS,

I have not, and I do need valve stem seals and likely a valve/seat touch up. Barring actually getting a garage built anytime soon in order to do a 3rz swap, I was planning on putting a 20r head on this Fall. I have a new o2 sensor to install tomorrow and then Monday see how the test goes. Do you have any experience on the AI pump bypass hose output? I'm trying to get an idea of normal behavior of the system to benchmark.

Jim

No idea what so ever, my 22R is my first Toyota but, I have been rebuilding Honda motorcycle engines for 17 years and the mechanical experience kind of carries over to the Yota.
My valve guide seals that failed were only 18 months old, this is what happens when you buy cheap ebay long blocks, you pay twice plus the labor be it yours or worse, if you paid to have it done.
I do all of my own mechanical work except for diff building, I leave that to a shop that does the stuff for a living.
Anyway, Viton rubber is what I recommend for your valve guide seal materiel.
Chances are your AI pump may well be working fine, I think it is not your problem.

user635 · « **Reply #323 on:** May 20, 2018, 10:23:20 AM »

FS,

Thanks for the info. You and I are similar in what we do mechanically. This is my 3rd Toyota 4x4 since 1983, maybe next summer it will be time to swap for an RZ motor, My 100hp engine is now likely around 80... Never strong to begin with.

Jim

zidaro · « **Reply #324 on:** Oct 15, 2019, 04:52:26 PM »

anyone remember where they set their valves at to get improved readings? 87 22re cali. 😅

i know its an intake loose, exhaust tighter game. 0.01/0.01 will that do it??

sirdeuce · « **Reply #325 on:** Oct 15, 2019, 05:32:23 PM »

Intake loose. exhaust tight. More like .004" intake loose and .002" exhaust tight. Reduces A/F mix to lower HC and retains a little more exhaust to lower NOx. Not that it does a whole lot, but every little bit helps. For ignition timing, if your NOx is typically high back off 2 degrees, if the NOx is typically low advance 2 degrees from stock. Advancing would help with HCs and retarding helps with NOx. The program allows for a 2 degree discrepancy in ignition timing. Any tech that fails for a couple of degrees is just trying to get more money. Either way, bolt in your good catalyst and make sure it's HOT.

itsatoy · « **Reply #326 on:** Aug 15, 2020, 12:30:58 AM »

I have problems trying to pass smog every time , luckily I know the guys at the smog shop and they will put me on manual mode until I get it right then run me through the real test which helps a lot , doing this sometimes six times before getting it right has taught me a few things like, I've used E85 in small amounts (85%
alcohol) which does lower emissions but also raises NOX , so the right ratio is important , also another trick is supposed to be acetone ( only a couple ounces to a tank of gas (I'm sure its not good for your fuel system) its supposed to help your fuel burn more completely ,,,reading your results HC too high means un burnt fuel ie: spark plugs or other ignition component not working sufficiently ,,,,,CO too high running too rich ,,,too much choke , dirty air filter , etc. ...NOX too high , too high cylinder temp , EGR not working , too much alcohol etc. ...Ive tried and used all of the above ,.also timing is a major player in this , a couple degrees can make big changes , they are supposed to allow a few degrees in either direction but this can vary depending on where you go ,....the last time I got it to pass I got all but the CO in range , so I ended up making a small slice in a vacuum hose inside of my air cleaner to create a small vacuum leak and make it run leaner , but not so much to bring my idle over limit and that was the trick that got me to pass ,,,,then I pull the cat for another two years ,,,,I hate these smog laws that I don't even believe are laws ,.CARB is a government agency that is not a legislative art of government and has no power to make laws , also we all live in the same air so how can you have to smog in one county and not the next? that is discriminating as far as I'm concerned , regardless of what they claim of the air quality, laws are supposed to be applied equally and without prejudice , that is what our legal system is (supposedly) based upon ,.....ok .............rant over for now ...

sirdeuce · « **Reply #327 on:** Aug 16, 2020, 11:03:22 AM »

Not sure why E-85 increases your NOx, the alcohol reduces combustion temps. For smog I typically dump 2-3 gallons of E-85 in my tank. HC and CO drop by 15-20% (tested with and without on the same day) and NOx dropped around 10%. My car ran pretty clean as it was, but did the thing out of curiosity. What did go up was the O2 and CO2. That was a 1987 MR2 with a stock 1.6l 4AGE.

Acetone acts as a surface tension release with gasoline, makes the gas "softer" and easier to atomize, easier to burn completely. As for acetone being bad for your fuel system? The conditioners added to todays fuels are enough protection for the ethanol and that few ounces of acetone in a full tank.
I did the acetone thing in my 2002 Taco for a couple of months, for the fuel mileage, gained about 1/2 to 1 mile per gallon. Not worth the effort. Not sure how emission would change didn't go for that test, but I'm sure it would help with a properly running engine that would pass anyway.

But the best way to pass an emissions test is to have a healthy engine with clean injectors or carb and a healthy cat. Make sure the cat is HOT! Means your tech needs to cooperate and test right after a highway run and not let the thing cool down.

RUGER · « **Reply #328 on:** Aug 16, 2020, 11:57:04 AM »

i used to put a few bottles of rubbing alcohol in the tank. like sirdeuce said get the cat hot and have them check it hot.

here in az i dont have to smog, just phx area has to.

RUGER

Plekto · « **Reply #329 on:** Aug 18, 2020, 10:27:22 AM »

I second that - run it for 30 minutes or more to get the cat hot. Adding alcohol won't ruin anything, but if you add to much to will lower the octane too much and you will need to nudge the timing a bit. There is a small window/amount to play with it and still pass. Often tweaking it to run a bit leaner will fix the problem as well - then just adjust it back.

But the real solution is to get out of California. Move up near Reno ( as an example ) and have all the fun you want - no smog aside from making sure the system is operating.

BigMike [OP]

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