Topic: Rexy Re-Do: SUPER SLEEPER 1ST GEN!

[EASYRYDERDANGER]

 

[mcharfauros]

Awesome work! Spent my whole lunchtime plus some getting up to speed on this thread.

[Toy(Yota)]

I really like the way those gas cans fit into the front of the bed that was a cool idea!

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Got my other driveline back all balanced and painted blue.  Now I can peg the speedo!  That 282 cam really gets it in the upper mid RPMs.

Either the rear main or the front of the trans is leaking, probably from the prolonged vibes of the scabbed driveshaft.  Everybody knows how much I love dropping my trans.  I think I'll put a fresh clutch I this time just for kicks.

Then hopefully after harvest I will have time to fab a good rear bumper. Have to dig up the tube bender.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Almost done with the rear bumper...

[fireitup]

Pics!!! Inspire me to make my front bumper.


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[H8PVMNT [OP]]

OK so the rear bumper...

Started with some half inch for stout brackets.  I have gotten tired of wrestling bumpers and loosing hardware so I tapped the bracket for half inch bolts.

Used some 2"x 2" square tube in 1/4" wall for the main part of the bumper.  Bent some side and corner rocker protection from 1 3/4" round.  I like these little bumperettes on the corners to keep the tail lights out of the dirt crevasses out here and they are handy to hitch horses too and drag steers with.

Jake was skinning a deer while I was doing this.  This doe got ran over with a grain truck about a minute ahead of us and was still twitching.  Waste not want not .

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

A fabricator buddy taught me you don't have to weld everything to the frame to make it stout, you just have to engineer it correctly.  Then if you swap trucks or make changes you can keep your work without a bunch of grinding and cutting.


The trick with bumpers is to mount to multiple planes whenever possible.  In this case I hit the side with the half inch brackets and welded on a 1/4" plate to bolt to the bottom of the boxed frame.

Bedside protection is from 1 1/4" round tube and a bit of 1/2" bar scrap from a piece of an old wagon.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Everybody knows this is a no-nonsense sleeper work truck, so why take the time to make a complex tube bumper?  I had considered just burning a piece of well casing to the brackets and calling it good, but I still get into some pretty tight spots in the coulees, and oddly enough, the rock crawler style bumper with side protection really plays well with livestock.  I lost a rocker panel on my old bed from a mule hitched to the bumper.  If I ever move to the coast I can cut off the little bumperette hitching post hoops that hang off too far for good trails. 

So this is a trail bumper with a work truck twist.

[Lewis Hein]

Nice job on the bumper. I may steal some ideas from you when I get around to that part of my endless truck fixing. I'll probably also try to engineer the bumper to absorb any future collisions without almost destroying the frame again. Though with zero testing planned, I may not get it anywhere close on the first try. Oh, and my frame is bent, so I'll be inventing new ways to attach it, too.

One thing that would be cool would be to have a little hammer-head crane that attaches to the bumper and sits on the ground to move heavy stuff into the truck bed but not take up too much space. And then that folds down nicely and stores on the bumper. We'll see who gets that made first

[Rockcrawlintoy]

I like it

[fireitup]

Looks really good.  You could start a fab shop and ship venison sausage with all your orders.

[300k]

Wow, YES! That looks awesome.

Now update the NOPVMNT thread... I'm jealous of your shop. It has concrete and doesn't smell like pickles like the old shop 

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Yeah it's really something working on a slab under cover.   

Just now starting to get a little free time.  Went from harvest to fixing a shop to seeding then hauling hay a couple hundred miles every day with an 18 wheeler.  Now I'm working ground until it snows and fixing everything.  This makes shorter days and better weekends.  I'll try to post a bit more.

[Gnarly4X]

Hey H,

Geezz... great to read from you again.  I hope your year has been a good, and the New Year brings you health, wealth, and happiness. 

Merry Christmas to you and your family!!   

Gnarls. 

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

The question was posed a little while ago if it was easier to drop a trans or pull and engine for access to clutch, seals etc. 

I have had a gusher rear main leak for a while because I did something stupid and use a rear main seal off an old engine in desperation when my new one was screwed up.  Looking at the trans it might actually be he input seal.  No matter I will replace all seals there.  I recently aquired a 1,600 lb Marlin clutch that I want to use, I also wanted to swap out my mar-mount modded enine mounts for some soft ones.  That is a good mod for sure but noisy.

So since I had enough reasons to pull the motor and I'm in a shop now I decided to use my engine hoist and see how it went compare to dropping a trans.

In the past I have dropped a trans in just under an hour.  Pulling the engine took me just under 2 hours.  I will say that pulling the engine was way easier physically than dropping the trans.  There was just more busy work draining the radiator, unhooking lines and pumping the engine hoist for a half an hour in the cold weather  .

So dropping trans is faster but more suffering, pulling engine is slower but easier.

[300k]

The question was posed a little while ago if it was easier to drop a trans or pull and engine for access to clutch, seals etc. 

Heh. I remember that.

I also wanted to swap out my mar-mount modded enine mounts for some soft ones.  That is a good mod for sure but noisy.

So did you still have them snug? Maybe it's not possible due to the locating dowel being drilled out but it seems like they would work best slightly loose, as to only be in use when the mount is stretching. I want to use them on the longbed just because the mounts are old, and quality engine mounts are crazy expensive.

So since I had enough reasons to pull the motor and I'm in a shop now I decided to use my engine hoist and see how it went compare to dropping a trans.

Yeah I suppose if you didn't have a some kind of flooring, pulling the engine with the hoist on dirt would be really annoying.

So dropping trans is faster but more suffering, pulling engine is slower but easier.

That's kinda how I had assumed it would be. Especially if you're not trying to drop your coolant or unhook your AC lines. Dropping a transmission took me way longer. Think it had something to do with the hidden bolt at the 12 o clock position

Awesome to see you're fixing that seal. I'll be interested how the 1600 lb clutch is when it's not transferring power to 40 inch tires or something crazy.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

I had thought about just loosening the bolts up a bit.  I think you may be right.  I can't seem to find the time to mess with this stuff very often however so it could be another 9 or 10 months before I have the time.  I get a reverb down the frame in the bed at idle.  It's annoying.


If I was just wheeling this thing I would leave it as is, but I spend a lot of time in it and I'm getting old .

I promise I'll loosen the bolts a bit and scratch my head for a while before I commit...

[300k]

Meh if you already pulled the engine, it's easier to change them now. I'd swap them out and send them to me

EDIT : sounds like Marlin torques his down. And you have the nylon washer so I'm not sure why they'd be more harsh than stock.

EDIT 2 : Now that you have the engine out, you could rebuild that W56 and put that in there

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Meh if you already pulled the engine, it's easier to change them now. I'd swap them out and send them to me

EDIT : sounds like Marlin torques his down. And you have the nylon washer so I'm not sure why they'd be more harsh than stock.

EDIT 2 : Now that you have the engine out, you could rebuild that W56 and put that in there

Found the best of my old stock mounts to try.  I think they were from that 2WD parts truck we stripped a while back.

I messed around with loosening them and it just seems like they would move around too much if they weren't snug. If you look at them in person the bolt allows the mount to squish but there is still a solid piece of metal and hard nylon transferring vibes from engine to frame.  Better than a solid mount for sure but still not isolated.

I do need to rebuild the W56 but I can't take leave this truck out of service more than a few days so that will have to wait.  I use it too much for work and we have to haul our house water with it every couple days.  I was supposed to slap it back together yesterday after work.  Right now I'm over budget on time because I have the wrong trans input seal and my clutch is the one for the older flywheel so I have to go get a flywheel from the shed and obtain a seal by the weekend. I have been running the later model flywheel with a bigger clutch but that disk is all messed up from the oil leak.


Rear main was leaking some but the trans input seal was totally petrified and falling apart.

I ended up putting one of those seal sleaves on the crank just for good measure.  Got the L52 input seal from Napa PN 11615.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

If you wat to try those modded mounts I can send them to you some time.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Found the best of my older flywheels to use with the 1,600 lb Marlin clutch.  Of the three one had an uneven friction surface, one was cracked and one was almost perfect and happened to have a .026 step grind which is a good trick for more clamping power and has been recommended by Marlin Crawler folks.

Two of the flywheels, the bad ones, were 22 lbs and the good one was 24 lbs. The newer style one I had been using was 24 lbs too so I was glad not to change since I've been so happy with the trucks performance.  The 1,600 lb pressure plate is 3 lbs lighter than the old one which is interesting.

So I dressed it up a bit with 400 grit sandpaper and a wood block and wiped it off with acetone...

Hopefully the 1,600 lb clutch will be enough clamping force to hold with mt massive 20r horsepower and nearly 31" tires  .

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

And the engine goes back in.  Just have to put in the radiator and hook up the doodads and we can go back to work!

[Lewis Hein]

Well, remember that the 20R has an enormous 2,000 antpower. The 22R has 2,200. Those extra 200 ants make all the difference.

[300k]

I could be wrong, but I don't think that's the chain you're supposed to use when you remove or install an engine. Those actually go ON the engine.

[emsvitil]

I could be wrong, but I don't think that's the chain you're supposed to use when you remove or install an engine. Those actually go ON the engine.

IN the engine...….


Athough THAT is a use for old timing chains.

[300k]

Athough THAT is a use for old timing chains.

He does it every time and I just now noticed

At least they're the double row. you try that with a single row and they might stretch

[emsvitil]

He does it every time and I just now noticed

At least they're the double row. you try that with a single row and they might stretch

Or worse.


Snap


 

[:)bestgen4runner]

And the engine goes back in.  Just have to put in the radiator and hook up the doodads and we can go back to work!

I've seen some back yard before, but that is some serious gagster . I know You got to have some chain around there someplace.

[Gnarly4X]

Two of the flywheels, the bad ones, were 22 lbs and the good one was 24 lbs. The newer style one I had been using was 24 lbs too so I was glad not to change since I've been so happy with the trucks performance.  The 1,600 lb pressure plate is 3 lbs lighter than the old one which is interesting.

My factory stock flywheel, after it was balanced, weighed 24.5 lbs.  I did not have a "step".  For a healthy clutch disc and pressure plate, if you can smoke a clutch disc due to insufficient clamping pressure from a Toyota factory pressure plate behind the stock engine it came mounted on, you may need some clutch pedal-gas pedal technique tutoring. 

Gnarls.