Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
1
New Member Check-In! / Re: Toyota brake job
« Last post by fireitup on Today at 09:14:29 AM »
What type of truck do you have?

I've never done it before but looked into it once.  Yeah you have to pull the hub do get the brake disc off.

Do you have a FSM?

If you need a diagram for putting things back together.. From my 83 FSM:



As for the gunk that looks like CV grease to me.  Not sure if it's supposed to be all over the inside of the hub like that, as I've never broken into one, but my gut tells me no.  Someone on where who has should be able to chime in though...
2
Transmission/Clutch / Re: More W-56 Issues, rebuild or get rebuilt
« Last post by jbramble24 on Today at 07:10:31 AM »
The driveshaft is new and balanced. Tatton's custom driveshafts. He sells them through eBay. I bought one after having my old one balanced and replaced the u-joints twice. I think the shop was balancing it with the slip joint fully compressed. It had been run I don't know how many miles with it out of phase. Wasn't noticeable until I replaced the u-joints but it wore out the slip joint where it rides, not fully compressed.

So I think I still have the vibration when in 4 hi without the rear shaft. It's hard to tell since I doubt the front shaft is very well balanced. It gets loud around 60.

The rear diff is a new marlin one. Had a bad pinion bearing in the original. Seriously, I've gone through almost this whole truck.

I guess I'll just run it until something breaks!
3
Axle/Differential/Steering / Re: Rebuilding Front Axle on 85 4x4 Pickup
« Last post by liveoak on Today at 07:00:02 AM »
It is totally worth it to buy a factory service manual. I could not imagine working on my truck without it. Use the chiltons manual to help start a camp fire. http://www.themotorbookstore.com/1985-toyota-truck-4runner-oem-repair-manual.html
4
hey i cant thank you enough buddy....... also could you throw me a couple measurements off of your front mount i seen some pics and it looks great. why doesnt anyone use the vw factory motor mount block ...... the aluminium one with the 2 bolts?

did you wire everything yourself? i found someone to make me a harness but i have to mail him both harnesses and itll be almost 1500$ to make a stand alone system with the malone tune so i was just wondering what your thoughts are on that?
I had thought about sending my harness to that guy also. I saved myself the $1500 and I'm thankful everyday I did it myself. It was stupid simple. In one of my video logs on YouTube I show exactly how many wires it takes to run. I wired it myself with a Hanes manual it was super easy once I understood how the VW system worked.

The VW engine mount is very large and sticks out to far it makes fitting a radiator and fan difficult.

I have to make another engine mount for a friend who is doing the same swap I did right now so when I get his mount made I'll put together some drawings and measurements.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

5
Transmission/Clutch / Re: More W-56 Issues, rebuild or get rebuilt
« Last post by Gnarly4X on Today at 06:46:04 AM »
....It sure does seem like the rear driveshaft but it is brand new.


So, the U-joints are new?  Was it balanced?

Gnarls.
6
I got a flatter footprint at about the mid 20s psi range but still a pretty round tread face.  30-35 psi kept me totally on the center treads.  These tires want to be pretty round on an 8" wheel. I think they need to be on 10".  Your duratracs are pretty flat on a 71x9 aren't they?

yeah my Duratracs are pretty flat across the tread on the 17"x9" wheels they are on.
7
Transmission/Clutch / Re: More W-56 Issues, rebuild or get rebuilt
« Last post by Gnarly4X on Today at 06:33:27 AM »
Geezzz.. it sounds like have analyzed the crap out things!  After all that I would be really frustrated!  I hate vibrations!

So you know when you remove the rear drive shaft, and drive with the front axles engaged, 4-wheel high, you will get some interesting "power steer".  That would be the next step that I would do to see if it eliminates the rear drive shaft.  That may not necessarily eliminate the rear diff, ring & pinion?

Gnarls.
8
Just finished modding my spare flasher to prevent Hyper flash with LED's. So now I can finally install the LED's that have been bouncing around in my glove box for several months. This mod might be useful to first gen pickup owners as well; I think they use the same flasher. open up the housing and unsolder the single 3.3Uf capacitor. Replace it with 2.7Uf and 4.7Uf capacitor in parallel. Be sure to keep the negative pole on the same side as the one removed.

9
hey i cant thank you enough buddy....... also could you throw me a couple measurements off of your front mount i seen some pics and it looks great. why doesnt anyone use the vw factory motor mount block ...... the aluminium one with the 2 bolts?

did you wire everything yourself? i found someone to make me a harness but i have to mail him both harnesses and itll be almost 1500$ to make a stand alone system with the malone tune so i was just wondering what your thoughts are on that?
10
Transmission/Clutch / Re: More W-56 Issues, rebuild or get rebuilt
« Last post by jbramble24 on Today at 06:11:15 AM »
Thanks for the tips. I am not positive but it seems like it could be the front end but it feels like a high speed vibration like the rear driveshaft.

I have jacked up the front end and could not detect any movement in the ball joints or wheels. I had an alignment done and asked them to also make sure the ball joints were good. The bearings new koyo.

The steering wheel does not vibrate at any speed. I do have an OME stabilizer.

I did have a warped rotor that you could feel in the pedal. I have new brembo rotors on now. I did not replace the pads at the same time. Perhaps I should but they didn't appear to worn unevenly.

I have slipped into neutral at 65 and the rpm dropped to ~1k and the vibration was the same until the speed dropped. It is also the same in any gear, 4th or 5th at 60 vibrate the same.

It does feel like it gets slightly worse for a second when I back off the throttle. It sure does seem like the rear driveshaft but it is brand new.

I don't think it makes any difference with turning the wheel slightly.  I can drive down any road with curves at 65 and notice no change except with speed.

I'm going to go put the front driveshaft back in and take the rear out and see what the difference is. The only things that have not been gone through are the transfer case, front driveshaft, front differential, front axle shaft, front suspension. I do have new Bilstein shocks all the way around. I can't see any noticeable movement in the control arm bushings.

Thanks again for the help!
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10