Author Topic: Congill77 87t4r go anywhere dd build (Read 31020 times)

Congill77 · « **Reply #30 on:** Dec 18, 2016, 10:56:32 PM »

that was on the starter

more clutch material in the bottom of the bell housing. And that is where I call it for the night because it's really wet under the truck

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:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #31 on:** Dec 19, 2016, 07:27:10 AM »

Somebody overheated there clutch.

When the clutch becomes temp critical

(Clutch) the glue holding the clutch fibers together starts to melt, and poof. All the fibers fly off the little metal portion of the disc.

Congill77 · « **Reply #32 on:** Dec 19, 2016, 07:30:35 AM »

Ya. It didn't help that the clutch had been slipping for a few months now. I told myself I was going to run it till it blew up. But I already have a Marlin 1600lb clutch and a flywheel ready to go on. I would of finished it last night if it was dry but after tearing the trans out laying on the floor I was miserable.

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H8PVMNT · « **Reply #33 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 07:40:01 AM »

Hey you should try the additional step grind that Marlin recommend on the flywheel. It even helps on lousy clutches.

Congill77 · « **Reply #34 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 09:29:28 AM »

Would you care to elaborate a little on the grind? Your referring to the duel surface correct?

this right?

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Congill77 · « **Reply #35 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 10:21:23 AM »

still good right?

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Congill77 · « **Reply #36 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 10:22:03 AM »

still good right?

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SqWADoosh · « **Reply #37 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 10:26:44 AM »

Congill77 · « **Reply #38 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 10:33:20 AM »

I can't hate this clutch though. It lasted 210k miles.

Mudder · « **Reply #39 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 11:04:31 AM »

I'd suggest replacing the rear main seal before you put the clutch back in. And don't forget to oil it.

Congill77 · « **Reply #40 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 11:05:05 AM »

Ya I'm planning on it.

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:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #41 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 11:41:17 AM »

Exactly what I expected. Not a piece of clutch remaining on the disc. LOL

Congill77 · « **Reply #42 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 12:37:46 PM »

Hahaha ya it's pretty bad

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knucklebuster · « **Reply #43 on:** Dec 20, 2016, 09:36:39 PM »

Well I was kinda wondering if ya had a stick or an automatic!
Glad to see you can use that 5+ hp part I sent ya! $Beer Chug\'n$

Congill77 · « **Reply #44 on:** Dec 22, 2016, 09:22:42 AM »

Quote from: knucklebuster on Dec 20, 2016, 09:36:39 PM

Well I was kinda wondering if ya had a stick or an automatic!
Glad to see you can use that 5+ hp part I sent ya! $Beer Chug\'n$

Yes sir! Though my first thought when I saw it was that in negative -10* that we've had where I live it is going to freeze the crap out of my hand. But it's still gonna go on! I'll just have to get thicker gloves

Any one have any advice about how to stab the trans in? Anything other then screw with if till you get it?

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SqWADoosh · « **Reply #45 on:** Dec 22, 2016, 09:47:36 AM »

Quote from: Congill77 on Dec 22, 2016, 09:22:42 AM

Yes sir! Though my first thought when I saw it was that in negative -10* that we've had where I live it is going to freeze the crap out of my hand. But it's still gonna go on! I'll just have to get thicker gloves
Any one have any advice about how to stab the trans in? Anything other then screw with if till you get it?

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Its really just that. Gonna have to change the angle on it while pushing in. Rocking it side to side. Also rotate the splines using the rear output as well.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #46 on:** Dec 22, 2016, 10:58:26 AM »

One nice trick is to find a couple extra long bolts the same size as the larger sized bell housing to block bolts and cut the heads off. You can thread a couple of these in and they act like extra long alignment pins. Then when you get a couple of the real bolts in you can take these out by hand.

It still requires squaring everything up and a bit of swearing but it makes it a lot easier to get things together.

Congill77 · « **Reply #47 on:** Dec 22, 2016, 11:00:57 AM »

Well i got it. With the help of a Toyota tech that I'm buddies with. Took lots of swearing. But it's in now. Just need to button everything up

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kneedownnate · « **Reply #48 on:** Dec 22, 2016, 12:07:16 PM »

Quote from: Congill77 on Dec 20, 2016, 10:33:20 AM

I can't hate this clutch though. It lasted 210k miles.

Mine has almost 280,000 miles behind my 22re

Congill77 · « **Reply #49 on:** Dec 22, 2016, 01:51:26 PM »

Quote from: kneedownnate on Dec 22, 2016, 12:07:16 PM

Mine has almost 280,000 miles behind my 22re

Hahaha ya I think this one could of lasted to that if I hadn't started being stupid with it a few thousand miles ago

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Congill77 · « **Reply #50 on:** Dec 22, 2016, 03:29:32 PM »

Alright. It's done.

I also replaced the shifter seat and cup. Also had to adjust the master cylinder and bleed the clutch. It's really weird having everything so stiff all of a sudden. And boy is that clutch a work out

Congill77 · « **Reply #51 on:** Dec 23, 2016, 08:14:59 AM »

got this thing installed last night.

thanks again knucklebuster! Then I went to a buddies house with some friends to dd for them, and my dumb ass left my lights on! I've done it quite a few times now.... So I've decided I'm going to dummy proof it so I can't do it again. That will probably get done when I install the sr5 tach and altimeter cluster. Fingers crossed I don't break any dash components

since last time I took one of these dashes out it didn't fair too well. Thank god I don't have to put that dash back in with that project!

because who need interior anyway?

OTO Phil · « **Reply #52 on:** Dec 23, 2016, 02:00:41 PM »

Highly recommend a layer of Dynamat or some sort of sound deadening.. i did it with mine and don't regret it one bit! 👍

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Congill77 · « **Reply #53 on:** Dec 23, 2016, 02:05:12 PM »

Ya that's the other project. I'm not in any real hurry for getting it done. It will have a cage and some other stuff but that's for another thread

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knucklebuster · « **Reply #54 on:** Dec 23, 2016, 06:39:33 PM »

the 4runner im building is an auto, I'd rather see it being used. Plus it was for a good cause!

Congill77 · « **Reply #55 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 09:01:08 AM »

So I rotated my tires today and peeked at my front breaks, they are getting low not metal on metal yet but I think I'd like to upgrade them well I'm at it. I've been looking between 3rd gen and t100 both with a 1inch master. Any one have any opinions on one over the other?? This is where I've gotten most of my info so far http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/35037-How-to-Upgrade-your-1st-Gen-Toyota-4Runner-Brakes

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SqWADoosh · « **Reply #56 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 09:59:34 AM »

Quote from: Congill77 on Dec 27, 2016, 09:01:08 AM

So I rotated my tires today and peeked at my front breaks, they are getting low not metal on metal yet but I think I'd like to upgrade them well I'm at it. I've been looking between 3rd gen and t100 both with a 1inch master. Any one have any opinions on one over the other?? This is where I've gotten most of my info so far http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/35037-How-to-Upgrade-your-1st-Gen-Toyota-4Runner-Brakes

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In my build thread you'll find where I utilized the Front Range Offroad bracket to upgrade to 3rd gen 4Runner brakes. They are great. I also did the IFS hub swap at the same time. Highly recommend going this route.

Congill77 · « **Reply #57 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 10:12:56 AM »

Quote from: SqWADoosh on Dec 27, 2016, 09:59:34 AM

In my build thread you'll find where I utilized the Front Range Offroad bracket to upgrade to 3rd gen 4Runner brakes. They are great. I also did the IFS hub swap at the same time. Highly recommend going this route.

I suppose I should of mentioned that I still have ifs. Sorry 'bout that. But your referring to these right?

I've been trolling through LCE's, FROR's and Marlin's sites looking for a "kit" and the only thing I've really found is Marlins caliper and rotor combo: https://www.marlincrawler.com/brake/brake-combos/brake-caliper-and-rotor-combo I believe those are 3rd gen calipers correct? I'd like to get stuff that will work on a solid axle if I chose to go that route. (Though that will probably only happen if a axle falls in my lap for next to nothing. Can't say I foresee that happening though)

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SqWADoosh · « **Reply #58 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 10:15:14 AM »

I highly recommend just getting your calipers and rotors through your local Autozone. Going to cost you less. Don't get me wrong I'm all about supporting Marlin but his cost doesn't give you any money back for cores so is quite a bit more.

Congill77 · « **Reply #59 on:** Dec 29, 2016, 07:25:58 PM »

Well for the first time in a few weeks I had time to work on my truck today on somethings that's weren't mandatory but did I do any of that? Nooooo. Instead I built myself a welding/work table!

the table isn't complete just yet but it's usable. I'm going to add some casters to it so I don't have to heave it around when I want to move it. I also picked up some of the components I'm going to need for my triple stick set up. That will be a project to do over the next few days if I don't make it up to the mountains to go snowboarding.

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