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As I mentioned before, one of the disadvantages of owning Toyota vehicles is I don’t get to work on them much to do actual repairs… my trucks have been very reliable. Before now, I’ve never had a diff leak. Leaks, squeaks, rattles, and vibrations drive me nuts!I will be removing and installing a new rear pinion flange seal on my 1986 XtraCab. The R&R looks fairly straight forward and simple.Questions….?Are there any tricks I need to know or any precautions? .Any particular brand of seals I should NOT buy?How deep of a groove in the pinion sleeve, where the seal rides, is acceptable before replacing the pinion flange?Any comments, suggestions, or shared experiences will be appreciated.Gnarls.
You need to be careful not to over crush the crush sleeve when you tighten the new pinion nut. Do Your research, You are good at it. Once the drive shaft is removed turn the flange By hand to make sure everything feels smooth and not gritty. Please don't reuse the pinion nut. If it leaks again after you replace the seal You have bigger fish to fry. Pinion bearing?Just get a darn Toyota seal, You cheap Charlie.Put orange FIPG under the washer and nut or it will leak past the splines. Trust me! seen it more times than I can count. Do not use the Right stuff instead (Good God!)If You can feel the groove with your finger nail it's to deep.
Don't know if it's useful info or not (and it is totally anecdotal) but I have used the following technique a handful of times, with pinion nuts and output flanges on tcases:iirc the advice was from ZUK, to use the same nut, and when tightening it back up pay attention to where the nut was staked, and tighten until that lines up with the notch on the pinion. That way you are very close to the torque setting that was used during the setup.This has worked well for me. One diff I did this with has over 60k miles since we put a new seal in there. No problems or weird noises.I have used Toyota and Marlin ecoseals with no issues.
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