Topic: Toyodaaddict's 1980 "The Blue Truck"

[84 yota dude]

Good deal. Makes total sense, thanks!
On the winch I think you have a good idea, just run it as is

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I got the winch all put back together. I replaced the locking ring, cam ring, and fresh Aeroshell 64 grease. I used the original planetary housing and returned the new one. After looking at how it all works I don't believe the minor damage to the splines to be of any concern, the gears never even contact the damaged erea. On the bench everything is working smooth, including free spool 

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I also welded up a battery mount. Good bye ratchet straps!
Now I need to paint the bumper install the winch/grill and look into getting a new windshield. moving at my turtles pace I should be ready for the trail by June 

 

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

It's been over a year since I updated this thread and I'm sure someone out there is dying to know if I ever got the winch back on   



I've been having a real demoralizing time trying to work the bugs out of my engine. That and with photobucket taking a dump I haven't been to motivated to keep the thread updated.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Made a mount for my CO2

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I started getting some noise from the rear end. I Found this when I drained the oil. 
I guess I need to keep a closer eye on my fluids after I've been in the water.



The bearings in the third member where toast. So I picked up another spooled 5.29 third from Marlin. I'm trying a LubeLocker gasket this time. My first impression is that its going to work great. I had some oil seepage around the diff using ultragrey and I suspect that's how the water got in.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I changed the wheel bearings and brakes while I was at it.
 Next time I need to come up with a way to press the new bearings on. I just pounded them on with a piece of 2x2 square tube. There's probably a better way to go about it

[OVRAROK]

I started getting some noise from the rear end. I Found this when I drained the oil. 
I guess I need to keep a closer eye on my fluids after I've been in the water.



The bearings in the third member where toast. So I picked up another spooled 5.29 third from Marlin. I'm trying a LubeLocker gasket this time. My first impression is that its going to work great. I had some oil seepage around the diff using ultragrey and I suspect that's how the water got in.

I'm using lubelockers front and rear. Not a drop of oil.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Good to hear OVRAROK. I've got a hair over 1K miles on the diff now, with no signs of seepage  . 

[EASYRYDERDANGER]

What a boot the engine? How's it running?

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

The engine has been a real source of frustration.

 Having done everything I know to do, the engine has a couple strange issues with the idle I cant figure out and more importantly It has temperature issues. It gets Hot.

 It generally runs between 180-190 on the street, sometimes hotter when pulling long steep hills. It goes up to 205+ up hill on logging roads. I've only had it on the trail once and it ran a pretty constant 185 crawling around. 

 20+ degree temperature spikes just cruising logging roads cant be good. Another strange thing about it is the temp reacts to the position of the climate control switch for the heater.  I DD a 22R and it runs steady 180-185 all day everyday.





 

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

I don't think the cooling system is the problem (assuming something isn't plugged up).

This is what Ive done to try and cool it down,

New 3 core radiator
radiator cap
Dual stage thermostat
fan shroud
fan clutch x2
water pump x2
All new hoses/Toyota hose clamps
Replaced heater valve (used part)
Verified no coolant loss

For the idle I replaced

o2 sensor (denso)
EGR is new (Toyota)
TPS is new (Toyota)
idle air control valve

The IACV fixed the constant idle fluctuation but now I have low (400rpm) idle on warm starts and sometimes when coming to a stop before reaching full running temp.

Another idle problem I cant figure out is when coming to a stop my idle drops to about 500 RPM then recovers to 950. (Edit to add: The idle drop when stopping was solved by hooking up the vss wire and stop signal wire to the ecu)


     

[Ritchie]

Have you check the brake booster for possible air leaks? Perhaps the diaphragm is old?
Just a thought.

[EASYRYDERDANGER]

Head gasket failure? Maybe getting exhaust gas in to cooling system raising temp?  Restricted airflow across radiator?  Just I dears

[AZ Rockit]

It's been over a year since I updated this thread and I'm sure someone out there is dying to know if I ever got the winch back on   



I've been having a real demoralizing time trying to work the bugs out of my engine. That and with photobucket taking a dump I haven't been to motivated to keep the thread updated.

Nice looking truck.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Have you check the brake booster for possible air leaks? Perhaps the diaphragm is old?
Just a thought.

Thanks. I disconnected the booster from the intake and plugged the line, no changes. I also tested the one way valve.

   The idle drop thing will happen by revving the engine with the linkage and letting go, no brake involved.

Head gasket failure? Maybe getting exhaust gas in to cooling system raising temp?  Restricted airflow across radiator?  Just I dears

Thanks, I'm about out of ideas, so I appreciate it. I got together with Bestgen4runner and we tested for combustion gas in the radiator. That was last summer and I'm still not loosing coolant, so hopefully head gasket/ cracked block can be ruled out. 

As for air flow, I've been running this bumper and winch for a long time and The old motor didn't get hot. After the rebuild I ran the bumper without the winch for a while and it was getting hot then too.

[THK Matt]

so flippin clean man, and my fav color blue!

[EASYRYDERDANGER]

Is your temp sensor reading accurate?

[300k]

Is your temp sensor reading accurate?

No, it's a Toyota. 30 seconds after start up or nuclear melt down, it's still right in the sweet spot

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

Is your temp sensor reading accurate?

 The temp sensor for the ECU? I tested it on the truck. Cold and at 180 it is within range. Looks like to test it correctly I need to remove it from the truck. Maybe I will just order a new one on Monday.

[EASYRYDERDANGER]

No the sensor for your gauge and or your gauge... Maybe it's saying the engine is too hot but actually its normal, so it faulse leading?

[:)bestgen4runner]

I know We covered this before but where did you install the temp gauge sender? mechanical or electric?
I now have two 22re engines on the road both with the temp sender mounted in the thermostat housing. Both have mechanical autometer temp gauges installed. Both of them behave the way you have described. I think it's normal at this point. I have been running My 4runner this way now for 3 years with no issues. and the OEM gauge is completely worthless in My opinion.

[Bryan McCall]

I just started following this post series and I’m very impressed. Love to see how things work out.
The same thing happened to me with the temp spiking way up. I changed to a three core radiator, new hoses, dual stage thermostat, Toyota Red coolant, purged for air, spal electric fan, to no avail. On a whim I connected a capillary style temp guage and screwed it into a port near the therostat. It show consistent 180-190 with the a/c on and temps around 100 degrees. The stock gauge kept rising and rising.

[EASYRYDERDANGER]

Nice Bryan!  Good input, I suspect he has same issue ..

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

No the sensor for your gauge and or your gauge... Maybe it's saying the engine is too hot but actually its normal, so it faulse leading?

I know We covered this before but where did you install the temp gauge sender? mechanical or electric?
I now have two 22re engines on the road both with the temp sender mounted in the thermostat housing. Both have mechanical autometer temp gauges installed. Both of them behave the way you have described. I think it's normal at this point. I have been running My 4runner this way now for 3 years with no issues. and the OEM gauge is completely worthless in My opinion.

I am running a nice Autometer mechanical temp gauge ( https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-5732 ). It is installed in the factory location on the intake. I also have the factory gauge hooked up but I moved its sender to the thermostat housing.
The factory gauge will read just under half at 180-190.  Half between roughly 195-200. Once it gets hotter than 200 the factory gauge climbs up 3/4 or so to the red mark. So it seems the factory gauge is confirming what the Autometer gauge is telling me. Also I tested the Autometer gauge with a thermometer and pot of water when I bought it.

[toyodaaddict [OP]]

One thing I'm wondering about is if my mechanical timing could be causing this. I used an adjustable cam gear. I did NOT use a degree wheel to install it,  I just set it to what I believe is about 2* advanced. I did this due to a decked block and in hopes of better bottom end with my cam (the new motor does not have the power at idle like the old one). Jim at 22reperformance said this should be fine, others have said otherwise.

I've about reached the point of accepting that I've done what I can and if it dies, so be it. I've been avoiding driving it over Snoqualmie pass (hit 198* going up Tiger) but I think the time has about come   

[EASYRYDERDANGER]

You will be fine, if it gets past 220-230 over the pass and seems to only be getting hotter, then u may want to have concern.  There are alot of cars out there that operate in the 200's and high speed fans only turn on once 230...

[Toy(Yota)]

I’ve had similar issues for years in my 22re. On the road it’s fine but on a long incline or on the trail it climbs. I’m finally About to order a mechanical gauge and hose adapter and I’ll keep my stock temp sender location where it is. I’m going To try electric fans too and see if it makes a difference.

[:)bestgen4runner]

I’ve had similar issues for years in my 22re. On the road it’s fine but on a long incline or on the trail it climbs. I’m finally About to order a mechanical gauge and hose adapter and I’ll keep my stock temp sender location where it is. I’m going To try electric fans too and see if it makes a difference.

I love My auxiliary fan. Added piece of mind. I kept the factory gauge also. 230 on the auto meter mechanic gauge in Moab and the factory gauge was a hair over dead center.