Author Topic: All the stuff from a 22r that could possibly make a 20r run better...???  (Read 2494 times)

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redneckcustoms13

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Just seems like a waste. If it were in the truck sure, swap the head and go. But having it out just seems logical to spend another $100 and know it's all new.
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

the_white_shadow [OP]

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Ive never done it before so thats why im hesitant. The price isnt the issue. Can someone tell me what i need to check to size the bearings and rings? The bearings have options for undersized/standard and the rings have different options as well.

helipilot77

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I had never rebuilt a motor until I did it either. There is always a first for everything. Iím in the tail end of building my diesel now. Just dive in! Youíll do fine. Follow the Factory Service Manual and youíll have a new motor.

If you donít have the FSM PDF here is a link to mine.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dyxpr7pqa4et43o/1985%20Toyota%20Pick-up%20and%204runner%20Factory%20Service%20Manual.pdf?dl=0
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-te turbo diesel with custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My build thread http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97311.0[/ur

the_white_shadow [OP]

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this is a rod bearing. Based on this stamp i am ASSuming that the crank has been turned 0.30 and the bearings i need are the 0.30 over?

the_white_shadow [OP]

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After doing some research on these numbers, i have no clue what they are. The bearing brand is Taiho but when searching their catalog, none of these numbers come up for a 20r. Google is also no help. Is there a way to measure the bearing with a micrometer to determine what size it is?

Gnarly4X

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.... Is there a way to measure the bearing with a micrometer to determine what size it is?

Yes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkyVhE7Ww0M

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~15,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

the_white_shadow [OP]

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Well, I took the crank out and measured the journals and everything measured within specs of a crank that is all stock. I ordered up all new standard size Clevite rod/main/thrust bearings.

H8PVMNT

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Yeah that's a stock bearing in your hand there.
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the_white_shadow [OP]

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Came back with an update. New bearings, new timing chain, new completely rebuilt head (new cam, valves, springs, seals, eats, etc), new aisin oil pump, new oem toyota headgasket, new weber carb adjusted per instructions, etc. and i cant get this thing to fire. After 10 seconds of cranking it will attempt to start but wont.

Things i have tried:
Confirmed timing is correct. Pulled the valve cover and with engine at 0 on the timing mark, the rockers on No. 1 were loose and the distributor rotor pointed at No. 1 plug.
Pulled no. 1 to confirm that i have spark at the plug.
Changed out dizzy to another one. no change.
Sprayed some starting fluid, but no change.
Checked grounds (one from the passenger engine mount to frame/cab/block. ground strap from cab to side of the head.
fuses are good (at least under the dash)
Im getting fuel and spark.
Checked for any leaks at the intake. nothing visual from what i can tell.
valves were adjusted per the FSM prior to startup.

I did swap in a w-56 behind the 20r, but that shouldnt have anything to do with this.

Would not having a pressure regulator not cause the Weber to run? Im using a factory mechanical fuel pump on the head.

Im at a loss here. Anything that i am missing? Before the rebuild it would at least run.

Gnarly4X

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If you are sure you are getting good spark and fuel, I'd look at cam timing and ignition timing.  Cam timing (valve events) can affect compression.  Can you verify cam timing and do a compression check?

Webers are very finicky... proper fuel pressure is critical.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~15,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

the_white_shadow [OP]

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If you are sure you are getting good spark and fuel, I'd look at cam timing and ignition timing.  Cam timing (valve events) can affect compression.  Can you verify cam timing and do a compression check?

Webers are very finicky... proper fuel pressure is critical.

Gnarls.

Im for sure getting spark. Now if its a good spark, i dont know. I also pulled the valve cover and verified the timing again (cam timing mark was as 12 and the no. 1 rockers were both loose. Distributor rotor set to no. 1 plug). reset the distributor and still no change. I ordered a fuel regulator for the Weber, but i cant even get it to run on starting fluid so something else is wrong.

I tried a known to be working coil and swapped to a completely different igniter from a 22r and still nothing. I think its something stupid and electrical. There is a plug behind the battery on the passenger side that has two bigger white and black wires going to it, but isnt plugged in to anything. Cant figure out where that goes. Is there a relay/fusible link that controls something that i am missing? The fuses under the dash are all good and even swapped around to verify.


Gnarly4X

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If you have a good spark, some air, and some compression, starting fluid should fire.

Based upon your posts, it sounds like you are doing all the right things.  I assume you have fresh cap & rotor, spark plug wires, and plugs?  AND.. that you have verified the firing order! :thumbs:

How did you check the spark?  I'd pull all spark plugs, take one at a time and ground it, turn the engine over with the starter and look at what kind of spark I get.   :dunno:

Because I'm not an engine builder, I check myself, so while the number one spark plug is out, I'd verify that when the mark on the harmonic balance pulley is sitting at zero degrees, that number one piston is sitting at top dead center... carefully sticking a screw driver into the spark plug hole. :gap:  And, the cam sprocket dot is sitting at 11:30.

Before you tried to fire it for the first time, did you get good oil pressure after spinning the engine?  :biggthumpup:

I'm puzzled.  :disturbed:

Gnarls.  :inthedark:

« Last Edit: Jul 21, 2018, 03:22:19 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~15,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gillesdetrail

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Of you have fuel and spark, I can't think of anything else other than mecanical or ignition timing. Try rotating the ditributor to max advance and max retard see if it starts. When my distributor is at the right spot the rotor points a bit after the n. 1 terminal at TDC, as I set the ignition to about 10-12 deg. BTDC.

the_white_shadow [OP]

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I figured it out yesterday. The distributor drive gear was completely shot causing the distributor to fall out of time and turn freely. I swapped one from the 22re that I had and it fired right up. Thanks for all the help. Now I have to figure out a loud ticking from the top end. Itís a new head so Iím leaning towards a bad rocker.

Gnarly4X

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... i cant get this thing to fire. After 10 seconds of cranking it will attempt to start but wont.

Things i have tried: ..... Changed out dizzy to another one. no change.


Glad you figured it out.

Hmmm.... it seems odd that both distributors would have the same failure??

Gnarls.

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~15,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

the_white_shadow [OP]

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It wasnít the distributors. It was the gear on the end of the cam that was shot. It affected both distributors the same.

the_white_shadow [OP]

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And here is why it was making that awful tapping noise in the top end. Rocker arm assembly was fucked up.




the 86 4runner 22re rockers were a direct fit.


And just to show off, here is a pic of the truck on my new-to-me lift that i just installed in the shop. Not sure how i worked on trucks all these years lying on my back.
« Last Edit: Jul 23, 2018, 05:29:58 AM by the_white_shadow »

EASYRYDERDANGER

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Picture of worn drive gear?

the_white_shadow [OP]

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ill snap a pic this afternoon, but its pretty bad compared to the one in the pic above. The edges of some of the splines were chipped and they were severely worn.

the_white_shadow [OP]

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8D3TOY

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If that roll bar from the green truck is not going to be used I'll gladly pay to ship it my way, within reason of course. 92691 CA

EASYRYDERDANGER

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I didn't go back and read but is that a new cam in there? If its old those old rockers may have worn away at the cam lobes...

the_white_shadow [OP]

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I didn't go back and read but is that a new cam in there? If its old those old rockers may have worn away at the cam lobes...

Yeah, its a completely new head with new cam/springs/valves, etc.

 
 
 
 
 

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