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After recommendations I did a bunch of research and posted some questions on other sites. I also spoke to Rory at RAD designs.. I learned the Toyota Auto is a very good trans.. also learned it's the same trans used behind the Chrysler (Jeep) 4.0 engine (Cherokee XJ, Wrangler etc.) Coupled with the Trans-Go shift kit, and the RAD Designs Winters Shifter the Auto is a viable option for the build... So I decided to take the plunge.. I've never wheeled an Auto but those who have love them.. It is also said the double t-cases are not necessary behind an auto.. just a single 4.7 case... I already had the case built so I'm using doubles.. P.S. - with the simple swap of an AW4 tail housing (the jeep version of the trans) you can bolt up an Atlas Case..
Autos definitely are easier to wheel than a manual with the exception of when you have dual ultimate gearing there is very little difference. You will find the automatic to be more fun in the higher "hill climb" gear ranges. The downside with the dual ultimate is having to use neutral to stop as the brakes may not be able to overcome the torque. It's more natural to disengage the clutch than to put an automatic in neutral so you may have to get used to that.
your not going to run the shock at that angle are you?
Pretty close why not..?
It could just be the picture...but if your shock is not, at least 90 degrees at full bump, you will get some weird performance characteristics, and you will never get it valved correctly... it looks like the shock will pivot forward at full bump, then swing/pivot back..the shock will swing both ways throughout the travel is what i am trying to say...(if you had a degree finder on the shock during full articulation, it will go from 80 degrees to 100 degrees...you dont want that....you want either 80-90 or 90-100 never both sides of perpendicular... again, this is all off of the picture...the angles just look all whacky...if you moved the upper shock mount forward to be exactly perpendicular, at bump...then you would be fine... again these measurements are directly correlated to the links them selves, not anything else on the truck.. P.S. i am not dogging on this build what so ever! i think this build is amazing!!
I understand and I appreciate your input.. This is why I put the build up on the forum.. Discussion is definitely welcome. In the above picture I believe the axle is at full bump (or close to it) .. I will have to get the angle finder and visit with boss about it.. I'm by no means an expert.
And no worries, i figured it was just a picture to show shock on axle..but it made me take a double take, and thought it looked like an odd placement. IF you are at full bump in that picture, then i would highly recommend not leaving that much up travel in the shock... but by the amount of fab work being done. i assume, you have a buddy helping you or doing the harder fab work! so i am sure he knows whats up.
I'm learning.. Yep Jason is the pro on the fab work I'm helping.. So If I understand correctly 90 degrees is a good starting point at full bump.. so assuming in the photo the axle is at full bump the shock (which hasn't been mounted on the top yet is roughly at 90 or Perpendicular to the lower link..
Front Housing built out for mockup with FROR Keyed Steer Arms, ARP Studs, and TG Studiess hubs
are those the flat keyed hi steer arms? are you planning on heims above the arm or under? I have been eying those for my build to help frame clearance vs normal raised high steer.Quote from: lostbuckaroo on Sep 20, 2016, 09:14:31 AMFront Housing built out for mockup with FROR Keyed Steer Arms, ARP Studs, and TG Studiess hubs
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