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Depending on how much the head and block get machined, I'll get a Toyota head gasket. Because I've heard Superior things about them. Nothing in this build is gonna be from AutoZone.
Yeah I'm planning to bolt the cover on and have them deck it with the timing cover on, that way it's perfectly flat! Well, hopefully. Maybe this means they will clean the timing cover too, I am paying for them to clean everything so that's included in the price too. I'm really excited to paint the block, I want it to look nice, plus with all the other shiny stuff. It'll be perfect. Depending on how much the head and block get machined, I'll get a Toyota head gasket. Because I've heard Superior things about them. Nothing in this build is gonna be from AutoZone. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
The head gasket discussion on forums is deep and wide – and always very controversial.The Toyota factory gasket has been a popular choice. The factory gasket has been designed for factory installed heads. The Toyota factory head gaskets designed and manufactured in 1980’s may or may not be as good and as advanced technologically as the current ones from Fel-Pro or Cometic, for example.In the rebuild scenario, there will be differences in the metal, flatness specs, Ra surfacing, and torque specs, and may be completely different from the Toyota factory installed heads.From the Toyota engine builders I’ve had conversations with about head gaskets, most failures is NOT due to the head gasket, it’s the lack of proper machining of the head and block and improper installation. It’s real easy to blame the head gasket, I mean who wants to admit they don’t know what they are doing and fubar’d their engine rebuild.There are some factors that should be considered when selecting specific head gasket. And since the 20/22s are notorious for head and head gasket failures, understanding the machining requirements, head gasket selection, and torque specs should be a high priority when rebuilding an engine.The recommended Ra surface roughness spec is generally different for different gaskets types and different for alloy heads to cast iron blocks. The use of coatings or sealer is also controversial, but “clean and dry” seems to be the recommended by the most head gasket manufacturers. Torque specs and thicknesses should also be considered based upon the finished machining and deck heights.Toyota engine builders like 22RE Performance, LCE, or engbldr will provide their recommendation – and why. To get other expert opinions, contacting the technical people at Fel-Pro or Cometic should give you other technical perspectives, insight, and recommendations.On engine block paint. I painted mine black, and wish I had painted it a light color.. light gray or light blue. The lighter color will allow me to see any leaks and see the attached parts way better, and also keeping it cleaner when degreasing and washing the engine and engine bay.Gnarls… just adding my pomp n’ stink.
....l so I will offer my experience on the 22R. especially the early block..... bored .060 over (I wouldnt advise that) ....
It took me a while to read it all so I will offer my experience on the 22R. especially the early block.2. the cam you had posted from LC engineering was the perfect cam. GET IT. get the rest of your parts from machine shop. Except the header, get it from LCE.
Hey Glen,Why do you like LCE's Pro Torquer camshaft for 22R, and what other camshafts have you compared it to?
Why do you like LCE's header, and what other headers have you compared it to? What diameter exhaust do you prefer with a header?
Are the over sized valves worth the extra $$$?
With a 22R with the LCE Pro Torquer cam and LCE header, what carb and intake combo do recommend?
What compression numbers, ratio do you see in your 22s? What octane fuel are you running?Just curious.Thanks,Gnarls.
We listen to Glen. Because of fast... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VX1AFhpOck
It took me a while to read it all so I will offer my experience on the 22R. especially the early block.1. early 22R rods are bullet proof and have stood up to superchargers. they will fit in a 350 chevy with minor machine work and around here are banned in a dirt track car because when those stock chevy rods are coming apart those 22 rods are still there. have them "done" by this I mean the ends over years and years will become slightly oval. Your machine shop will remove the studs, machine off some of the rod material and then re bore them to the correct size making them perfectly round again. I would also balance them as a set find the lightest of the four and make the other three the exact same weight.2. the cam you had posted from LC engineering was the perfect cam. GET IT. get the rest of your parts from machine shop. Except the header, get it from LCE.3. ask the machine shop you use if they can order the parts (trust me they can) and usually at a significant cost savings to you. all bearings and rings and pistons if they are needed and if its being bored you will.ALSO dont deck that block more than is needed to remove scratches. no more.4. Engnbldr is a great place to get parts for these engines. DO NOT get the cam there. they are much cheaper than LCE but you get what you pay for in this department (the cam department)5. the intake manifold will bolt right up. I see no problems at all but gasket match just to be sure.6. Head gasket. I will only put Multi Layer Steel or MLS, usually D&J Rock brand, head gaskets on 22R's I build, felpro never holds on the engines. my 79 with full body armor weighs 4500 lbs , bored .060 over (I wouldnt advise that) Stage 2 race cam, .460 lift LCE, header, 32/36 weber and a driver with a heavy foot http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VX1AFhpOck
... The guy at Downey said "you cant redesign a 30 year old motor by changing cams"
Block is at the shop now, should be picking it up in a week or two. Then, I can start ordering parts. The head will go next, a head job is only a couple hundred they said. They said $90 to cut the crank, and 30 to polish it. It looks good so maybe just a polish. We will have to see!! Still not set on using engbldr, from what I understand he uses rockauto and to me that won't fly. I'll use LCE for most if not everything, minus the head gasket and other gaskets. Those I will get from my work. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Good news! Taking the block tomorrow to get its work done. I was quoted $60 for the deck, and $90 for the bore. Looks like I will be in and out of there with just $200.The place is called "Crankshaft grinders" Here in salt lake city. Really excited....However, lifting the block up stairs out of my kitchen is not something I am looking forward to.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachments/toyota-truck-4runner/1216242d1392578462-best-22r-head-gasket-img_2653.jpg
Must've read it wrong then, just what my research turned up.Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Rock auto and D&JRock are different. I use D&J headgaskets because they are multi layer steel and you can blow a hg and it will reseal most of the time when it cools back down
Picked up an OEM Toyota Gasket kit for my 22R at work today, it was $140 (Employee discount) for everything. Some might question why this over a Fel-Pro, well, I figure that Toyota designed the motor, so they know best.This kit includes everything from the head gasket to the rear main seal. Not bad. Didn't even know Toyota Still makes these kits, maybe just new old stock.
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