Topic: 22re full rebuild

[redneckcustoms13]

Felpro intake gaskets do fine. I don't particularly care for their exhaust manifold gasket. It's thin and seems to fail within the first year of use. Oem for exhaust in my opinion.

[sassparilla_kid [OP]]

I got a full gasket set on Amazon, I think from some company called Evergreen or something?? I ended up with a bunch of spares because all of the replacement stuff  (timing cover, water pump, etc) came with gaskets, so I've just been using whichever seemed better quality

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[Gnarly4X]

Gasket and seal brands are like oil and filters.... and like toilet paper... whatever works and feels good to you.

For my recent engine rebuild, I used the gaskets from engnbldr's kit.  After doing more research and getting more input from some of the guys here, and getting some feedback from the Technical people at several aftermarket suppliers, I'd probably buy a different set of gaskets and seals, and lean towards Toyota brand.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

They're both Luk brand, and of course I ordered them for a turbo truck because I believe there are minor differences between them and the n/a models (diameter, spline count?)
Unfortunately the guy who has the machine shop doesn't have any balancing equipment, so now I'm debating finding a shop that does or just assume they're close enough from the manufacturer.

Was hoping to get the engine mostly buttoned up today but I dicked around all morning and ran out of time to really get anything done. Managed to get the rest of the engine bits power washed though, so pretty much all I have left (while it's on the stand) is setting cam timing, install the distributor, and get the intake manifold/s (such a weird design) on along with whatever other piping there is for the egr and water stuff. I'M GETTING SO EXCITED!!!!

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My transmission shop recommends Luk.

Regarding balancing... Tod at engnbldr said it isn't necessary with stock+ 22.  I had my machine shop balance everything.

The stock 22 flywheel weighs 24.5 lbs, the pressure plate weighs 10.5 lbs, the clutch disc weighs 2 lbs 9.7 oz. that's a lot of weight hanging off the end of the crankshaft and the input shaft, spinning at 4,000 or 5,000 RPMs.  Having the flywheel and the pressure plate balanced together can't hurt, BUT... lots of guys say you really don't need to worry too much unless you are going to build a high RPM engine, and the factory/supplier balancing is good enough.  I think I paid an extra $95.00 for the balance job.

I had it done more because of my anal curiosity.

Gnarls.

[emsvitil]

I wonder if you could use a motorcycle wheel balancer to do the flywheel, pressure plate and disc...........

[Gnarly4X]

I wonder if you could use a motorcycle wheel balancer to do the flywheel, pressure plate and disc...........

Probably not accurate enough?  There's a big difference between static balancing and dynamic balancing.

Gnarls.

[emsvitil]

A flywheel, pressure plate and disc are thin enough that dynamic wouldn't matter. 

[emsvitil]

Also more accurate than doing nothing

[Gnarly4X]

A flywheel, pressure plate and disc are thin enough that dynamic wouldn't matter. 

A flywheel, pp, and clutch disc together are no longer a single plane.  Any accurate balancing should be done dynamically.  If the accuracy of balancing a flywheel was not that critical, why are there $100,000 to $500,000+ balancing machines? 

For $95 more added to the total cost of a quality rebuilt engine - for me that's a no brainer.  I've spent almost that much on RTV and sealer! 

More importantly, I would NEVER trust myself at attempting to check and drill a flywheel or pressure plate to balance them on anything I would have in my garage. 

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

Also more accurate than doing nothing

I would do nothing.  I would leave the flywheel at whatever factory/supplier balance job before EVER attempting to do something myself!.... messing up a flywheel balance job would get me an "F" DIYer grade , and could FUBAR a rebuild. 

Gnarls.

[sassparilla_kid [OP]]

Now that we're past the flywheel, some more technical questions. First, I'm assuming all of the efi related sensors (aside from the AFM) are the same between turbo and non-turbo? Several of the ones on the engine going into the truck are broken off so I'd rather use the ones from the engine coming out than spend another $4-500 on electronics. Secondly, I'm curious if the throttle body is the same between turbo and non-turbo? Somebody was telling me the turbo one is larger but I haven't found anything online discussing it

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[Gnarly4X]

.... Somebody was telling me ....but I haven't found anything ...

Be careful... there's a lot of fake news out there. 

Gnarls.

[sassparilla_kid [OP]]

Engine is in! Runs awesome! Got a few exhaust leaks to address and then smog still, hope to be daily driving it in the next month or so

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