Author Topic: Load sensing valve adjuster (Read 24826 times)

MidgetMike · « **on:** Apr 19, 2005, 08:57:16 AM »

This works on any toyota with a laod sensing valve and rod that attaches to the rear axle. A few ways I have seen this rod removed from the axle is to simply cutt it off and wire it up, cutt it off and let it flop or extend the bracket to accomidate a lift at the axle. But I found a way to use factory parts from the axle end of the rod to actualy provide an addustable bracket that mounts to the valve its self. I think the pic will show what parts are needed for the mod and it provides a great deal of brake adjustibility.

1) I cut the sensing rod off about 4" from the valve to make sure I had enough of the rod sticking out to pass through the bracket described in step 2

2) I used the 2 hole bracket that mounts to the axle and supports the sensing rod, remove the sensing rod via the nut and bolt that attaches it to the 2 hole bracket between the ears. Leave the short arm and ears on the 2 hole bracket, I removed the jam nut from it since it is not needed.

3) Remove the rear most nut on the LSV and mount the bracket on it with the same nut( place the bracket in the same manner it was attached to the axle or up) after you run the sensing rod through the holes in the ears of the short arm.

4) to adjust remove the bracket from the LSV and turn the ears on the threaded short rod up or down for the desired brake bias and remount the bracket.

5) look at the pic because I suck at verbal directions $Beer Chug\'n$

ntsqd · « **Reply #1 on:** Apr 20, 2005, 08:01:45 AM »

What I made.

gonzo · « **Reply #2 on:** Apr 20, 2005, 08:35:11 AM »

I like it, I like it.

BigMike · « **Reply #3 on:** Apr 20, 2005, 09:16:40 AM »

Nah you guys don't have anything on my mod.

This is one of those "I'll just do this for now until I get it fixed later" and what I found out is that if the thing is working, then ya just leave it alone

BigMike · « **Reply #4 on:** Apr 20, 2005, 09:19:06 AM »

Hey, have you guys experimented with it yet? I keep wanting to but its not one of my priorities..

If you raise it, it should put more braking force at the rear. But how does this affect the front brakes? Because they are ran on a completely different system, so I was going to continue to adjust it up and up to the point where the rear brakes begining to lock up, and then just back it down 1/4" or so. Right now I just put it at about the middle and threw that coat hanger on it. But I bet I could raise it up some and help out my front brakes..

No Power · « **Reply #5 on:** Apr 20, 2005, 09:36:19 AM »

Quote from: ntsqd on Apr 20, 2005, 08:01:45 AM

What I made.

I dig your bracket.
I think that I'm gonna copy your idea this week.
I really like the adjustment screw also.
Can't wait to try it out.
As I will be the envy of all my coat hanger using friends.
That is till they see it on here and make there own.
Thanks again for the idea

gonzo · « **Reply #6 on:** Apr 20, 2005, 10:16:56 AM »

Hey, we could call this the M2 Bracket (MidgetMike = M M = M2)

blackdiamond · « **Reply #7 on:** Apr 20, 2005, 11:54:39 AM »

Quote from: BigMike on Apr 20, 2005, 09:19:06 AM

Hey, have you guys experimented with it yet? I keep wanting to but its not one of my priorities..

If you raise it, it should put more braking force at the rear. But how does this affect the front brakes? Because they are ran on a completely different system, so I was going to continue to adjust it up and up to the point where the rear brakes begining to lock up, and then just back it down 1/4" or so. Right now I just put it at about the middle and threw that coat hanger on it. But I bet I could raise it up some and help out my front brakes..

A good idea that i have read is to increase the rear brakes until they lock first on dirt, then back off until the front locks first or at the same time. This will greatly reduce the chance of locking the rear on pavement and losing control. If you live in an area with snow and ice you might want to adjust it differently in the winter to avoid a rear lockup.

brainlessfool · « **Reply #8 on:** Apr 20, 2005, 01:15:14 PM »

hate to say it butt, I like mikey's mod better. less time spent and works the same!

BLF>

<mikey, the king of mods!

MidgetMike · « **Reply #9 on:** Apr 23, 2005, 09:57:13 PM »

It actualy makes a big dif. I was amazed everyone always said raise it all the way and I did and on my first yest I spun out not expecting the rear brakes to lock up at all.

Prismo · « **Reply #10 on:** Apr 23, 2005, 10:05:54 PM »

Nice job Midget Mike. I like it, simple but effective

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #11 on:** Apr 23, 2005, 10:10:50 PM »

Yall think too much. I just take that stupid valve off and "adjust" my flow with a hammer ont he hard line....

KYOTA · « **Reply #12 on:** Apr 23, 2005, 10:23:03 PM »

took mine out and didnt need a proportioning valve , brakes work great at both ends without it

Hyena · « **Reply #13 on:** Apr 23, 2005, 11:32:11 PM »

I just cut mine off, rear brakes work great, need new front pads.

ntsqd · « **Reply #14 on:** Apr 25, 2005, 10:51:00 AM »

Quote from: gonzo on Apr 20, 2005, 08:35:11 AM

I like it, I like it.

I had the BigMike Version for 3 years b4 I decided to trick it out a bit. Now I'm thinking of taking off the whole device. I've had it adjusted all the way up since the BMV days. I'll add a p-valve b/c I have one in the garage. If anyone local to Vta.CA wants my bracket it's yours when it comes off.

Oddmar · « **Reply #15 on:** Apr 30, 2005, 05:14:11 PM »

If you look on the net you can find a thing called a "Wilwood proportioning valve"...it installs next to the master cylinder under the hood. The stock proportioning valve has been stuck on every toy i've owned...we started taking them off and welding the return line to the front closed.
Yes, on a Stock setup there IS a line running from the master cylinder over to the passenger side, then back to the proportioning valve, one going down to the rear axle from the valve, but Also another going back forward and connecting to the front brakes. As you apply the brakes the proportioning valve reduces the fluid going to the rear brakes and sends some forward to apply pressure to the front brakes, before the master cylinder begins working on the front brakes directly with more pedal depression.
The aftermarket Wilwood valve is simply adjusted with a dial, manually, depending on how you've loaded your truck.
Yes, it Does cost $40 bucks, but it's better for those lazy fu*ks like me who don't wanna get muddy crawling under the truck to play with the brake bias. I'm going to run the rear brake line on mine up into the cab, so i can just reach forward to adjust the bias on the dash.

MidgetMike · « **Reply #16 on:** May 03, 2005, 08:21:07 PM »

You must not be to lazy if instead of using the stock valve your gonna run your brake porportioning valve in the cab so you can adjust it

seems like more work

gonzo · « **Reply #17 on:** May 04, 2005, 07:35:21 AM »

Quote from: MidgetMike on May 03, 2005, 08:21:07 PM

You must not be to lazy if instead of using the stock valve your gonna run your brake porportioning valve in the cab so you can adjust it seems like more work

I'm not sure but I think I remember some thing like that on Willy Mammoth?

Oddmar · « **Reply #18 on:** May 11, 2005, 10:54:23 PM »

Build it right or fix it later!...Well i AM lazy....
I re-design everything...some things succesfully.

I've already replaced the frame from the middle of the cab back, built an over-the-driveshaft center traction bar, rebuilt the motor (bored 30 over, 30 over pistons and rings, broad-range cam, header), cut out the bottom/ back of the cab and replaced it with flat 16ga sheet for more cab space, gusseted the rear axle, built my own rear spring pack, built spring plates and flipped the rear u-bolts, installed 20lb propane tank holder behind the rear axle up between frame rails, installed 50ft spring-retractable hose reel under rear of truck where the spare tire usually is on a stock truck, built front and rear ram bumpers out of 3/16th thick steel (double as air tanks), nerf/ slider bars out of 4"x4" box tubing (also air tanks).

So since i already ran new brake line down the traction bar, to protect it and to allow the axle to articulate as much as it likes without yanking the too-short brake line, adding in 2ft more line to put the proportioning valve inside the cab is small potatoes.

guywithuglyyota · « **Reply #19 on:** May 23, 2005, 07:47:53 PM »

"....installed 20lb propane tank holder behind the rear axle... "

Nobody Tailgate this guy

Oddmar · « **Reply #20 on:** May 23, 2005, 11:54:46 PM »

"....installed 20lb propane tank holder behind the rear axle... "
Nobody Tailgate this guy ROFL (2)

Yeah, yeah...funny...NO, It's Not a Pinto

I'll try to post a pic of my rear bumper, but just in case it don't go, it's 9" high by 7"deep and wraps around the sides of the bed a little, built out of 3/16" thick plates. The bumper is very angular-looking and Very strong. I was planning to get a cheap 8000lb Harbor Fright winch for $250. (on sale, i think it's a MileMarker electric without their name on it), going cheap electric for now cause i know i need a winch but i canna afford the $650. 2-spd hydraulic 9000lb MileMarker. Put the cheap electric winch up front for now, but when i get the good hydraulic one put the electric one on the back, so there's a inset center of the rear bumper that will let me mount the winch.

20lb propane tank is there so i can efficently run the external kitchen that i Can set up if i want creature comforts when camping out, or on an overnight camp-out on a 4x4 run. It's Very well protected and if someone hits me going fast enough to crush my bumper, 50ft hose reel And my 9"tall custom-built gusseted frame rails, i'm probably dead anyway.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #21 on:** May 24, 2005, 07:01:24 AM »

I think your bumpers weigh more than my entire truck!

I just ordered a load sensing valve adjustor from AOR4x4, it is possible that I should have flushed the $20 down the toilet.

BigMike · « **Reply #22 on:** May 24, 2005, 07:41:43 AM »

That's pretty nice

over_rev · « **Reply #23 on:** Oct 11, 2005, 11:38:05 AM »

Quote from: BigMike on May 24, 2005, 07:41:43 AM

That's pretty nice

X2
Looks worth it to me.

TurtleTappers91 · « **Reply #24 on:** Mar 30, 2007, 11:30:18 PM »

Quote from: blackdiamond on May 24, 2005, 07:01:24 AM

I think your bumpers weigh more than my entire truck!

I just ordered a load sensing valve adjustor from AOR4x4, it is possible that I should have flushed the $20 down the toilet.

Are you kidding? I'm gonna go buy one right now!!!!

*ROKTOY* · « **Reply #25 on:** Apr 03, 2007, 08:12:09 AM »

So whats the story, I read a post on here the other day that said that LSPV also does more by directing more fluid to the rear brakes in the event of a failure of the front brakes. Any Factory Toyota Mechanic's here that can tell us if this is true or not. I would like to go to a PV but only if the above is false.

AaronB · « **Reply #26 on:** Apr 03, 2007, 02:46:23 PM »

AOR4x4? what is the website name?

blackdiamond · « **Reply #27 on:** Apr 04, 2007, 11:44:04 AM »

Quote from: Aaronb on Apr 03, 2007, 02:46:23 PM

AOR4x4? what is the website name?

I think they are out of business. It was www.aor4x4.com I think. Alcan is selling their orbit-eye springs so maybe they have access to some of the other parts?

AaronB · « **Reply #28 on:** Apr 04, 2007, 11:49:14 AM »

Quote from: blackdiamond on Apr 04, 2007, 11:44:04 AM

I think they are out of business. It was www.aor4x4.com I think. Alcan is selling their orbit-eye springs so maybe they have access to some of the other parts?

I actually found one last night at offroad solutions. $22 shipped

*ROKTOY* · « **Reply #29 on:** Apr 21, 2007, 04:49:46 PM »

MidgetMike [OP]

MidgetMike [OP]

Related Topics