Author Topic: All the stuff from a 22r that could possibly make a 20r run better...??? (Read 9659 times)

redneckcustoms13 · « **Reply #30 on:** Jun 29, 2018, 07:47:55 AM »

Just seems like a waste. If it were in the truck sure, swap the head and go. But having it out just seems logical to spend another $100 and know it's all new.

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #31 on:** Jun 29, 2018, 07:51:04 AM »

Ive never done it before so thats why im hesitant. The price isnt the issue. Can someone tell me what i need to check to size the bearings and rings? The bearings have options for undersized/standard and the rings have different options as well.

helipilot77 · « **Reply #32 on:** Jun 29, 2018, 08:05:08 AM »

I had never rebuilt a motor until I did it either. There is always a first for everything. I’m in the tail end of building my diesel now. Just dive in! You’ll do fine. Follow the Factory Service Manual and you’ll have a new motor.

If you don’t have the FSM PDF here is a link to mine.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dyxpr7pqa4et43o/1985%20Toyota%20Pick-up%20and%204runner%20Factory%20Service%20Manual.pdf?dl=0

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #33 on:** Jul 02, 2018, 06:01:58 AM »

this is a rod bearing. Based on this stamp i am ASSuming that the crank has been turned 0.30 and the bearings i need are the 0.30 over?

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #34 on:** Jul 02, 2018, 07:22:43 AM »

After doing some research on these numbers, i have no clue what they are. The bearing brand is Taiho but when searching their catalog, none of these numbers come up for a 20r. Google is also no help. Is there a way to measure the bearing with a micrometer to determine what size it is?

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #35 on:** Jul 03, 2018, 05:33:21 AM »

Quote from: the_white_shadow on Jul 02, 2018, 07:22:43 AM

.... Is there a way to measure the bearing with a micrometer to determine what size it is?

Yes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkyVhE7Ww0M

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #36 on:** Jul 03, 2018, 05:39:55 AM »

Well, I took the crank out and measured the journals and everything measured within specs of a crank that is all stock. I ordered up all new standard size Clevite rod/main/thrust bearings.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #37 on:** Jul 03, 2018, 06:10:34 AM »

Yeah that's a stock bearing in your hand there.

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #38 on:** Jul 19, 2018, 05:49:19 AM »

Came back with an update. New bearings, new timing chain, new completely rebuilt head (new cam, valves, springs, seals, eats, etc), new aisin oil pump, new oem toyota headgasket, new weber carb adjusted per instructions, etc. and i cant get this thing to fire. After 10 seconds of cranking it will attempt to start but wont.

Things i have tried:
Confirmed timing is correct. Pulled the valve cover and with engine at 0 on the timing mark, the rockers on No. 1 were loose and the distributor rotor pointed at No. 1 plug.
Pulled no. 1 to confirm that i have spark at the plug.
Changed out dizzy to another one. no change.
Sprayed some starting fluid, but no change.
Checked grounds (one from the passenger engine mount to frame/cab/block. ground strap from cab to side of the head.
fuses are good (at least under the dash)
Im getting fuel and spark.
Checked for any leaks at the intake. nothing visual from what i can tell.
valves were adjusted per the FSM prior to startup.

I did swap in a w-56 behind the 20r, but that shouldnt have anything to do with this.

Would not having a pressure regulator not cause the Weber to run? Im using a factory mechanical fuel pump on the head.

Im at a loss here. Anything that i am missing? Before the rebuild it would at least run.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #39 on:** Jul 20, 2018, 03:24:55 AM »

If you are sure you are getting good spark and fuel, I'd look at cam timing and ignition timing. Cam timing (valve events) can affect compression. Can you verify cam timing and do a compression check?

Webers are very finicky... proper fuel pressure is critical.

Gnarls.

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #40 on:** Jul 20, 2018, 04:24:59 AM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Jul 20, 2018, 03:24:55 AM

If you are sure you are getting good spark and fuel, I'd look at cam timing and ignition timing. Cam timing (valve events) can affect compression. Can you verify cam timing and do a compression check?

Webers are very finicky... proper fuel pressure is critical.

Gnarls.

Im for sure getting spark. Now if its a good spark, i dont know. I also pulled the valve cover and verified the timing again (cam timing mark was as 12 and the no. 1 rockers were both loose. Distributor rotor set to no. 1 plug). reset the distributor and still no change. I ordered a fuel regulator for the Weber, but i cant even get it to run on starting fluid so something else is wrong.

I tried a known to be working coil and swapped to a completely different igniter from a 22r and still nothing. I think its something stupid and electrical. There is a plug behind the battery on the passenger side that has two bigger white and black wires going to it, but isnt plugged in to anything. Cant figure out where that goes. Is there a relay/fusible link that controls something that i am missing? The fuses under the dash are all good and even swapped around to verify.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #41 on:** Jul 21, 2018, 03:07:47 AM »

If you have a good spark, some air, and some compression, starting fluid should fire.

Based upon your posts, it sounds like you are doing all the right things. I assume you have fresh cap & rotor, spark plug wires, and plugs? AND.. that you have verified the firing order!

How did you check the spark? I'd pull all spark plugs, take one at a time and ground it, turn the engine over with the starter and look at what kind of spark I get.

Because I'm not an engine builder, I check myself, so while the number one spark plug is out, I'd verify that when the mark on the harmonic balance pulley is sitting at zero degrees, that number one piston is sitting at top dead center... carefully sticking a screw driver into the spark plug hole.

And, the cam sprocket dot is sitting at 11:30.

Before you tried to fire it for the first time, did you get good oil pressure after spinning the engine?

I'm puzzled.

Gnarls.

Gillesdetrail · « **Reply #42 on:** Jul 21, 2018, 07:23:47 AM »

Of you have fuel and spark, I can't think of anything else other than mecanical or ignition timing. Try rotating the ditributor to max advance and max retard see if it starts. When my distributor is at the right spot the rotor points a bit after the n. 1 terminal at TDC, as I set the ignition to about 10-12 deg. BTDC.

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #43 on:** Jul 21, 2018, 09:23:12 AM »

I figured it out yesterday. The distributor drive gear was completely shot causing the distributor to fall out of time and turn freely. I swapped one from the 22re that I had and it fired right up. Thanks for all the help. Now I have to figure out a loud ticking from the top end. It’s a new head so I’m leaning towards a bad rocker.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #44 on:** Jul 22, 2018, 04:40:14 AM »

Quote from: the_white_shadow on Jul 19, 2018, 05:49:19 AM

... i cant get this thing to fire. After 10 seconds of cranking it will attempt to start but wont.

Things i have tried: ..... Changed out dizzy to another one. no change.

Glad you figured it out.

Hmmm.... it seems odd that both distributors would have the same failure??

Gnarls.

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #45 on:** Jul 22, 2018, 09:04:45 AM »

It wasn’t the distributors. It was the gear on the end of the cam that was shot. It affected both distributors the same.

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #46 on:** Jul 23, 2018, 05:14:02 AM »

And here is why it was making that awful tapping noise in the top end. Rocker arm assembly was fucked up.

the 86 4runner 22re rockers were a direct fit.

And just to show off, here is a pic of the truck on my new-to-me lift that i just installed in the shop. Not sure how i worked on trucks all these years lying on my back.

EASYRYDERDANGER · « **Reply #47 on:** Jul 23, 2018, 06:00:04 AM »

Picture of worn drive gear?

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #48 on:** Jul 23, 2018, 06:34:50 AM »

ill snap a pic this afternoon, but its pretty bad compared to the one in the pic above. The edges of some of the splines were chipped and they were severely worn.

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #49 on:** Jul 24, 2018, 05:15:16 AM »

The old one:

8D3TOY · « **Reply #50 on:** Jul 25, 2018, 09:26:30 PM »

If that roll bar from the green truck is not going to be used I'll gladly pay to ship it my way, within reason of course. 92691 CA

EASYRYDERDANGER · « **Reply #51 on:** Jul 26, 2018, 07:11:09 AM »

I didn't go back and read but is that a new cam in there? If its old those old rockers may have worn away at the cam lobes...

the_white_shadow · « **Reply #52 on:** Jul 26, 2018, 07:14:49 AM »

Quote from: EASYRYDERDANGER on Jul 26, 2018, 07:11:09 AM

I didn't go back and read but is that a new cam in there? If its old those old rockers may have worn away at the cam lobes...

Yeah, its a completely new head with new cam/springs/valves, etc.

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