Topic: Annoying Orange, 20r Build for the 1980 Pickup

[H8PVMNT]

Yep. I’ve got a set of steel rockers. Coming your way.

Thanks!

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Dug through my pile of early timing covers and found the best one with no timing chain marks in it.  Cleaned it in the kitchen sink while the wife was busy working.  Water pump is good, Aisan TEQ on it, looks to have been replaced at one time but with that orange Toyota sealer on the gasket. Kaching! 

I also took off the stock OE Aisan oil pump and checked the clearances per the book, gears to body, gears to crescent, gear side clearance.  It is all well within good, so that's another freebie part to use.  A new Aisan one pretty well kills a hundred dollar bill so this is good news for a low/no budget engine build  .

[kneedownnate]

Time to hit the head!

Before anyone goes nuts on me I would like to say I did not do much, really very little and I also stayed quite conservative...   

And pre-emptively no I do not have a flow bench, experience with a flow bench, no access to a dyno, or any idea of what I am doing.   

 

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Dug through my possibles and found my two best timing chain tensioners.  The left one is aftermarket with about 30K on it.  The right one is Toyota with 80K-100K on it.  Interesting how the Toyota one has less than half the wear and isn't cracked off on the side despite having 3 times the miles on it. 

And yes, this particular build is that cheap... 

[THK Matt]

send it

[emsvitil]

If that was a single row timing chain, the wear would be halfway thru the block (even the Toyota one)...........

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

I didn't get much time over the weekend but I managed to get all the crud and old gasket off a timing cover.  Unfortunately the block ended up getting decked about .007" and the timing cover wasn't at the machine shop so I should probably knock it down a bit with a file or some sand paper.  I have done this before and it works fine.

Got my timing parts all sorted out.  I may end up swapping in the adjustable timing gear, but I will run the stock gear for the first couple thousand miles for safety and a good seat of the pants base line. 

For any newbs the zip tie is one way to keep your timing chain and gears aligned while waiting for the head to go on.  Then after installing the head you just rip off the zip tie with some needle nose pliers right before you put the timing gear on the end of the cam...

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Wham, bam thank you cam!   

282 cam went in with some assembly lube.  Spins nice and smooth in the cam journals with 2 fingers.  The choice to run the 282 in this engine came down to two things; first, 79coyotefrg convinced me it won't suck in this application and second, it was paid for and sitting here in the box.  I have to pinch pennies on this one so buying another cam was out of the question.

One of my other priorities was a complete engine ready to stab in without scavenging engine parts off the motor in the 4runner right now.  Using what I have available also makes this possible.

Oh yeah, another approximate 2 hours of time put in cleaning, searching and assembling, so...

Total labor time:  27.5 Hours

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Nearly forgot about the rusty, crusty pilot bearing stuck in the end of my crank.  So Napa dude got me a made in Japan Nachi pilot bearing for $6.

New moneys total:  $454.42

[Gnarly4X]

Nearly forgot about the rusty, crusty pilot bearing stuck in the end of my crank.  So Napa due got me a made in Japan Nachi pilot bearing for $6.

New moneys total:  $454.42

How did you get it out of the end of the crankshaft?

By the way... I am a HUGE fan of the "frugal rebuild"!!! 

That is one thing about the Toyota 20/22s that is quite amazing... you really can rebuild one on a very tight budget if you are resourceful, patient, use some common sense, and knowing where compromises can be made and where they should not be made.

The ultimate result of a frugal rebuild is how it performs, it's reliability, and ongoing maintenance requirements.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

If that was a single row timing chain, the wear would be halfway thru the block (even the Toyota one)...........

I assume you are talking about the tensioner.

Why would a double row chain wear less than a single row chain? 

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

Did you have a single row chain kit?

.007 off the block deck is not unusual.  My machine shop took only what they needed to clean and machine the RA and it was .006”.  If the head deck is spec height, you should not have any issues with cam timing being significantly out of stock as far as the center to center cam to crank.  Besides, according to the 282 profile, it’s already advanced, so a little tiny cam timing retard shouldn’t to be noticeable.

The top of the t-chain cover should have been machined with the block.  It will be important to match the block deck when it’s bolted in place.

I hope your frugal rebuild will turn out awesome! 

Gnarls. 

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

The old pilot bearing is still in there but I will use grease and a piece of something to "hydraulic" it out.  I have done that many times and it works great.

No I never had a single row kit, just some fresh left overs from the OSK kit I used for the other engine when I swapped the head. Added the fresh timing chain, found my best cranks gear and that gently used tensioner.  I have really lucked out on having enough decent parts hoarded to put this together cheaply.  That is of course not typical with every build but it shows it can be done.

[emsvitil]

I assume you are talking about the torsioner.

Why would a double row chain wear less than a single row chain? 

Gnarls.

Same pressure on chain,  twice the surface area

[Gnarly4X]

Same pressure on chain,  twice the surface area

Hi Ed,

Well…. I have a different view on the wear factor. 

The mass of dual chains at the point of contact with the tensioner is twice that of a single chain.

Using Newton’s 2nd Law..  Force (F) = M (mass) x Acceleration (a) ....

... the force acting upon the tensioner is approximately 2 times that of the single chain.

At 2 times the force, there will be 2 times the frictional force, and thus 2 times the wear factor.

However… the more probable measurement of wear on the tensioner is determined by the material used (rubber compound?) and the number of revolutions of the chain(s) that the tensioner sees over a specific number of months.

In other words, assuming two identical tensioners were used, if one tensioner sees 1 million (just picked a number) revolutions of the chain in 12 months and the other tensioner sees 100 million revolutions in 12 months, the higher the number of revolutions that the chain(s) contact the tensioner, logically the higher the degree of wear.

Since the tensioner functions with two adjusting pressures – internal tensioner spring and oil pressure via the engine, there are of course, other factors that affect the wear of the tensioner adjuster surface over time… i.e. ambient air temperature (climate), oil lubrication properties, driving style, and the quality of the material used in the construction of the tensioner.

That’s my 2 cents worth. 

Gnarls.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

You should of course have the timing cover machined with your block.  I wasn't planning on decking the block, so I didn't send it in, but then the machinist decked it about .006"-.007" anyway.  So what do you do with your too tall timing cover?

I start with a flat file, making even stokes from two directions until I have must a tiny bit, like .002"-.003" on the timing cover, then bring it the rest of the way with some 220 grit on a piece of wood until my sand paper just starts touching the edge of the block, indicating you are getting pretty even in height.

The real trick here is to keep even, steady pressure on the file and sanding block so you make it as flat as possible. I have done this before like twice and it always works fine.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

I got talked into using "the right stuff" on my last timing cover and oil pan gasket.  It has worked OK on the timing cover and kind of lousy on the oil pan.  This time I really want to see if I can accomplish the non-leaky Toyota engine (we can dream right?), so I am using paper gaskets with a thin layer of "Toyota Black Death" on the timing cover.

I go the surfaces really, really, really clean.  Really, really is probably clean enough.  I even run a sanding block over the timing cover surfaces to remove any burrs left from scraping old gaskets off.  A bit of carb cleaner or acetone helps a lot for final prep. 

Got into my almost free gasket set and found 2 sets of timing cover gaskets, one later model, about 1/4" too short, and one early set.  After I figured that out I laid down a small bead of sealer and flattened it out with my finger, then flipped it over and did the other side. I let it tack for about 10 minutes then stuck it on the block.  Not sure if this is the best method but that's what I did...

[300k]

You should of course have the timing cover machined with your block.  I wasn't planning on decking the block, so I didn't send it in, but then the machinist decked it about .006"-.007" anyway.  So what do you do with your too tall timing cover?

I will have to try this. same thing happened to me. since I bought the block from the machinist, he told me it was STD deck and was gonna be fine with a composite gasket. I dropped off my rods for inspection and bushing replacement, as well as to have some parts hot tanked. He called me back and said he wanted to deck it .007...well if I knew that I would have brought my shiny LCE timing cover! oh well

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

I had a nice OEM water pump I had cleaned up.  When I went to put it on it didn't match the gasket on top.  It fit on the bolts, but left a small gap at the top of the pump.  I forgot there was a difference between late and early water pumps.  I had a later model water pump.  I have no budget and I don't want to wait for a new pump so I dug in the shed, nothing! 

I went out to Jakes truck with the busted early 22r and it had a usable early pump, so more cleaning and then I got that on too. Thanks Jake! 

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

I have a nice enough harmonic balancer, low miles with no groove in it, that I don't have to use a sleeve or the popular thinner "Type-T" front main seal.  I hade the seal left over from my OSK timing chain (Japan) kit so I used that one.

Another tip for engine newbs:  put a bit of grease on the back of your seals before you drive it in.  This will suction the delicate little spring on the back of the seal when you beat on it and also kind of helps the seal hook up for the first few miles because it isn't just dry rubber on metal.

All that messing around with gaskets, timing covers and water pumps took me about 3 hours.

New total timage:  30.5 Hours

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

All of my rocker shafts are scored, grooved or otherwise out of tolerable spec, so I ordered up some DNJ rocker shafts (made in China) for $31.30.  They mic out right and will help get the oil clearance back in line for the rockers.  I think I may drill and chamfer the two extra oiling holes per rocker like the LCE shafts have.

They look pretty good but the threaded mounting holes have some jaggers and the inside of the shafts are a bit rusty and dirty.  I will be cleaning up the burrs and probably using some gun cleaning tools to get the rust out of the bores.  For $30 I'm not going to complain.


New total cabbage:  $485.72

[Gnarly4X]

All of my rocker shafts are scored, grooved or otherwise out of tolerable spec, so I ordered up some DNJ rocker shafts (made in China) for $31.30.  They mic out right and will help get the oil clearance back in line for the rockers.  I think I may drill and chamfer the two extra oiling holes per rocker like the LCE shafts have.

They look pretty good but the threaded mounting holes have some jaggers and the inside of the shafts are a bit rusty and dirty.  I will be cleaning up the burrs and probably using some gun cleaning tools to get the rust out of the bores.  For $30 I'm not going to complain.


New total cabbage:  $485.72

Excellent product evaluation!  Thanks for more facts... less Bravo Sierra.

I'm just curious.... what is the diameter of the oiling holes in the DNJ shafts compared to the LCE shafts?  Also, how many thousands are the chamfers in the LCE shafts?

Thanks,

Gnarls.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Excellent product evaluation!  Thanks for more facts... less Bravo Sierra.

I'm just curious.... what is the diameter of the oiling holes in the DNJ shafts compared to the LCE shafts?  Also, how many thousands are the chamfers in the LCE shafts?

Thanks,

Gnarls.

Not sure about the LCE shafts but the oiling holes in the DNJ shafts are about half the size as the factory shafts.  I will be drilling them out, adding the extra holes like the LCE shafts have and chamfering them with a dremel bit.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

I got a later model rocker set sent by our buddy "Mudder".  Thanks Mudder!

  I don't know where he got them but it must have been from something with no miles on it.  I have never actually seen rockers in this good of condition before.  The rocker pads actually still have the factory machine marks on the faces.  I won't even have to polish these things, they look new.  The bores mic out in spec.  The rocker shafts had enough wear to be just barely out of spec.

I will be using these aluminum rockers with the DNJ shafts to achieve the proper .0020 oil clearance, together with a set of early (slightly taller) rocker stands to match my early head.

And aluminum this time for the revs    since this engine seems to be going that direction.

[helipilot77]

I’ve had real good luck using permatex aviation form-a-gasket on paper gaskets.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

Took a try at drilling a hole out on the end of one of the DNJ rocker shafts where it wouldn't matter. I have determined after about 5 minutes that these are made of some pretty hard stuff.  I don't think I can drill extra oiling holes efficiently with normal tools.  I think I would just mess them up if I tried so I am going to run these as is.

The holes are the same size as stock, about 3/32".  I have several sets of rocker shafts.  Some have a bit more chamfer on the holes and some look just like these do.  I am going to say they are good enough unless you want to buck up and buy the $200 LCE shafts.

[Lewis Hein]

Don't know if you want to try this, but I've heard of gunsmiths spot annealing metal electrically with a wire and current. Never tried it or even seen the setup.

[emsvitil]

Rather than drill, how about a dremel size carbide bit?

[Gnarly4X]

Took a try at drilling a hole out on the end of one of the DNJ rocker shafts where it wouldn't matter. I have determined after about 5 minutes that these are made of some pretty hard stuff.  I don't think I can drill extra oiling holes efficiently with normal tools.  I think I would just mess them up if I tried so I am going to run these as is.

The holes are the same size as stock, about 3/32".  I have several sets of rocker shafts.  Some have a bit more chamfer on the holes and some look just like these do.  I am going to say they are good enough unless you want to buck up and buy the $200 LCE shafts.

The size, number, and positions of the oiling holes in the rocker shafts were designed by Toyota engineers.  In all the years I've been around the 22s, I've NEVER heard of or read about anyone saying that the shafts or the rockers have inadequate oil lubrication.

Perhaps LCE's shafts are designed with a better or more advanced level of engineering?  Toyota has designed and built this type of engine for 5 decades... so what does LCE know that the world's best automotive engineers do not?

What proof does LCE have that their design is superior to Toyota's, or that Toyota's stock design is inadequate for sufficient lubrication? LCE has a good reputation as a Toyota engine engineering company? Perhaps they do know and have proof that their design is better and provides some level of longer life or reduced wear for the rockers and shaft.

I'd like to see the proof.

Gnarls.

[H8PVMNT [OP]]

I was able to assemble the rockers today at lunch.  Not Barbie and the Rockers, the aluminum rockers Mudder sent, with the DNJ rocker shafts on the taller early style rocker stands.  I also used the springs from Mudder's set, because they are red.  I can only imagine adding something red to the valve train would have a multiplied horsepower adding effect  .

The DNJ rockers were great except for the inside of the tubes which looked like they had been stored in salt water before the machine process that finished the outside.  My solution was the muzzle loader ram rod and a .50 cal wire brush cleaner.  About 30 runs through and the inside was clean and no burrs.

After than I put all the good stuff together with some pre-lube on it for a nice tight set of rockers.  You may think I'm smart for remembering how they go back together but I cheated and used another set for a map

That killed most of an hour, so 31.5 hours total.