Author Topic: Scott Wilson's 1988 4Runner Build, Version 2.0  (Read 33166 times)

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:)bestgen4runner

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I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

swilson [OP]

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I'm not getting nearly as much done as I want to lately.  I did get most of the interior and most of the dash back together.  After several failed attempts to patch up my badly cracked stock dash using a vinyl repair kit, I ended up finding a dash cap on Ebay.  I ground down the high spots around the cracks, then put this cap over the dash with the supplied adhesive around the edges and vent holes.  The finish product looks pretty clean.  Still need to spray dye it gray.

I started putting the 4x4Labs rear bumper kit together.  I would have finished it by now, except half way trough I'm suddenly having major welder issues.  I'd be willing to bet it'll end up being a contaminated tank of shielding gas, but right now both the tank and welder are at the shop getting inspected.  Very frustrating.

I love the design on this rear bumper.  Very strong, very low profile.  Very slick how the side protection mounting point is using one of the bolts used for the main bumper mounting.  (I'll be sure to get a photo of that when I get the bumper finished)  The kit still requires some careful trimming to get the side panels lining up nicely with the main bumper, so most people will want to order it pre-welded from 4x4Labs.  Since I used a 2" body lift I had to hack up the mounts that slide in the frame rail and weld them up at my new body height.  That was my motivation for getting the DIY version... since it knew it wasn't going to be a straight bolt on deal.  Welding the nuts to the bumper mounts is a must-do... makes life simple, not having to get your wrench down your frame tube each time you're installing or removing it.

Hopefully my welder is working again soon and I can finish off this bumper this week.


« Last Edit: Mar 05, 2018, 09:53:21 PM by swilson »
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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Never got to the bottom of exactly what the issue with my welder was.  I've switched to a new cylinder of gas, but still from the same shop.  Still occasionally have a porous weld for no good reason.  I plan to get another cylinder from a larger gas supplier and see if that solves my woes.  Today it was working well enough I finished the rear bumper.

I don't plan to build a swing-out for this year, but it's something I imagine I'll do in the future.   I went ahead and welded in two spindles... planning ahead.  This way when I build the swing outs I don't have to have the bumper powder coated again.  I took a close up of how the mounting point for the side-protection ties into one of the main mounting bolts for the bumper.  Slick design.   Thanks Luke.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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Mounted up the All Pro front bumper this weekend.  Because of the custom frame it was far from a bolt on job.  I ended up fabricating a 1/4" plate to mate to the bumper, then added that to the 4Runner frame.  Had to trim the top plates of the bumper to clear the grill because my frame sits over 1" higher than a stock frame in front.  Made the plate factory-style with captured nuts.  Bumper has 8, 1/2" bolts, plus two body mount bolts holding it to the frame... plus the frame is twice as thick as the factory.  I think it'll hold up.

Didn't like the AP shackle mounts.  They didn't look like they'd take a side load very well, and hung down unnecessarily.  I cut them away.  I'll just pull from the winch cable, or a soft strap around the round tube on the bottom of the bumper.  It's finally got a face!
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

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looks badass Scott! I must know, whats with the cut in the fender?
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

Trailer Build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103261

2005 Dodge Durango Limited 5.7L Hemi Wife's Daily

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swilson [OP]

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I'm going to flare the stock fenders to cover the tires a little better.  I plan to drive this on the road, so I'm hoping to attract less attention from CHP.

Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

wing nut

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 :bowdown: Awesome build man! Loving the fab skills. So with the use of the ori struts, was there no reason to install the 4wu bumpstops? Will you end up just using the ori bumps? Keep up the awesome work!

swilson [OP]

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:bowdown: Awesome build man! Loving the fab skills. So with the use of the ori struts, was there no reason to install the 4wu bumpstops? Will you end up just using the ori bumps? Keep up the awesome work!

Thanks for the support!

I won't know for sure until it's on the trail.  I think the poly bumps may still be in play when one wheel is stuffed and the other is at full droop.  As far as on-road or higher speed bumps, it'll just be hitting the built in ORI bumps.  If it turns out the poly bumps aren't making contact at all, I'll space them down.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

wing nut

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Anymore pics or progress? I am loving this build!

swilson [OP]

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Thanks!

This week I set the pinion angle on the rear axle, welded in the spring perches, and installed the rear driveshaft.  Then I went about mounting the rear shocks.  I decided to make the top mount with multiple mounting options, and tucked it up as high as I could, taking advantage of the body lift again.  For the lower shock mounts I wanted them on the back side of the axle tube and reasonably indestructible. 

Had these shocks on the top shelf in the garage when the house burned down.  They definitely saw some smoke and heat.  Probably won't be running these, but they worked for getting my mounts setup.
« Last Edit: Mar 26, 2018, 11:02:09 PM by swilson »
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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I put a couple of new tools to work too.  Awhile back I bought the SWAG band saw table which converts a hand held Milwakee bandsaw into a stationary tool.  I LOVE THIS TOOL.  I've never had a band saw in my shop before.  It was great the other week cutting the super thick spindles to length for the rear bumper swing-outs.  This week I was using it to slice up some tubing to add some strength back into the top of my shock mount.  I imagine once I get moved home I'll keep an eye out for a good deal on a full size bandsaw.

I also got these plasma stencils from 911 Motorsports.  These are a must have if you have a plasma cutter.  They take into consideration the diameter of the tip on your plasma torch so you can quickly cut out accurate circles and squares.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

84 yota dude

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Schweet! Handy looking tools and clean work.

Is that a new marlin crawler flexible pan hard strap? Looks really light weight! hahaha

swilson [OP]

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Got the dash installed with the new cap on it, but forgot to take a photo.  One painful lesson learned is that you should have your vents installed when you glue the cap down.  I was stuck with using a Dremmel to open up the holes in the cap so that I could get them reinstalled.  Not a big deal, but it would have looked cleaner without the extra grinding.  I also can't find a spray dye that matches the factory gray, so I'm leaving it black.

Went to make brake lines for the rear axle, but that turned into hours of garage cleaning, since I couldn't find my brake fittings.  Not necessarily a bad thing.  I eventually found them, but didn't have enough to do the job, so I moved on to the gas tank.  I got the parking brake cable reinstalled neatly out of the way of the tank, but still haven't formed a game plan for marrying the old cable with the two new cables coming out of the FROR rear brake setup.

I did figure out fuel lines though.  I used front half of the line from the 2000 4Runner that mated up to the 3RZ, and the back half of my 1988 line that mated to my gas tank.  I carefully straightened them and then bent them into the shape I wanted.  Reusing factory lines isn't the prettiest, but the price sure is right.  I got them to meet at the factory union, so it's tidy.  I reused some factory mounts and ran the fuel line and my rear brake line on top of the passenger side frame rail.  I had to cross over the exhaust eventually... since my 88 was designed with the exhaust running down the drivers side and the 3rz was designed with the exhaust running down the passenger side.  I chose to do it at the highest point, under the 4Runner rear seats, to have the most distance to the exhaust.  It's also run behind a factory exhaust heat shield and I also ordered a Thermaflect sleeve from Heatshield Products to wrap that section of exhaust line.

Since I had already raised the crossmember behind the Xfer case to take advantage of the body lift, I needed to do the same for the rear gas tank mount.  I sliced 2" out of it and welded it back together.  Ran into a clearance issue where the gas tank wanted to be where the wider spring hanger was that I frenched into the frame.  Just required a quick trim of the spring hanger.
« Last Edit: Apr 01, 2018, 10:53:07 PM by swilson »
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

redneckcustoms13

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I'd like to see how you ran that exhaust.
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

swilson [OP]

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You'll have to keep waiting. I haven't done it yet.  I'm expecting to do it twice. Once to pass the ref, and again to make it work with a front drive shaft.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

84 yota dude

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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/shw-hvp111

I hear this paint is a pretty close match.

liveoak

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SEM makes practically an exact match to toyota gray I just can't remember which one it is . I think either warm gray , medium gray or graphite. As far as I'm concerned SEM is the best. With any plastic/vinyl spray you should always use an adhesion promoter (primer) for the best finish. https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39863-Plastic-Adhesion-Promoter/dp/B007VTSRZ8/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522689729&sr=1-10&keywords=sem+primer
« Last Edit: Apr 02, 2018, 10:40:19 AM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

redneckcustoms13

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I used sem on my 84 and it was as near to perfect as you could ask for.
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

swilson [OP]

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Thanks for the input.  I ordered both warm gray and medium gray... and primer.   I'll let you know which one matched.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

liveoak

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sorry scott, I just added graphite to that list.
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

redneckcustoms13

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I want to say it was medium. That sticks out in my mind
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

THK Matt

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SEM is an awesome product line, we use here in the body shop
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

Trailer Build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103261

2005 Dodge Durango Limited 5.7L Hemi Wife's Daily

Instagram @ taytershubby13

Capra

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Awesome build! I'm gonna be running the exact same bumper setup. How long did it take to get the 4x4labs rear? I ordered mine about a month ago and i'm patiently waiting :hammerhead:
« Last Edit: Apr 02, 2018, 08:59:34 PM by Capra »

swilson [OP]

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Must have been in stock when I ordered, I got it right away.  Might have helped that I was getting the DIY version.

Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

Capra

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Damn, I also ordered the DIY kit. Guess I'l keep crossing my fingers. Excellent work though man! I'll be coming back to this thread for inspiration frequently :biggthumpup:

swilson [OP]

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Ah ok. I bought mine nearly a year ago. It sat on my garage floor for a long time.
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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Brakes are now plumbed 100%.  I went to bleed them, but my fluid evacuator is MIA... I think it probably was damaged in the fire and was throw away.  Amazon is bringing a new one.  I had such great success with the electric line locks on my last rig, I had to use them again.  This time I used 3, one front, and the other two for the rear... separating left and right.  This way I'll be able to lock each rear tire independently to help me around a tight corner.   Can't wait to see how it works out.

Still wrapping my head around the parking brake cables.  I've scrapped my previous idea.  My new plan is to keep the '88 cable all way to the lever, just ahead of the fuel tank.  And from the lever back use the cables that came with the newer rear brakes... just modifying the cable length to meet my needs.  We'll see how it comes out in a week or two.

My buddy Chuck Milligan has been over helping me with the motor.  He finished up the 3RZ computer wiring and today we got into fixing up the engine bay.  He ran some lines along the firewall for fuel return and vapor, so we could hook use the '88 return lines located on the passenger side.  I used some nutserts to secure the 3RZ wiring boot to the firewall.  He also told me I'm better off using the 2000 cruise control module, so I ditched the '88 throttle cable and vacuum cruise control module, and installed the cables and module from the 2000 3RZ.  He said we'd need to get the cruise module to go with the 3RZ cruise, but that he's wired them up before successfully.  :thumbs:  I needed some more room to fit the big ol' 3RZ air box, so I used some nutserts to move the '88 fuse block over a 2.5".  We're getting very near trying to start it for the first time.  Can't wait!
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

swilson [OP]

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No luck on the spray dyes.  Warm gray, medium gray, and graphite were all too light.  Anyone still have a can on their shelf of a good match to 1988 gray interior?
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

joeyf

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This is the hard top and the washer is what I painted to try and match the color the best I could. Donít remember what I used but the two in the pic are the only gray I have in my shelf of paints.





swilson [OP]

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Bled the brakes and clutch lines.  Found a couple fittings that leaked and needed to be tightened, but no drama.

I got the AC ready to be charged.  Started with a new receiver-drier.  Since the 3VZE AC hoses wouldn't bolt up to the 3RZ compressor, I got the top of a 3VZE style compressor to bolt onto my compressor.  Problem solved.

I finished up my parking brakes.  From the parking brake drums, I used the 5th 4Runner cables and just needed to create mounting points on my rear axle.  The two cables meet at the passenger side leaf spring and between the gas tank and frame, like the 1988 4Runner's single cable used to. 
« Last Edit: Apr 26, 2018, 09:47:33 AM by swilson »
Scott Wilson - TLCA #5261
1966 FJ40 [sold] - Click for Build-up thread
1988 3RZ 4Runner

 
 
 
 
 

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