Author Topic: Scott Wilson's 1988 4Runner Build, Version 2.0  (Read 33167 times)

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swilson

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I carefully cut the cable liners to the desired length, being careful not to cut the steel cable inside.  Once you cut through the plastic liner crimped inside the fitting at the end of the cable, you can remove the steel liner.  Its a spiral liner, so you can just unscrew it from the fitting.  After you trim back the plastic from the steel liner, on the lines you already cut to length, you can screw/push on the fittings.  Now they're ready to mount in the crossmember.

I cut the factory crossmember to accept a 2nd cable.  I had intended to put a clip on both lines, but the inside line fit extremely tight and cannot come out without first removing the line with the clip.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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Finally I cut the threaded end off of the 1988 cable, so I can still adjust the tension the way the factory designed it.  I drilled out a couple fine thread bolts and used them to attach my two new lines to the one old line.  Parking brakes are functional!   :thumbs:
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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I plan to use the stock air box for my referee appointment, and the one that came with my engine was much too tall to fit under the hood.  Even after removing the battery tray, I still had to cut 2" out of the box. 

These were the part numbers that worked out for my radiator hoses... see photo.  The top one was the upper hose from the 2000 4Runner my 3RZ came from.  The lower was from a T100.  They both got shortened to fit better, but had the bends I needed.

I had previously had a friend machine out the center of the stock PS pulley to fit the TC pump.  On closer inspection, I couldn't slide it on deep enough to get it inline with the other pulleys.  I swapped it for this aluminum pulley, which is also smaller, so hopefully it keeps pressure up at lower RPMs.

I made a mount for the PS reservoir which I welded to the drivers strut tower.  This let me keep the mounting point high, and keep the feed line to the pump short.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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The radiator I ordered back when I started this project.  I don't remember the details about it, other than it was supposed to have more rows, was aluminum, and was for the 3VZE.  The fan I used was a Flexalite model 123. I haven't heard it run yet, but the specs were good, and it's not very deep.   I modified the provided brackets to make it work for me.

Below the fan I had room to put a heat-sink style PS cooler.  I also added in a magnetic filter.  After having a brand new box in my FJ40 take a crap and put metal shavings through my entire system, I will always have a filter now.  They warrantied the box, but not my pump, or my hydroboost brakes.   :tantrum:
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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I previously planned to do one exhaust setup for the referee, then redo it after passing, so get my cats on the driver's side.  Once I dug in on the exhaust I decided I could make it work with the cats on the passenger side.  I took the heat shields I got my the 2000 4Runner I took my motor from and mounted them under the passenger side floor.  I used the factory exhaust from that same 4Runner all the way past the cats.  I just cut it on bandsaw right after each cat so I could change the angle on them a bit to work within the space I had.  I can't imagine I'll get any grief from the referee, since I was careful to keep the distances factory, and just changed the angles a bit.  I had to put a pretty big angle on that last flange, just past the 2nd O2 sensor though.

From there I created a new exhaust using some mandrel U-bends I had, some straight pipe, a Magnaflow muffler I picked up at the Land Cruiser Swap Meet 2 years ago, and reusing Toyota factory exhaust hangers.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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Since the ORI's weren't charged yet, the front axle was still sitting at full stuff as I built the exhaust.  The front driveshaft is about 1/8" off the first cat, and the 2nd cat gets pretty tight to both the 3link mount and the Xfer case crossmember.  But I can fit my fingers in the gap on both of those locations.  I plan to put a heat shield on the poly bushing for the xfer case crossmember near that last cat.

I charged the ORI's tonight.  It's great seeing the 4Runner sitting almost level.  Though, I expect I'll be sending the Alcan's back to get re-arched.  The rear is lower than I would like, and next year I'll probably build a swing out rack for the rear.  I hadn't counted on frenching the spring hanger into the frame like I did when I placed the order, and lost some height because of that change.

I'm basically ready to drive it, except that the engine still isn't running.  Chuck who was helping me finish the wiring had to unexpectedly leave town for a week or two, so I'm scrambling to find help.  I do really well at wiring new circuits, and wired my whole FJ40 from scratch, but I have the worst time trying to trouble shoot factory wiring though!
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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Now...  DOES ANYONE HAVE ONE OF THESE LAYING AROUND?!   :help: :help: :help:

This is one of the coolant T's from my 88 3.0 V6 4Runner with a rear heater.  It's located at the firewall, near the top of the back of the motor.  Might be the same with a 4cyl with rear heater, IDK.  Might be the same from 1984-1989.  What I've found is that the newer models have much smaller diameter lines running to the rear heater.  I'm having a horrible time finding one of these.  They're not available from Toyota and my favorite wreck yard has none.

Please get a hold of me if you have one (that's not totally corroded out) that you'll sell me. Email  scottwilson143 at gmail  or private message.  Thanks!   :usa:

Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

emsvitil

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Take a look at pex brass fittings.    You may be able to make one with a soldering torch and various fittings.
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

liveoak

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Scott, I went through my parts bucket from my 85 (I deleted my rear heat) and found this. A piece similar to yours that I hacked apart for some reason but also had a valve and then I found a tee with the same dimensions as yours (without the sweep). Your welcome to it if it works for you.
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

swilson [OP]

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Thanks guys.  Gnob had the exact one I needed and he's shipping it to me. 

How did we survive before the internet? Lol
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

Ritchie

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What size pulley are you running on the PS pump? I also have a 3RZ and had to switch mine to a 4.5". Originally I had a 5.375" and it was whining at low speeds while turning.
The build is looking good.



'02 Prerunner, ARB F/R w/5.29's, 4WU 3 link, Diamonds F/R, Fox shocks F/R, Shrockworks front bumper, self made rear bumper, WARN M8000S, Inchworm Lefty, Deaver 8 pack, self made sliders that hold air & a bunch of other stuff.

swilson [OP]

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Oh, good... mine is 4.5"  Thanks!
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

Ritchie

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Scott,
What is your caster and wheel base set at?
Also, to rid of the OEM air intake pieces. I have an ABS part that matches the OEM diameter from the air box to the TB. Much cleaner and CARB certified.

Here is the best pic I have at the moment. It's the piece between the TB and the flex tubing I bought @ NAPA.



'02 Prerunner, ARB F/R w/5.29's, 4WU 3 link, Diamonds F/R, Fox shocks F/R, Shrockworks front bumper, self made rear bumper, WARN M8000S, Inchworm Lefty, Deaver 8 pack, self made sliders that hold air & a bunch of other stuff.

swilson [OP]

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 :hahaha::hahaha::hahaha::hahaha::hahaha::hahaha:

With Jeff's help... The 3RZ STARTED TONIGHT!!  Woo hoo!

We only ran it less than 30 sec, but it sounded great! 

Still more wiring to do.  No CEL, oil, or battery charging warning lights. 
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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Scott,
What is your caster and wheel base set at?
Also, to rid of the OEM air intake pieces. I have an ABS part that matches the OEM diameter from the air box to the TB. Much cleaner and CARB certified.


I think it was 6.  I set it to whatever Brian said to on the instructions.  I'll have to check on the wheelbase.

I want to put my 2nd battery where the air box is sitting.  My plan is that after the referee, I'll switch to the K&N.  I'll modify it so that it's shorter, but it'll get me the E.O. Number I need for smog checks.  I don't think a smog tech will notice I modified the aftermarket intake.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

FRANKENYOTA91

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Just read thru the whole thread. Very nice work. Gives me some more ideas for my runner. Keep it up.
85 toy double extended cab pos wheeler bobby longs, welded front and rear, dual cases
89 4runner sas,  duals, the usual
81 toyota long box project
83 short box project
2001 Cummins 6 speed tow rig

swilson [OP]

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Went to put the hood on and found the aluminum radiator (which I had ordered to fit the stock '88 V6 4Runner body) sat 3/4" too high for the hood to close!  Doh!  Luckily I was able to drill new holes in the flange to mount it lower.  Chased down some seeping PS fittings while I was there.

Installed the engine fan controller.  Really nice unit that is variable, so it comes on really low and ramps up as needed.
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm

Had to add some steel to the tranny tunnel since the opening for the auto tranny was so big and weird shaped.  Then I got the shifter boots installed.  Got the trim to fit around the boots, but it's not fastened down yet. 

Mounted the emissions box using a gas tank strap and some delrin blocks to space it off the fender, so that the hood will close.

A friend came over and helped finish off the wiring... and tonight I piled the family in and went for a test drive!  Well after first trying to go on a test drive and finding I had the lines to the hydro assist crossed! Doh!  Easy fix and THEN we went on our test drive!

Exhaust sounds good...  not stock, but not nasty.  Engine had nice power.  Steering was twitchy.... I think it's a bit over-powered.  Once I got up to 40 MPH or so I got a check engine light.  Pulled codes for VSS and MAF.  Shouldn't be too hard to sort out, but won't have time until Wednesday night.   Ref appointment is set for Friday morning... wish me luck!

I'm feeling pretty good right now knowing that even if the ref is a pain in my ass, I should still make it to Rubithon!
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

Ritchie

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Looking good.
If you need a 5.375" PS pulley, I'll dig it up and send your way. That may assist with your steering twitch.

Nice work.
'02 Prerunner, ARB F/R w/5.29's, 4WU 3 link, Diamonds F/R, Fox shocks F/R, Shrockworks front bumper, self made rear bumper, WARN M8000S, Inchworm Lefty, Deaver 8 pack, self made sliders that hold air & a bunch of other stuff.

swilson [OP]

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Looking good.
If you need a 5.375" PS pulley, I'll dig it up and send your way. That may assist with your steering twitch.

Nice work.

I'll keep that in mind thanks!  I need to drive it some more and see if it's something I can get used to.

Did more research on my engine code... it's not MAF, it's a 'out of range' for the front O2 sensor.  Hopefully I new sensor clears that one up.  And hopefully it's just a missed wire for the VSS and not a bad sending unit.


Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

EASYRYDERDANGER

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I like the stock intake box look!

:)bestgen4runner

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I like the stock intake box look!
You want a 3rz now don't You.  :rofl2:
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

liveoak

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Installed the engine fan controller.  Really nice unit that is variable, so it comes on really low and ramps up as needed.
http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm

I really like the looks of that fan controller. A friend of mine has fried 2 of the flex-a-lite fan control modules but this dc control unit looks to be a better design. the tracers on the flex-a-lite circuit board are way too thin. let us know how it holds up
« Last Edit: May 22, 2018, 12:11:17 PM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

emsvitil

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I really like the looks of that fan controller. A friend of mine has fried 2 of the flex-a-lite fan control modules but this dc control unit looks to be a better design. the tracers on the flex-a-lite circuit board are way too thin. let us know how it holds up

Have the fan controllers control a relay.

Don't run full power thru them and they won't burn up.
Ed
SoCal
86 SR5 XtraCab
22RE  W56B
31x10.50R15

liveoak

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the flex-a-lite module i'm talking about has on board relays and is designed/advertised as a stand alone
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

swilson [OP]

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My first day driving it, the engine seemed to be idling great.  Now I'm having issues.  Replaced the O2 sensor and haven't seen that code reappear.  Corrected the VSS wiring and haven't seen that code reappear.  Then I got two P0441 codes and think I have those corrected tonight by fixing some incorrectly routed hoses to the EVAP box.

However yesterday I started getting idle problems once it warms up.  When I'm in motion and throw in the clutch the RPMs hunt around.  About ever 3 seconds it revs by itself.  Then once I come to a stop it maintains a steady idle, but it's at 1800 RPM  (measured by computer... the tach (with the 10k mod) shows 1200 RPM).  Since it only happens when I'm in motion, I'm guessing I definitely have the correct VSS signal now.

I got advice that it was the idle/air control valve on the throttle body.  Swapped in a different throttle body (with it's own idle control valve) tonight, but it made no change.

I'm open to suggestions on where to look next.  I've got one more day to try to fix it before I have to reschedule the ref appointment again.   :hammer:
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

liveoak

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what happens if you disconnect the vss? does the idle and drivability return to normal? you got the vss signal from the gauge cluster, correct? could you have a vacuum leak? here's a pic of the egr hose diagram
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

swilson [OP]

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Checked for vacuum leaks, found none.  Vacuum houses are routed just like in the photo.  I've swapped the throttle body with idle control valve, MAF, and coolant temp sensor with known-good parts. They had no effect on the idle problem.

I didn't disconnect the VSS because I hooked up a good scanner to the ECU and verified the computer is getting a good VSS signal.  It was only 2 mph off at 45 mph

Not getting any check engine lights.  I expect the ref to fail me in the morning because it won't idle correctly, but I'm going anyway to see if they find any other issues.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

redneckcustoms13

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Fingers crossed.
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

jimbo74

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great looking truck!

interested to hear the results too
:usa:

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swilson [OP]

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My ref appointment wasn't a total waste of time.  I learned I passed the visual inspection, so I'm grateful for that.  I've heard too many horror stories of refs that wanted to see the gas tank on the driver's side bc thats how it was done on the vehicle the donor motor came from, or ones that decided you cat was 1" too far/close down the line and want you to re-do it.

I hadn't put enough miles on it since working on it the night before, so my monitors hadn't set.  That and the high-idle causes the engine to get not (not beyond what the engine fan & radiator can handle, but the ref said it was overheating, so he decided not to even run the smog test.  His suggestion was an air bubble was in the coolant lines causing a bad temp reading, therefore causing the computer to mess up the idle.  I'm pretty sure that's not the case, but I'll look into it. 

I'm not any closer to solving this idle issue and will have limited time to work on it this next week. 

I also figured out why I wasn't liking the steering.  Because the tires were new it was easy to see that only the center of the tire had touched pavement.  The tire shop had left them at 35 psi after they balanced them.  I put them down to 28 and it rides much safer... that may be a bit high as well.  I'll keep adjusting until the entire width of the tire is on the pavement. 
« Last Edit: May 28, 2018, 10:18:56 AM by swilson »
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

 
 
 
 
 

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