Author Topic: W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE  (Read 807 times)

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Gnarly4X

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W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE
« on: Oct 18, 2017, 06:36:46 AM »
As I mentioned before, one of the disadvantages of owning Toyota vehicles is I don’t get to work on them much to do actual repairs… my trucks have been very reliable.  Before now, I’ve never had an input shaft leak.  Leaks, squeaks, rattles, and vibrations drive me nuts!

I will be removing and installing a new input shaft seal on my W-56 tranny.  The R&R looks fairly straight forward and simple.

Questions….?

Are there any tricks I need to know or any precautions?

Any particular brand of seals I should NOT buy?

Any comments, suggestions, or shared experiences will be appreciated.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B ~2800 MI on break-in - DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE
« Reply #1 on: Oct 18, 2017, 11:50:24 AM »
UPDATE:  10-18-17 11:50 AM

Well…   removed the bellhousing, removed the throw-out bearing cover plate from the tranny.

Learned a few things….

With the tranny sitting flat on the tranny jack, when I removed the last bolt in the lower left had corner of the seal housing gear oil ran out!... I quickly put the bolt back in and tilted the tranny jack back about 30 degrees, which stopped the leaking gear oil from that bolt hole.

To separate the housing plate from the tranny I just gently tapped on the tube with a rubber hammer.

The gasket was very brittle and half of it stuck hard to the tranny and the plate.  It took about 20 minutes to scrap off the old gasket, probably the 31-year old factory original, with a Stanley knife from the plate and back of the tranny.

The easiest way to remove the old seal, very brittle, from the housing is with a flat blade screw driver under the lip of the seal where it mates with the housing… just twist back and forth and it lifts right out.  It's a 45mm outside diameter seal.

My local NAPA had no seal or gasket, Autozone and O’Reilly’s had a seal – no gasket. Had to order them from my local Toyota dealer – gasket $6.xx, seal - $14.xx.  Should be here in a couple days.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B ~2800 MI on break-in - DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE
« Reply #2 on: Oct 19, 2017, 07:04:00 PM »
UPDATE:  10-19-17

Picked up the gasket and seal at Toy dealer.

$13.40 including $1.00 sales tax.

I will install them Sunday and should be able to get tranny back in.  I'm going to remove the pressure plate and clutch disc since it's got some gear oil vapor on it.  I may have to replace the disc.

If I have time I will remove the rear diff pinion flange and check out the shaft on the flange for any wear.  My Toy dealer said there are 3 different part numbers for that seal for my 1986?  He wants my VIN #, he has to order the seal.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B ~2800 MI on break-in - DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE
« Reply #3 on: Oct 25, 2017, 03:11:23 AM »
UPDATE:  October 24, 2017

W-56 1986 transmission input shaft housing.

I thought I’d share this information for those that may be interested.

I realize that the subject of sealants and gasket RTVs appears to be a personal choice based on individual experience.

In the absence of my own personal experience, I tend to go with the “technical experts” and the people who use the products in their businesses.

Permatex Ultra Grey is used by Marlin...

https://www.marlincrawler.com/hardware-tools/chemicals/silicone-ultra-gray

For this application, Permatex Ultra Grey is recommended by the Technical Service Manager/Associate Innovations Manager at Permatex for the gasket and housing plate.  He recommended Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE for the bolt threads because the bolts/threads are in contact with the gear lube inside the case.

He also said to allow 24 hours before filling the transmission with gear oil to allow the sealants to cure properly.

My research also showed that the specification for Toyota part numbers for a number of sealants that Toyota recommends is covered in the Permatex Ultra Grey specification.

I believe that Toyota’s Orange FIPG sealant RTV is an excellent and logical choice.  However, the availability is limited and about 90% more expensive than the Permatex alternative.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1508894948&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=Permatex+Ultra+Greay

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80631-Thread-Sealant-PTFE/dp/B000BKEBT0

I highly recommend that any time you drop the transmission that you replace the input shaft seal and gasket if it has not been recently replaced.  For the cost of the seal and gasket $13.40, the Ultra Grey - $7.99, the Thread Sealant w/PTFE - $5.29 – for me it’s just not worth having to drop the tranny again to fix the leak from the seal, gasket, or bolts.  The leaking gear oil onto the bottom of the bell housing got blown around and onto the pressure plate, clutch disc, and flywheel.  I am replacing the clutch disc.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B ~2800 MI on break-in - DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE
« Reply #4 on: Oct 26, 2017, 04:37:21 AM »
UPDATE:  10-26-17 AM

CLUTCH DISC REPLACEMENT - 1986 XtraCab, 22RE, W-56 Transmission. Daily Driver.

I ordered a clutch disc from Autozone. Looked at it and compared it to the one out of my truck.  I didn’t like the rubber torsion plugs in place of the coil springs, and made in China.  It also had a completely different dimension on the center hub distance to the clutch material surface on the flywheel side.  I returned it.

I did several hours of research on clutch discs and decided the coil spring torsion is better.  I ordered a disc from RockAuto with coil spring torsions.  It is an MPact brand.

http://www.mpactclutch.com/

In the past, I’ve installed LUK clutch kits.

I looked at AISIN brand discs and they had rubber torsion plugs, or a combination of rubber and coil spring.

Any comments, opinions, or experiences with clutch discs will be appreciated.

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Oct 26, 2017, 04:46:29 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B ~2800 MI on break-in - DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

redneckcustoms13

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Re: W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE
« Reply #5 on: Oct 26, 2017, 05:03:14 AM »
I've ran oem Toyota and oreillys brand. The oem lasted for over 200k but I couldn't swing the funds for a new one at the dealer. I've been running the oreillys brand for over 10 years in numerous Toyota applications and have been pleased. The ones I've used have had the springs like the factory one.
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE
« Reply #6 on: Nov 13, 2017, 03:22:50 AM »
I've ran oem Toyota and oreillys brand. The oem lasted for over 200k but I couldn't swing the funds for a new one at the dealer. I've been running the oreillys brand for over 10 years in numerous Toyota applications and have been pleased. The ones I've used have had the springs like the factory one.

Good info!

Thank you.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B ~2800 MI on break-in - DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE
« Reply #7 on: Nov 13, 2017, 03:23:47 AM »
UPDATE:  11-13-17

The transmission, starter, and drive shafts are back in.  I still have to install the shifters and exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold, check gear oil level.

The re-install of the starter has always been real bear for me.  It’s very difficult to get a socket, extensions, and ratchet in the space and torque the nut and bolt.  Removing the oil filter helped with the space issue. I bought a new flange bolt for the top bolt which made is way easier to keep a 14mm deep socket on it.

Gnarls. :spin:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B ~2800 MI on break-in - DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

cporche

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Re: W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE
« Reply #8 on: Nov 15, 2017, 07:53:54 AM »
just curious are you going through the wheel well or under the car? on my 89 through the wheel well i got room for days to get the starter bolts, maybe give that a shot next time?

Gnarly4X [OP]

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Re: W-56 INPUT SHAFT SEAL REPLACE
« Reply #9 on: Nov 16, 2017, 03:05:01 AM »
just curious are you going through the wheel well or under the car? on my 89 through the wheel well i got room for days to get the starter bolts, maybe give that a shot next time?

Hey cporche,

Thank you for the input.

I have never tried going though the passenger side fender well.  As I remember my 22R 1985 standard cab was easier to get the starter in and out.  With this 1986 22RE with IFS, it seems to have less space to work in.  I did see the little panel on the fender well that can be removed for access from there.  It didn't look like the access was any better... but I have never tried it.  The truck is parked in my garage with the pass side up against a wall, so access from that side is very tight.   :gap:

From under the truck, I am able to get the bottom nut and top bolt on with my fingers.. but THAT is tough.  There is no space to get a wrench or socket on the top bolt or bottom nut from under the truck and be able to apply any torque.  :dunno:

It took me longer to get the starter in and torqued than it took me to install both drive shafts!!  :hammerhead:

I'm not an auto mechanic, just a semi-experienced DIYer, and like I've said many times about the quality and reliability... with my Toyotas, I'm on my 14th Toyota vehicle - 4th Toy truck, I just do NOT get much practice!!  :thumbs:

Gnarls.  :spin:



« Last Edit: Nov 16, 2017, 03:12:35 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B ~2800 MI on break-in - DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

 
 
 
 
 

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