Author Topic: #turdburglar  (Read 19940 times)

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seebrookmeyer

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#turdburglar
« on: Jan 31, 2017, 07:23:28 AM »
Figured I should start an actual project thread on my poo pile, the Turdburglar
 
Here are some more details of the car as it was when I purchased it...

1986 Extra Cab
rebuilt 22re (about 1,000 miles on the motor since rebuild)
Bomb Proof motor mounts
Big ol' stinger up front with a 9000b warn winch
rock sliders and tube rear bumper

Marlin crawl box
4.70 in the rear case
Bomb Proof t case mount
4.88's with ARB air lockers front and rear
Chromo Shafts front and rear
10 bolt front axle, disc brakes
Toyota rear, with drums
37" Old style MTR's
Steel wheels

interior cage
Master craft seats with harnesses
rock lights
beat for bumping Party in the USA
CB radio

Since purchasing I have been able to wheel this thing a handful of times. Maiden voyage was rubicon for Memorial Weekend with the Poly Goats. Truck worked well, was mostly just getting a feel for it, in particular wheeling with dual cases. Lots of lever to pull, but I'm getting a lot more comfortable with it and enjoying it a lot more. 

improvements since buying
-14" 2.0 smooth bodies up front
-spare tire carrier with 12" 2.5 smooth bodies mounted off the back of this, with hi-lift mount and soon to be a baja basket on top
-15" TR beadlocks (snapped a few wheel studs off in the process of removing the old wheels, which led to the discovery of completely blown out seals)
-freshly serviced rear end, new seals, brake pads and wheel studs
-some sweet pink interior lights that look like a Tijuana strip club
 
on the list still
-not a 10 bolt front end, not sure what it will get replaced or the timeline for this but I would like to get rid of it sooner rather than later. Either back to toyota axle or possibly a 60 or something similar with the goal to keep it close to toyota width
-transmission needs some loving, countershaft bearing is pretty much shot and getting louder each trip, hoping to make it out of KOH this coming weekend and have it be a problem before summer wheeling starts
-new tranny/transfer case crossmember, current one hangs pretty low so I would like to get something up a little higher and build some skids off of it
-clean up electrical, engine bay and interior
-this list is pretty much endless and will continue to grow with every trip. 









 

Congill77

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #1 on: Jan 31, 2017, 08:11:21 AM »

-this list is pretty much endless and will continue to grow with every trip. 
Hahaha I know this feeling way to well this thing looks pretty mean tough.


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SqWADoosh

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #2 on: Jan 31, 2017, 09:06:52 AM »
Best title ever.  :rofl2:

redneckcustoms13

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #3 on: Jan 31, 2017, 01:35:22 PM »
I'm glued to anything turd brown. I dig it!
83 long bed 2wd sas, 3rz, w56, duals with 4.7 rear, 4.88 elock front, spartan rear, 39.5 iroks
01 double cab hunting truck
06 tacoma street truck

rybike

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #4 on: Jan 31, 2017, 06:32:45 PM »
Dirty :pokinit: but I like it!

Congill77

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #5 on: Feb 01, 2017, 12:18:20 PM »
Did you figure out the problem with 4th and the crawl bow shifter?


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seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #6 on: Feb 01, 2017, 09:16:39 PM »
Did you figure out the problem with 4th and the crawl bow shifter?


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Unfortunately work has been kicking my ass this week and I haven't had any garage time the past few nights. It's on the list for tomorrow night with the final KOH prep items.

Congill77

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #7 on: Feb 01, 2017, 09:25:27 PM »
Hahaha alright. Just curious


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seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #8 on: Feb 03, 2017, 07:46:34 AM »
Got the rear painted and buttoned up ahead of KOH, new diff cover, breather, and brake lines. Had to lose the e-brake as it got in the way of the shiny new shocks. Used the existing e-brake bracket for mount the tee for the brake lines. Ended up with the hi-lift at the rear of the tire cage, was just a bit too tight to the reservoir hoses in the rear. Got the Artec fluid holder mounted up as well. Exhaust currently dumps right next to my shocks which I'm not in love with but the hamsters up front not make too much heat, so I'm not too concerned. Easy fix if need be.

Still can't find a decent way to mount the e-track in the bed that allows for universal storage tie downs without have a ton of dead space. Scored a pelican 45qt cooler but between how big it is and how much room it needs to open the lid while strapped down its about the only thing that fits back there now. Going to buy some single slot parts and tie down rings and see what I can figure out something I like. In the mean time I'll just continue to use the eyelets that I mounted up and call it day.





seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #9 on: Feb 03, 2017, 07:49:05 AM »
Hahaha alright. Just curious

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Dug into this a little and the short answer is I think there is enough of a hook on the stick to get it out of the way. The other option is to put a bit more of a jog in it myself to give some clearance.

Congill77

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#turdburglar
« Reply #10 on: Feb 03, 2017, 07:53:14 AM »
Dug into this a little and the short answer is I think there is enough of a hook on the stick to get it out of the way. The other option is to put a bit more of a jog in it myself to give some clearance.
I'm pretty sure this is a stock I picked it up at a u-pull-it yard with the rest of the case

You can kinda see that the pin is angled to change where it sits


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seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #11 on: Feb 04, 2017, 04:28:40 PM »
Got the beadlocks on and took it for a shake down run through the neighborhood and...... a need wheel spacers.


Need to get a set before I leave for KOH on Tuesday evening. Anyone in the bay area with a set they are looking to get rid of let me know. Also able to meet you out on the lake bed wednesday morning.





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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #12 on: Feb 04, 2017, 07:50:45 PM »
Or different BS wheels.
Time to go wheelin!

seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #13 on: Feb 16, 2017, 09:36:04 PM »
Made it back from KOH without the wheels falling off... but they almost did. 10 bolts are garbage, especially when they are never maintained. Going to do a refresh with all new wheel bearings and seals. Additionally need to put a new helicoil/keensert in the bottom bolt of the diff cover to stop the constant drip. This will hopefully get me through the summer season and give me some time to build something new.

Beginning to research what I want for the next axle.
Things I have learned:
1. I can spend a lot of money very quickly
2. There are a million options

Started to tear into the 10 bolt tonight and to no surprise, it was a disaster in there. As shitty as a 10 bolt is, this is a maintenance problem, not an axle problem. I never cracked this open to check anything in the front axle. The rear was well abused and not well maintain either so I really can't say I'm surprised.

The end of the sub shaft is pretty much smoked,the splines are essentially completely rounded off from he hub wobbling about the sub shaft for the 10 miles back to camp. I was hoping this wouldnt be the case but I will likely need to replace the passenger stub shaft, the driver side is still in good shape. Never replaced a stub shaft before so it will be a fun time regardless. Locking hub on the passenger side is destroyed, going to just replace both for peace of mind. 

Its hard to be excited about rebuilding a 10 bolt but I need this axle to last me a little longer until I figure out a better option and have the funds to build said better option. I'm in the wheel bearings and seals $100 bucks and am willing to spend a few more dollars but really don't want to spend too much money or time on this.
In terms of the next axle, starting to lean towards a fabricated toyota housing or FJ80. I like the idea of getting the front back to Toyota 8" because of the availability of parts on the internet/ junk yards/ trail. FJ80 axle would be a stronger option, less widely available, but could be built for less than a fabricated housing.

One perk to a fabricated toyota housing is that it somewhat puts a ceiling on this build. I don't plan to run anything bigger than 37's on this rig and retaining toyota axles helps to reaffirm that thought. The downside is that when I do decided to build something bigger and better, I don't have a fancy bulletproof axle like a 9" or 60 to pull from one to the other.




Someday

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ArloMyles

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #15 on: Mar 04, 2017, 08:46:18 PM »
Thats a great looking tire rack!!! :shades:

seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #16 on: May 12, 2017, 10:31:14 AM »
After KOH my axle sounded like an episode of will it blend and I have officially spent way more money on a 10 bolt than anyone should ever spend. The further I dug the more I found that was not right. Pretty safe to say that axle had never been serviced in the 10 years that it has been on the car. Here are some pictures of the carnage that I found.

I ended up stripping the axle down to the inner C's and basically replaced everything from there out. New ball joints for the knuckles, all new seals bearings and races, rebuilt the CTM joints and new chromo outer shafts, new spindles and finally a new set of locking hubs since the above photo shows pretty clearly how many pieces the old one came out in.


completed on the bench, with a freshly painted gold diff cover

back on the truck, same old tie rod smile but a fancy new synthetic winch line


working on getting my race radio mounted. pulled the center vents of out of the dash and mounted the radio where they were. bracket is welded in, need to finish a face plate to close it up. 

new PRP seat belts installed as well



Looking forward to wheeling this thing down at the hammer for memorial day

seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #17 on: May 29, 2017, 10:59:51 AM »
Well my 10 bolt survived JV but my steering box definitely didn't. Ripped the mount off at the waterfall on Wrecking Ball. Made for an interesting exit down the top of wrecking ball. Harbor Freight ratchet strap for the win. Time to build a new mount and will likely be the catalyst to go the hydro assist route. Would like to do high steer while I'm at it so that I can get rid of my stupid tie rod frown. The truck wheeled really well up to this point.


seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #18 on: Jan 17, 2019, 10:16:02 AM »
Finally getting around to my 1 ton axle swap. Starting with the 14 bolt since Peter already had the bulk of the parts needed to get this going. Disassembled the everything, cut off perches and brackets and wire wheeled everything I could get to. Ended up going with the Barnes 13 bolt shave kit, no turning down of the ring gear required and you still get about 1.25" of clearance out of it. Smoothed out the rest of the bottom side to hopefully prevent any other potential hang ups. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it came out, still need to fill the 14th bolt hole. dropped the axle and hubs off to get media blasted and get all the rest of the :pokinit: in all the cracks and crevices of the housing cleaned out and ready for welding the truss, perches and shock mounts up.

When I cracked the cover open the pinion was missing a tooth and the straddle bearing was in many pieces. Found a 4.56 ring and pinion on here a while back so I will be installing those into the additional carrier that Peter had. The plan was to just weld up the rear into a nice pretty orb of traction but a mini spool for a 14 bolt is only 150 bucks and seems like a pretty simple solution that doesn't involve burning half a spool of welding wire into some spider gears. Likely going to be going that route. 

Once I get back from Baja I'll be pulling the current Toyota rear and getting it ready to mock up the 14 bolt. 







seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #19 on: Feb 01, 2019, 10:04:28 AM »
got the rear end out last night. passenger seal blew out following MCR, if I get bored I'll replace it before selling the axle but probably not. got the spring pack broken down and the new perches with a spacer on the pack for mock ups. hoping to have the axle tacked into place this evening. the creeper joints in the rear are pretty gross but appear to be in decent shape. not sure if they are really old but they don't have a zerk fitting on them like the ones you can buy today have. will likely just be rebuilding those and drill and tapping a hole for that. Will get the rotors staked onto the hubs and mounted onto the axle. test fit the wheels on the one of the partially assembled hubs and found that I am going to need either a very long lug nut or a bulge style nut with a smaller hex size since the pockets on the Methods are not large. once I have that sorted out I will mount up two of the 39's on the new wheels and start cycling/ trimming as needed. with everything out of way right now there is a bunch of misc :pokinit: that I want to clean up that has been bothering me for awhile. Hopefully when all said and done it will be a very pretty poop Toyota under there.

should have the rest of the parts for the disc brake conversion in hand by early next week, followed shortly thereafter by all the goodies for the differential.

Still have no clue what I am planing for bumps. Andrew mentioned some alternative to the bravada bumps that they are using and really liking. But we talked about that on Friday in Baja 18 beers deep.... so the details of that conversation are limited at best.
Here are some random photos of the progress and some photos of the old alxe if anyone is interested. 





seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #20 on: Feb 19, 2019, 08:48:40 AM »
Spent Monday in the garage after my in-laws left this weekend. Started by getting the pinion angle set up. The transfer case is set at 2 degrees and the previous axle was set at 9 degrees. by the letter of the internet law it seems like the goal would be to have the pinion set equal and opposite the output aka 2 degrees up. mocked up it seems like I was just going to be dragging the pinion through every rock the trail has to offer. Seemed likes as long as I was within 1-3 degrees I wouldn't really have any issues. 5 degrees at ride height gave me right around 2 at full bump and about 7 at full droop. The pinion still felt like it was pretty low so I ended up at 7 degrees at ride height, full bump 4, full droop about 9. The previous axle was set at 9 at ride height and I never felt like I had any real issues with it. this thing doesn't go fast and isn't ever driven at freeway speeds on the road so I am not overly concerned.
Got the perches tacked followed by lower shock mounts and started cycling to see how everything was moving together. I was hoping to be able to leave the upper shocks as is but the new lower mounts are significantly lower than where they were on the previous axle so at full bump there is still about 5 inches of shock shaft left. articulated, the shock was definitely the limiting factor and was completely extended. sooo relocating the top mounts it is. ordered some new mounts this morning and will figure that out this next weekend.



Shifted my efforts to the bump stops so I could still keep making progress for the day. built some extensions for the silverado bumps that Andrew recommended (p/n: 15712438). Pretty simple and gives me the ability to lower them down a bit if needed by adding some spacers between the bump and the mounting pad. removed the old mounts and cleaned everything up. obviously the thread rod won't be sticking up through the spring plate once the leaf pack is back together.



so far im pretty happy with how it is turning out. Next up will either be the upper shock mounts or to get the brakes assembled and disc brake brackets tacked in followed by the truss. tomorrow will hopefully be bead lock mounting day so I can start figuring out what else needs to be trimmed back there. once thats figured out I can pull it back out to finish weld everything on the bench. Here how it was sitting at the end of yesterday.



seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #21 on: Nov 19, 2019, 04:21:05 PM »
Way over budget and way behind schedule (the original plan was to have the rear done by Scooter's wedding) but the rear end rebuild is complete and ready to go into its new home. What started as a maintenance focused rebuild snowballed pretty quickly. There isn't a whole lot that isn't new outside of the housing, pinion carrier, hubs and axles. this was my first real go at an overhaul of this scale and leveraged the :pokinit: out of the billa vista 14 bolt bible (http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/14-Bolt_Bible/index.html), especially helpful with setting up the gears.
had plenty of hiccups along the way but overall im pretty stoked with how everything came out.

build list includes:
Barnes 13 bolt diff cover
Barnes 14 bolt truss
Barnes pinion guard 
Ruff Stuff u bolt eliminator kit 
Ruff Stuff disc brake brackets
new calipers, rotors and pads (auto-zone special)
new 5.38 thick cut gear set
new carrier (thick cut gears are not compatible with a 4.56 carrier)
new mini spool
all new bearings, races and seals
Before:


After:


seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #22 on: Mar 02, 2020, 12:02:22 PM »
Started to get the 60 put together so I can mock up the 4wu kit that has finally arrived. I was only able to get one side put together cause the lower king pin rebuild kit was missing the dust seal and wasn't able to find one locally. Trying to document and as much of the rebuild as possible. unlike the 14 bolt bible on pirate, there isn't really a single source for start to finish on rebuilding a 60. I'll say Im going to compile all this into one big post but we all know the reality of that happening. 
In talking with some other people who have ran the kit, the plan is to run 16" 2.5 coil overs with 2" 2.0 air bumps. the mounts for the air bumps restrict my options a bit for the style of can I can run. Will need to run a single bolt style can or got with a King 2.0 that has a threaded stud.  Its sounds like packaging everything is a bit of chore, especially when running the shock towers that came with the kit. If its too much :pokinit: to stuff up front I may opt to build my own hoops and tube work for the front but that will be a problem for a later date.


rapier46

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #23 on: Mar 10, 2020, 08:59:57 PM »
 :smokin:

seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #24 on: Apr 28, 2020, 11:51:10 AM »
progress is crawling along here. 

back in hover craft mode with the the 10 bolt removed. Next step will be to chop off all the existing brackets, tabs, hoops and mounts and clean up the entirety of the frame rails from the body mounts forward. The plan is to pull the motor and trans to make this effort easier, while hopefully tracking down a rebuilt transmission to replace this one with. 


seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #25 on: Jun 01, 2020, 07:39:20 AM »
continuing to inch along with this thing. The 60 is pretty much assembled and ready for link brackets to be mocked up. I ran into some fitment issues with the disc brake brackets that came with the kit from Lugnut 4x4. Started the passenger side and couldn't get the caliper to fit between the arms of the caliper mount, nothing a little grinding couldn't fix. Once over that hurdle, the angle of bends in the bracket wasn't letting the caliper sit correctly left to right on the rotor. A little massaging in the press brake and it seemed to do the trick. Wasn't thrilled that I had to do any of this but moved on to the driver side. test fit the caliper, slid in fine but the bolt holes were about 1/4"- 3/8" out of alignment. At this point I reached out to Shawn from Lugnut and had 2 new brackets in the mail this morning. Do despite the frustration of not being able to get too much accomplished I was happy that Shawn took care of it no questions asked. 

Used this as an opportunity to get some TIG practice in via the addition of some non-tear dropped weld washers. turns out, TIG welding is still pretty tough when do it about once a year. Looking forward to getting some more hood time with some of the components of this front end. Onto the passenger side link mount. the design intent is to locate the passenger side bracket using the bolt holes for the leaf spring perch. using those to locate the bracket there was about a 1/4" gap at the axle tube. I continued to reposition the bracket until I got a pretty tight fit to the axle tubes well still using the front bolt hole has my locating feature. In chatting with Brian from 4WU and showing him some photos of what I had mocked up, there wasn't going to be any ramifications future down the line with the new position I had the bracket it. Remade the "spacer" that resides under the bracket on the flat of the spring perch to account for the new fitment and placed the panhard bar mount in its home to confirm that everything was still happy. panhard mount actually sits in a better location now than so that was a plus. once it is tac'd into place the bolt is removed and the truss lands on top of that hole location.









seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #26 on: Jun 15, 2020, 08:24:51 AM »
New brake brackets from Lugnut4x4 came in, installed without issue. Making some progress on mocking up the axle side brackets. Passenger side lower link mount and panhard bar mount are in tacked in place, along with the truss. outside of a little material removal primarily around bent components, everything is fitting together well. Need to take some measurements and get the driver side link mount tacked in place.




Packaging the steering is going to be fun. Looking through some other builds that have used 4WU's Dana 60 kit, they seem to all use Artec's double sheer high steer arms. Using an arm with the knuckle bolt for double shear helps free up a fair amount of space. At a minimum, I will need to get a longer driver side high steer arm, which I can order from ballistic to match the length of my passenger arm. 
With a longer driver side arm, I can assemble my steering to match this stacked style, but on the high steer arm opposed to the knuckle. Could try to create a modular double shear bracket, similar to what ballistic is offering, using the 5th knuckle bolt hole I am not currently using with the OEM style knuckle and/or the other tie rod/ drag link hole in the high steer arm. Once that is sorted out I can focus on packaging the hydro assist ram in there.


seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #27 on: Jun 22, 2020, 09:55:58 AM »
all of the axle side brackets are in place except for the upper link mount. that will get set once the axle is under the truck. ordered a new long driver arm from Ballistic. Once that arrives I will cut the tie rod down to length and mock up the hydro assist ram and intending to stick with the single shear steering. began tearing the front end apart to clean up the frame rails. Going to end up pulling the AC components to free up some space and combing through the bulk of the existing accessory wiring to tidy things up in that department as well. Will need to start thinking about what new tube work will need to be done up front for shock mounts, bumper and winch.




seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #28 on: Jun 29, 2020, 08:15:20 AM »
new long driver high steer arm arrived. got it installed, tie rod cut to length and hydro assist mocked up.


seebrookmeyer [OP]

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Re: #turdburglar
« Reply #29 on: Aug 23, 2020, 08:19:37 PM »
Making some headway on the front end of this thing. Brought Russ out of retirement to help me pull the motor out of this thing. The frame was littered with remnants of the old ifs brackets from the original solid axle swap. Couple that with a cracked passenger side motor mount and small crack developing below the core support on the driver side, pulling the motor to clean the frame rails was the only way I was going to be happy and confident with the end result of linking this thing.




Got the motor pulled followed by the trans and t cases, everything was pretty well cover in oil from a few power steering mishaps as well as a constant leak from the motor. Separated the trans from the t cases to slide the new to me transmission in. The counter shaft bearings in my current trans were going/gone and I scored a replacement for cheap. did a pretty thorough cleaning and once over of the cases, installed a new push and turn shifter base on the front case to make things a little more serviceable as well as a new seat and socket for the transmission. got the new trans mated to the old cases and the new t case crossmember.   




Between Pat, Russ and myself we spent about 8 hours grinding away on the frame rails. removed all the existing motor mounts and ifs mounts, shock hoops, stock t case and fabricated mount that was a install for the dual cases. we debated cutting the frame at the body mounts and building all new but given the rarity of long, consecutive days in the garage, cleaning the stock frame and leaving the auxiliary electrical components in place (fuse box, battery, ignitor coil, resistors, smog equipment) was a better decision.  The frame rails are as clean as they could be and ready to be plated. While everything is out I degreased and cleaned the entirety of the engine bay. 





With the motor out, it seemed like a good time to install a new clutch and flywheel. Russ spent a good hour degreasing the motor in an attempt to locate the oil leak. initially we thought rear main seal had given out filthy the transmission was but after cleaning everything up and pull the valve cover we found water seeping in. the half moons on either end had not been properly sealed whenever the motor was initially installed and were pushing oil out the anytime it was running.