Author Topic: How to Pass Smog  (Read 83776 times)

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Snowtoy

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #270 on: January 09, 2012, 12:55:44 AM »
It looks like you could have two possible problems, one being the cat, the other the air injection valve. 

At my last test last January, I failed the HC test at idle.  The tech said the low CO% of 12.3 was a sign that the cat wasn't working correctly, and that it should be 14-15%(for my 3.0).  I swapped in a new CARB compliant cat, and the CO went from 12.3 to 14.9%, and the HC's went from 167 at idle(portion of test the truck failed) to 10.  A new cat should reduce your HC's by about 50% or more, if your current cat isn't working correctly.  The old now non-compliant CARB cats had very small catalyst chambers compared to the oem cats, weighed over 50% less. this gave them  very narrow temperature range, a short life expectancy, and is why they are no longer CARB compliant. 

Difference in size between the oem and standard aftermarket catalytic converters.  The "X" is the size of the catalyst chamber from screen to screen.



The new CARB compliant cats are bigger and  heavier than the old ones, but still nowhere near the same size/weight as the oem ones.

The Pulse secondary air injection valve(PAIR) or the vsv xould also be bad.  The PAIR system injects fresh air into the exhaust to prolong the burn cycle, which reduces HC's and CO's prior to the cat.  An '86 I had failed its smog test w/a new cat, proper timing, valve adjustment, and new plug/wires.  The tech said the high NOx and low O2 were signs that the air injection valve wasn't working correctly.  I swapped the valve out with a spare one I had and the truck passed w/o issue.
More than tread lightly, leave it like you were never there, nor anyone else.

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mrtt999

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #271 on: January 09, 2012, 02:09:42 AM »
Snowtoy, thank you for the information!! Very much appreciated!! The CAT that is on the rig now is similar to the one in your first photo, on the left - small, and it is welded in.  When I purchased the O2 sensor, after the first test failure, I asked about a replacement CAT, and I was told they are all sold as weld in units now (California) due to theft issues.  Is there any way to check the welded CAT functionality, to determine if it is "good", and working properly, other than using a diagnostics scope/sniffer machine?  Can you please pin-point the VSV valve you mentioned? Possibly post a pic?  Thank you!

mrtt999

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #272 on: January 09, 2012, 01:51:14 PM »
I failed to mention in my first post, that before the first test, I had to replace the BVSV valve for EGR (purple color, front of motor) which was missing. PO put a temp sender in its location  :bull crap:.  I replaced all vaccuum hoses at that time.  About this same time I re-cored the radiator and replaced all hoses, belts, coolant.

The BVSV valves for AAP and SC look like they might be original, but it is difficult to tell.  The VSV on the passenger fender near the battery is in place.  I am going to recheck everything again and reset the timing and idle. 

The factory idle setting is 700 rpm for M/T.  I can't get the idle below ~800.  Below that and it runs like crap and wants to die.  I have it at ~ 2 turns out.  Is this OK/correct?

I don't know if the odometer is correct, but the truck has 237k on it, and the motor looks like it was rebuilt or at least resealed not too long ago.  I don't have any history on the motor unfortunately, but it runs great, just rich at the moment. 

emsvitil

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #273 on: January 09, 2012, 05:30:59 PM »
You can set the idle up (even in CA)

I think the rpm limit is 1200, I usually have it about 1000 for the test.
Ed
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mrtt999

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #274 on: January 09, 2012, 07:35:00 PM »
I'll try bumping the idle up a bit.  Thank you emsvitil.

Snowtoy

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #275 on: January 11, 2012, 02:17:38 AM »
Snowtoy, thank you for the information!! Very much appreciated!! The CAT that is on the rig now is similar to the one in your first photo, on the left - small, and it is welded in.  When I purchased the O2 sensor, after the first test failure, I asked about a replacement CAT, and I was told they are all sold as weld in units now (California) due to theft issues.  Is there any way to check the welded CAT functionality, to determine if it is "good", and working properly, other than using a diagnostics scope/sniffer machine?  Can you please pin-point the VSV valve you mentioned? Possibly post a pic?  Thank you!

The only way to test the cat would be to drill a hole in the exhaust tube before the cat so the smog shop could see what the pre-cat values are.  Given the type of cat it is, if it is more than a few years old it is likely bad.  The one in my '91 has was 4yrs old and had less than 4k miles(wheeling rig) and at the last smog test last May it tested on the hi side of passing whereas it was on the low side when it was new, and the engine has as just as many miles as the cat.  Welding them in wont prevent a theft either, not when thief are cutting them out with a battery powered saws-all.  You alsp don't have to weld the universal ones in either, traditional exhaust clamps will work fine.

You might be able to find the vsv valve for the air injection valve it in the '85 FSM(downloadable) located here FSM's.  I don't currently have any rigs w/the 22r in them, I will check my '84 FSM, and see if it has an illustration showing its location.
More than tread lightly, leave it like you were never there, nor anyone else.

'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, w/33's & 4.88's, rear ARB, my own custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 white X-cab 22re, w/35's, 5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, custom Flatbed/Front Bumper/interior, dual cases.
New money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

DAILYspec

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #276 on: March 05, 2012, 11:29:10 PM »
I passed today no problem, Castrol 10w40 with 1/2 qt of Lucas stabilizer, A/F 3 1/2 turns out, timing set to 5 BTDC and "cheap" 87 gas($4.29 a gallon) I should mention I drove for about an hour beforehand and left it running with the heater on blast as i awaited my turn(it was 70 degrees today), the smog guy was pissed, haha!

Rocksurfer

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #277 on: March 06, 2012, 05:38:06 AM »
They can test the cat by determining the amount of heat it creates, yes there's an app for that. :gap:
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mrtt999

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #278 on: April 02, 2012, 02:19:12 PM »
I'm still battling issues with my smog ....  Can someone please tell me where the deceleration valve vacuum line connects?  Any pictures would be greatly appreciated.  I haven't found any picture's or diagrams of this in fsm, or elsewhere.  Thank you.
 

yotacrawler1

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #279 on: April 18, 2012, 08:59:12 AM »
can u smog if ur running on propane? just take it to the ref? or will the take one look at it and say no.

Rocksurfer

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #280 on: April 18, 2012, 10:31:33 PM »
You need to get a certificate from the California Air Resources Board in order to use alternative fuels in CA. Sounds stupid but they don't like letting people switch the types of fuel used unless the emmissions equipment can deal with the type of fuel you plan on using. So to answer your question you would get turned away from the inspection station.
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Talon84x4

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #281 on: April 25, 2012, 12:01:49 AM »
Here goes:

84' 22R, rebuilt  ~4 years ago, 20 over, has passed before

I've failed 6 tests this time around. The only thing i'm failing for right now is NO. As far as the work that a friend and I have done:
-rebuilt multiple carbs (finally found a stock one that runs great)
-replaced and check every vacuum line as well as sealed every leak
-new intake gasket
-new spark plugs
-new EGR
-checked every valve, checked function of all valves + smog pump
-new cat (didn't change a thing unfortunately)
-replaced header with stock manifold (increased back pressure and cut my NO in half)

The only feedback I really get from the testers are "EGR" and "Cat", one finally told me something different and said i'm too lean and cylinder temps are probably too high. I'm about twice as high as i need to be for NO but well below in every other area. Anyone have anything else to check? I've done all i can think to do besides taking it to a gold shield station and bending over. I can post my numbers if it will help. Thanks
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fordh8r

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #282 on: April 25, 2012, 09:11:46 AM »
Here goes:

84' 22R, rebuilt  ~4 years ago, 20 over, has passed before

I've failed 6 tests this time around. The only thing i'm failing for right now is NO. As far as the work that a friend and I have done:
-rebuilt multiple carbs (finally found a stock one that runs great)
-replaced and check every vacuum line as well as sealed every leak
-new intake gasket
-new spark plugs
-new EGR
-checked every valve, checked function of all valves + smog pump
-new cat (didn't change a thing unfortunately)
-replaced header with stock manifold (increased back pressure and cut my NO in half)

The only feedback I really get from the testers are "EGR" and "Cat", one finally told me something different and said i'm too lean and cylinder temps are probably too high. I'm about twice as high as i need to be for NO but well below in every other area. Anyone have anything else to check? I've done all i can think to do besides taking it to a gold shield station and bending over. I can post my numbers if it will help. Thanks

  I had the exact same problem with my '84 22R. Turns out my 02 sensor was no good! YUP, that's right! The way to tell if it is working and that the electric Diverter Valve is functioning is simple. Take the air cleaner lid off and while the engine is running slowly raise the engine RPM. What you should hear (about 1200-1500 RPM) is the air being diverted to the air cleaner in cycling bursts (kinda sounds like a duck call. you can't mistake it). If you hear that, then it's working. If you don't, then either the 02 Sensor is bad or the Diverter Valve is no good causing air to always be diverted to the exhaust port causing a lean exhaust mixture which will show as High Nox. The electric portion of the Diverter Valve is simply 12V and you can operate it manually to test it. It receives 12V all the time with the key on and is grounded through the Emissions Computer when it see the appropriate signal range from the 02 Sensor. Just FYI  :biggthumpup:

  When I tested mine, it was diverting air to the air cleaner constantly without the cycling. once I change the 02 Sensor it passed and life was good again.

emsvitil

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #283 on: April 25, 2012, 01:31:48 PM »
The EGR valve needs some backpressure to work.
So add some more backpressure for the test to lower the NOx

I add this after the cat for testing purposes:

Ed
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22RE  W56B
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Talon84x4

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #284 on: April 25, 2012, 03:01:16 PM »
  I had the exact same problem with my '84 22R. Turns out my 02 sensor was no good! YUP, that's right! The way to tell if it is working and that the electric Diverter Valve is functioning is simple. Take the air cleaner lid off and while the engine is running slowly raise the engine RPM. What you should hear (about 1200-1500 RPM) is the air being diverted to the air cleaner in cycling bursts (kinda sounds like a duck call. you can't mistake it). If you hear that, then it's working. If you don't, then either the 02 Sensor is bad or the Diverter Valve is no good causing air to always be diverted to the exhaust port causing a lean exhaust mixture which will show as High Nox. The electric portion of the Diverter Valve is simply 12V and you can operate it manually to test it. It receives 12V all the time with the key on and is grounded through the Emissions Computer when it see the appropriate signal range from the 02 Sensor. Just FYI  :biggthumpup:

  When I tested mine, it was diverting air to the air cleaner constantly without the cycling. once I change the 02 Sensor it passed and life was good again.

Thank you for the info fordh8r. So I started it up and tried to see if i could hear the switch at all, didn't hear anything at any rpms. Pulled my O2 sensor, definitely bad. Replaced it with new and it's still not switching over. Pulled the hose off the bottom that runs to the air injection tube on the exhaust manifold so that i could see when it was blowing. It's always diverting air to the exhaust, which makes sense, one of the techs said i had too much air getting put in. So i pulled the valves plug and checked it, hooked up some leads and grounded it out and it closed and sent air up to the air cleaner. Now the question is, why isn't my computer grounding it even with the new O2 at any rpm (truck also warmed up & choke off). Could i just ground it out myself for smog purposes to try to pass? Thanks again
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fordh8r

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #285 on: April 26, 2012, 10:29:52 AM »
Thank you for the info fordh8r. So I started it up and tried to see if i could hear the switch at all, didn't hear anything at any rpms. Pulled my O2 sensor, definitely bad. Replaced it with new and it's still not switching over. Pulled the hose off the bottom that runs to the air injection tube on the exhaust manifold so that i could see when it was blowing. It's always diverting air to the exhaust, which makes sense, one of the techs said i had too much air getting put in. So i pulled the valves plug and checked it, hooked up some leads and grounded it out and it closed and sent air up to the air cleaner. Now the question is, why isn't my computer grounding it even with the new O2 at any rpm (truck also warmed up & choke off). Could i just ground it out myself for smog purposes to try to pass? Thanks again

Yer welcome.  8)  In short, no, you can't just ground that because it has to cycle in order to dynamically adjust for the amount of Oxygen content in the exhaust stream under varying loads. Have you checked for voltage on the ECM side of that connector? It should have "key on" voltage and the "Ground" side is controlled by the ECM. Not having gone any further than this before, I might venture a guess at one of the Coolant Temp Sensors possibly having failed and not properly indicating to the ECM that the engine is at "Normal Operating Temp". In which case, it may not know to function as it should thinking that the engine is still "Cold". The wiring that comes from that corner of the intake manifold also may be suspect since I have had some issues with wire breakage in that area of the harness and near those respective sensor connectors. That sounds like the direction I'd be headed in your case.  :thumbs: I'm interested to know what you find.  :beerchug:

Yota4life

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #286 on: September 09, 2012, 05:24:15 PM »
Curious if anyone knows, how much vacuum psi should the egr on a 22re be getting to fully open up? This is what the egr modulator feeds to the egr valve.  Im about too smog my truck again and currently under load it gets about 6psi. Is 6psi plenty to open the egr valve?? I havent installed the cat and the restrictor plate yet so that may help some more with backpressure.
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GRW

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #287 on: October 19, 2012, 06:52:42 AM »

Here goes:

84' 22R, rebuilt  ~4 years ago, 20 over, has passed before

I've failed 6 tests this time around. The only thing i'm failing for right now is NO. As far as the work that a friend and I have done:
-rebuilt multiple carbs (finally found a stock one that runs great)
-replaced and check every vacuum line as well as sealed every leak
-new intake gasket
-new spark plugs
-new EGR
-checked every valve, checked function of all valves + smog pump
-new cat (didn't change a thing unfortunately)
-replaced header with stock manifold (increased back pressure and cut my NO in half)

The only feedback I really get from the testers are "EGR" and "Cat", one finally told me something different and said i'm too lean and cylinder temps are probably too high. I'm about twice as high as i need to be for NO but well below in every other area. Anyone have anything else to check? I've done all i can think to do besides taking it to a gold shield station and bending over. I can post my numbers if it will help. Thanks

So you still have to pass the sniff test? =O
Not that my truck would have a problem (22RE in place or the 22R).
In WA 25 years and your golden (that is the areas that require testing).
I could go V6/V8 if I wanted the fuel bill, been kicking around the newer bigger 4's around.....

MrJoshua77

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #288 on: October 20, 2013, 08:34:50 PM »
I'm a smog tech here in CA. I work at a gold shield station and could help you guys through your smog issues.

Rocksurfer

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Re: How to Pass Smog
« Reply #289 on: March 10, 2014, 07:45:52 PM »
Maybe some day I'll have to try some of these tricks, oh well I guess I'll just have to suffer passing with flying colors again. Though my Co2 was a little high this time.
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