Author Topic: (rims) which witch??  (Read 2441 times)

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300k

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(rims) which witch??
« on: Mar 30, 2016, 10:50:19 PM »
I need some wheels! I'm thinking the bald all terrains that resemble drag slicks must be chopping the performance offroad. The problem with putting new tires on, is that the rims are undesirable. They are Tacoma 16in rims. currently I am looking at the pro comp rock crawler steel wheels, and I just need some info on what you guys are running. (32s and 33s on 15 inch rims only, please!)

I hear that the Toyota bolt pattern on the 1985 pickup is 6 on 5.5 (I will double check mine tomorrow when it isn't dark and cold out.)
I want 15s
I'm thinking either 32'' or 33''
and I can't decide between 8 or 10 inches wide. I think anything smaller is better for the beat up lil' 22r.
what works for back spacing and offset? currently I have the previous owners 2(?) inch spacers on those stock taco rims

the truck is practically stock, no gearing, no (aftermarket) tcase, no locker.
it's fully mall crawlered out with a stiff, non flexy lift and body lift (previous owners work)
« Last Edit: Jul 01, 2016, 09:24:09 PM by 300,000 »
Keep it TOYOTA!

In the past years, I used to get a lot of calls from Jeep owners wanting to go slow like the Toy trucks.

jimbo74

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Re: (rims) which witch??
« Reply #1 on: Mar 30, 2016, 10:56:06 PM »
if you are only going with 32 or 33s, then I would go with 8s......


heck, even with 35s, I would still go 8s.... unless the tires I was using were approaching 14.5" wide, then 10s might happen


but for jsut about anything else, 8s is the way to go
:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

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300k [OP]

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Re: (rims) which witch??
« Reply #2 on: Mar 31, 2016, 12:13:29 AM »
I would still go 8s.... unless the tires I was using were approaching 14.5" wide, then 10s might happen


but for jsut about anything else, 8s is the way to go

I figured as such. Only reason i could think to get 10s was for sand, which is everywhere here, however 2 inches or rim width wont make it glide any easier.

What about backspacing and offset? Does it REALLY matter? Obviously you wouldn't want ultra concave or convex rims, but people use rims off chevys, right?

Thanks for the info!
Keep it TOYOTA!

In the past years, I used to get a lot of calls from Jeep owners wanting to go slow like the Toy trucks.

redneckcustoms13

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Re: (rims) which witch??
« Reply #3 on: Apr 01, 2016, 12:25:27 PM »
My input is basically irrelevant here. I run a 12-14 wide on everything. My theory... the wider the footprint the more it pulls. If your sticking with 32s or smaller in an 11.50 or 10.50 width go with an 8 so you don't have trouble with stressing sidewalls and blowing the beads
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
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H8PVMNT

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Re: (rims) which witch??
« Reply #4 on: Apr 01, 2016, 01:07:59 PM »
I like 8" wheels in general for anything up to a 12.50.  I loose very few beads over the years. I think 10" would be fine too but they will stick out a bit more.  I think most of us running 15s have 3.75" backspacing.

I have noticed that chrome looses beads easier than painted wheels.
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kneedownnate

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Re: (rims) which witch??
« Reply #5 on: Apr 02, 2016, 11:18:31 AM »
I have noticed that chrome looses beads easier than painted wheels.

:yesnod:  we constantly have people come in with slow leaks due to chrome wheels degrading.  Chrome isn't a complete seal and allows moisture to eventually seep in under it and cause corrosion.
RIP KYOTA

You can go through life being scared of the possible, or you can have a little fun and tease the inevitable.

Give a man venison, he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to hunt Blacktail, he'll be frustrated for life!

jimbo74

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Re: (rims) which witch??
« Reply #6 on: Apr 02, 2016, 11:34:27 AM »
:yesnod:  we constantly have people come in with slow leaks due to chrome wheels degrading.  Chrome isn't a complete seal and allows moisture to eventually seep in under it and cause corrosion.

Yes, this happened quite a bit when I worked @ America's tire Company and wheel works....

Wire wheels and

:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

kneedownnate

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Re: (rims) which witch??
« Reply #7 on: Apr 02, 2016, 01:11:02 PM »
Sure, but it's just a temporary bandaid
RIP KYOTA

You can go through life being scared of the possible, or you can have a little fun and tease the inevitable.

Give a man venison, he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to hunt Blacktail, he'll be frustrated for life!

liveoak

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Re: (rims) which witch??
« Reply #8 on: Apr 02, 2016, 02:46:56 PM »
I am running 15x7 with 33x10.5 and like the look and Performance.  I would go to 15x8 if I was running 33x12.5 or larger.(up to 37). for a stock toyota with stock gearing 32x11.5 or 31x10.5 on 15x7 is a great combination.
 
« Last Edit: Apr 02, 2016, 02:57:38 PM by liveoak »
my 3rz swap. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97722.0

Let me start off with a basket of chips

blackdiamond

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Re: (rims) which witch??
« Reply #9 on: Apr 02, 2016, 08:08:56 PM »
I wouldn't exceed a 32x11.50 without changing your differential gears. I ran 32x11.50 on 8 inch wheels and they did fine on my 85 truck. 33s went on and I did the diffs soon after.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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