Author Topic: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber  (Read 17199 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Gnarly4X

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 2901
  • Male Posts: 2,570
  • Member since Jun '16
  • Marlin and I slid "The Sluice" Martinez Canyon
    • Buy me some coffee
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #150 on: Aug 09, 2017, 06:22:01 PM »

And I can make more than $1.89 in 6.2 minutes..............
 :think:


Speeding pays.......
 :yupyup:



   :haha:  Yes, there are “houses” in Las Vegas where you could make more money in 6.2 minutes! LOL!  :lipsrsealed:

BUT… probably not so much while you are driving.  :ha_ha:

To put the difference in “speed” into another perspective….   :driving:

Generally, there are approximately 21 work days in a month.  :D

If you save $1.89 per day times 21 days that equals $39.69 per month.   :twocents:

What could you do with that extra money every month?  :dunno:

Gnarls…. Just stink’n & pomp’n.  :disturbed:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~10,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 2901
  • Male Posts: 2,570
  • Member since Jun '16
  • Marlin and I slid "The Sluice" Martinez Canyon
    • Buy me some coffee
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #151 on: Aug 10, 2017, 05:01:36 AM »
The air filter on the carb...

I’ve posted my opinion on oiled air filters several times before.

I’m not a fan of K&N or any oiled air filter.  I ran K&Ns on my 3 sand rails for about 8 years.  I can go into great detail about what I experienced and why I would not run them on any of my engines.  :blah:

Not only does an oiled air filter cause issues at the carb for AFR, air flow, and air flow sensors, but they do not adequately protect the engine as an air “filter” in the most commonly used filtering applications.

Using compressed air to “clean” an air filter is not a good practice. :shake:

Gnarls… that’s just my opinion – it may be worthless.  :gap:


1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~10,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

H8PVMNT [OP]

  • Offline Silver Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 473
  • Male Posts: 3,413
  • Member since May '07
  • I'LL NEVER MAKE IT...
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #152 on: Aug 10, 2017, 07:28:51 AM »
Yeah, I know.  I blew it out because it will take me a few days to get a fresh one.  It appears to have faired pretty well despite the abuse but a new element is only $13.  I was considering looking to see if my local guy could source a paper element the same size as the redline one for ease of service.
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

SlayTank

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 234
  • Posts: 75
  • Member since Apr '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #153 on: Aug 15, 2017, 08:29:24 PM »

OH wow! great tuning! My head hurts from trying to soak all the information in. I have the same weber book, pulled it off the shelf in my dads garage. It looks like it was printed in the 80's. I just read it through a couple times and took notes. I will be doing the same tuning on my truck when I get a chance. I bought my truck back in 2012. It had a 32/36 on it at the time as well as a header and a cam. Through out the years I swapped the header on it (torque rod bracket made a bad ding in it) put a Offy single plane intake on it and modified a "Ram Air Intake" to it. Of corse, having less wisdom, I never changed the jets. I thought "It runs ok..." and never made time to dig into it.... Then I burned a valve running freeway speed. Cruising along and felt a cylinder drop out. pulled over and the spark plug was no more... wish I had a picture of it, it was bad. My ignorance had caught up with me. I believe this is due to extreme LEAN mix at cruise.

It had
On Truck
Main- Prim-140 Sec- 150
Idle- 60
Sec Idle- 50
Pump- 50
AC- Prim- 170 Sec- 180

I ordered some more jets so in total ill have

All Jets Had including ordered

Main- 140,145,150,155
Primary Idle- 60, 65
Secondary Idle- 50, 55, 60
Pump- 50
Air Correction- 160, 170, 180

Im thinking after reading the book I really need to go up in main and down In AC. But before i mess around with the carb I think I need a new distributor as the vac advance no longer works at all. I was eyeing the DUI distributor from LCE to replace and upgrade the distributor.

Like I said I took some notes and dumbed it down for myself

1. Main jet are primarily responsible of fuel flow in middle range RPM
2. As RPM goes up A/C and E-tubes become more significant
3. At max throttle A/C has most effect on fuel flow

Would you guys agree?

OH! also the throttle bushings on mine seemed like the outer diameter was much too small to contact the Inner diameter if the carb bosses. I had ordered the bearings for it a few years back I just popped them in and they fit very well.

Here is my "Ram Air" Im sure Gnarls won't enjoy it but its the only air cleaner canister I found that I thought I could make work.

SlayTank

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 234
  • Posts: 75
  • Member since Apr '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #154 on: Aug 15, 2017, 08:36:43 PM »
Its the K&N Apollo filter/canister. I got the Carb hat from Redline.

SlayTank

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 234
  • Posts: 75
  • Member since Apr '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #155 on: Aug 15, 2017, 08:40:39 PM »
Also I forgot another note

4. The idle jet not only affects idle but the progressive circuit as well.

Gnarly4X

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 2901
  • Male Posts: 2,570
  • Member since Jun '16
  • Marlin and I slid "The Sluice" Martinez Canyon
    • Buy me some coffee
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #156 on: Aug 16, 2017, 05:21:58 AM »
....  Here is my "Ram Air" Im sure Gnarls won't enjoy it but its the only air cleaner canister I found that I thought I could make work.


Hey SlayTank,

Nope... no more K&N or oily air filters for me.

Well, it looks interesting.  From the photo it doesn't look like it would be "ramming" any air.  The original Pontiac RAM AIR was designed to increase air pressure into the carb and supposedly gain some performance.  But that type of ram air does not really produce any significant increase in power.

If your modified ram air is sucking in cooler air than the engine compartment, you might be gaining a little increase in power.

Did you notice any seat-of-the-pants difference?

Although the Toyota stock air intake system probably allows WAY more CFM than a carb can use on a stock engine.... BUT after installing the DT header and free-flow larger exhaust I later added my Double Gnarly Air Filter, and I was surprised at the difference.  I just stacked 2 air filters in the stock canister.

Gnarls.

« Last Edit: Aug 16, 2017, 05:27:55 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~10,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

SlayTank

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 234
  • Posts: 75
  • Member since Apr '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #157 on: Aug 16, 2017, 06:54:57 AM »
I really wanted to get away from the cheesy air cleaner assembly that comes on the weber and increase any power I could. Especially at freeway speeds, also living in Tucson where 115 degrees days are common in the peak of summer I needed cooler air. There were a few summer days in city stop light driving as I would be rolling up to stop light in neutral it would choke out, sputter and die on me due to having nothing but super heated thin air to breath. I did notice better power at cruise speeds around 65mph where the air starts getting a more forced action but i will say it was not a huge amount of power by any means. However if I would have taken the time to rejet I believe more power would be there.

Here is a better picture of the scoop

Gnarly4X

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 2901
  • Male Posts: 2,570
  • Member since Jun '16
  • Marlin and I slid "The Sluice" Martinez Canyon
    • Buy me some coffee
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #158 on: Aug 16, 2017, 07:40:01 AM »
... also living in Tucson where 115 degrees days are common in the peak of summer I needed cooler air. There were a few summer days in city stop light driving as I would be rolling up to stop light in neutral it would choke out, sputter and die on me due to having nothing but super heated thin air to breath. .


While I do appreciate your innovative ingenuity.... I doubt your "choke out, sputter and die" problem is due to the summer temps in Tucson.  I've lived here AZ for 26 years in the Phoenix Metro areas and never had a problem with any of my Toy trucks due to excessive summer air temps.

Looking at the air flow, velocity, pressure, and aerodynamics, without knowing what the air flow will be at your scoop, there actually may be a low pressure area at the opening? 

I doubt that Toyota, in the early 1980's spent much research in a wind tunnel to study the areodynamics of the pickup.  The stock front bumper valance does supposedly help aerodynamically reduce drag.  The popular misconception for some pickup owners to remove or drop the tailgate to reduce drag over the empty bed has been debunked by engineering testing - it's better to leave it up.

That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.

Gnarls.

1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~10,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Gnarly4X

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 2901
  • Male Posts: 2,570
  • Member since Jun '16
  • Marlin and I slid "The Sluice" Martinez Canyon
    • Buy me some coffee
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #159 on: Aug 16, 2017, 07:53:36 AM »
Especially at freeway speeds, also living in Tucson where 115 degrees days are common in the peak of summer I needed cooler air.

Without engine mods, there are two basic ways to use the engine peak torque better at freeway speeds if the current peak torque is not where you need it.  One, re-gear to move your peak torque RPM in the MPH range you drive mostly.  And, or two, re-cam to move the peak torque numbers to the RPM range you drive mostly at freeway speeds.  Either way it's not inexpensive, but should work very effectively.

Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~10,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

SlayTank

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 234
  • Posts: 75
  • Member since Apr '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #160 on: Aug 16, 2017, 10:56:11 AM »
While I do appreciate your innovative ingenuity.... I doubt your "choke out, sputter and die" problem is due to the summer temps in Tucson.  I've lived here AZ for 26 years in the Phoenix Metro areas and never had a problem with any of my Toy trucks due to excessive summer air temps.

You are correct Gnarly it wasn't entirely due to the heat but it was about half the cause. It would run fine in the morning but in the afternoon the symptoms would appear. The other half of the cause was the intake location. I ditched the air cleaner that came with the weber because the rubber on the top and bottom of the filter would harden and shrink due to the gasoline/ethanol fumes. I was tired of replacing them and wanted a permeant fix as well as moving to a sealed intake system so I could move toward making a snorkel(Recently I have been having the thought process maybe I don't want to drive into water deeper then my running board if any water at all) I fitted the sealed carb hat and the only way I could toss on the air cleaner assembly is if I pointed it to the back corner of the engine bay(it was a project daily driver and didnt have time to come up with a better solution at the time) The intake location furthered hindered air and when combined with heat the symptoms would appear.

Once I had a sacred piece of time :bowdown: I hole sawed a 4" hole in the fender, welded a mounting bracket for the air cleaner assembly and welded up 4" exhaust tube to make the pipe to the exterior of the engine bay.

I needed to get the air from outside the engine bay and wanted to move toward a snorkel.

SlayTank

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 234
  • Posts: 75
  • Member since Apr '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #161 on: Aug 16, 2017, 11:10:05 AM »
Looking at the air flow, velocity, pressure, and aerodynamics, without knowing what the air flow will be at your scoop, there actually may be a low pressure area at the opening? 


You are correct on that as well.  :yesnod: I am no aerodynamics engineer  :dunno: but I had a 4" sucking hole in my fender and thought might as well toss a scoop on there till I get around to making a snorkel. It seemed like a gained a wie bit more power at higher speeds but maybe it was a placebo effect and i didn't gain anything  :dunno:

Ill say I'm 80% sure I gained some kind of power over the "stock" weber air cleaner.

One, re-gear to move your peak torque RPM in the MPH range you drive mostly... to move the peak torque numbers to the RPM range you drive mostly at freeway speeds.  Either way it's not inexpensive, but should work very effectively.

I did blow out my stock 4.10 gears shortly after i did the scoop (390k miles I guess those tend to go with unknown PO maintenance)

Found not one but two stock toyota 4.88s out of 4 runners in 1 week :clap: so got that gear jazz covered for now.

Gillesdetrail

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 343
  • Posts: 121
  • Member since Nov '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #162 on: Aug 16, 2017, 02:45:43 PM »
1. Main jet are primarily responsible of fuel flow in middle range RPM
2. As RPM goes up A/C and E-tubes become more significant
3. At max throttle A/C has most effect on fuel flow

Would you guys agree?

A/c affect the mixture only at higher rpm WOT. On my weber 38 22r I notice the changes only above 4k. Main jets will affect the whole powerband mixture and highway cruising mixture as well.

H8PVMNT [OP]

  • Offline Silver Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 473
  • Male Posts: 3,413
  • Member since May '07
  • I'LL NEVER MAKE IT...
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #163 on: Sep 18, 2017, 12:59:02 PM »
I'll slap this on here too since I will be figuring it out at some point.  Picked up a used Weber 38 I intend to put on a hot engine for a 2WD pickup I got for free a few weeks ago.  Should be interesting. 

This one has an electric choke, which I may very well swap to a manual. 

First thing I notice compared to my 32/36 is that this thing has only one idle jet.  First I though the jet was missing and then I realized the secondary idle jet is for the transition into the secondary, and this carb has no trasition  :gap:. It's all in all at once!  Bwaaaaah!

Edit on 10/3, I was playing with this carb to record what jets it has and noticed I was a dumb butt, it does have primary and secondary idle jets.  Still, though, BwaaaaaaH!!

 
« Last Edit: Oct 03, 2017, 10:28:16 AM by H8PVMNT »
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

SlayTank

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 234
  • Posts: 75
  • Member since Apr '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #164 on: Sep 22, 2017, 10:58:24 AM »
H8PVMNT, how is your fuel pressure regulator working out? I got one of those cheap Holley ones and the same mr gasket gage you have. I seems like it gives you different pressure no matter what you do. I was having trouble starting after a 30 min drive then 10 min shut off time to run into the store. Id come back out and it would blow lots of black smoke and not start. I was assuming the bowl was over flowing and flooding. I turned down the psi this morning but couldn't get a good consistent number. id back of the screw to turn down psi and nothing would happen then rev the engine it would drop to 2psi then rise back to 5 psi... seems like its not doing a good job of regulating. also I don't want to set it to low a pressure so at freeway rpms it goes lean. really don't want to do another valve job.

But today after a couple stops it seemed like it was starting a lot better. I also understand that you should adjust liquid filled gauges when everything is cold.

Anyway Im thinking I should get the redline if you are liking it. Any other tips for adjusting the fuel pressure?

H8PVMNT [OP]

  • Offline Silver Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 473
  • Male Posts: 3,413
  • Member since May '07
  • I'LL NEVER MAKE IT...
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #165 on: Sep 22, 2017, 11:28:12 AM »
The redline fuel pressure regulator has been great.  The Mr. Gasket guage went to heck after about a month.  I ended up with this one and it is working fine...  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J46PKPA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

Gillesdetrail

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 343
  • Posts: 121
  • Member since Nov '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #166 on: Sep 22, 2017, 02:24:20 PM »
My fuel pressure was fluctuating for a long time, I found out I had a pin hole in the pickup tube coming out of the top of the fuel tank. Since I fixed that it has been rock solid, above 2 psi at least. It is a holley FPR but I run a generic 4-7psi electric fuel pump.

H8PVMNT [OP]

  • Offline Silver Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 473
  • Male Posts: 3,413
  • Member since May '07
  • I'LL NEVER MAKE IT...
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #167 on: Oct 03, 2017, 10:32:36 AM »
So the temps dropped and we had our first snow today after a whole 4 days of what looks like fall.  This morning I started at about 30 degrees F. Not cold by my standards but cold enough to get into the "winter tune".  The truck fired right up with the choke on, 2 pumps of the throttle and one touch of the key.  Pretty good.
At this temp I seem to be a whole notch leaner on the idle and primary circuits though, like enough to want to re-jet.  We will see what happens.
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

H8PVMNT [OP]

  • Offline Silver Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 473
  • Male Posts: 3,413
  • Member since May '07
  • I'LL NEVER MAKE IT...
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #168 on: Oct 03, 2017, 01:11:35 PM »
Check this out guys...  My lean idle ended up being from the header down pipe ball flange being loose. Apparently the exhaust leak just messes up the AF reading at idle.  The primary main however, still felt and read lean.  I swapped the 140 main jet for a 150 and it is right in the 14s on the primary so I think it was a good choice.  Also advanced my timing a couple degrees to get the idle vac back to 17.  Idle vac has been dropping with the temperatures which is consistent with my seat of the pants winter tuning over the years.

The conclusion is that lower ambient temps want slightly fatter jetting and slightly advanced base timing.
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

H8PVMNT [OP]

  • Offline Silver Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 473
  • Male Posts: 3,413
  • Member since May '07
  • I'LL NEVER MAKE IT...
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #169 on: Oct 04, 2017, 09:38:58 AM »
14 degrees this morning and she fired right up with no drama.  Reached in and pumped the throttle twice with my hand, pulled choke and one touch of the key, brvooom, budah-budah-budah...

Still that's not really cold but I am thinking it is going to work fine for winter.
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

85Buckett

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 187
  • Male Posts: 56
  • Member since Jun '16
  • Nothing Happens Until Something Moves
    • Buy me a beer
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #170 on: Oct 05, 2017, 09:00:53 AM »

Here is a better picture of the scoop

YES That is freaking cool !  It reminds me of a project car hood scoop my buddies did back in the day on a 80s Tercel sedan with a dryer vent.
Pirate 4x4 S/N  Tripower389

83 yoter

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 89
  • Male Posts: 118
  • Member since Feb '15
  • improve a little more each day!
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #171 on: Apr 11, 2018, 10:10:59 PM »
How did the Weber fair through the winter? Also wondering have you experienced any negative side effects from the "hill climb mod" you did? I've heard that you can experience stalling and hiccups going downhill after the mod.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


300k

  • Online Crawler Guru
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 3485
  • Male Posts: 487
  • Member since Jun '15
  • Working on my truck with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #172 on: Apr 11, 2018, 10:46:38 PM »
His hybrid engine experienced VERY minor mechanical difficulties, as expressed with this quote :

My hybrid experiment in the 4runner started blowing exhaust and large quantities of oil (like all the oil) out the PCV breather this weekend.  This indicated to me that it may not be healthy any more  :disturbed:.

Keep it TOYOTA!

In the past years, I used to get a lot of calls from Jeep owners wanting to go slow like the Toy trucks.

SlayTank

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 234
  • Posts: 75
  • Member since Apr '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #173 on: Apr 12, 2018, 03:58:20 AM »
Update from the other side of the states! What was happening to me was it would fire up great in the morning but after a couple stop and shut downs, Id come back out of the store and Id have to crank it forever all while it was puking black smoke. (side note) I hadn't driven it for awhile as I am now 42 miles from work and have a 1987 CRX HF that gets 49.5 mpg (trying to break the 50MPG!) I drove the truck out into the desert wastelands to go shooting about a month ago and tossed the rifles on to the hood. As i was loading and switching rifles throughout the afternoon I started hearing bubbles and boiling... the sound was coming right out of my little dryer vent scoop. This was the smoking gun I had suspected. (really i should have known better) After driving and the thermostat housing heating up and my fuel line (pump output to reg) touching the housing  it was boiling the fuel, pressurizing the regulator and flooding the carb. I tried to space off the fuel line with a loop clamp using the thermostat hosing bolt to no success, same issue. I had also previously gotten a new redline regulator with the marshall gauge that H8PVMNT recommended (works great by the way, but not great enough to overcome the angry boiling gasoline). I looked at possible solutions and decided that a hardline run back over the fuel pump should work well. I measured the output barb diameter and it was a perfect 1/4' hardline. I decided to go with hardline A/N fitting tube adapters to regulator and braided line from reg to carb.

I went with stainless steel hardline because it doesn't like to transfer heat therefore keeping the gasoline colder although aluminum may have been cheaper, easier to work with and done just as well. So I dove into the A/N fitting world and boy it is immense. Ill post up my parts list if anyone cares. Turns out that the only male AND female a/n 1/4 hardline adapters come from aeroflow in Australia and are of the -4an size. The conventional way to hardline adapt is a -6an male with a tube nut but in that case you need to flare the tube (37-1/2 degrees i think) and I did not have a flare tool. I got most of my parts from Jegs and then some from areoflow so shipping was around 2 weeks coming from the former prison island (Australia).

The tube adapters use compression fittings (which i had never worked with). Of other note the 3/4 NPT 90 degree adapters to -6an I had bought were of the swivel type because I was afraid that when tightened down they would be facing the wrong way(maybe this wasn't necessary and could have been done with conventional 90 degree adapters) So got all the parts in and started bending tube with my 180degree tube bender. i mapped out the route with some 1/8inch wire I had laying around but that did not work out well as the radius on 1/4 tube was a lot different then my guess with the wire. I came away with a new respect for hard tube routing/bending. It came out ok but not as nice as I would have liked. If I did it again I would have done the wire routing ALONG with cutting a small piece of tube, bending to 90degrees and use that as a template for bend radius. Also of note I bent and cut the tube without the -4a/n adapters from aeroflow because I didnt want to wait any longer to start. Turns out that the hardline adapters are a bit longer then I had expected so I had to rework the tube a little which stainless is not to fond of. I cut the hardline from the pump a little to short as well(had to cut the little bulge off). I used my tube cutter from my brake line kit and that spaced me about a 1/4" back from the bulge, which I thought would be fine but like I said the adapters are longer then I thought so the end of the adapter is pretty close to the bend in the pump output. If I did it again I would have used a hacksaw or angle grinder to cut it RIGHT next to the bulge to lengthen it out a bit. Anyway I'm done talking ask if you got any questions...

P.S. I havent tested yet because... you start doing one thing and that leads to another, now I have the bumper off. If you give a mouse a cookie I guess. I did start it and checked for leaks. If it continues to boil I will slide some thermal heat shielding tube stuff over it from Jegs.

Parts
Reg http://www.jameng.com/products/Redline-Fuel-pressure-regulator.html
Hose Fittings http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/AT800106/10002/-1
Hose http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/303006/10002/-1
Reg to hose adapter http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/AT922166/10002/-1
Hardline http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/641636/10002/-1
Hardline to reg adapter http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/AT165064/10002/-1
Other piece hardline to reg adapter http://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/AT923166/10002/-1
A/N to carb (Needed cut/file down length of threads to seal on carb) https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/fittings/adapters/metric-to-male-flare-adapters/af729-06blk
1/4" hardline female adapter https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/hardline/tube-adapters/af109-04blk
1/4" hardline male adapter https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/hardline/tube-adapters/af108-04blk

Gnarly4X

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 2901
  • Male Posts: 2,570
  • Member since Jun '16
  • Marlin and I slid "The Sluice" Martinez Canyon
    • Buy me some coffee
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #174 on: Apr 12, 2018, 05:16:06 AM »
.... I looked at possible solutions and decided that a hardline run back over the fuel pump should work well.

Hey SlayTank,

Interesting information and very well documented.

I'm not familiar with those type of hose or hardline connectors.

I assume that fuel line insulation was not a viable option?  ... Like this:  https://www.speedwaymotors.com/DEi-010403-Heat-Sheath-Aluminized-Line-Sleeving-3-4-Diameter-x-3-Ft-,71027.html?sku=35610403&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-oX9ldm02gIVSrjACh2n4g-pEAQYAyABEgIbqfD_BwE

or this:  https://www.alligatorperformance.com/silicone-coated-fire-heat-shield-sleeve-for-fuel-lines-brake-lines-wire-looms?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-oX9ldm02gIVSrjACh2n4g-pEAQYBCABEgJ3X_D_BwE


It would have been nice to see the photos on Imgur to see more detail.

I hope you have solved the over-heating issue.

Gnarls.


1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~10,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

H8PVMNT [OP]

  • Offline Silver Turtle Award
  • *
  • Turtle Points: 473
  • Male Posts: 3,413
  • Member since May '07
  • I'LL NEVER MAKE IT...
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #175 on: Apr 12, 2018, 06:19:10 AM »
How did the Weber fair through the winter? Also wondering have you experienced any negative side effects from the "hill climb mod" you did? I've heard that you can experience stalling and hiccups going downhill after the mod.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk



Well I took the 4runner out of service in November.  It did get pretty darned cold (single digits) during that time and I had no issues with the cold start at all.  It was I fact as good or better than the stock carb at those temps.  I did not get to try the Weber in the super sub-zero we had all winter though.  As far as the hill climb mod; I ran it at all angles up, down, sideways with no issues of any kind. Not sure why it would produce a hiccup since it doesn't effect the bowl and nothing can spill into the carb but maybe I am missing something. I think as long as you vent the bowl to a charcoal canister instead of the carb you would be fine.  If you dump the new vent back into the carb then it would certainly flood down hill.

I am going to be using this carb on my 1980 pickup and should have it going soon.  I'll try to find a stupid steep down hill and see if I can make it burp.
« Last Edit: Apr 12, 2018, 07:58:21 AM by H8PVMNT »
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
– Steve McQueen

"Except for maybe Seattle."  -H8PVMNT

"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

83 yoter

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 89
  • Male Posts: 118
  • Member since Feb '15
  • improve a little more each day!
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #176 on: Apr 12, 2018, 10:37:16 AM »
Well I took the 4runner out of service in November.  It did get pretty darned cold (single digits) during that time and I had no issues with the cold start at all.  It was I fact as good or better than the stock carb at those temps.  I did not get to try the Weber in the super sub-zero we had all winter though.  As far as the hill climb mod; I ran it at all angles up, down, sideways with no issues of any kind. Not sure why it would produce a hiccup since it doesn't effect the bowl and nothing can spill into the carb but maybe I am missing something. I think as long as you vent the bowl to a charcoal canister instead of the carb you would be fine.  If you dump the new vent back into the carb then it would certainly flood down hill.

I am going to be using this carb on my 1980 pickup and should have it going soon.  I'll try to find a stupid steep down hill and see if I can make it burp.

I'm trying to rustle up the article, but I had at one point come across a case where a fella encountered stalling going downhill after the mod. This was the only case I found though, and it could have been caused by the work the owner did or was a seperate issue altogether. It's very likely the owner did in fact route the vent back to the carb as you suggested. I'll keep trying to locate that article.
            I can't really see any cons that outweigh the benefits of the modification. I picked up an offenhauser manifold and spiral adapter from LC, so when i'm putting those in I may do the hill mod to my 32/36. After I double check for any vac leaks and do a valve adjustment(really needs it) we'll see how she does. I'm going to order up a jet kit and try out a few different setups after I get an initial baseline. I have a pretty simple setup on my 22r, the block and head are still stock and will probably stay that way. I've got a header on right now but it's not exactly an efficient design though, I don't even remember the brand. So when I get a little more cash saved up i'm going to buy an LC Header and muffler. After which i'll most likely have to readjust, or just go back to factory settings and start from there. I'll make sure to document all my results.

SlayTank

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 234
  • Posts: 75
  • Member since Apr '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #177 on: Apr 12, 2018, 11:47:20 AM »
Gnarls,


I assume that fuel line insulation was not a viable option?  ... Like this:  https://www.speedwaymotors.com/DEi-010403-Heat-Sheath-Aluminized-Line-Sleeving-3-4-Diameter-x-3-Ft-,71027.html?sku=35610403&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-oX9ldm02gIVSrjACh2n4g-pEAQYAyABEgIbqfD_BwE

or this:  https://www.alligatorperformance.com/silicone-coated-fire-heat-shield-sleeve-for-fuel-lines-brake-lines-wire-looms?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-oX9ldm02gIVSrjACh2n4g-pEAQYBCABEgJ3X_D_BwE


It would have been nice to see the photos on Imgur to see more detail

Honestly, that probably would have worked fine haha. here is a list of my poorly supported reasons, haha. I really wanted to fix it for good and be done with it. I think it looks a bit nicer without hoses running here and there. I like pressurized fuel lines to be hardline as well incase of hose failure(which I know is a long shot, I'm scared from my dads 66gmc catching on fire one time).

Im not sure how to use Imgur but I'm sure I could learn/google it

SlayTank

  • Offline Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 234
  • Posts: 75
  • Member since Apr '15
  • Crawling with Marlin
Re: H8PVMNT Wrestles a Weber
« Reply #178 on: Apr 12, 2018, 03:47:41 PM »
Trying to get the pictures bigger with imgur. Thanks to 300K for the help. Now lets see if this works...











Ha! thanks 300K

 
 
 
 
 

Related Topics

111 Replies
19348 Views
Last post Feb 27, 2018, 10:30:22 AM
by AZ Rockit
14 Replies
1630 Views
Last post Apr 09, 2018, 08:03:01 AM
by redneckcustoms13
7 Replies
1859 Views
Last post Dec 12, 2016, 08:25:28 AM
by H8PVMNT
41 Replies
6790 Views
Last post Feb 27, 2018, 11:29:21 AM
by AZ Rockit
17 Replies
725 Views
Last post Oct 11, 2018, 08:55:51 AM
by Cheesemaker