Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild

[H8PVMNT]

Question:

While pulling the engine, I had to cut one of the water tubes attached to the underside other plenum. It's molded with curves. I can splice it with copper tubing and hose clamps, but I'd rather replace it.  Toyota dealer says some of those hoses have been discontinued. I will have to visit my dealership to find out.

Have any of you guys used aftermarket straight tubing? My concern is that the straight rubber tubing will kink trying to make the bends?

Any comments will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Gnarls.

I would call 22re Performance.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

I would call 22re Performance.

Yes... I think they have them!!

Cool!!!

Thanks,

Gnarls.

[emsvitil]

I've used plumber copper elbows and the brass pex elbows for coolant hose bends................

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

I've used plumber copper elbows and the brass pex elbows for coolant hose bends................

That will work! 

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

My power steering gear box is leaking.  Has anyone had success with a repair?  Or should I bite the bullet and buy one???    My engine rebuild piggy bank is almost empty.... I'm digging into both couches for any lost change!! 

Gnarls.

[:)bestgen4runner]

The hoses you speak of are still available

[Mudder]

Gnarly, are you talking about the metal tube that goes along the engine or the rubber flex hose? if the rubber flex hose I used straight hose with no problems in place of the molded one because I didn't have the money to replace it it with a molded one.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Gnarly, are you talking about the metal tube that goes along the engine or the rubber flex hose? if the rubber flex hose I used straight hose with no problems in place of the molded one because I didn't have the money to replace it it with a molded one.

Hey Mudder,

I had to replace the rusty old metal pipe.

The one I need I think 22RE Performance as it.

I've attached some photos.

Thanks,

Gnarls.

[H8PVMNT]

My power steering gear box is leaking.  Has anyone had success with a repair?  Or should I bite the bullet and buy one???    My engine rebuild piggy bank is almost empty.... I'm digging into both couches for any lost change!! 

Gnarls.

I thought they were supposed to leak.

Helipilot rebuilt one on his thread.  I would consider doing that or just trying to pull one from a wreck that doesn't leak yet.

[OTO Phil]

I bought a power steering gearbox rebuild kit from Toyota for less than $100.. Congress with all the seals and gaskets

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

I thought they were supposed to leak.

....

I would bet this steering gear box is 30 years old.

Geezzz.... I hate leaks!!!   Leaks are torture, like water-boarding!!

OK, I'll check out a rebuild kit.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

In my quest to look at eeking out little bits of 22RE "power", has anyone installed a Flex fan or the Electric fan kit for a pickup?

http://www.lceperformance.com/Electric-Fans-s/1381.htm

Do you like it?

Is it worth the cost?

Did you notice any difference in your butt dyno?

Any comments will be appreciated.

Gnarls.

[OTO Phil]

My butt dyno convinces me it's worth it to the point that every 22re owner i meet, I'm basically being them to buy a $20 fan from the junkyard and do the conversion.

I'm in-between permanent wiring solutions on it due to lack of time, so i have to hook mine up manually, however, I've only had to connect the fan about 4 times this year. 3 times for wheeling, and once when I was stuck in Portland traffic crossing the i5 bridge.
I have a $30 fan controller hooked up to it, and works great.

It's not ideal, connecting it manually, but there seems to be better response, and quieter cold starts because the engine isn't turning the fan.

Do it. I got my high speed fan from an 04 Honda civic. Best fan would be from a pt cruiser. $0.02

👊😎

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

My butt dyno convinces me it's worth it to the point that every 22re owner i meet, I'm basically being them to buy a $20 fan from the junkyard and do the conversion.

I'm in-between permanent wiring solutions on it due to lack of time, so i have to hook mine up manually, however, I've only had to connect the fan about 4 times this year. 3 times for wheeling, and once when I was stuck in Portland traffic crossing the i5 bridge.
I have a $30 fan controller hooked up to it, and works great.

It's not ideal, connecting it manually, but there seems to be better response, and quieter cold starts because the engine isn't turning the fan.

Do it. I got my high speed fan from an 04 Honda civic. Best fan would be from a pt cruiser. $0.02

👊😎

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

Hey excabswap,

OK, I'll check this out.  I have boneyards in Phoenix. I'll find out which one would have an electric fan?

Thanks,

Gnarls.

[emsvitil]

Buying a kit isn't worth it..............

But I use an electric fan......

 



Much cheaper to mix and match the parts and make your own 'kit'.


The only thing I've ever noticed was the idle drop when the fan kicks on.   

[OTO Phil]

Buying a kit isn't worth it..............

But I use an electric fan......

 



Much cheaper to mix and match the parts and make your own 'kit'.


The only thing I've ever noticed was the idle drop when the fan kicks on.   

I agree. Don't get a kit. Just find a 2 wire fan, and a temperature relay controller for worry free operation.

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

I did some very quick research...

The LCE fan kit specs the fan at 1585 CFM.

If the PT Cruiser is a good choice, the last year production was 2005. If I find 2005 in a boneyard, the fan will be 11 to 12 years old.  Is that a good idea?  Or should I look for a 1600 CFM fan that is from a newer vehicle?

Is this the kind of controller I will need?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10560/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710639487&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-60736883591:pla-171299431271&catargetid=230006180003464298&cadevice=c&gclid=CObmn9Gcx84CFQaQaQodiNkLYg


Thanks,

Gnarls.

[emsvitil]

I used a summit generic fan.

Biggest that would fit   (I'm thinking 16")


On slantsix.org,  various people say they get better cooling with multiple smaller fans rather than one large one (more radiator coverage probably) 

 

[H8PVMNT]

I did some very quick research...

The LCE fan kit specs the fan at 1585 CFM.

If the PT Cruiser is a good choice, the last year production was 2005. If I find 2005 in a boneyard, the fan will be 11 to 12 years old.  Is that a good idea?  Or should I look for a 1600 CFM fan that is from a newer vehicle?

Is this the kind of controller I will need?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10560/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710639487&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-60736883591:pla-171299431271&catargetid=230006180003464298&cadevice=c&gclid=CObmn9Gcx84CFQaQaQodiNkLYg


Thanks,

Gnarls.

If you find something that works, get two.  Then the first one will last forever because you have a spare.  That's the way it works .

For what it's worth, I tried an electric fan on my 3RZ and eventually swapped it back to a stock setup.  There was no perceivable difference in power for me. This is the 3RZ with 40 extra HP, so you may certainly find it worth your while on a 22re.

I found I didn't like the extra wiring and it wasn't that dependable.  Ended up fiddling with it on the side of the road a few times.  It just gave me one more thing that could kill my engine if it failed in the woods at low speed.

On the flip side it was cool to shut of the fan in creek crossings.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

....  There was no perceivable difference in power ...I found I didn't like the extra wiring and it wasn't that dependable.  Ended up fiddling with it on the side of the road a few times.  It just gave me one more thing that could kill my engine if it failed in the woods at low speed.

Well, the issue of reliability is worrisome.  If the electric fan quits working how long before you realize it and the coolant temp goes up too high?

There's another "power" issue.  The fan motors take power, which loads the alternator, which takes torque to spin.

Just looking at cost to decrease parasitic load, it may not be as cost effective.  A bigger throttle body may be better?

And, yes it would be very handy to turn of the fan when crossing some deep water I have done in the past!

Thanks for the feedback, that's the real world info I need.

Gnarls.

[H8PVMNT]

Well I'll tell you how it was for me. When I was moving down the road at any kind of speed at all I didn't even need to run the fan.  If I was under maybe 25 mph, then I could tell if the fan was on or off. Low speed or crawling you absolutely had to have the fan on.

If you rig it up right it's probably not too bad.  I just didn't have a great time with it.

I understand about the load on the alt but I doubt you would notice the load.  If anything I would guess it would be a wash.  I know some guys just love this mod though.  I think it's one of those small changes that when stacked with a bunch of other changes probably helps the 100 hp motor get a little elbow room. 

I have just kind of gone for stupid-proof dependability and I find the stock setup more simple.  I also ran the stock manifold, heaviest crank I could find, old style rods, dual timing chain and steel rockers though, so you'll have to take my feelings with a grain of salt .

[OTO Phil]

I did some very quick research...

The LCE fan kit specs the fan at 1585 CFM.

If the PT Cruiser is a good choice, the last year production was 2005. If I find 2005 in a boneyard, the fan will be 11 to 12 years old.  Is that a good idea?  Or should I look for a 1600 CFM fan that is from a newer vehicle?

Is this the kind of controller I will need?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10560/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710639487&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-60736883591:pla-171299431271&catargetid=230006180003464298&cadevice=c&gclid=CObmn9Gcx84CFQaQaQodiNkLYg


Thanks,

Gnarls.

Here's what I've got:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRY0/35879/01388.oap?year=1993&make=Toyota&model=Pickup&vi=1278008&ck=Search_01388_1278008_-1&pt=01388&ppt=C0331

I like it because I have it stabbed through my radiator right at the top where the coolant below the hose connection.
There's a small dashpot on it that you have to setup manually, but it's really simple and easy to do. Just get everything installed, and start up your motor cold. You could use a temp gun, but I just looked at my stock temp gauge. Once the motor was warmed up, I slowly turned the dashpot until the relay turned the fan on, and left it there. The fan stays off until the temp rises.

Another reason this is nice is because there's another input for your A/C compressor. I'm planning on connecting it to my 4x4 sensor so that whenever I'm in 4wd, the fan is forced on. I've never heard of anyone doing this before, but if anyone knows a reason not to connect it to the 4x4 light, lemme know.

[OTO Phil]

Here's a few options. Not sure what the difference is, but I'd get a controller with a probe instead of the one you found on jegs because then you don't have to get rid of your stock sensor, or figure out how to plumb in another sensor..
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Cooling+Fan+Controller/01388/C0331.oap?year=1993&make=Toyota&model=Pickup&vi=1278008

[emsvitil]

Here's a few options. Not sure what the difference is, but I'd get a controller with a probe instead of the one you found on jegs because then you don't have to get rid of your stock sensor, or figure out how to plumb in another sensor..
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Cooling+Fan+Controller/01388/C0331.oap?year=1993&make=Toyota&model=Pickup&vi=1278008

I use the $17.99 one...........  got it from JC Whitney years and years ago.......

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Here's what I've got:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRY0/35879/01388.oap?year=1993&make=Toyota&model=Pickup&vi=1278008&ck=Search_01388_1278008_-1&pt=01388&ppt=C0331

I like it because I have it stabbed through my radiator right at the top where the coolant below the hose connection.
There's a small dashpot on it that you have to setup manually, but it's really simple and easy to do. Just get everything installed, and start up your motor cold. You could use a temp gun, but I just looked at my stock temp gauge. Once the motor was warmed up, I slowly turned the dashpot until the relay turned the fan on, and left it there. The fan stays off until the temp rises.

Another reason this is nice is because there's another input for your A/C compressor. I'm planning on connecting it to my 4x4 sensor so that whenever I'm in 4wd, the fan is forced on. I've never heard of anyone doing this before, but if anyone knows a reason not to connect it to the 4x4 light, lemme know.

Hey excabswap,

I see why you like it.  The $99 price would ding my Toy piggy bank as I add up the cost/benefit number.

Hooking the fan to your 4-wheel drive light... as H8PVMNH has pointed out, being able to turn off the fan if you are doing a deep water crossing would be handy.  Here in AZ I have crossed water at least a dozen times and once when my '86 Long Bed actually started to float!!... talk about major anal pucker! 

If I go with an electric fan set up, and since we are discussing this modification, and because I toasted my engine by running out of coolant, I'm going to look into a warning buzzer to alert me when the engine temperature goes above 2XX or so.  In all my trucks, I always installed AutoMeter mechanical oil pressure, mechanical water temp gauge, and a ammeter.... but if I'm NOT looking at them....?? 

I haven't installed any aftermarket gauges yet in this truck because I wanted to keep the truck as original as possible, but I'm considering it.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

UPDATE:  August 18, 2016:  Transmission input shaft

Today I started to work on my tanny/t-case and discovered another issue.  The tip of the input shaft is worn.  I mic’d it at .475” at the base and where the worn area is it’s .466” or about .011” wear.

Obviously the pilot bearing at some point in time (prior to my ownership) froze up and wore a groove in the tip of the shaft.

Sooo.. I should replace the input shaft… more work, more delay, more bite out of my “now-gone-negative-rebuild-budget”. 

Hey Tay85Runner  how much do you want for that input shaft that you didn’t order? 

Gnarls.

[emsvitil]

I've heard of using JB weld to fix the input shaft...........

Or goto a hobby shop and get some .475 OD brass tubing and turn down the shaft to accept the tubing.......

[emsvitil]

It's a metric bearing, so it's ID is 12mm

or

.472441"

so you need 12mm tubing   (15/32 is .46875)



BTW,   I've had brass radiators crack too.    But it's always been on a solder seem which is easy to fix.

[H8PVMNT]

I'd probably weld it in the worn area and file it down to match the remaining, unworn high spots.  Should be able to get pretty close with a nice flat file.  Then test fit inn a loose pilot bearing until your satisfied with the fit.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Thank you guys for your input.

Well, I'm going to use some liquid steel and see if I can fill in the groove and sand it down smooth.

I don't have the budget right now to replace the input shaft.  The tranny has to come apart to replace the input shaft.  A complete rebuild would be about $800. 

Fortunately, the tip of the shaft that inserts inside the pilot bearing doesn't get much force and the pilot bearing doesn't spin that much... only when the clutch is disengaged from the pressure plate.

Gnarls.